elduece
Active Member
Man. That's more concentrated than subcool's recipe.
Mold all over my SuperSoil!!
- Thread starter Endur0xX
- Start date
+1 on that.
That's gonna be waaaay too hot as is. 12.5lbs of amendments in ~7 or so CF?
Wet
Wait a second I said that yesterday. he just repeated what I said. That should be my +1 rep.
Endur0xX
Well-Known Member
sorry what do you mean by too hot? I will plant the plants in 4"x4" little container to start with with a mixture of wormcastings and promix soil without nutrient for the first 2 weeks or so... also I have had mixed answer on whether I should cover the soil or not! thanks for any comments or advices, I wanna succeed so bad this time! Thanks
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm gonna cosign Wet as per usual. You need to dilute that mix by about half at least, even that will still be hot.
South Texas
Well-Known Member
The tarp will stimulate mold. Peat will kill the Microbes that help resist mold by airating the soil. Whole Ground Cornmeal will grow a Fungi that will kill the mold.
elduece
Active Member
I forgot to add that your mix can use another AT LEAST 3.8 cu bale and a half bale of plain mix.
btw what you're seeing isn't mold and it isn't bad either. It's fungal mycelia probably grown from the compost you added.
its endomycorrhizal fungi. your not even close gunslinger
South Texas
Well-Known Member
What did you call Him?
Wolverine97
Well-Known Member
Uhhh... You're both actually correct.
elduece
Active Member
Mycorrhizal fungi is only active when roots are present. Mycorrhizae survives by feeding from the root host exudates in exchange for the nutrients the fungi gathered outside of the rhizosphere. I recommend you read Teeming with Microbes.
Charlie Who?
Active Member
Look....mold is just a growth of one-celled plant life that composts and becomes fertilizer once it'a turned under. Turn it under.
But....one thing I still just dont get is....WHY do new growers mess with soil at all? You can neverr know how much N,P or K is already IN the soil....so how the hell can you possibly know how much to add in nutes?
Im serious...I just dont get it.
HEMPY is the answer. With nothing BUT perlite, you can KNOW exactly what amount of of essential nutriens go into your plants. Plus, it's cheap.
I know some folks say weed tastes better when grown in soil. Whatever. I ask...do ya wanna taste the WEED or the dirt it was grown in?
Switch to Hempy----and kiss yer soil problems goodbye. NO soil = NO soil problems.
CW
Nullis
Moderator
Mold is not one-celled plant life. It's multi-cellular fungi. You can break up the mycelium by mixing it in, but while good conditions persist it will just re-colonize the medium. It will break down, retain and cycle the nutrients in dead organic matter, form humus and contribute to the structure of the soil. In particular fungi are necessary for digesting complex carbohydrates (cellulose, lignin, chitin) and opening materials up for bacterial decay (since bacteria can't penetrate things like fungi can). As fungi actively decay organic matter they release 'wastes' which include plant available nutrients. They also leave behind organic acids and enzymes that continue to break down organic materials and more nutrients are released when fungi is eaten by predators (such as protozoa and nematodes, some micro-arthropods).
It is easy enough to gauge how 'nutritious' a medium is once you know a little bit about organic amendments and just what comprises your 'soil' or soil-less mix. Potting soil isn't 'dirt', and most brands don't come very close to being 'soil', either, which is an important consideration. A base potting soil like the one the OP describes is really just a bare soil-less mix: sphagnum peat, perlite, and lime... not much for macro-nutrients and no humus. Humus is important for various reasons as it retains nutrients (higher CEC than peat), imparts biological activity, and aids in nutrients absorption (humic acids are organic chelates).
One of the very reasons for growing organically in soil (or soil-less mix) is to drastically reduce how much the plant depends on you to provide for it, including nutrients. You don't worry about exactly how much nitrogen, phosphorous, or potassium or any other nutrient is going in because you're really nourishing the soil, not the plant itself (not to mention that plants need many more nutrients than NPK). Instead we apply various organic amendments, many of which contain a very broad spectrum of nutrients\trace elements, and let microbes take care of the rest. The plant controls the microbes by producing\releasing exudates thru its roots, into the rhizosphere, in order to stimulate and cater to certain kinds of microbes capable of providing\assisting the plant with specific things that it needs (including certain nutrients). The various compounds plant roots exude include carbohydrates and amino acids.
Perlite doesn't retain any nutrients whatsoever (no CEC), it is totally inert and seems much less conducive to booming microbial activity, which is the foundation of good organics. The rest of what you say makes zero sense; otherwise cannabis grown in just perlite would taste like perlite. Remember, though, that potting soil simply isn't dirt. However, even cannabis grown outdoors in soil shouldn't end up tasting like dirt. Cannabis grown in healthy living organic soil may very well taste better because of the full spectrum of nutrients and trace elements it should contain, and the diversity or organisms it has providing for it, all of which contribute to the plant growing to its full genetic potential. Such a living soil shouldn't lend to any problems at all
bodyshop54
Active Member
CW I have grown in Rockwool, leca (hydroton),foxfarm ocean forest,bubble buckets(dwc) using advanced a&b bloom (weeks 1-6) great white shark (veg weekly untill 2nd wk of bloom) with bushmaster,gravity,big bud.i have grown the white rhino always so its been my test for every condition and have a very firm grasp on what it likes. the best most tasty batches were in pro mix it didnt take as much nutrients to keep the fan leaves straight out and happy like in hydro where i peak at 1800 ppm. in the promix,and fox farm you can use molasses for your carb where as all other res based hydro systems that tends to brew a super foam froth. my bush master and gravity seem to be more effective and i can simply top dress with guano's and castings with no fear of burning them.Indoor organic grown Bud is the best of both worlds.IMHO the most Pleasant Terpene profiles come through in supersoils and tlo and real genetics flourish in them. Endurox: stick with a tried and true super soil and remember less can be more listen to these guys on cutting that soil and think about using subcools super soil recipe its tried and true yearly refined and dank inclined to help you grow this magical KIND