oneLEETtoker
Active Member
i don't no for sure when to flower...some tips would be nice.. thanks 
little over 2 months ...want to no if they look okey
- Thread starter oneLEETtoker
- Start date
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
42=200w and 2 21=60w...guna throw a few more of the 42=200 on them
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
ya i no i could decide but i just dont no when a good time is but ya the room thing will work i guess il just decide when i think there big nuff
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
u think another month and a half or 2 months would be ok before flowering?..oops sry i shoulda just edited instead of spamming posts
CLOSETGROWTH
Well-Known Member
Some of the healthiest vegged plants Ive seen in a while. Glowing with health!i don't no for sure when to flower...some tips would be nice.. thanks
View attachment 894738View attachment 894739View attachment 894740
But, Might wanna be a little easy on the nitrogen..
You can veg em as long as you like.. But remember they will double in size after you initiate 12/12.
Im throwing some +rep your way.. Very nice work
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
thanks that's great to hear...hmm what do u think they would put out if i started flower in like 2 months
that's great to hear...hmm what do u think they would put out if i started flower in like 2 monthsKraziWyteBoy
Member
Plants are lookin' good, definitely increase the light when you decide to flower. Look around and find a cheap 150w HPS, you can find 'em from $50-$100, brand new. You'll be glad you did.
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
idk man alll the hps i find u have to wire it to a power supply type thing i cant remember what u call it ...late night lawl... but yaa i no hps are good but i am going to just stick to the flourescents..they seem to be doing ok just add a few more 200 watt bulbs.. they seem prty good ...daylight 6500k 200watt
Brick Top
New Member
When to flower will depend on your setup/system of growing.
First you have to figure the actual usable amount of growing height you have to work with. I will make up numbers for easy math but it will give you the idea.
If you have an 8’ceiling most people think they have all the room in the world to grow with and can grow Christmas trees if they want. Then they give it a go and find out they have less growing height than they thought.
Start with the 8’ and then measure from the floor to the lowest level of your growing medium. Lets say you are using pots that when filled with soil to the proper level makes that level one foot off the floor. Subtract that 1’ from your overall 8’ and that leaves you 7’.
Next measure the distance from your ceiling to the bottom of your light when your light is raised as high as it can possibly be raised. Let’s just say that figure turns out to be 18 inches. Subtract 18 inches from 7’ and you now have 5 1/2’ feet of overall growing height left to work with.
Now subtract the minimum amount of space you need to maintain from the bottom of your light(s) to the tops of your plants. Lets say that is an even foot in this example. Subtract one foot from 5 ½’ feet and the result is your total overall amount of growing height has shrunk from 8’ to 4 ½’ … so much for Christmas trees.
Then you have to consider your lighting, as in is it adequate to supply enough light to use the entire 4 ½’ of growing height or not.
If you have adequate lighting then consider what strain or strains you will be growing and how much they increase in size during flower. Always assume the breeder information to be somewhat less than accurate and expect at least a bit more increase in size during flower than predicted, a bit more than just a bit more the more sativa predominant a cross is and even more so if a pure sativa. I have grown predominantly sativa strains that claimed the usual claim of two to three times increase in growth during flower and ended up with as much as slightly more than a 6-fold increase in growth in height. That took a bit of thought to deal with that situation.
Once you know what height you actually have to work with and an idea of what to expect growth-wise during flower you just do the math. “X’ amount of increase in growth to a plant of ‘Y’ height when put into flower gives you an idea of what to expect. If you research well you are not all that likely to often times make errors that cause sphincter pain.
In the ideal setup/system you would be able to veg your plants until while still in a vegging light cycle they show sexual preflowers. That is the plant telling you it is ready, willing and able to instantly begin to do its business, that it is fully mature to handle it to the plants maximum potential, of course baring any unexpected FUBAR’s, so you will see quicker changes, as in a quicker formation of buds/flowers, and a more impressive development of buds/flowers.
When you switch a plant from a veging light cycle to a flowering light cycle it can take as much as two weeks for the plant’s flowering hormones to fully kick into action and after that you will begin to see changes/results. If a plant is vegged until sexual preflowers appear it is ready right then and there and you do not experience as long of a wait to see the results of the time cycle alteration.
That is the very best time to switch from a vegging light cycle to a flowering light cycle, when your plants tell you they are ready for sexual encounters. Unfortunately for various reasons many people are unable to veg their plant for that length of time, or in some cases are capable of doing it setup/system-wise but lack the patience needed to allow for the additional overall time being used, even though it is worth it in the end when it comes to yields.
When it comes down to it a plant can begin its life in a 12/12 flowering cycle and grow and produce. For a pure or almost pure sativa that can almost be a must if grown indoors because of the height they will otherwise grow to if other steps to keep their height down are not taken, like following Uncle Ben’s topping technique and or doing a bit of trying down or growing to some shape/form/trellis sort of setup or of course going SCROG.
Regardless of stain type a flowering light cycle can be begun at any time in the plant’s life. It is just a matter of being able to figure out when to flower what different strain types using your individual setup/system at the point in time where it will maximize your yield while still remaining within the confines of your setup/systems capabilities or limitations.
Different setups/systems will have different prime times to begin flower and they can range widely in timeframe as in anything from beginning a plant’s life in a flowering light cycle to vegging until plants develop sexual preflowers. Unless you have some setup/system that was purchased and others have the exact same setup/system and they grow the same strains from the same breeder as you no on can really accurately tell you when is the prime time to switch from veg to flower. Only someone with a setup/system that is exactly the same in every way and who grows the exact same genetics, and that of course includes breeder and not just strain name, can tell you what you can really expect and what will work best in your setup/system, that is assuming they have been running theirs long enough to have figured it out by then. Otherwise their advice is as questionable as anyone else’s.
You need to learn figure out precisely what you have to work with, you need to know your systems strengths and weaknesses, or limitations might be more accurate, and you need to research the strains you will be growing or if continually or often times growing the same strain or strains get to know what they do in your system and then figure out what maximizes your results and then duplicate those efforts as closely as possible each time you grow a strain you are familiar with.
Asking a question as you did will most times result in many varied answers but in almost every case the advice will be accurate, it accurate at all, only or almost completely only for the setup/system the person advising uses and while it may be perfect advice IF you run the exact same setup/system, in ever way right down to conditions of temp and humidity, if not the advice should not be seen as anything more than a suggestion you might want to try to see if it works for you or not.
In other words to maximize your setup/system you need to learn what to do when and how and when growing what all on your own.
To do it and do it totally right is not something someone else can teach you unless you have the ultimate setup/system without any limitations of any kind, and the person advising you of course has the same and the needed skills and experience to have learned how to squeeze every last gram out of the strain or strains you are growing in an identical setup/system under identical growing conditions.
The odds of running across someone with a setup/system that is identical to yours in every way and who also grows or has grown and remembers or kept notes about the exact same strain from the exact same breeder as you are growing so they can give you very accurate advice is about the same as someone being struck by lightning on the same day they win a $400 million lottery and Keira Knightley, the Olsen twins and Paris Hilton all beg you to marry them and all of you live together and share one massive bed and they all insist on daily and nightly group romps occurring, sometimes including several of their hottest female friends joining in.
In other words …. it ain’t a-gunna happin so don’t go fixin ta' commence ta’ start holdin’ yer breath a-waiting fer a reply that will be exactly what you want and or need to know.
First you have to figure the actual usable amount of growing height you have to work with. I will make up numbers for easy math but it will give you the idea.
If you have an 8’ceiling most people think they have all the room in the world to grow with and can grow Christmas trees if they want. Then they give it a go and find out they have less growing height than they thought.
Start with the 8’ and then measure from the floor to the lowest level of your growing medium. Lets say you are using pots that when filled with soil to the proper level makes that level one foot off the floor. Subtract that 1’ from your overall 8’ and that leaves you 7’.
Next measure the distance from your ceiling to the bottom of your light when your light is raised as high as it can possibly be raised. Let’s just say that figure turns out to be 18 inches. Subtract 18 inches from 7’ and you now have 5 1/2’ feet of overall growing height left to work with.
Now subtract the minimum amount of space you need to maintain from the bottom of your light(s) to the tops of your plants. Lets say that is an even foot in this example. Subtract one foot from 5 ½’ feet and the result is your total overall amount of growing height has shrunk from 8’ to 4 ½’ … so much for Christmas trees.
Then you have to consider your lighting, as in is it adequate to supply enough light to use the entire 4 ½’ of growing height or not.
If you have adequate lighting then consider what strain or strains you will be growing and how much they increase in size during flower. Always assume the breeder information to be somewhat less than accurate and expect at least a bit more increase in size during flower than predicted, a bit more than just a bit more the more sativa predominant a cross is and even more so if a pure sativa. I have grown predominantly sativa strains that claimed the usual claim of two to three times increase in growth during flower and ended up with as much as slightly more than a 6-fold increase in growth in height. That took a bit of thought to deal with that situation.
Once you know what height you actually have to work with and an idea of what to expect growth-wise during flower you just do the math. “X’ amount of increase in growth to a plant of ‘Y’ height when put into flower gives you an idea of what to expect. If you research well you are not all that likely to often times make errors that cause sphincter pain.
In the ideal setup/system you would be able to veg your plants until while still in a vegging light cycle they show sexual preflowers. That is the plant telling you it is ready, willing and able to instantly begin to do its business, that it is fully mature to handle it to the plants maximum potential, of course baring any unexpected FUBAR’s, so you will see quicker changes, as in a quicker formation of buds/flowers, and a more impressive development of buds/flowers.
When you switch a plant from a veging light cycle to a flowering light cycle it can take as much as two weeks for the plant’s flowering hormones to fully kick into action and after that you will begin to see changes/results. If a plant is vegged until sexual preflowers appear it is ready right then and there and you do not experience as long of a wait to see the results of the time cycle alteration.
That is the very best time to switch from a vegging light cycle to a flowering light cycle, when your plants tell you they are ready for sexual encounters. Unfortunately for various reasons many people are unable to veg their plant for that length of time, or in some cases are capable of doing it setup/system-wise but lack the patience needed to allow for the additional overall time being used, even though it is worth it in the end when it comes to yields.
When it comes down to it a plant can begin its life in a 12/12 flowering cycle and grow and produce. For a pure or almost pure sativa that can almost be a must if grown indoors because of the height they will otherwise grow to if other steps to keep their height down are not taken, like following Uncle Ben’s topping technique and or doing a bit of trying down or growing to some shape/form/trellis sort of setup or of course going SCROG.
Regardless of stain type a flowering light cycle can be begun at any time in the plant’s life. It is just a matter of being able to figure out when to flower what different strain types using your individual setup/system at the point in time where it will maximize your yield while still remaining within the confines of your setup/systems capabilities or limitations.
Different setups/systems will have different prime times to begin flower and they can range widely in timeframe as in anything from beginning a plant’s life in a flowering light cycle to vegging until plants develop sexual preflowers. Unless you have some setup/system that was purchased and others have the exact same setup/system and they grow the same strains from the same breeder as you no on can really accurately tell you when is the prime time to switch from veg to flower. Only someone with a setup/system that is exactly the same in every way and who grows the exact same genetics, and that of course includes breeder and not just strain name, can tell you what you can really expect and what will work best in your setup/system, that is assuming they have been running theirs long enough to have figured it out by then. Otherwise their advice is as questionable as anyone else’s.
You need to learn figure out precisely what you have to work with, you need to know your systems strengths and weaknesses, or limitations might be more accurate, and you need to research the strains you will be growing or if continually or often times growing the same strain or strains get to know what they do in your system and then figure out what maximizes your results and then duplicate those efforts as closely as possible each time you grow a strain you are familiar with.
Asking a question as you did will most times result in many varied answers but in almost every case the advice will be accurate, it accurate at all, only or almost completely only for the setup/system the person advising uses and while it may be perfect advice IF you run the exact same setup/system, in ever way right down to conditions of temp and humidity, if not the advice should not be seen as anything more than a suggestion you might want to try to see if it works for you or not.
In other words to maximize your setup/system you need to learn what to do when and how and when growing what all on your own.
To do it and do it totally right is not something someone else can teach you unless you have the ultimate setup/system without any limitations of any kind, and the person advising you of course has the same and the needed skills and experience to have learned how to squeeze every last gram out of the strain or strains you are growing in an identical setup/system under identical growing conditions.
The odds of running across someone with a setup/system that is identical to yours in every way and who also grows or has grown and remembers or kept notes about the exact same strain from the exact same breeder as you are growing so they can give you very accurate advice is about the same as someone being struck by lightning on the same day they win a $400 million lottery and Keira Knightley, the Olsen twins and Paris Hilton all beg you to marry them and all of you live together and share one massive bed and they all insist on daily and nightly group romps occurring, sometimes including several of their hottest female friends joining in.
In other words …. it ain’t a-gunna happin so don’t go fixin ta' commence ta’ start holdin’ yer breath a-waiting fer a reply that will be exactly what you want and or need to know.
Brick Top
New Member
A 150-watt HID light is a very weak light source and while $50.00 is not much to spend, even on something inadequate, if he/she gets to around or about the $100.00 range a $150-watt HID HPS would become a horrible value.
Someone can purchase a new, not the highest tech but still brand new and from a reputable business a 400-watt HID light that will come with an HPS bulb and a MH conversion bulb, higher grade bulbs of each from what is standard are available for an additional price, for $164.95. The reflective hood is not the highest grade dimpled aluminum but it is not a shoddy reflective hood either. It is 15.5" long x 12.5" wide x 6" deep and polished aluminum. The ballast is magnetic instead of digital but for the price and the capabilities it gives it is a heck of a better value than a weak 150-watt HID light that costs around the $100.00 range. The additional expense would be way more than worth it.
If the budget will allow there is a range of different reflective hoods and one of the highest of quality could be ordered with the light system if the person is willing and able to pay the difference.
$119.95 will purchase the same basic lighting system minus the MH conversion bulb but if someone can find one, as in a MH conversion bulb, at a better price than offered by the light system business the same the same light setup as the first can be had for less.
While not as good of a value a system much like the first one mentioned above, but in 250-watt HID and with a slightly larger reflective hood but otherwise the same can be purchased for $167.95. That makes the 400-watt HID a better value by far unless it would cause heat issues that for whatever reason could not be dealt with.
The same basic 250-watt HID light but without the MH conversion bulbs sells for $117.95, again making the same basic 400-watt system a better value but again if a 400-watt would cause issues that could not be overcome the $117.95 could have a MH conversion bulb added, again if able to be found elsewhere at a lower price than when included with the upgraded system, and again you have more wattage for not much difference in price than the upper ranges of what you considered to be an acceptable value for a 150-watt HID light and likely have a superior light.
If someone wanted a very good value, and there were no reasons why they could not purchase one, you can purchase a 400-watt digital ballast that is switchable so an actual MH bulb could be used instead of a conversion bulb, and of course also burn a HPS bulb, they offer one for $229.95, plus of course any upgrades of reflective hoods or higher grade or extra bulbs etc. The basic system is more than sufficient as it is. Changes would only need to be made for reasons of size/shape or reflective hood for the size and shape of the area it would be used in, if additional ventilation were to be needed or if someone just wanted more and or better. The basic system comes with a larger higher grade reflective hood that is one of the optional upgrade hoods for the other systems. In the other light systems it is not an upgrade with a major cost attached, only $35.00, but that brings the price difference between the magnetic ballast/MH conversion bulb model with the upgraded reflective hood to only $65.00. To have a digital ballast that is switchable and will burn a true MH bulb rather than a MH conversion bulb is worth the difference in my opinion.
Of course there might be limiting factors that would effect a decision on what to purchase. It might be total cost and it might be heat issues and it might be any number of different things, but there are far better options and far better values than a 150-watt HID HPS light if it will cost anywhere near $100.00.
If for some reason someone had to stick with a low wattage HID light, like a 150-watt model, a brand new 150-watt light with a magnetic ballast can be purchased brand new for $69.75 and for the same additional $35.00 you can have the upgraded hood that comes standard on the 400-watt digital ballast model. Other higher quality/higher priced/different size & shape reflective hoods can also be picked from depending on what would work best and fit ones budget, just as is the case with all the other light systems I mentioned.
Before you, or anyone purchases anything check out http://www.htgsupply.com/growlightsubcategories.asp?categoryID=1 You might be surprised how much you can purchase for your money, and have something better ........ and in the end not pay more or at least not pay much more than the price range mentioned for a 150-watt HID HPS light.
AlterdImage777
Member
Ya, I would start flowering em now if I were you...otherwise you are gonna end up with a plant that is too big, unless you plan on putting it outside...
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
that was alot to read lol thank you tho i will keep the pics updated
i will keep the pics updated
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
hmm if i flowered now ....how much would it yield thoo ..i was thinkin pry a month ? maby lol
KraziWyteBoy
Member
You're right, a 400 would be a waaaayyy better value. I've come to learn in this hobby though, most people aren't willing to spend money, period. I figured a $50 price tag may convince him to go HID, because even that crappy little 150 is gonna out perform the CFL's by leaps and bounds.
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
nah they were misted with water ....lol leaf wax
oneLEETtoker
Active Member
how much bud would there be total in the end u think if i flowered now i was thinkin wait about a month until flower? By the way thanks for all the tips and info everyone
Bagz
Active Member
I would not worry about how much you want to harvest so much but focus more on how much space you have to play with. Your plants will at least double in height when you flick to 12 12 and I have had plants stretch and grow over three times there size. I am playing height restriction games with my grow at the moment and your max height should be a more important consideration than your yield at this stage. The guys trying to encourage a HPS set up are right. I flowered using only fluros on my last grow and the results were less than average.
I am now using a 150W Hps in my stealth setup and it is magic. Well worth it. Don't be afraid of HPS and ballasts and all that, ti is a very easy setup. I was put off by it all and decided to stick with fluros last time. Make the step up to HPS man, you wont regret it.
Hope you dont mind me throwing afew pics up of my current set up. It might help you see what I mean about height restrictions. I LST train my plants too. Something you could look into. It's easy and effective. I will definitely be watching this grow to the end. Check out my journal.
I am now using a 150W Hps in my stealth setup and it is magic. Well worth it. Don't be afraid of HPS and ballasts and all that, ti is a very easy setup. I was put off by it all and decided to stick with fluros last time. Make the step up to HPS man, you wont regret it.
Hope you dont mind me throwing afew pics up of my current set up. It might help you see what I mean about height restrictions. I LST train my plants too. Something you could look into. It's easy and effective. I will definitely be watching this grow to the end. Check out my journal.
