Magnesium deficiency? other nute burn? HELP!! Royal Dwarf

hey guys my Royal Dwarf is probably 2 weeks (give or take a few days) from harvest time but its starting to have problems. The top leaves are starting to get brown spots, and the main power leaves on top are turning yellow. Ive looked around and i think its magnesium deficiency but im not sure. Leaves are crispy to the touch and are curling UP. Im about to flush them in a bit, i ran a bit of water through it to see the runoff PH and its between 6.5 and 7. any help? (pictures attached)


EDIT:also i might as well and ask another question, i also have a super skunk plant in flowering, and about the upper half of the plant seems to be a lighter green (not yellow at all just lighter) than the bottom half. Could this be because the plant is somewhat tall and the upper part gets more light?? or could this be caused by N deficiency also? (edit within an edit) after going through a flush and taking a GOOD look through the plants i found two of the biggest fan leaves at the bottom dying and with some brown spots, but theyre not crispy at all very moist and soft, but dying and spotty. i attached pictures of this as well, its the pictures with the dettached leaves not on the plant.

2nd EDIT:might as well ask another question here, i also have a biddy early, whose bigger fan leaves stems have turned red, not borwn, not purple, RED. Now idk if this is a strain issue or it turned colors because the biddy is suppose to turn purple later but i know it could be the cause of stress or other issues. any input?

LIGHT: 600w HPS
SOIL: FFOF
NUTES: Fox Farm Grow Big (veg) GH- Flora Bloom (for flower) and molasses. Yes im using soil but using hydro nutes because i read that it can be used at slightly lower dosages.

thanks in advance for any input, link to my grow journal with all my plants is in my sig.

What soil are you using? Are you adding nutrient or fertilizer? Without a picture, what you're describing sounds like serious nute burn.
I would not add N to your flowering Skunk. Let it use the nitrogen it has. Since your lower fans are dark green, there's plenty.
Plants grown in bright light tend to be lighter green ... if you're talking about a high-wattage HID lamp. cn

cannabineer said:

What soil are you using? Are you adding nutrient or fertilizer? Without a picture, what you're describing sounds like serious nute burn.
I would not add N to your flowering Skunk. Let it use the nitrogen it has. Since your lower fans are dark green, there's plenty.
Plants grown in bright light tend to be lighter green ... if you're talking about a high-wattage HID lamp. cn

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sorry i added the pictures now, i forgot to attach them when i first posted. Theyre all in FFOF

on the skunk its under a 600w HPS

Mg def. I take it your growing in soil with that ph flush them and carry on, as for the skunk unless its partial leafs that are lighter then don't worry

I spent some time in your grow journal just now. i see you've added lots of info. I still say it looks like nute burn ... some phenos are just picky. FFOF should really see you through without supplementation, except maybe (not necessarily, but maybe) PK flower boosters late. It's considered pretty toasty on its own ... I'd try flushing, then just watering the affected plant. Free advice ... and just about worth the price. cn

Thanks a lot guys, i really appreciate it. I just flushed all my plants, i was starting to see some tip burn on the bigger ones (very slight).

still looking for help on the biddy early

sorry for all the edits, i was just in a hurry to post and left a lot of info out, but should be good now.

Whats your temps? Looks to me like cold shock on the leaf are the stems red on your buddy?

fragle said:

Whats your temps? Looks to me like cold shock on the leaf are the stems red on your buddy?

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temps are always 68-74, but last week we had cold front and i didnt turn on my heater during "night time" and temps inside my room were probably in the mid/low 50s. So plants probably spent 2 nights in some chilly temps.

All my leaves are looking like picture 5. I flushed, the Ph was around 6.5-7. Hasn't shown any sign of improvement, in fact the remaining healthy leaves are still slowly turning. Starts at the tips, curls them up... My lower leaves are yellow, and I don't have many brown spots (a couple per plant at most) so it may be different from what you've shown here. I've asked a lot of people at the club and at the hydro shop and everyone has a different guess. I have also had a couple of chilly nights (60F at the lowest) could this cause such a major issue? (I've got HeadBand, don't know too much about the strains peeves).

WeedGrows said:

All my leaves are looking like picture 5. I flushed, the Ph was around 6.5-7. Hasn't shown any sign of improvement, in fact the remaining healthy leaves are still slowly turning. Starts at the tips, curls them up... My lower leaves are yellow, and I don't have many brown spots (a couple per plant at most) so it may be different from what you've shown here. I've asked a lot of people at the club and at the hydro shop and everyone has a different guess. I have also had a couple of chilly nights (60F at the lowest) could this cause such a major issue? (I've got HeadBand, don't know too much about the strains peeves).

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After my flush yesterday it seems to have completely stopped progressing damage. Any damage caused before has remained the same. Only my upper leaves turned yellow. the lower leaves stayed DARK green only received a few brown spots. Luckily my plant only has a little time to go.

You mention yours started at the tips, mine didnt. my brown spots started to appear sporadically. The damage at the tips that my plants DO have i imagine is N burn from early on, but that has also stopped after the flush. Huge difference on all plants after the flush.

Obviously im also a newb but i doubt a 60 degree temp would cause damage to the leaves like that. Good luck!

Looks to me like you're both having some sort of temperature problems, When the leaves curl up (cupping) as if they're folding themselves, that is a result of high temperatures and they dark coloring on the leaves and spotting looks like calcium deficiency as well as the fluctuation from very cold to very warm. Going from two extreme temps back and forth will shock the plants ability to photosynthesis and continue absorbing the nutrients they need. And if you kept feeding nutrients to your plants then that will create salt build up and nutrients get locked out. look up Fish Emlsion for your flush.

Mr.Buds said:

Looks to me like you're both having some sort of temperature problems, When the leaves curl up (cupping) as if they're folding themselves, that is a result of high temperatures and they dark coloring on the leaves and spotting looks like calcium deficiency as well as the fluctuation from very cold to very warm. Going from two extreme temps back and forth will shock the plants ability to photosynthesis and continue absorbing the nutrients they need. And if you kept feeding nutrients to your plants then that will create salt build up and nutrients get locked out. look up Fish Emlsion for your flush.

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on mine its definitely not high temperatures, my temps NEVER go above 74/75. Now temp fluctuation yeah because like mentioned I had heater problems two nights in a row.

I already flushed once, seems to have worked fine.

can you elaborate more on the use of nutes? what can i add to my feedings to prevent salt build up?

it's actually what can you NOT add to prevent salt build up. If your Ph, and PPMs are not at suitable levels for your plants, the roots wont absorb up to their capacity or even at all. The Ph (alkalinity) really affects the ability of how much your roots absorb, if it's too high (above 7.0) or to low (below 5.0) your nutes will be locked out. And then if you continue feeding your plants with these nutes thinking that they are getting used, they're just piling up on top of another, creating more acidic levels. Your PPMs are also very important because it gives your a ratio of how much Electric Conductivity you have in your solutions. Which means how many Total Disolved Solids (nutrients) you have in your solution. PPMs are a trail an error type of deal, all plants are different and all systems are different. But for me I stick around 700-900 PPMs while vegging and up to 1200 PPMs while flowering. PPMs indicates how hard or soft your water is and if you get your PPMs and PH in place then your roots will be able to feed properly. I see it like trying to fit a rectangle in a circle opening, you gotta find the right measurements.

helpful but a bit confusing to take all at once. I keep seeing PPM get thrown around but i havent looked into it, i just feed by container directions. i have a liquid PH tester and my Ph is always between 6.5 and 7.

Ya, it can be a bit confusing at first, even reading about PPMs was confusing for me,but once I got a Tds/ppm meter (which are only around 30$) it all started to make sense. The PPMs are just a ratio of how many TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS (nutrients) are in your solution mix. You could be feeding your plants the recommended strength on the instructions, but all types have different ppm attributes. I would highly suggest getting a ppm meter.

Yeah im definitely getting one, ive been loolking into it.

Looks like the burn on my skunk has continued, more leaves including smaller ones are startin to show this ugly burn. leaves that look like this arent crispy theyre soft and moist.

also the tips that were burnt on the skunk keep getting more burnt.

Im flushing once again.

Get some.fish emulsion and flush with that. It works wonders.

I had a similar issue but i caught it early..I was in FFOF and i ADDED LIME to the mix and BANG NEVER AGAIN...U can mix some with water and apply to the soil add some to the top soil and it will soak in as u water..NOW i add lime when i mix my ffof before potting.