Molasses

Blitz35 said:

Assuming that is even the issue, why would fixing a magnesium issue get rid of a potassium issue??? It's two different elements that don't co-depend on each other. Fixing a magnesium issue can get rid of a phosphorus issue as the two depend on each other...actually phosphorus depends on magnesium to carry it through the plant, but if you're low on potassium, adding magnesium will not make potassium magically appear!

What does that even mean??? I swear people invent their own science on these sites..this is how so many myths get started! lol

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You seen the pic right? If he fixes the mag problem and get the plant firing on all eight cylinders, with the microbes doing their job most of that will go away. The microbes will make the K appear. Unless the nutes or soil sucks i guess.

How those plants look in general tells me there is a long standing root issue. Might be from over feeding, over watering, lack of microbes. OP probably never used any kelp in the root zone to help the roots take off, might just be poor lighting. Idk only the op knows what happened.

Poor lighting with hot nutes and shitty watering pratices = science.

Frankyc617 said:

No Im using the full dosage

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Bernie420 said:

You seen the pic right? If he fixes the mag problem and get the plant firing on all eight cylinders, with the microbes doing their job most of that will go away. The microbes will make the K appear. Unless the nutes or soil sucks i guess.

How those plants look in general tells me there is a long standing root issue. Might be from over feeding, over watering, lack of microbes. OP probably never used any kelp in the root zone to help the roots take off, might just be poor lighting. Idk only the op knows what happened.

Poor lighting with hot nutes and shitty watering pratices = science.

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Ok..still have no idea why magnesium would 'make' potassium issues go away..again, one has nothing to do with the other. Just because you give a medium magnesium, does not mean that somehow potassium deficiencies will go away as well. If there is a lack of potassium...then potassium is needed..magnesium does not turn into potassium, nor does it help at all to make it 'appear' in the medium. Microbes are not counting on getting magnesium so that they can now make potassium available to the plant. Kelp is not a mandatory supplement for a successful grow.

From the pics it looks like overfeeding causing an imbalance in the medium causing nutrient lockout. 1/4 to 1/2 strength nutes for a week or two. I don't think adding more is going to do any good. Unfortunately the damage has already been done and the plants are flowering. I still think less is better at this point. I'm not always right but I'm rarely wrong.

Blitz35 said:

Ok..still have no idea why magnesium would 'make' potassium issues go away..again, one has nothing to do with the other. Just because you give a medium magnesium, does not mean that somehow potassium deficiencies will go away as well. If there is a lack of potassium...then potassium is needed..magnesium does not turn into potassium, nor does it help at all to make it 'appear' in the medium. Microbes are not counting on getting magnesium so that they can now make potassium available to the plant. Kelp is not a mandatory supplement for a successful grow.

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Correct.
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Lets just fix the mag problem first and see how it goes and lets get some microbes in there to help with that and maybe while their at it they will get some potassium in there as well.


Kelp isnt mandatory but it should be.
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Wait let me fix that.

Kelp isnt mandatory but it should be.if you want a super duper successful grow

Forget molasses on this grow .

Target the magnesium issue ( purple stems and stalk. )
It is critical to correct the issues at this early flower stage , the budsites are “ trying “ to form and set up . If any feed should be done it would be a VEG feed .

During these early weeks Nitrogen is used for stretch and branching. Do not introduce bloom Nutes this early. Once plants are dry again .... mix up a VEG / CalMag feed. Those leaves are fading way too early.

I often wonder how feeding an overfed plant half-strength nutes solves that problem or if clear water is best. Overfed and Overwated are Kings of Lockout.

Budzbuddha said:

Forget molasses on this grow .

Target the magnesium issue ( purple stems and stalk. )
It is critical to correct the issues at this early flower stage , the budsites are “ trying “ to form and set up . If any feed should be done it would be a VEG feed .

During these early weeks Nitrogen is used for stretch and branching. Do not introduce bloom Nutes this early. Once plants are dry again .... mix up a VEG / CalMag feed. Those leaves are fading way too early.

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I’m using advanced nutrients so I should only use the micro and grow don’t use bloom

Frankyc617 said:

I’m using advanced nutrients so I should only use the micro and grow don’t use bloom

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They’re made to use all 3

Hey Frankiec617.It could be several different things.Without knowing the kind of soil and pot you are using,how often your watering them and more info anything would just be a bad guess.If your using living soil like sohum or fox farms you do not need to use any fertilizer if you do not want,and when you do, use only organic just a little, the soil will be full of everything you need a little fert goes a long way.The molasses is rich in both micro-and macro-nutrients and a source of carbs for soil microbes it helps with the growth of beneficial organisms helps with salt build up,insect repellent and a host of other benefits.Just make sure you only use UNSULPHURED molasses.grandmas works well.I use 1 tablespoon per gallon and also use hot water to dissolve in small jar then put in jug.after flowering I use it once a week, near end sometimes a little more depending on the grow.and you will be just fine.But even my directions are dependent on things like how often they need watering and different things as well.Mine get water every day so I will add just a snort of fox farms big bloom in a 2 gallon jug every other watering and then back off on the weekend with it.( a snort is enough to color the water only) 1-2 tablespoon maybe.Best of luck to ya.

old buzzard said:

The molasses is rich in both micro-and macro-nutrients and a source of carbs for soil microbes it helps with the growth of beneficial organisms helps with salt build up,insect repellent and a host of other benefits.

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This is absolute Bull Shit!

Molasses contains little to no Iron, Ca, Mg, Mn, etc, etc, etc! The amounts of actual usable nutrient (Micro or Macro) is so low that it's not even an amount that would be listed on any nutrient label!

Molasses doesn't naturally contain ANY Sulfur! "unsulfured" molasses is molasses that has not been "lightened" or "Bleached" with Sulfur Dioxide.....What happens to sulfur Dioxide when it gets in contact with water? It turns to sulfuric acid....THAT kills plants.

I make several supplement compounds that contain S in the form of sulfates - very good for plants.... These home made compounds have added carbs in them for feeding, or jumping the living bio's a bit.
These carb sources are all complex sugars.... While the sadly lacking amount of carbs in molasses are simple sugars.... I can go farther, and get more of what I want done. By using Dark Brown sugar over molasses any day.

Now then, near me is a major cooking/baking supply house that has high carb (sugar) molasses. Very sweet tasting. I use this in making simple bio teas! The sugars present are simple sugars that are easy for the little baby bio's to more easily digest! This leads to higher living bio counts in my tea... Complex sugars would not work as well, as fast...


So, save your molasses for making AACT bio teas and skip putting it in soil....