Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

Queece

Well-Known Member
If one were to add IR during lights on after the first 3 weeks of flower, passing the majority of the stretch phase, there wouldn't really be any bad effects then eh? Just dense flowers?
What you want, is close to 90 with as close to 100% humidity as you can get. Keep that air moving, but maintain humidity. Heat alone won't do it, humidity alone won't do it, and both together won't do it unless you keep your temps and humidity just as high AT NIGHT. Pow-mil and Budrot are only capable of germinating spores in a low temperature, low humidity environment. Keep your humidity above 50% and temps >70 at night, and there is no biological way you can have a mold issue.
 

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
What you want, is close to 90 with as close to 100% humidity as you can get. Keep that air moving, but maintain humidity. Heat alone won't do it, humidity alone won't do it, and both together won't do it unless you keep your temps and humidity just as high AT NIGHT. Pow-mil and Budrot are only capable of germinating spores in a low temperature, low humidity environment. Keep your humidity above 50% and temps >70 at night, and there is no biological way you can have a mold issue.
But in that environment would you get the best product? If so why do you think so?
 

Queece

Well-Known Member
Seriously, do my e-cig experiment. It's the illustration I use all the time to great affect. High humidity air is much less dense than dryer air, meaning it can chaperon more moisture from leaves. VPD is function of the differential equation regarding stoichiometry in gaseous concentrations (stochasticism), it has nothing to do with a plant. The temperature is what is increasing the bud's metabolism and water up-take, true, but what you need is to give your plant air with the best characteristics for conveying water off a leaf rapidly.

A chimney on a dry day - smoke goes up up up
chimney on a rainy day - smoke falls to ground level and condenses

BERNOULLI !!!
 

Queece

Well-Known Member
from left to right

4 cxb 3070 3500k
4 cxb 3070 3500k
2 cxb 3070 3000k + 2 Citizen CLU044 Vivid light-pink
 

Queece

Well-Known Member
I'll never get another opportunity to post this song about two way freaks beamin you up. Enjoy this in rare context.

 

OldGrower

Well-Known Member
Yeah UB another year with really no distinct choice from either side, all libs and progressives look to the the headliners, GREAT
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Im finding that in winter my space is too cool with just the cobs, so I'm mixing hps with cobs for 4 months of the year.
When I mixed an HPS with my CDM lights on a similar theory, the plants nearest to it went on strike!

Why not just run a heater?
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
High temps also invite pests. Too much heat above 85 degrees, plants start yielding less and buds become more airy. High RH equals bud rott

75 -80 with 30% -50% RH is what you want for better yields. For better trichome production - 70-75 degrees.
 

SaltyNuts

Well-Known Member
@Queece it seems counter-intuitive to run 99% RH at 90F, but I guess the main danger is temperature drop and massive condensation. That's a big danger though, catastrophic. I don't know, it seems weird in a number of ways. But I suppose terrestrial plants evolved for many hundreds of millions of years under similar conditions. My experience corroborates that high temps suppress mold/mildew, as long as the conditions are maintained. It seems hard to keep a room at 90F and 99%RH, but in the right location it could be easier than keeping a room supplied with fresh air. You could really go for it with a CO2 burner during the light cycle, and a simple heater at night, without so much costly HVAC. Seems that a big challenge would be to keep the walls and ceiling hot enough so you don't get massive condensation dripping down. Way to destroy a house. But if in the right setting, if it turns out to be easier than maintaining the 72F-75F/50%-60% sweet spot (works for me), and yields more and better, then sheeeit yhea. Of course I am assuming that genetics are a major factor here, for getting desired results. But who knows, maybe an Afghani billygoat would love the Jungle. The tropical haze loves the mountain. Worth a shot.
 
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p4id

Well-Known Member
When I mixed an HPS with my CDM lights on a similar theory, the plants nearest to it went on strike!

Why not just run a heater?
I suppose that I am weaning my self off hps rather than going cold turkey. She's been good to me since 1989 and holds a place in my heart ;-)
 

Queece

Well-Known Member
Yeah, REALLLLLLLLY important to understand that temperature and relative humidity are correlated. All that water will condense out of the air if temps drop sharply at night. Have you guys been keeping up with Medi? He's an absolute madman, he's gone 99% humidity at 82 degrees in both his rooms, to the point where water droplets are forming on his gavita reflectors :o. He's breaking 4 pounds a light though, not very many people can do that in a room with 25 thowies. He's saying it's more important in terms of yield than CO2 or light, I am of the affirmative on that.

Seriously, the shit Medi is doing right now is groundbreaking, even under traditional HPS.
 

Queece

Well-Known Member
And he pulled down a room already that he's been keeping at those conditions, it was some absurd amount of pounds with ZERO budrot. It seems to me like you are far more likely to run into mold issues if you aren't keeping your room really hot and humid, because it might happen unintentionally once, and then normalize. Now all those spores are germinated, the only real coarse of action to save your crop is to push the temperatures back up and make the environment inhospitable to any new spores that are being thrown off.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Yeah, REALLLLLLLLY important to understand that temperature and relative humidity are correlated. All that water will condense out of the air if temps drop sharply at night. Have you guys been keeping up with Medi? He's an absolute madman, he's gone 99% humidity at 82 degrees in both his rooms, to the point where water droplets are forming on his gavita reflectors :o. He's breaking 4 pounds a light though, not very many people can do that in a room with 25 thowies. He's saying it's more important in terms of yield than CO2 or light, I am of the affirmative on that.

Seriously, the shit Medi is doing right now is groundbreaking, even under traditional HPS.

Depends on the quality though. You really don't know til you smoke it. I do no till/ probiotic / knf. My buddy runs synthetics. He gets double and triple the yields I get. But the quality and flavor of mine blows his away I even tried a couple plants with synthetics to compare and I hated smoking them. They were no where as flavorful Medi is running synthetics. It's not that hard to get big yields with synthetics.
 
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