Ladies and gents, I have a question...I finally built my first COB light. Used a 24"x8" heatsink, running qty 4 Vero 29's (3500k) wired in series. Driver is HLG-185c-1050B. Do not have dimmer...yet. PC fan cooling the heatsink. All is good, but when I hook up my watt meter I'm confused....It shows 171 watts, 116.7 volts at 1.462 Amps! I'm new to all this but I'm using a 1050 driver from meanwell.....shouldn't it be running 1.1 A? is something wrong or running higher then it should run? I just want to make sure that this is normal, maybe I'm just confused ? Thanks in advance for the help everyone!
Meanwell Driver Question-Amps etc
- Thread starter bestguy24
- Start date
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
RTFR
(Read The Fuckin' Report* )
Almost all " 3in1 dimming" LED drivers from MeanWell do output more than the rated output current ...
Absolutely normal ,when you run the driver(s) with open (not connected ) the Dim+ / Dim- ....
* Top left between "Spec " & "Certificate" at the product datasheet page (pdf)..
Cheers.
Last edited:
Hello Sir, First of all, Thank you very much for looking this over and replying. I did actually look at the report but will admit, I get confused on the specs. . When it comes to power, volts, amps etc I really need to button down and study. I am easily confused by it all. I did understand it could run higher then rated but didn't think it would be THAT much higher!! I feel much better now though, that someone took a look and its normal. Now I can let it run and see how she does. Thanks again.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
I can say from personal experience that without a dimmer on my drivers they output more power than wide open on the pot.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
That 's the reason I do not use pots anymore ...
Instead I use a 6 position rotary switch with 5 resistors ..
At the max (rotary switch at 6th /last position ) nothing is connected to the switch and the DIm inputs of the driver...
Cheers.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that info, I was under the impression that open dimming circuit (as in the 6th position) would overdrive the driver and possibly cause shorter life.
I definitely dont need infinitely variable adjustment and agree that a few set points in enough
Rahz
Well-Known Member
This is the AC input you're measuring? It's not the same as the DC current the driver outputs.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Thats a good question
bassman999
Well-Known Member
You measure dc voltage output from the driver to the cobs
guod
Well-Known Member
any driver regardless how it works transfers energie
energie is simple watts -
watt in this case is voltage x ampere in short(P= U x I)
just a simple Example
100W with a lossless Driver needs on the mainline 100 Volt and 1 Amp.
100V x 1A = 100W
on the other side of the driver we can now go for 200V and 0.5A
200V x 0.5A= 100W
or we can run 50 volts which gives now 2 Amps
50V x 2A = 100W
in your case we have 116V in and more then 144V (4 vero´s) out, and there is no driver without a loss.
the same driver in country(230V) would run at about 0.7Amps.
energie is simple watts -
watt in this case is voltage x ampere in short(P= U x I)
just a simple Example
100W with a lossless Driver needs on the mainline 100 Volt and 1 Amp.
100V x 1A = 100W
on the other side of the driver we can now go for 200V and 0.5A
200V x 0.5A= 100W
or we can run 50 volts which gives now 2 Amps
50V x 2A = 100W
in your case we have 116V in and more then 144V (4 vero´s) out, and there is no driver without a loss.
the same driver in country(230V) would run at about 0.7Amps.