MOAB (Mother of all blooms) VS Nectar For The Gods!!!

Yeah, I mix different nutrient lineups all the time just never used AN. I grow in supersoil, and add nutes as needed. Sometimes that is GH flora nova, sometimes its one of 3 diff nutes from Botanicare, and sometimes just some Alaska fish fert. Nothing too fancy for me.

I try to keep an open mind, looking forward to the test. Thanks again for taking the time to run it bro.
 
Flora Nova in indeed some good stuff IMO! Talking about "super soil".. I have my very own mix that will carry a plant "usually" from seed to finish w/ minimal nutes having to be adding in between, if any.. I called it Dank's black gold.. ;) Unfortunately I don't have access to the materials I need being it winter months, or I would be using it myself now ;). Had to move my worm bed indoors lol. I will defiantly shoot you the ingredients if you'd like..
Cascadian said:
Yeah, I mix different nutrient lineups all the time just never used AN. I grow in supersoil, and add nutes as needed. Sometimes that is GH flora nova, sometimes its one of 3 diff nutes from Botanicare, and sometimes just some Alaska fish fert. Nothing too fancy for me.

I try to keep an open mind, looking forward to the test. Thanks again for taking the time to run it bro.
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Yeah man, I would appreciate that. I'm curious what you put in the mix. My mix could take them through but I like to give them an extra bump every so often. Last batch I added azomite, I think it made a big difference.
 
Ok cool beans then.. I will have to go hunting through my emails where I have shared with a few other growers here.. Yeah, the azomite does make a noticeable difference in my opinion as well. As well as "meal" products, such as bone meal,blood meal, etc",etc"..
Cascadian said:
Yeah man, I would appreciate that. I'm curious what you put in the mix. My mix could take them through but I like to give them an extra bump every so often. Last batch I added azomite, I think it made a big difference.
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churchhaze said:
45 dollars for 500g? That's ridiculous! A pound (around 500g but not quite) of KH2PO4 (mono potassium phosphate) is about $3.50 dollars when bought by the pound, and less when bought in 50 pound bags ($82.50).

Same stuff... Different price. Same NPK ratio, same ingredients, same product. same salt. Same thing. Same.

http://www.cropking.com/HydroponicS...64_268&zenid=21c1aea295349ba5096db9d0cca1a1fb
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I never argued it was different. I simply pointed out to benripped his claims regarding price of MOAB vs. AN was way off
 


[FONT=arial, sans-serif]Hey again.. Sorry it took me a few to get my recipe to you. I couldn't locate it at first. Hope you enjoy.. ;)[/FONT] "Danks Black Gold" . as follows : I start off with any organic soil as a base soil, or how many ever bags of soil you need large bags of high quality Organic potting soil with a coco and mycorrhizae as your base. Then add the following to that. 1 cup of Washed coco fibers, 2 cups alaskan peat moss, 4 cups perlite, 1/2 yucca meal, 1/2 pumice, 1/4th cup diatoms, 1 cup worm castings,1/4th cup feather meal, 1/2 fishmeal, 1/2 cup kelp meal, 1/4th gypsum, 1/4th cup 1/3rd cup soybean meal, 1/2 cup alfalfa meal, 1/3rd cup rock dust, ,and 1/4th cup mycorrhizae fungi. Blood meal 1/3rd cup . ¾ cup Epson salts. ½ to 1 Cup cup Sweet Lime ( Dolimite). ½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements). **amounts depend on how much base soil your using. I used the following amounts with 6 large bags of the any organic mix ,added all the ingrediants to my compost box, and turn it (mix) everyday. Let cook for atleast 3 to 4 weeks. *Also, keep in mind, during this (cook) time, I'm forever more adding other stuff, such as corn cobs, all my scraps from salads, grass clippings,pine needles, anything that will break down, ever newspaper, and or cardboard, fish, egg shells,coffie grounds, etc. * Note to grower *
The compost is only optional. However, if you do decide to use a compost box, or a bucket. Do not add any meat products, "other then a small fish" here & there. [FONT=arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]
Cascadian said:
Yeah man, I would appreciate that. I'm curious what you put in the mix. My mix could take them through but I like to give them an extra bump every so often. Last batch I added azomite, I think it made a big difference.
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Looks like a really high quality mix there! I only add blood meal, bone meal, azomite, lots of worm castings, epsom salt, some bird guano and/or some organic tomato fertilizer, dolomite lime, and a good dose of perlite to a base of organic soil w/mycorrhizae. I get good results but I think I will include some feather and kelp meal along with diatoms and some coco fiber for starters next time.

Thank You for posting it.
 
~Dankster~420 said:


Hey again.. Sorry it took me a few to get my recipe to you. I couldn't locate it at first. Hope you enjoy.. ;) "Danks Black Gold" . as follows : I start off with any organic soil as a base soil, or how many ever bags of soil you need large bags of high quality Organic potting soil with a coco and mycorrhizae as your base. Then add the following to that. 1 cup of Washed coco fibers, 2 cups alaskan peat moss, 4 cups perlite, 1/2 yucca meal, 1/2 pumice, 1/4th cup diatoms, 1 cup worm castings,1/4th cup feather meal, 1/2 fishmeal, 1/2 cup kelp meal, 1/4th gypsum, 1/4th cup 1/3rd cup soybean meal, 1/2 cup alfalfa meal, 1/3rd cup rock dust, ,and 1/4th cup mycorrhizae fungi. Blood meal 1/3rd cup . ¾ cup Epson salts. ½ to 1 Cup cup Sweet Lime ( Dolimite). ½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements). **amounts depend on how much base soil your using. I used the following amounts with 6 large bags of the any organic mix ,added all the ingrediants to my compost box, and turn it (mix) everyday. Let cook for atleast 3 to 4 weeks. *Also, keep in mind, during this (cook) time, I'm forever more adding other stuff, such as corn cobs, all my scraps from salads, grass clippings,pine needles, anything that will break down, ever newspaper, and or cardboard, fish, egg shells,coffie grounds, etc. * Note to grower *
The compost is only optional. However, if you do decide to use a compost box, or a bucket. Do not add any meat products, "other then a small fish" here & there.
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That's quite a list of ingredients there Dank...might have to mix up some of that mix for outdoors in the garden...:)
 
MOAB is BS. Causes major foxtails the few times I used it. I also think ChurchHaze is correct.

IMO, i ditched all those high NPK bloom "boosters" for Bud XL and Top Shooter and get much better results without having all my leaves turn yellow at week 5.
 
DCobeen said:
sounds good i will have to slowly buy stuff lol. big shopping lists.
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Yeah, I like using my mix in my outdoor ladies, however during summer month I use it on my indoor as well. ;)

Cascadian said:
Looks like a really high quality mix there! I only add blood meal, bone meal, azomite, lots of worm castings, epsom salt, some bird guano and/or some organic tomato fertilizer, dolomite lime, and a good dose of perlite to a base of organic soil w/mycorrhizae. I get good results but I think I will include some feather and kelp meal along with diatoms and some coco fiber for starters next time.

Thank You for posting it.
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Thanks. Yeah all the meals help allot. I might add with my mix I barely have to feed all that much, and if so it's towards the ending of flowering.. :mrgreen:

jointed said:
That's quite a list of ingredients there Dank...might have to mix up some of that mix for outdoors in the garden...:)
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Yeah, but I am telling you bro, it simply kicks some major ass, ladies eat that shit up.. WOOF!! download (21).jpg

Faded329 said:
Do you think P3 will work with the nftg line? I do believe the p3 is simply a fungus.
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Speaking of P3, I still have some.. ;) I may just do that on my next test study.. If I don't have any complaints I may run P3 w/ the NFTG VS the MOAB. WOuld be interesting though considering the results I had while using the P3 by itself.. Had killer results IMO.. ;)

Lucius Vorenus said:
MOAB is BS. Causes major foxtails the few times I used it. I also think ChurchHaze is correct.

IMO, i ditched all those high NPK bloom "boosters" for Bud XL and Top Shooter and get much better results without having all my leaves turn yellow at week 5.
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Well, we will just have to sit back and watch the show to see how it does. ;)
My plans are to start off on a lower ppm reading with the MOAB, then gradually increase the ppm reading during flowering. Hopefully they wont turn all yellow. Which of course IMO yellowing isnt all that bad if towards the end of flowering.. LIKE this :) One of my Dank's Purple Fire.. She had foxtailing, but damn she was HOT!! Kinda looked like she was on fire_flames_effect.png Mid flower DPF Danks Purple Fire.jpg Mid DPF4.jpg End DPF.jpg
 
BenRipped said:
I find it funny how people shit on AN on this forum for overpriced, over exaggerated claims of their products. MoaB and NoTG costs 20% more than AN, and makes 30% more claims than AN does.
Yet AN has a fabulous track record of stellar results. Where's the NoTg trolls on this forum is chuck estevz on vacation today?

Really not one post from anyone saying pissing on the plants is a better way to grow, than to used 10+ products of notg at $80 a qt?
It's like a civil discussion is going on here. WTF can't have that happening.
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I'm right here LMFAO that I am in YOUR HEAD. Worked for AN long? BWHAHAHAHAHAHA!
 
Cascadian said:
@benripped
Come to think of it I have never used AN or even commented on it once. Its the worse attempt at trolling I've ever seen or you quoted the wrong post.
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He just mad that he keeps being made to look like a fool running around waving the AN flag, when we all know AN is for Newbs like Ben.
 
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