mite infestation, 2 weeks from harvest, HELP!

Agent K

Member
Can anything safely get rid of spider mites that have attacked plants that are two weeks away from harvest? I've been reading all these solutions, but they all seem to be for plants in vegetative stage. Would dry icing the room kill the mites effectively without damaging the bud? There are fucking webs on the tops. If the plants are cut down, will the mites continue to kill them, or will they die? Help, help, help!:sad:
 

benefit420

Active Member
Im not a very experienced grower but from what I have read your pretty much *#%$#. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but If they have alreadys started webs I think its too late.
 

Weedoozie

Well-Known Member
DUDE GET SOME LADYBUGS!!

they eat all that shit (spider mites, aphids, etc.) and protect your plants so you don't have to stress out your girls with mite killing additives

if you do get ladybugs, release them as you're starting dark period because at that point in the day, ladybugs land and try to find food to eat and a place for shelter. If you're plants are there with a feast of mites, the ladybugs will make home of your babies and will be around to help keep your crop nice and pest free
 

Agent K

Member
I think this situation is past the point of ladybugs. What about dry ice? And, do the mites continue to eat the plant after cutting it down?
 

RedHairs

Active Member
You can't do much about it at this point. Kill what you can with your hands, but don't spray anything on them. Once your plants are harvested, their already dead. Spidermites can't re-kill the dead. Also, they eat the sap of the living, so once you harvest and start drying, they'll die or go away. Your product isn't going to suffer much, but your plant will have a hard last few weeks of life before she's harvested.
 

Agent K

Member
So...Would the best solution be to cut down all the plants even if they're not quite done? And, for the third time, will dry icing the room work? I know that in herbariums they use CO2 to kill off insects before filing their specimens.
 

RedHairs

Active Member
So...Would the best solution be to cut down all the plants even if they're not quite done? And, for the third time, will dry icing the room work? I know that in herbariums they use CO2 to kill off insects before filing their specimens.
No, let em finish. Just kill what you can by hand.

I've never tried to gas em. I've read about it in one of my books before, but I don't remember what it said. I'd imagine you'd have to buy a lot of dry ice to smother such small bugs!! You'd prolly freeze the plants in the process. It would probably be cheaper to inject CO2 than to use the dry ice. But hey, if you're willing to try; let us all know what you find out.
 

Agent K

Member
No, let em finish. Just kill what you can by hand.

I've never tried to gas em. I've read about it in one of my books before, but I don't remember what it said. I'd imagine you'd have to buy a lot of dry ice to smother such small bugs!! You'd prolly freeze the plants in the process. It would probably be cheaper to inject CO2 than to use the dry ice. But hey, if you're willing to try; let us all know what you find out.
I've decided on the dry-ice experiment. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
 

greenman215

Member
I just sprayed with SNS-217 which was highly recommended but my mites are back a week later... If the mite problem is minimal, would the ladybugs still be a viable solution to my problem? they are cheap and abundant at my local garden store and I want to nip this in the bud
 

RedHairs

Active Member
I just sprayed with SNS-217 which was highly recommended but my mites are back a week later... If the mite problem is minimal, would the ladybugs still be a viable solution to my problem? they are cheap and abundant at my local garden store and I want to nip this in the bud
I'm not intimate with SNS-217, but if it's like most insecticides, it only kills the adults and not the eggs. That's why after a short period they come back. You're supposed to re-apply it after two or three days to kill the freshly hatched. Yes, that is a lot of poison in your garden. This is why most don't like to use chemicals to fight bugs. But it does work if you have a terible infestation AND you haven't begun to flower.

If ladybugs are cheap, try them! Again, I don't know if your application of SNS-217 will kill your ladybugs too.

Good luck.

Agent K: Hows the experiment going?
 

Agent K

Member
Agent K: Hows the experiment going?
Hahahahahhaha! It worked. Those bugs are dead and gone. As for the plants, it was kinda like flash freezing them, preserving them for a moment in time. When you flash freeze something, (usually food) it freezes so fast that large crystals aren't able to form and damage the cell membranes. And when the temperature starts climbing again, they "thaw out", I guess you could say, but without any moisture damage. They weren't frozen to the point of shattering at the touch, and when temperatures rose to normal again, they weren't dripping wet. (By the way, they were cut down shortly after this) The only side effect I've observed is some of the leaves on the bud turning a violet color and some turning dark blue, and I know this is from the "cold cure", not natural of the strain. I find it kind of pretty though, and everything else is good, (smell, crystals, swollen calyx, etc) of course I don't know about the taste yet. Now the room needs to be sealed off, cleaned thoroughly, and an ozone generator needs to be left on overnight before that room can be used again. I know some insect eggs can survive in extreme cold for up to like, 7 years. But they can't survive the ozone generator.
 

RedHairs

Active Member
Cool! Good to hear. How much did you use, and how big is your grow space? How long did the ice last?
 

HornedFishy

Active Member
As someone who has had massive problems with spider mites let me give some advice. Anyone who says to abandon ship is silly(unless they are just infecting everything else). At the very worst you can make some tincture if you cannot smoke it. It might cost you a little money but you can basically salvage any grow from the little fuckers. They for the most part, will not attack the buds if your pot is dank at all. The non psychoactive trichromes on the bottom of leaves contain a natural miteicides and insecticides and gum up their mouth parts when they try to consume them. They do not like the buds and will leave them alone, especially if they showed up after a lot of your crystals have formed.

I have tried every homemade solution there is and unless it's a REALLY mild infestation, its not worth the time or effort. Go out and buy an aerosol spray, something that has Pyrethrins in it. This stuff will kill anything it touches and has a half life of like 6 hours in light so you can use it really close to harvest, especially given drying times and such.They make pump sprays with pyrethrins in it but its WAY harder to erradicate all the mites because you have to get under each leaf by hand where as sprays tend to fog and are much easier to use, although WAY worse to inhale so take proper pro-cations. A company named Prescription Treatment makes a Pyrethrum TR BOMB that can treat 3,000 sq. ft. and only costs about $20 where I live. The pyrethrins concentration is lower in the BOMB but it also has an ingredient Piperonyl Butoxide, Technical which helps the fog dissipate and spread out better and will increase the effectiveness of the pyrethrins, especially on eggs. It is a bomb but you can break a peice off and use it as a normal spray if you have the proper P.P.E. on. I thought I wasn't going to use it all but I ended up doing so. If you have good ventilation I would just bomb the whole room, with the ventilation and lights off.

As I just said spraying do any spraying or bombing after lights go off of course, to avoid burning. This will also extend the effectiveness of the spray because it will not break down in the light immediately and will be effective all night. Turn ventilation systems off for a few hours right when you spray, but I wouldn't leave that off all night. You will notice webs on the buds and leaves and such once they get sprayed down. Don't worry about it, all the mites in them should be dead and the next step will get rid of the webs.

Once you have sprayed with that go get a product called Azamax from General Hydroponics or the generic alternative.. aza..crol? or something. The active ingredient is Azadirachtin which is basically the active ingredient in Neem oil. This stuff is not cheap per say but works wonders. You can also mix it with water and water with it to treat for fungus gnats and other soil born larvae. The hrdroshop I went to said I should do this for the mites as well as spraying but that's not what the instructions imply and it takes way more of the product and I didn't do it but don't have mites anymore so... yeah.

Anyway it's great stuff, mix it right before you use it and only mix as much as you are going to use because it breaks down in water. I always just use the most concentrated spray the instructions say and it never burns my plants or anything. The night after you use the bomb or spray with whatever else wait for the lights to go off or spray a few hours before they come on. They just need to be dry by the time the lights come back on, or they WILL burn. Now spray the shit out of them. I try my best to spray every surface at least twice to the best of my ability. Make sure you get the undersides because that is where they primarily live and reproduce. It is time consuming, it sucks, but you don't have to ware a mask and it doesn't irritate my lungs or skin, and it works... so it's totally worth it.

Spray them down every 5-10 days, and they will quickly be gone. If they are a constant problem or you are the one bringing them in with you may need to continue spraying but for the most part 3 or 4 applications should do it. After which something like lady bugs would actually do good at controlling the population.. but they will never get rid of an infestation. You need a LOT of parasitic mites if you want that to happen. Azadiractin is an anti-feedant, an insect growth regulatior, an anti-ovipository, and a repellant. It is OMRI certified, not much more expensive then regular neem oil, and by far the best product for controlling mites I have ever used.

Given all this even if you don't get rid of the mites in time for harvest, fear not. I had a couple harvests before I figured out a good way to eradicate them. Try to spray the webs down and away a couple days before you cut them, while the lights are off, with just plain water if you haven't had a chance to do any of the above. As long as webs are not on the buds at time of harvest things will probably be okay. Cut off any horribly infected leaves the day before they get moved to dark, try to really reduce their population as much as possible by removing leaves they are on. Make sure to move the plants to dark a day before you cut for other reasons but it also encourages a lot of the mites to jump ship before the cut. Once it is cut hang it upside down, from experience most of the the mites will collect at the base where it was cut collecting moisture. I always sprayed them down at this location periodically with rubbing alcohol.

The next step is to manicure before its dry, because it is away easier to see the mites and infected leaves. Manicure the shit out of the pot. It will take forever because you can't just clip the tips of leaves. But I have sold stuff that was horribly infected but by the time I manicured it all the kid said to me was that i was manicured really well and that he got a lot of complements on the taste. If you are willing to put in the time, I doubt your crop is ruined.

Sorry for the really long post.
 
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