yes very good point. the 3500K cree might one of the best cree cxb base spectrum for flowering. but can't commit until I see an SPD.Other question: I see in this and related threads that people mixed 3K and 4K LEDs.
Were there at some point no 3500k available so people used 3K and 4K (for veg/flower)...means that now it would make more sense just to get the 3500K lights, rather than mixing?
Other question: I see in this and related threads that people mixed 3K and 4K LEDs.
Were there at some point no 3500k available so people used 3K and 4K (for veg/flower)...means that now it would make more sense just to get the 3500K lights, rather than mixing?
Doesn't seem to matter much really. Lower CCT means less efficiency but more red spectrum, pretty much cancels out. You would probably get somewhat stretchier plants with lower CCTs. Sunlight itself is 4870k and I find 4000k to work fine and be a normal looking white color. It's called neutral white. I don't think anyone ever did side by side experiments to determine difference in dry weight of the various spectrums of COBs. I find the warm whites too orange for my liking and I read an article that showed that cool and neutral whites are often better, depending on species. Radishes did best with neutral.Other question: I see in this and related threads that people mixed 3K and 4K LEDs.
Were there at some point no 3500k available so people used 3K and 4K (for veg/flower)...means that now it would make more sense just to get the 3500K lights, rather than mixing?
It's already difficult if not impossible to make back the investment on CXB3070's running at 1.4A for an increase in efficiency of 20% to 30% over a top of the line HPS. Let alone almost doubling the costs by running them at 0.7A for an added 13% increase of led efficiency.the higher efficiency of running cobs at lower currents is well worthwhile. Its a property for leds (lower cuurent, higher efficiency, lower temps, higher light output, etc). Each person needs to identify their own sweet spot for efficiency versus cob cost.
3590 Cutter price $42.15 ea
3590 @ 25.4W ea = 63.5%, $3.75/PAR W
3590 @ 38W ea = 60.2%, $3.08/PAR W
3590 @ 53W ea = 55.3%, $2.62/PAR W
Is this analysis is correct, the 3590 significantly beats the 3070 in every case. This was using top bins in every case. Using Cutter's pricing puts it even more in favor of 3590.
One way to compare each build, use efficiency as a measure of performance and evaluate each build by $/PAR W with drivers/reflectors/heatsink cost included. Then just pick your favorite, scale it up to cover your space at your target PPFD.
These prices assume HLG-185H-C A version drivers adjusted to maximum current, 3.5"X42" active cooled heatsinks, ideal holders + Kingbrite reflector adapters and reflectors:
3070 Cutter and Kingbrite price $32 ea
3070 @ 26W ea = 57.5% = $3.31/PAR W
3070 @ 39W ea = 53% = $3.07/PAR W
3070 @ 54W ea = 49.7% = $2.69/PAR W
3590 Kingbrite price $46 ea
3590 @ 25.4W ea = 63.5%, $3.99/PAR W
3590 @ 38W ea = 60.2%, $3.24/PAR W
3590 @ 53W ea = 55.3%, $2.76/PAR W
3590 Cutter price $42.15 ea
3590 @ 25.4W ea = 63.5%, $3.75/PAR W
3590 @ 38W ea = 60.2%, $3.08/PAR W
3590 @ 53W ea = 55.3%, $2.62/PAR W
Is this analysis is correct, the 3590 significantly beats the 3070 in every case. This was using top bins in every case. Using Cutter's pricing puts it even more in favor of 3590.
Vero29 3500K V2 - Digikey price $27.50, using HLG-185H-36A
Vero29 @ 51.7W ea = 43% = $2.80/PAR W
Vero29 3500K V2 - Digikey price $27.50, using HLG-320H-36A
Vero29 @ 92.8W ea = 39.5% = $2.24/PAR W
I'm asking Q's that are answered in the videos lol sorry.Thanks mau5 and everyone for all of this info. I'll be reading this thread (and several others) over and over as I have never tried anything like this and I'm thinking I'd like to give it a shot.
First of many Q's,I'm sure and please forgive me for my noobness.
Where can I buy the cxb's? I've tried googling it a few different ways, but it's always the same results. The ones that come up look like they're already wired inside a fixture and cost $350 and up?
Thanks in advance
all good man i feel the same way. These videos covers everything of the basics except how to best mount your light for hangingI'm asking Q's that are answered in the videos lol sorry.
As I said I'll be doing a lot of reading to avoid being too annoying, but it's just so much new info to me.
I just saw an spd provided by GG of the 3500k, its what I was hoping for. Similar to 3K except a tiny bit more blue. Most importantly the peak near 600nm stayed in the same place.yes very good point. the 3500K cree might one of the best cree cxb base spectrum for flowering. but can't commit until I see an SPD.
Confirms what was said that just less phosphor was used not different fomulaI just saw an spd provided by GG of the 3500k, its what I was hoping for. Similar to 3K except a tiny bit more blue. Most importantly the peak near 600nm stayed in the same place.
who said that?Confirms what was said that just less phosphor was used not different fomula
Sounds plausible for sure.Confirms what was said that just less phosphor was used not different fomula
I think Maybe Supra not sure, it was in another threadwho said that?
I got 3500k based on the advice of many here who said that an exact spectrum wasn't critical and that people had good results with them.If I was buying cobs I'd be getting cool whites now, after the article I linked earlier, actually twice because the first post didn't show up at the time due to forum issues. What they found was that a blue percentage of about 25% had best results, which is cool white. They found that with that level there was enough for normal growth even at low PPF of 200, meaning shaded parts or ones in lower light zones of the space. Oddly, the neutral whites, 4000k, worked slightly less well than either warm or cool whites. Seems to be a trough at about 17% blue.
A 3/3 light schedule is new to me. Your girls sure look healthy. A couple a questions. So you will be running 3/3 until you go 12/12? And if you were doing a build today you would go with 5000K COBs exclusively?If I was buying cobs I'd be getting cool whites now, after the article I linked earlier, actually twice because the first post didn't show up at the time due to forum issues. What they found was that a blue percentage of about 25% had best results, which is cool white. They found that with that level there was enough for normal growth even at low PPF of 200, meaning shaded parts or ones in lower light zones of the space. Oddly, the neutral whites, 4000k, worked slightly less well than either warm or cool whites. Seems to be a trough at about 17% blue.
The sun does not have a static Kelvin temp.Doesn't seem to matter much really. Lower CCT means less efficiency but more red spectrum, pretty much cancels out. You would probably get somewhat stretchier plants with lower CCTs. Sunlight itself is 4870k and I find 4000k to work fine and be a normal looking white color. It's called neutral white. I don't think anyone ever did side by side experiments to determine difference in dry weight of the various spectrums of COBs. I find the warm whites too orange for my liking and I read an article that showed that cool and neutral whites are often better, depending on species. Radishes did best with neutral.
Yes it does. Perceived changes are entirely due to the influence of atmospheric conditions, such as the angle at which sunlight is passing through it, airborne contaminants, etc.The sun does not have a static Kelvin temp.
gee that's a bit literal (or should I say ana...). at the plant canopy it is far from static,Yes it does. Perceived changes are entirely due to the influence of atmospheric conditions, such as the angle at which sunlight is passing through it, airborne contaminants, etc.
that is exactly why conditions are never static with sunlight...Yes it does. Perceived changes are entirely due to the influence of atmospheric conditions, such as the angle at which sunlight is passing through it, airborne contaminants, etc.
Apparently cool whites are the best performers. Here's an article. Warm whites just cause more stem elongation, which is rarely a good thing with Cannabis.
Calling an engineer anal is considered a compliment.gee that's a bit literal (or should I say ana...). at the plant canopy it is far from static,