Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
It's working faster. Many other factors come into "the best"So the plant is working at its best at 90F?
It's working faster. Many other factors come into "the best"So the plant is working at its best at 90F?
What you want, is close to 90 with as close to 100% humidity as you can get. Keep that air moving, but maintain humidity. Heat alone won't do it, humidity alone won't do it, and both together won't do it unless you keep your temps and humidity just as high AT NIGHT. Pow-mil and Budrot are only capable of germinating spores in a low temperature, low humidity environment. Keep your humidity above 50% and temps >70 at night, and there is no biological way you can have a mold issue.If one were to add IR during lights on after the first 3 weeks of flower, passing the majority of the stretch phase, there wouldn't really be any bad effects then eh? Just dense flowers?
As I thought you would say. Do certain metabolic functions stop and start at different temps? Sorry for all the questions I'm just curiousIt's working faster. Many other factors come into "the best"
But in that environment would you get the best product? If so why do you think so?What you want, is close to 90 with as close to 100% humidity as you can get. Keep that air moving, but maintain humidity. Heat alone won't do it, humidity alone won't do it, and both together won't do it unless you keep your temps and humidity just as high AT NIGHT. Pow-mil and Budrot are only capable of germinating spores in a low temperature, low humidity environment. Keep your humidity above 50% and temps >70 at night, and there is no biological way you can have a mold issue.
awesome advice.What you want, is close to 90 with as close to 100% humidity as you can get.
When I mixed an HPS with my CDM lights on a similar theory, the plants nearest to it went on strike!Im finding that in winter my space is too cool with just the cobs, so I'm mixing hps with cobs for 4 months of the year.
Yes, but I prefer to use what i have, if it works for me. When it doesn't work, I'll change it, or if funds allow, I'll update it.you are aware that there are more efficient ways to generate heat than using an HID
I suppose that I am weaning my self off hps rather than going cold turkey. She's been good to me since 1989 and holds a place in my heartWhen I mixed an HPS with my CDM lights on a similar theory, the plants nearest to it went on strike!
Why not just run a heater?
Yeah, REALLLLLLLLY important to understand that temperature and relative humidity are correlated. All that water will condense out of the air if temps drop sharply at night. Have you guys been keeping up with Medi? He's an absolute madman, he's gone 99% humidity at 82 degrees in both his rooms, to the point where water droplets are forming on his gavita reflectors . He's breaking 4 pounds a light though, not very many people can do that in a room with 25 thowies. He's saying it's more important in terms of yield than CO2 or light, I am of the affirmative on that.
Seriously, the shit Medi is doing right now is groundbreaking, even under traditional HPS.