Malaysian Growers Thread

Seeing you guys talk about buying online makes my hands itchy :fire::fire: but for me it's kinda expensive so I'll just stick to growing bagseed.. more fun anyways :peace:
 
R&blaze said:
Hey guys. Just made my own calmag to buffer my coco coir. Found the recipe from another forum. It’s basically just calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate. I’ll let it sit for a couple of hours to let the sediments (gypsum) settle to the bottom and it’s ready to use.
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Is CalMag compulsory for coco growers? What happens if u skip on that lol
 
coconut fibre has high salt content. You have to wash it well and supplement with cal mag. This is called buffering. There are cation exchange sites in coco that normally contains Na and K+. You want to exchange those with cal mag. This why many coco growers experience cal mag deficiency if they dont buffer their coco first.
 
myrceneCB1 said:
coconut fibre has high salt content. You have to wash it well and supplement with cal mag. This is called buffering. There are cation exchange sites in coco that normally contains Na and K+. You want to exchange those with cal mag. This why many coco growers experience cal mag deficiency if they dont buffer their coco first.
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uh oh uh oh do i have to do it I just got a white widow autofem seed and I kinda dont wanna kill it
 
R&blaze said:
I would wait to see if the plant is showing cal mag deficiencies first before using it. I guess I’ll use a low dose of it maybe once during a feed just as a extra boost but I don’t think it’s necessary if you’ve already buffered the coco.
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oh no i havent buffered the coco at all its just a premix i bought from shopee with perlite + coco
 
R&blaze said:
is it just coco and perlite? You could still buffer it
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This is what the place I bought it from says:

• pH 6.3 ( Average +/- 2)
• EC <1000 mS tested at 1: 1.5 Volume Extraction Method.
As for the Coco Mix 10L, the cocopeat has been washed so that the salt content is acceptable to the plants.

is this buffered?
 
R&blaze said:
Hm it says washed not buffered. They could’ve just washed it thoroughly which can reduce the sodium amount however the cation exchange needs to happen. I would still buffer it :)
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Unless the coco is prewashed x2 and prebuffered like some brands do, I would just wash it again and buffer it. Not worth the headache later when your plants show issues.
 
R&blaze said:
Hey guys! I finally buffered the coco and added some perlite, fish meal and worm castings. Was kinda exhausting rinsing the coco to get rid of the tiny dust sized stuff. It retains too much water so you only want the bigger sized chunks but it was damn worth it. Just a tip- I buffered the coco in a bag so it was easier to strain the solution . All you gotta do is lift the bag and set it aside to dry
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Sick I bet your plants gonna thank you and give good yields
 
@myrceneCB1 Bro do you start your seedlings in full light or how? My first seedling is basically dead and I'm scared I light burned it to death... do your seedlings get full intense light from day 1?
 
R&blaze said:
Also I noticed crystals in the coco after buffering. It wasn’t there before the buffer. Do yall think it was the salt drawn out from the coco? Or maybe the magnesium sulphate crystallised? Next round of buffering I’ll use magnesium nitrate and see if those crystals form again.
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Interesting... It could be like you mentioned, the crystallization of MgSo4 but my guess is it's from the coco itself.
 
Wukong said:
@myrceneCB1 Bro do you start your seedlings in full light or how? My first seedling is basically dead and I'm scared I light burned it to death... do your seedlings get full intense light from day 1?
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Don't use full intensity, as seedlings are too young to handle it. Hang your light at the veg distance as recommended by the light manufacturer, then start at 25 percent intensity once the cotyledon is out. After 5-7 days, bring it up to 50 percent. If you notice the seedling to start stretching, you can increase the intensity. Preferably you don't want that. Once you see the first true leaves starts forming, can increase to 75%. Of course this is not a hard and fast rule. But generally this should work.
 
I increased my light intensity to 70 percent yesterday at the distance of 36 inches when the true leaves start forming. They seem to like it. :)
 

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The leaves twisting at the tips and the yellowing at the newer leaves looks like beginning of cal or mag? def.

I started coco for the first time recently and fell flat on my face.

My goal was to not overfeed plants...
I thought because the coco coir was buffered, I didn't need to wash and dose with cal/mag.
I thought because I was using nutes specific for coco coir, I didn't need to supplement with CaliMagic.

idiot

I recently applied foliar spray and the plants responded well! Much better color, perked up drastically!
 
R&blaze said:
Ah I love your setup. I’m thinking of getting a grow tent and putting it in my wardrobe. If it can’t fit I’ll just line the wardrobe walls with mylar. Also would you mind telling me where you get your perlite? Yours are the perfect size and mine are like rocks
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I got from Shopee if I'm not mistaken. Actually I would prefer it to be chunkier. You can just crush it to the size that you prefer dude.
 
R&blaze said:
Could someone help me diagnose my plant. The lower leaves are turning yellow/looks burnt and so are the tiny leaves. Couldn’t be light bleach because the top main leave are perfectly fine and the light is further away. This was happening before I transplanted it into coco.
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Could be nute burn. But since the newer leaves don’t show any tip burns, I’m more inclined to go with potassium deficiency or magnesium def. The newer leaves look like it could have interveinal chlorosis. Maybe it’s the picture colour imbalance. But if there is yellowing or pale leaf veins, I would say potassium deficiency.
 
Think of nutrient lockout as well. Make sure your ph and EC is appropriate for fertigation for your plant stage. What nute are you using man?
 
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