Matching Drivers and COBs
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
bobbuck
Well-Known Member
I've got a HLG-185H-C1050a I've been running Vero 18's on. I'm buildng a 21" x 31" cab with about 30" of room from cob to top of pot. Wondering if anyone sees a better choice for cobs that Will get the mOst out of this driver and nice even spread due to my height limitations. I plan to LST and top. thnx
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I run my LPF driver at max amperage (2150mA).
Cree CXB3590 3500k Top Bin.
16" from emitter to canopy.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I recommend the Vero 29C if you're sticking to Bridgelux. Cree CXB3590s or Citizen 1818s otherwise.
mxrz
Member
Meanwell told me that running my drivers (HLG-600H-54B) at 90~100% will reduce lifetime from the expected 62K hours down to about 20K hours and if Tcase temps go above 75deg C, the 7 year warranty is void.
I guess the question is, what kind of Tcase temps can I expect at any given load at room temps (23deg C) assuming I mount my drivers outside the tent/box.
I guess the question is, what kind of Tcase temps can I expect at any given load at room temps (23deg C) assuming I mount my drivers outside the tent/box.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
The driver? I doubt it. Maybe if the emitter is rated for near 100% of the driver amperage. It shouldn't fail, just running at full capacity, or I'd say that is a pretty shit design. I run mine pretty high, and haven't had an issue yet.
mxrz
Member
I plan to power four CLU058-1825's with one driver. 100% load would give me 150watts (max 54V) each, 80% load = 120watts... These COBs can handle that easy, I'm just worried about driving the power supply at 100%.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
When I run mine at 100% they dont feel abnormally hot, but mine are on top of the heatsinks and fan blows over them
This makes me wonder how they rate the non dimmable... just intentionally dialed back to 80% of what they are actually capable of perhaps.
Also I wouldn't really worry as 20K hours is a little over 2 years at 24hrs a day.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
If they cant do they maximum they are rated to do why not self limit so it cant reach full output and rate them to what it does do at 80% or whatever they deem safe?
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
They can handle the max. It just depletes chip life, and efficiency plummets sharply by a certain point.
And another point, as long as you can keep Tc under 75c then ( which isnt hard to do at all ) it should still be under warranty if it dies on the short side of 20k hours being on a 12/12 cycle constantly. That or you squeeze that extra ~20% out of your light and weigh the costs of possibly having to replace the driver after 7+ years... I say its really a non issue unless youre super anal about needing your driver to last 20+ years...
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I prefer to run mine at 108%
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I don't have to play with a tiny screwdriver.
Normal size screwdriver works just fine. Didnt cost me anything extra either, happened to have a screwdriver lying around lol.
I cant dim below 50% though, so you got me there.
Interesting note. Just did some testing with the multimeter and my A version dims from 37% to 114% of the rated power. Which makes me also wonder if people with dimmers are running higher than 100% without realizing it if they have their dimmer maxed.
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mxrz
Member
The same spec sheet seems to cover all versions; A, B and blank. Seeing that people run these drivers at max load makes me feel better, I'm still waiting for mine to run some tests, but if keeping Tc at a reasonable level isn't difficult (I can put a fan on the driver as well), max load shouldn't be an issue. Actually, efficiency seems to be the highest between 80% and 100% load, at least for 230V input.
Like I said though, if youre running a dimmer and have it maxed you are likely running it at over the rated 100%.
But ultimately I still believe its a non issue.
miggaman
Member
How's it going fam---
I am making my way toward the end of my shopping list and I've saved drivers for last. I'm looking for drivers for some Bridgelux Vero 29 Gen 7's:
BXRC-30E10K0-B-73 (3000K)
BXRC-50C10K1-B-74 (5000K)
COB info from datasheet:
Right now it makes sense for me to run two COBs per driver (in several micro-style totes), so I'm looking at ~~ 50V + 50V voltage drop on each circuit at a relatively small current. I plan to wire in series.
Question 1: when would someone want to get a driver that is "constant current"? I know that dimming then means varying the voltage.... but what are the advantages/disadvantages?
Question 2: do I want HLG or HLG-C series? I plan to use VegasWinner's GrowGreen LED controller. https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/
Question 3: I will need a separate driver for an LED light strip and I'm looking at waterproof Samsung IP65 LEDs that run at 12V and 7.5A (I think). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-12V...ht-High-Lumen-50LM-Ultra-Bright-/221518365283 What driver would you recommend there?
I am making my way toward the end of my shopping list and I've saved drivers for last. I'm looking for drivers for some Bridgelux Vero 29 Gen 7's:
BXRC-30E10K0-B-73 (3000K)
BXRC-50C10K1-B-74 (5000K)
COB info from datasheet:
Right now it makes sense for me to run two COBs per driver (in several micro-style totes), so I'm looking at ~~ 50V + 50V voltage drop on each circuit at a relatively small current. I plan to wire in series.
Question 1: when would someone want to get a driver that is "constant current"? I know that dimming then means varying the voltage.... but what are the advantages/disadvantages?
Question 2: do I want HLG or HLG-C series? I plan to use VegasWinner's GrowGreen LED controller. https://growgreenled.wordpress.com/
Question 3: I will need a separate driver for an LED light strip and I'm looking at waterproof Samsung IP65 LEDs that run at 12V and 7.5A (I think). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-12V...ht-High-Lumen-50LM-Ultra-Bright-/221518365283 What driver would you recommend there?
