Molasses lowers PH

skate4theherb

Well-Known Member
What i have learned about using house hold thing for PH leaves is that baking soda rise PH levels. I don't know about using molasses to lower PH levels.what i would do is search the word molasses an see if there is anyone who knows a lot about using this kind of stuff. then ask them on the profile this seems like the best way to get answers some times.

What i want to know is if you can use these thing for hyrdo??/
 

Grapeman420

Well-Known Member
i have used mollases many times, not once has it ever gave me problems, also i dont check my PH, ive never had major problems so im oretty damn sure my tap water is magnificent... i would DEFINITELY use mollases!
 

dbo24242

New Member
Yea I seriously fucked up a plant with molasses one time, or maybe it was following the label on the foxfarm big bloom that did it.
 

samstevens1

Active Member
Yea I seriously fucked up a plant with molasses one time, or maybe it was following the label on the foxfarm big bloom that did it.
What stage were you using the big bloom in?(veg,flw) because my girl got ruined last time and I used beastie blooms. Granted there were other issues as well why it was a bad grow for me but the connection in brand is interesting
 

dbo24242

New Member
What stage were you using the big bloom in?(veg,flw) because my girl got ruined last time and I used beastie blooms. Granted there were other issues as well why it was a bad grow for me but the connection in brand is interesting
yeah it was in mid flowering so I read the big bloom directions and added a cup in a gallon but I used it on top of other things and just burned the shit out of my plant and also added a lot of molasses which made the pH really low so I had nutrient burn and then deficiency from lockout it was a mess and the plant died like a month early.
 

Butthead08

Well-Known Member
you guys know if beastie bloomz is organic? i have a bottle around here somewhere. today is 6 weeks 1 day flowering, and day three since the first molasses watering. plants are doing great, not much evidence of the molasses helping or hurting the plant. they are def getting realllll frosty!
 

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
It lowers the PH i use an electronic ph tester and have measured the drop.
It never drops it a whole point, but maybe .20 - .40 depending on how much your using more if it RO water like mine.
 

plaguedog

Active Member
Never noticed, I don't ever check ph as growing in a good organic mix, you never need to. I use it from veg to end of flower with no ill effects.
 

Canabuds

Member
I recently had a similar problem as I started using molasses for the first time 4weeks into flower and it is tricky to tell the ph with the liquid test kit as the molasses water solution is quite tinted already.

1 tbsp molasses per gallon of water will lower the ph a bit, but nothing crazy. I think I read that molasses is like 5 ph on some grade school science, but when it is in that kind of concentration with water ph of near 7, it evens out to a pretty decent growing ph. I added a tbsp of PBP bloom to a gallon as well and it looked like it was around a 6.0 or high 5 after it was all mixed.

baking soda is not a great ph up (it will increase ph but bad things will happen; chemically)
 

samstevens1

Active Member
I started using mollasses week 4-5 flowering the frostiness is increasing but not bud size.I'm at week 5-6 and it doesn't seem like they'll be ready by week 6-7. No beastie blooms on this one since whole grow is organic might use it on one to experiment.
 

Mudbone1978

New Member
I used it for 5 years now with subcool super soil recipe and a nutrient e all organic with phenomenal results. Two and a quarter pounds and a half ounce all from one light was my best pull yet using this recipe. Are use all the ingredients that are in subcool super soil in my t. And I use Blackstrap in the team and on just water days.
 
Besides guessing, you do need a PH meter. They’re about $15 but you also need to measure EC which is relevant to your feeding schedule with any plant. Low Ph indicated (usually) heavy ACID content or excess nutes . To Raise PH to an acceptable target level ( 5.5-6.0) in hydro and 6.0-6.5( 7.0) in soil as soil usually holds more nutes and hydro is relatively more easier to maintain bc you can make adjustments faster simply by exchanging and doing a complete flush. Soil doesn’t allow that option, bc of the mud suffocation factor for roots with excess water on soil. Also get. PH chart that tells you what elements of the Nute is taken up at certain PH levels. Knowing this tell u how to correct specific deficiencies and how to identify the SPECIFIC cause of your problem. Someone mentioned “yellow leaves”. Where it’s a sign of disease but triggered by ex: over watering… but that’s likely HIGH PH (or alkaline water, and a lock out of Nutes that would be taken up in the lower range…iron, copper, and Zinc. So it’s not as simple as just “PH.” Monitoring PH has a specific call and action so to speak. Hope this helps whoever is reading. It’s not a contest… it’s a class.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Besides guessing, you do need a PH meter. They’re about $15 but you also need to measure EC which is relevant to your feeding schedule with any plant. Low Ph indicated (usually) heavy ACID content or excess nutes . To Raise PH to an acceptable target level ( 5.5-6.0) in hydro and 6.0-6.5( 7.0) in soil as soil usually holds more nutes and hydro is relatively more easier to maintain bc you can make adjustments faster simply by exchanging and doing a complete flush. Soil doesn’t allow that option, bc of the mud suffocation factor for roots with excess water on soil. Also get. PH chart that tells you what elements of the Nute is taken up at certain PH levels. Knowing this tell u how to correct specific deficiencies and how to identify the SPECIFIC cause of your problem. Someone mentioned “yellow leaves”. Where it’s a sign of disease but triggered by ex: over watering… but that’s likely HIGH PH (or alkaline water, and a lock out of Nutes that would be taken up in the lower range…iron, copper, and Zinc. So it’s not as simple as just “PH.” Monitoring PH has a specific call and action so to speak. Hope this helps whoever is reading. It’s not a contest… it’s a class.
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I recently had a similar problem as I started using molasses for the first time 4weeks into flower and it is tricky to tell the ph with the liquid test kit as the molasses water solution is quite tinted already.

1 tbsp molasses per gallon of water will lower the ph a bit, but nothing crazy. I think I read that molasses is like 5 ph on some grade school science, but when it is in that kind of concentration with water ph of near 7, it evens out to a pretty decent growing ph. I added a tbsp of PBP bloom to a gallon as well and it looked like it was around a 6.0 or high 5 after it was all mixed.

baking soda is not a great ph up (it will increase ph but bad things will happen; chemically)
hey bud… don’t worrry about the color.. trust the ph test. i use molasses and corrhizae that turns he water near black… the ph drops still turn the test water the proper accurate shade. i do account for the additional darkness mentally but it’s accurate on the meter too. (i use both).
Molasses is SUGAR. Or Carbs. They beef up the plant like candy would a fat kid in the proper environment. If you put sugar on dirt, it becomes persisent. If you put it in water (hot) it breaks down, and in hydro it goes straight to the root and most absorbed immediately and if not stays mostly soluble. I think that make all the difference in results. If someone os adding molasses I assume they did the homework and are pretty advanced in growing. I think depending where u are w experience will determine when and how you add grow agents outside the norm bc it becomes a chemistry class at some point and it only takes about a week to annihilate a healthy plant with a sugar rush boo-boo. Hydro growers that use molasses also flush nutes every 2 as a rule of thumb, for buildup prevention. You don’t have to, but it resolves most problems and prevents a ton and helps avoid Nute buildup on any level.
 

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
hey bud… don’t worrry about the color.. trust the ph test. i use molasses and corrhizae that turns he water near black… the ph drops still turn the test water the proper accurate shade. i do account for the additional darkness mentally but it’s accurate on the meter too. (i use both).
Molasses is SUGAR. Or Carbs. They beef up the plant like candy would a fat kid in the proper environment. If you put sugar on dirt, it becomes persisent. If you put it in water (hot) it breaks down, and in hydro it goes straight to the root and most absorbed immediately and if not stays mostly soluble. I think that make all the difference in results. If someone os adding molasses I assume they did the homework and are pretty advanced in growing. I think depending where u are w experience will determine when and how you add grow agents outside the norm bc it becomes a chemistry class at some point and it only takes about a week to annihilate a healthy plant with a sugar rush boo-boo. Hydro growers that use molasses also flush nutes every 2 as a rule of thumb, for buildup prevention. You don’t have to, but it resolves most problems and prevents a ton and helps avoid Nute buildup on any level.
I doubt he will see your comment since he was last on in 2010
Welcome to RIU :weed:
 
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