Miticed Info.

[h=1]Chemical Miticides[/h][h=6]There are many miticides available to treat spider mites. I will try and explain what these are and how they work.[/h][h=6]When it comes to selecting a miticide to control spider mites in landscapes and nurseries, there is sometimes confusion that all miticides are similar in terms of their use and the range of mites that they control. However, miticides are not all created equal because they may vary in where they can be used and the target mites on the label. Following are detailed descriptions of several miticides that are generally recommended for controlling mites both indoors and/or outdoors.[/h][h=2][/h][h=2]Akari[/h][h=6]Akari has the active ingredient fenpyroximate, manufactured by SePRO Corp. This miticide has a very general label stating control of spider mites. It is also labeled for control of broad mite, cyclamen mite and eriophyid mites (several species). Akari is a contact and stomach poison, so complete coverage of all plant parts is important during application. Akari does not have translaminar activity. It is active on all mite life stages including eggs. However, it has higher efficacy against the larvae than the other life stages. Akari works quickly, providing rapid knockdown of existing mite populations. In fact, treated mites immediately stop feeding and females fail to lay eggs. This miticide provides up to 21 days of residual activity.[/h][h=6]The label rate is 16-24 fl.oz. per 100 gals. Akari has a similar mode of action as pyridaben (Sanmite) and acequinocyl (Shuttle). All three miticides are mitochondria electron transport inhibitors (METIs). However, the site of action is different from that of Shuttle. Still, these miticides should not be used in succession in a rotation program. Akari has a mode of action that involves inhibition of the mitochondria electron transport system at the NADH-coenzyme Q reductase site of Complex I.[/h]
[h=2]Floramite[/h][h=6]Which contains the active ingredient bifenazate is labeled for control of a wide range of mites, including twospotted spider mite, Pacific mite, strawberry mite, European red mite, citrus red mite, clover mite, southern red mite, spruce spider mite, and bamboo spider mite. It is not active on rust, broad, or flat mite. Floramite is labeled for use in greenhouses, shadehouses, nurseries, Christmas tree plantations, landscapes, and interiorscapes. This is a contact miticide, so thorough coverage of all plant parts is essential. This miticide is active on all mite life stages, including eggs. Floramite is fast acting and provides up to 28 days of residual activity. The label rate is 4 to 8 fl oz per 100 gal.[/h][h=6]TetraSan contains the active ingredient etoxazole and is actually a growth regulator for mites, inhibiting the molting process. TetraSan is labeled for control of the following mites: twospotted spider mite, citrus red mite, European red mite, lewis spider mite, Pacific spider mite, Southern red mite, and spruce spider mite. TetraSan can be used to control mites in greenhouses, lathhouses, shadehouses, and interiorscapes and on outdoor ornamentals. Similar to abamectin (Avid) (described previously), TetraSan is a contact and translaminar miticide providing up to 28 days of residual activity from a single application. The label rate for controlling mites is 8 to 16 oz per 100 gal. The product is active on the egg, larvae, and nymphal stages. It has minimal effect on adult mites. However, adult female mites that are treated do not produce viable eggs.[/h][h=2]Hexygon[/h][h=6]Hexygon, manufactured by Gowan Co., contains the active ingredient hexythiazox and is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, arborvitae spider mite, European red mite, honey locust spider mite, Pacific spider mite, Southern red mite, spruce spider mite, strawberry mite and Willamette mite. Hexygon is a contact and stomach poison miticide, so thorough coverage of all plant parts is essential. The miticide may provide up to 45 days of residual activity. The label rate is 1-2 oz. per 100 gals. Hexygon is active on mite eggs and the larvae stage. In fact, any eggs deposited by adult females that contact treated surfaces are not viable; however, Hexygon has no direct activity on adult mites. Hexygon has the same mode of action as clofentezine (Ovation), so it is important to avoid using these two miticides in succession in a rotation program. The mode of action of Hexygon involves disrupting the formation of the embryo during development or inhibiting larval maturation. However, the specific mode of action and target site of activity are still not well understood.[/h]
[h=2]Judo[/h][h=6]This insectide/miticide, manufactured by OHP Inc., contains the active ingredient spiromesifen. It is formulated as a 480 soluble concentrate (SC) containing 4 lbs. of active ingredient per gallon. Judo is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, Southern red mite, Lewis mite, tumid mite, maple spider mite, spruce spider mite, honeylocust spider mite, euonymus mite, boxwood spider mite, broad mite, cyclamen mite, false spider mite and eriophyid mites (several species).[/h][h=6]This miticide is similar to pyridaben (Sanmite) in terms of target pests, with activity on both spider mites and whiteflies. Judo is active on all life stages — even the eggs — of both spider mites and whiteflies. However, Judo is less effective against the adult stage. The label rate is 2-4 fl.oz. per 100 gals. The miticide has translaminar activity providing up to 30 days of residual activity, which is similar to other miticides including hexythiazox (Hexygon), bifenazate (Floramite) and abamectin (Avid).[/h][h=6]Judo has a very unique mode of action compared to the other insecticide/miticides currently available. The active ingredient works as a lipid biosynthesis inhibitor. Lipids are a group of compounds made up of carbon and hydrogen, which includes fatty acids, oils and waxes. Lipid molecules are responsible for a number of functions such as cell structure in membranes and sources of energy. As such, Judo blocks the production of lipids, which disrupts cell membrane structural integrity and reduces energy sources.[/h]
[h=2]Ovation[/h][h=6]Ovation, manufactured by Scotts Co., contains the active ingredient clofentezine and is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, Pacific spider mite, McDaniel spider mite, European red mite and yellow spider mite. Because Ovation is a contact miticide only, thorough coverage of all plant parts is critical during application. This miticide is active on mite eggs and the immature stages, such as the nymphs and larvae, with no direct activity on adult mites.[/h][h=6]Although Ovation is slow acting, it can provide up to 45 days of residual activity. The label rate is 2 fl.oz. per 100 gals. Ovation has the same mode of action as hexythiazox (Hexygon), which means these two miticides should not be used in succession in a rotation program. Ovation has a mode of action that disrupts the formation of the embryo during development or inhibiting larval maturation. However, the specific mode of action and target site of activity are still not well understood.[/h]
[h=2]ProMite[/h][h=6]ProMite (formally Vendex) is one of the older miticides and contains the active ingredient fenbutatin-oxide. Manufactured by Griffin LLC, this miticide is available in water-soluble packets and is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, clover mite, oak mite, Southern red mite and spruce spider mite. ProMite is a contact miticide only, so it is important to thoroughly spray all plant parts during application. This miticide is slower acting than most miticides, taking 7-10 days to eventually kill mites. However, it provides up to 30 days of residual activity. The label rate is 8-16 oz. per 100 gals. ProMite is a warm-weather miticide providing better control when the ambient air temperature is above 70° F. ProMite has a mode of action involving the inhibition of oxidative phosphorylation at the site of dinitrophenol uncoupling, which disrupts the formation or synthesis of ATP. This is a restricted use miticide (48-hour restricted entry interval).[/h][h=2]Pylon[/h][h=6]Is a miticide that is can be used only in greenhouses. It contains the active ingredient chlorfenapyr. Pylon is labeled for control of various mites, including twospotted spider mite, broad mite, cyclamen mite, citrus bud mite, and rust mite. Pylon is a contact and translaminar miticide. In addition, it works as a stomach poison when ingested. Pylon is only active on the mobile life stages, including larvae, nymphs, and adults. It has no activity on mite eggs. The product can provide up to 28 days of residual activity. The label rate is 2.6 to 5.2 fl oz per 100 gal.[/h]
[h=2]Sanmite[/h][h=6]The active ingredient in Sanmite, manufactured by Scotts Co., is pyridaben. Sanmite is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, broad mite, European red mite, Southern red mite and tumid mite. Sanmite is a contact insecticide/miticide only, so thorough coverage of all plant parts is important for effective control. It has activity on all mite life stages, including eggs, nymphs, larvae and adults. Sanmite works quickly on the mobile stages and may provide up to 45 days of residual activity.[/h][h=6]The label rate is 4 oz. per 100 gals. Sanmite has a similar mode of action as fenpyroximate (Akari) and acequinocyl (Shuttle). All three are METIs; however, the site of action is different from Shuttle. Still, these miticides should not be used in succession in a rotation program. Sanmite has a mode of action that involves inhibition of the mitochondria electron transport system at the NADH-coenzyme Q reductase site of Complex I.[/h]
[h=2]Shuttle[/h][h=6]Shuttle has the active ingredient acequinocyl. Manufactured by Arysta LifeScience, this miticide is formulated as a 15-percent soluble concentrate (SC). Shuttle is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite and spruce spider mite. The miticide works by contact activity only but is active on all spider mite life stages, including eggs. It kills spider mites quickly and provides up to 28-days of residual activity. The label rate is 6.4 to 12.8 fl.oz. per 100 gals. Shuttle has a mode of action similar to fenpyroximate (Akari) and pyridaben (Sanmite) as all three miticides are METIs. However, whereas both Akari and Sanmite work in blocking electron transfer at Complex I in the mitochondria, Shuttle binds to the Qo center of Complex III in the mitochondria, reducing energy production by preventing synthesis of ATP. Regardless, it is still important to avoid using any one of these three miticides in succession in a rotation program.[/h]
[h=2]TetraSan[/h][h=6]TetraSan, manufactured by Valent U.S.A. Corp., contains the active ingredient etoxazole, and is actually a growth regulator for mites, inhibiting the molting process. TetraSan is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, citrus red mite, European red mite, Lewis spider mite, Pacific spider mite, Southern red mite and spruce spider mite. This miticide has both contact and translaminar activity providing up to 28 days of control from a single application. The label rate is 8-16 oz. per 100 gals. TetraSan is active on the egg, larvae, and nymphal stages of mites. It generally has minimal activity on adult mites. However, adult female mites that are treated do not produce viable eggs. The mode of action of TetraSan is as a chitin synthesis inhibitor by preventing the formation of chitin, which is an essential component of an insect and mite’s exoskeleton causing the cuticle to become thin and brittle. As a result, mites die while attempting to molt from one life stage to the next.[/h]

[h=2]Vendex[/h][h=6]Is one of the older miticides and contains the active ingredient fenbutatin-oxide. The miticide is labeled for control of twospotted spider mite, clover mite, Southern red mite, and spruce spider mite. Vendex can be used in greenhouses, on outdoor ornamentals, and on established landscape ornamentals and nurseries. This is a contact miticide, so it is important to thoroughly spray all plant parts during application. Vendex is slower acting than most miticides, taking 7 to 10 days to eventually kill mites. However, it provides long-lasting control–about 30 days of residual activity. The label rate is 8 to 16 oz per 100 gal. Vendex is a warm-weather miticide providing better control when the ambient air temperature is above 70 degrees F. This product is a restricted-use pesticide.[/h]

Root Aphids: Arch-Enemy of Cannabis Dec 01 2011 2 Comments

[h=3] [/h][h=3]Diagnosis and Biological Control[/h] Quiet but vicious, root aphids are the worst kind of pest that a Cannabis gardener can face. Commonly confused with fungus gnats, even by experienced growers, root aphids are a separate and significantly more aggressive pest facing Cannabis gardeners today. Proper diagnosis between these pests is crucial in order to control them. Aphids are notorious for their ability to adapt to new environments, especially when it comes to developing resistance to chemical controls. To effectively control these pests using biological methods, insect-eating worms called parasitic nematodes can be recruited to hunt down root aphids. There are also certain types of fungi that infect and grow on insects, killing them in the process. The key to using these biological products effectively is to understand the type of environment that favors the growth of the product, whether it is an insect or a fungus. When properly applied, these biological controls offer more complete control over aphid populations than chemical controls.
[h=4]Know Your Enemy[/h]Root aphids can quickly build to large infestations if misdiagnosed. The first sign of this terrible pest in plant growth is just a simple yellowing of the leaves from the bottom up. This common effect can also be caused by over-watering, under-watering, under-feeding or pH imbalances. Typically, growers begin to address the yellowing by adjusting one of these variables while the pest populations build quietly in the root zone where they often go unnoticed. Fungus gnats produce flying adults very quickly in their life cycle. But root aphids typically do not form winged adults until the populations in the root zone have reached infestation levels. By the time you see them flying, the roots are covered in many generations of aphids. Inspect the root zone of your garden regularly.
Root aphids (possibly related to the genus Phylloxera although I don't believe that's definitive yet) can enter the garden either as wingless nymphs on infected plants, can fly in as winged adults or can even hitch a ride on the gardener's shoes or clothing. Avoid walking through landscaped, muddy or grassy areas before entering your grow room. Sealing your garden space and filtering your intake air is an excellent preventative measure. Root aphids can vary widely in color, but are typically brown or black when they get larger and are green, reddish, translucent or brown in the younger stages. They are rounded to teardrop-shaped with six legs. Aphids use an appendage that looks like a long, snout-like dagger (called a stylet) to pierce into the roots and suck the sugars from the plant as they are transported down from the leaves into the roots via the vascular tissue. Under a magnifying scope (a 30x or more jewelers loupe works great for easy identification of pests and is cheap and portable), the stylet can be seen by putting the aphid on it's back – the stylet is kept tucked back against the abdomen. From the top view, aphids can be clearly identified by the presence of two short structures protruding from their back end that look like “dual exhaust pipes”. They're called siphunculi and some aphids use them to excrete compounds that signal danger to the other aphids. This mechanism has been called a “pheromone alarm”. Other species of aphids use these structures to excrete defensive compounds. More research is needed to determine the specific function of the siphunculi in Cannabis root aphids.
When it comes to reproduction, aphids are truly incredible. Capable of both sexual and asexual reproduction according to environmental cues, these insects can reproduce at lightning speed when conditions are good, and then later go into sexual reproduction mode to create winged individuals capable of flying to another host plant. Aphids seem to sense how abundant the resources are as they're colonizing. When resources become scarce and/or the population becomes too large, they produce adults with wings in order to move on to the next area of juicy plants. When reproducing asexually (through a process called parthenogenesis), aphid colonies expand quickly due to the mother's ability to give birth to live offspring, many of which are already pregnant with the next generation in them when they are born. As long as there are plenty of roots to infect, they'll keep silently colonizing at top speed and won't produce the easily observable flying individuals until they've already infested the entire root zone of the garden. Another cue they use to know when to make winged adults is the short days and colder temperatures of fall and early winter. During these months, aphids sprout wings and search for a warmer place to destroy crops, like a nice grow room with unfiltered air coming in.[h=4]Gnat's So Confusing![/h] Root aphids are commonly mistaken for fungus gnats, another Cannabis pest that hatches in the root zone and then starts flying around. Compared to root aphids however, fungus gnats are relatively benign. They eat the roots a little and they vector fungal root diseases, but often the plants yield moderately despite the pest even if there's no major grower intervention to control them. Of course, their decent yield of nugs is covered in gnats that got stuck to the resin, which is gross. But bad as that is, root aphids are much, much worse still. They will suck every bit of life out of the plants, pulling them just about back into the medium that they grew out of and then they'll all start flying around trying to find another garden to infest. Plus, they also get stuck to whatever buds remain.Fungus gnats in the larvae stage don't really look like classic bugs at all. They look like tiny white worms with a black dot on one end - that's its head. Once they mature, they fly around and lay more eggs in the soil surface. You can use a number of different controls, but the bacterium Bti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) is organic, effective, safe and available in many different formulations for easy application in any garden. The most important thing to remember is that these products only work for fungus gnats and will not affect root aphids at all. I hear this repeated too often: that growers can treat root aphids with Gnatrol or Mosquito Dunks. This is simply not true and will only cost you valuable time in gaining control.
Fungus gnats and root aphids can both collect on sticky traps and it's not uncommon to have gnats in the same gardens with the root aphids, which can further lead to a misdiagnosis. Differentiating between the pests is easy when looking at the roots, so if you can gently slide a plant out of its pot for inspection, this is the easiest way to see them. The gnats are white worms with black heads and the aphids look like tiny, brownish grapes with legs. The white worms of gnat larvae like to hang out in the top few inches of soil. Aphids tend to colonize on the exposed roots at the edge of the pot and near the drain holes. The aphids vary in size but are roughly the size (and color) of coco fiber grains, making identification in coco more difficult still. Sticky traps can be used to monitor adults of both pests. The wings are roughly the same size between the 2, but the body of the gnat is thin and elongated whereas the aphid body is plump and teardrop-shaped.[h=4]Send in the Troops: Parasitic Nematodes[/h] Predatory nematodes are microscopic worms that parasitize and feed on insects. Applying them is like having your own army to battle it out with the aphids – and these are some aggressive soldiers. Nematodes infect by burrowing inside soil pests, then release specific bacteria to kill it. They continue feeding on the inside of the bug while they reproduce as many generations as they can before they've finally consumed everything but the exoskeleton. Then, they break open the cadaver's exterior and a pile of hungry little worms are released to go find more prey. I've used several types of nematodes over the years, but in my experience, heterohabilis bacteriophera is the most effective species. Sold under the brand name NemaSeek by Arbico Organics, these microscopic worms are the most mobile nematode species. Within 48 hours of application, Nematodes will already have infected and slowed the feeding and reproduction of the aphids. Within a week, aphid populations should be devastated and it should be difficult to find moving individuals on the roots. A follow up application should be done if pest populations were extremely high before the first application of nematodes just for good measure. Nematodes must be shipped quickly and should ideally be applied the day they arrive for maximum viability. Arbico claims they can be stored for a few weeks in the refrigerator, but the sooner the application the better. Most biocontrol suppliers including Arbico will offer the ability to schedule shipments in advance if you know you want to do 2 applications separated by a few weeks for instance. Have your root zone wet before applying the nematodes and mix them in a small amount of water like a bucket. Then apply a small amount of nematode concentrate to each plant site.[h=4]Fight Back with Fungi[/h] Beauveria bassiana, (sold under the brand names Mycotrol and Botaniguard), is a fungus that parasitizes insects. Growers will want to obtain the “WP” version, which stands for “Wettable Powder” in order to apply it to the root zone. Spores infect the insect by contact, and then the bug gets sick and dies. The mycelium (fungus roots) of the beauveria bassiana digests the bug’s insides and, in spots where the humidity is high, can actually “mummify” the insect in a cottony-looking growth that is made of more infective spores. It's like the Bubonic Plague for soft-bodied insects. Beauveria bassiana prefers humid conditions but still works on contact at moderate humidity levels. It needs to be significantly humid (85%+) in order to grow new spores and mummify the bug, but the microclimate of the root zone is typically very humid even when the rest of the grow room is not. The major limiting factor in a grow room situation is the fact that high levels of nitrates in the fertilizer solution can kill fungus spores. In soil or soilless mix systems, growers should apply the fungus product by itself without other additives, then reduce their fertilizer concentration for the following few days to week. The lower nutrient levels of cloning and early veg are typically not too much, and later in flowering, the lower nitrogen levels increase the effectiveness of the fungus. It also works well as a preventative measure around the perimeter of the grow space during rainy months, especially if there are landscaped or wooded areas adjacent to the growing environment. Beauveria bassiana is a naturally occurring soil fungus and is compatible with parasitic nematodes. Both organisms are referred to as “entomopathogenic”, meaning they infect bugs. For more information, look up entomopathogenic fungi or entomopathogenic nematodes on Wikipedia, as there are several types of each.[h=4]Chemicals, Resistance and The Importance of Hungry Soldiers[/h] Controlling aphids with chemical controls is difficult because of their adaptability and large populations. Most organic (and even inorganic) pesticides fail to completely remove the aphid population. Because aphids give birth to live pregnant young without the need for a mate, it only takes a single individual surviving to re-establish an aphid colony. The new colony started by the resistant individual will tolerate the same chemical application much better next time and many resistant individuals will survive, making it easier to re-establish faster. When using biological organisms to control pests, growers take advantage of the fact that the new parasitic organism wants to live and aggressively take over wherever conditions are favorable. Because nematodes will die in the absence of prey, they will continue hunting and feeding and reproducing until every last aphid has been found. In fact, the more aphids that get eaten, the more nematodes are being produced. So the last few aphids remaining will face the largest population of nematodes. Because the nematodes will hunt for food until they die from a lack of it, you can be sure they'll look high and low for stubborn, hidden aphids. Also, both nematodes and beauveria bassiana fungus are applied in massive numbers as well, effectively matching the large populations of the aphids. Nematodes are available in packs of 5 million, 10 million and up. Beaveria bassiana spores are released in increments even larger than that.
The only time a grower may want to use an (OMRI approved) organic pesticide as a drench is to create an initial “knock down” of pest populations before application of a biocontrol. For instance, if you discover you have root aphids and you order nematodes right away, it will still take a few days to get them. In some areas, hydroponic stores have started to carry refrigerated nematodes, but if there isn't one locally to you, you'll want to order online with express shipping. In the meanwhile, you can try drenching a refined azadirachtin product such as Azamax or Azatrol. This will reduce their populations significantly and temporarily inhibit their feeding and reproduction as well. I've seen conflicting research on the compatibility of Azamax with predatory nematodes. To be safe, I'd suggest rinsing the Azamax out before applying nematodes.
There are many biocontrol suppliers online. For nematodes, I like Arbico's NemaSeek, but many places have H. bacteriophora available. Some companies also have different shipping days, so it may pay off to shop around. Another good biocontrol supplier is Rincon Vitova – they're based in Southern California and have very good deals on predatory mites (that eat bad mites) and soil inoculants. They also carry nematodes as well. Root aphids are no fun, but there's no need to panic and drench chemicals in the root zone. Nature has provided us with plenty of useful tools to fight this parasite with other aggressive parasites, both nematode and fungal. Inspect your roots regularly, avoid other gardens and if you see them show up - send in the troops to kick their siphunculi into next month - where you can find more “know-how to grow now” right here in the Grower's Grove.
-Jade Kine(Growers Grove writer Jade Kine is a former greenhouse manager for the medical Cannabis industry with over a million plants worth of experience. He is also the founder of CannAcademy (www.CannAcademy.com), a trade school dedicated solely to horticultural training for growers. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript en http://www.kushmagazine.com/news/legalnews/2079-a-gentle-ban-give-us-a-break
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They only other method that has conquered Root Aphids Chemically or organically for Me Has been Products with Imidacloprid in them ( Imidacloprid is a patented neonicotinoid manufactured by the Bayer Cropscience company. Neonicotinoids refer to the class neuro-active insecticides that are modeled after nicotine. Imidacloprid products take various forms including seed treatment, insecticide spray, flea control, and termite control.

Thanks for the link, I am looking at ordering the Garden Deluxe Variety W/nematodes. I have had mites this round and Fungus Gnats (just did a neem/azamax drench in the veg room)

Recently I saw one mature root aphid in the flower room and two in the veg room.
Not sure how worried I should be? I inspected the roots of two plants in the veg room and didn't see signs of aphid larvae.
Are they like mites = prepare for thermo-nuclear warfare!


or could I realistically get them under control with Neem drench, Spinosad, and Habanero solution?

I am 4 weeks into flower now and not comfortable using azamax at this point. Spinosad I will be done using in a week or so. May have to pick up some Mighty Wash but the Deluxe Insect Package looks legit... not to mention the time it could save, even at $80 delivered...

I would use azamax over neem at 4 weeks and spinosad might not work. Don't know about mighty wash and doesn't go far. Not to sure about the pepper sauce but ya know they say it works

Thanks for the reply, the 3 or so root aphids I saw quickly turned into 200-300 I identified via tape on the tent floor. I did do a light and dilute neem/azamax drench after I posted. Did a lot of research and decided on using pyrethrin as a dunk along with a small amount of rosemary oil and soap. That was 3 days ago, the plants seemed to take it in stride. Yesterday I checked the fresh tape I put down in the tent to see what was still crawling around and saw about 5 aphids on it. Today I checked and there were still only 5 aphids there. I have not seen a single gnat in the air or on any new fly strips since the dunk.

Probably too early to claim success but I am happy with the results. Hopefully this will keep them at bay until harvest = Bleach and Bomb Time...

Given the benefit of hindsight I am actually happy I gained the experience in dealing with mites/gnats/root aphids. I have a much better feel for the preventative measures I can take in the future to avoid headaches.

i like the avid but its gear up time and i like the forbid, the hexygon that shit is pimp specialy for those broad mights pylar the shit you just gota time right thats all..

TWS said:

They only other method that has conquered Root Aphids Chemically or organically for Me Has been Products with Imidacloprid in them ( Imidacloprid is a patented neonicotinoid manufactured by the Bayer Cropscience company. Neonicotinoids refer to the class neuro-active insecticides that are modeled after nicotine. Imidacloprid products take various forms including seed treatment, insecticide spray, flea control, and termite control.

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It's called confidor in Australia and you can get a capsule to put into the root zone which breaks down slowly protecting the plant through its lifecycle. Thanks for the info.

I've read up on IMADACLOPRID and according to OSHA's studies on it its one of the safest pesticides available.
With virtually no runoff contamination and in laboratory studies very few averse affects on animals tested.

redeyedfrog said:

I've read up on IMADACLOPRID and according to OSHA's studies on it its one of the safest pesticides available.
With virtually no runoff contamination and in laboratory studies very few averse affects on animals tested.

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Except perhaps bees.

Well

SnapsProvolone said:

Except perhaps bees.

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you can't have it all lol!

redeyedfrog said:

Well

you can't have it all lol!

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Colony Collapse Disorder, quite possibly linked to imidacloprid, is a serious issue when you consider the volume of our food crops that rely on bees for pollination.

TETRASAN.....that is all

Dude I am not a farmer, I am sure my use of imacloprid for home gardening has minimal impact. Besides My neighbour has a hive and no issues last three years.
I think you need to focus on industrial farming for your culprit.

thump easy said:

i like the avid but its gear up time and i like the forbid, the hexygon that shit is pimp specialy for those broad mights pylar the shit you just gota time right thats all..

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Did i tell u I went to the hospital please know your pros n cons