I guess they may be but I don't know. I also don't have a computer hooked up to the net so I don't get to play with the fancy spreadsheets and calculators to find out myself.I think most cobs will beat HPS when just run at their nominal spec'd current, but the lower the better in my book
Other advantage with cobs is even light spread, and no need to be 3ft above plants etc...I guess they may be but I don't know. I also don't have a computer hooked up to the net so I don't get to play with the fancy spreadsheets and calculators to find out myself.
A hortilux bulb is ~145lm/w, I'm running 1212s a 25w which from what I have read is about 160lm/w but go down in efficiency with more watts fairly quickly from what I've seen in the posted charts.
I just want to make sure I'm beating that hortilux because if you are not doing that then cobs lose a lot of their advantages IMHO.
Hey @CobKits ....
Thoughtz on 4 of these run on a HLG-320H-C1400 Driver over a 2.8 (80cm) x 2.8...about 300w yeah...??
Thankz...
its all about the spectrum. good blurples are equal to hps on actual usable par but look like crap on lumens.I guess they may be but I don't know. I also don't have a computer hooked up to the net so I don't get to play with the fancy spreadsheets and calculators to find out myself.
A hortilux bulb is ~145lm/w, I'm running 1212s a 25w which from what I have read is about 160lm/w but go down in efficiency with more watts fairly quickly from what I've seen in the posted charts.
I just want to make sure I'm beating that hortilux because if you are not doing that then cobs lose a lot of their advantages IMHO.
You two are selling ice to an Eskimo, lol, an educated guess would have been good enough.its all about the spectrum. good blurples are equal to hps on actual usable par but look like crap on lumens.
hps has a ton of yellow which is good but not as good as strong red and blue like a warm white phosphor cob
oh really..? Lovely! How was your yield? Scrog? Number of plantz..? Thanksyou bet. i did the same setup with 4 1825s in a 3x3 and it rocked. the cxm22s actually run a slightly higher voltage and fill out the driver better. a CXM22 rig vs that 1825 rig would put out about the same PAR (ever so slightly higher actually) and use a scant 8W more (73W per cob vs 71). not a bad deal to save $100 on the 4 chips and have better reflector options
cxm22 uses the same ideal 2204ct and same bjb holders as clu048 - both are solderless. the only light engines i solder on are clu058Any holders support the cxm22 yet without soldering anything? Looks like your light engine requires some soldering
that was 9 in a 3x3 from day 0-14 which then got moved to fill out the 1/2 a 5x9 w 9 cobs that i showed youoh really..? Lovely! How was your yield? Scrog? Number of plantz..? Thanks
So the reflectors on your site will fit on the cxm22 aswell..?cxm22 uses the same ideal 2204ct and same bjb holders as clu048 - both are solderless. the only light engines i solder on are clu058
Howdy cobkkits,
Do u think the 1825s running at 50 watts will give higher efficiency than the cxm22s(more usable photons than heat per watt)?
.
What wattage were they calculated at?thats the identical number that the vero excel simulator returns for the 85C hot-binning test conditions listed on the digikey spec
View attachment 3847759
at same wattage and case temp, according to the calculators
1825= 144 lm/W
3618 = 145 lm/W
cxm 22= 120 lm/W
cxm 32= 145 lm/W
vero B 50V= 140 lm/W
vero D 36V=130 lm/W
cxb3590 = ~ 105 lm/W