little help please.

harris hawk said:
"N" toxicity preents ti's self with dark green color and plant leaves look like "claws" Yourplants if anything show the start of nutrient toxicity, flush for one week and adjust nutrients
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Older one. Or are you looking at young. The young were watered heavily and have since perked up. I'm worried bout old one. Forgive me but I just don't see overfert. Mabey overwatering buf the mix is very airy. The rootmass is ok for her size and age. It could fill a 2 gallon pot all by its self and is 23" long and fairly branched. Observation taken at time of transplant when I washed her old media from root ball. I would think her roots are big enough to handle ffof cut in half or any reasonable amount of emulsion with AACT. Her ph is always low like 6.0 when watered with 7.0.
 
what do you guys think I should do flusher real well with 6.5 dechlorinated tap water. Or just let her sit and see what she does over the course of a week. or flusher with 0 ppm RoDi water pH stabilized 6.5.
 
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 if you take a seat and read through this tread, you will get a good understanding of how the ph affects the plant and soil. ime ...chem fert=low ph.... organics=high ph Thats just what ive come to find out over the years. Low ph 6 6.2 will yellow your whole plant, with yellow/brown dead spots on the lower leaves and they will appear on the top leaves if it continues. low ph will claw and high ph will claw. its so hard to tell after a couple days because lock out keeps going on and your soil is toxic so the plants show all kinda of signs so its really hard to diagnose.

what are you using to test your ph? please dont say a digi meter....
 
sativa indica pits said:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 if you take a seat and read through this tread, you will get a good understanding of how the ph affects the plant and soil. ime ...chem fert=low ph.... organics=high ph Thats just what ive come to find out over the years. Low ph 6 6.2 will yellow your whole plant, with yellow/brown dead spots on the lower leaves and they will appear on the top leaves if it continues. low ph will claw and high ph will claw. its so hard to tell after a couple days because lock out keeps going on and your soil is toxic so the plants show all kinda of signs so its really hard to diagnose.

what are you using to test your ph? please dont say a digi meter....
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Lol yes. But I also have chem reagent and litmus paper i can use. I could just flush out almost everything and feed advanced nutrients ph perfect. Or flush with 1/2 strebgth and fjnish when values are equal. Or transplant into light warrior with vermi compost and feed chem sensi grow and connesoiur. Shit or even straight perlite hempy. Your opinions?
 
hold on... i just told this to some one else....gota find it

its only going to cause more problems. 99.9% of those digtal ph testers are junk. My buddy had a $500 unit, ph ,ec, ppm all that right?? wrong, he called me up to come check his plants cant figure out whats going on with them, i figured it was ph cause of what he was describing to me so I brought my $6 ph test kit. I testd the water he was using it was 7.8, he tested the same water..6.3.... he tests the calb. liquid...7 i test the liquid 7.... we did this 4 or 5 times, went and bought batteries, brought the meter back to the store and showed the grow dude how it was not working, got a brand new tester, same fukn thing.... I wont trust those things cause of that... ill stick with my 6 dollar kit, it works every time no matter what.
 
Not your ph. Are you a former hydro grower? 1800 ppm is very high for a dirt grow. Less is often more and 400-600 ppm for dirt is going to keep your plants healthy and stop all this yo-yoing you are doing. They also look over watered.
 
so avanced nute ph perfect you know its perfect for hydro , Its has a ph of like 5.6 or whatever the fuk. I always stuck with an, the best fert ive found!! but that ph perfect bullshit fukd me up. i was lazy and didnt test the fert mix. well all my plants started wacking out, i tested the ph and it was way to low to be perfect, that kinda pissed me off.
 
sativa indica pits said:
hold on... i just told this to some one else....gota find it

its only going to cause more problems. 99.9% of those digtal ph testers are junk. My buddy had a $500 unit, ph ,ec, ppm all that right?? wrong, he called me up to come check his plants cant figure out whats going on with them, i figured it was ph cause of what he was describing to me so I brought my $6 ph test kit. I testd the water he was using it was 7.8, he tested the same water..6.3.... he tests the calb. liquid...7 i test the liquid 7.... we did this 4 or 5 times, went and bought batteries, brought the meter back to the store and showed the grow dude how it was not working, got a brand new tester, same fukn thing.... I wont trust those things cause of that... ill stick with my 6 dollar kit, it works every time no matter what.
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That's a good idea. I'm never thought to use paper or reagent. I always trusted my 6 in 1 ATC. Mabey I should do a chem reagent macro nutrient test and find out individual values.
 
how can you say its not your ph? he told us its be going on for a couple weeks. ph problems that are not corrected within 48 hrs lead to like 10 other nutes lockn out. there is no way to diagnose after two weeks of a messed up ph. ppm, I have never tested my ppm in 17 years, I dont think it makes much difference. plants will show either over fert, under fert, low ph or high ph. over watering is a problem too.

keep it simple, always worked for me, once you add all these factors and variables its hard to tell what is going on and you dont where to start to fix the problem.
 
i never trust those things cause the best one we could buy... didnt work... it was wrong and so was the brand new one out of the package. we were so pissed when we figured that out. the whole time it was reading the ph was great... haaa nope. the ph was fuked. way too high and the digi meter was saying it was perfect.
 
sativa indica pits said:
how can you say its not your ph?
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Because growing hydro and growing in dirt are very different. Dirt grows have a much wider acceptable ph range than hydro. The ph ranges he described would not be a problem in dirt grows.

Regarding your ppm, it is definitely a big issue. I suffered years of problems from trying to push my plants too hard, especially while making the transition from hydro back to dirt. I would hazard to guess that the mix instructions on most fertilizers are about 3 times to high for MJ. Most of my issues went away when I started using a good EC meter and kept the ppm below 600 in dirt. And my weed smoked much better, no harshness.

I agree that keeping it simple is better. I now mix up a good organic soil and do organic teas every two weeks and I don't have any nutrient issues to worry about or ph to check or EC levels to monitor.
 
I think a ph reading with paper and chem first. Do some tests on n.p.k and flush out everything. Then go with ferts. Or ultimately have to transplant to 50/50 light warrior/vermicompost. Organic fertz 10-4-10 (2part) powder
 
Sorry, just reread your intro and missed that you were doing compost teas, assumed you were doing a commercial fertilizer. Are you really only making your teas with mollases and fish emulsion? Are you inoculating with some composted steer manure or something with living bacteria? Can you share your full tea recipe? If not something wrong with your tea recipe then I can only add that your humidity seems a little high and may be a result of too much watering.
 
sativa indica pits said:
i never trust those things cause the best one we could buy... didnt work... it was wrong and so was the brand new one out of the package. we were so pissed when we figured that out. the whole time it was reading the ph was great... haaa nope. the ph was fuked. way too high and the digi meter was saying it was perfect.
Click to expand...

Fair point, yes, if ph meter is not calibrated and real results are different than reported, then ph could be a big issue. Very hard to change dirt ph quickly so hopefully this is not the case!

If you can establish some myco fungi on your roots you can expand you ph range a fair amount.
 
Careful what you read on here. Some people are so eager to help that they will type out the first supposed answer they come across. Always try the simplest changes first. You don't want to jump the gun and risk making the problem worse. They say a pic is worth a thousand words but we often forget that the guy taking the pic is worth a million. A tip for your digital meter, if the pH is going up and down right in front of you jumping from 9.0 to 7.0 to 6.0 or just sitting at 7.0 then you most likely have a faulty unit or it is dirty. (huh, huh, "unit" "dirty") However if it is consistently giving you a solid reading even between 1 or two decimal points chances are good it is not faulty. I spoke with the gentleman at the nursery and he explained to me that there are some factors you need to take into consideration. Soil moisture. These things do not work in dry soil. Cleanliness, keep the rod clean or it will begin to oxidize, even in as few as a couple of seconds. The oxidized particles will obv affect your reading. Third, this is a big one, it works much more effectively if you push it into the soil at least half way and THEN turn it on. So many people are turning their units on before putting it in the soil and this might work for the high end models however for the simple 13-20$ this isn't always the case. You should see it start moving up or down in 45 sec or less. Lightly scuff the rod with some super super fine sandpaper. Units can sit on the shelf for a while, minute amounts of humidity can begin the oxidation process on the surface of the rod, wipe it clean and you'll notice a greyish residue this is these are indicative of oxidation. FFOF is often perfectly suited for cannabis right out of the bag unless the bag has been sitting for a long time. Your babies look great, minimal chlorosis and nearly zero necrosis. I like your grow room set up as well. What are those container made of? This may very well be irrelevant but what is your SOIL TEMP? Also, that link that sativa gave you is a good read, it's been around awhile and is full of experience from years of growers visiting it. You have time to figure this out. IMO: water with only water 2-3 times this should be enough to notice a difference in their condition. If you haven't already, you can check this very, very common resource on cannabis diagnostics here.:peace: http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54233
 
I flushed the soil with dechlorinated tap @ 6.5/ 180ppm/70f
1st. Flush -4 cups. Ec1.958/ppm 1076
2nd Flush -4 cups Ec 1.398/ ppm775
3rd Flush -4 cups. Ec 1.126/ ppm 620 Final reading ph-7.0/ ec 1.126/ ppm 620
These PH readings were taken with paper litmus strips and the ppm/ec with a hanna dist atc pen .5 conversion.

Then I took (4) 6ml samples to be chem tested. My results are
N/ surplus
P/ surplus
K/ sufficient
PH/ 7.5

That's all I can do for now.
 
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