moving grow from basement to building

I am moving my grow from my basement (approx 500sf) to a building with 10' ceilings and triple the space. I am not necessarily increasing plant numbers but just want more room to work/move around.

My questions are I want to be completely air tight sealed and run co2 as well. I plan to frame out the veg and flower rooms inside the building (so build rooms (ceiling included) to the sizes I need/want. What is the absolute best way and materials to make sure its completely air tight sealed. Another question is how often do I need to exchange air and when doing so how do I make the intake and exhaust air tight when not in use so no smell/co2 leak out? I will use a scrubber when running fans for air exchange.

thanks all

linky said:

I am moving my grow from my basement (approx 500sf) to a building with 10' ceilings and triple the space. I am not necessarily increasing plant numbers but just want more room to work/move around.

My questions are I want to be completely air tight sealed and run co2 as well. I plan to frame out the veg and flower rooms inside the building (so build rooms (ceiling included) to the sizes I need/want. What is the absolute best way and materials to make sure its completely air tight sealed. Another question is how often do I need to exchange air and when doing so how do I make the intake and exhaust air tight when not in use so no smell/co2 leak out? I will use a scrubber when running fans for air exchange.

thanks all

Click to expand...

ohhh fun and simple

the answer is u frame out the area then use 6mil thick 20x100 poly wrap roll (in paint section of home depot drop cloth)

u have to use the stuff in one sheet to wrap the walls then u seal it off with tape to the wall and floor(if it is a good concrete floor if not lay a 2nd sheet down for the floor) ....then u just use little caulk and tape over the staple holes u made putting it up ........u just made a huge tub to hold the co2 .....sealing off the top is not needed as Co2 pools up

it is a simple job .....u can leave it like that or u can put up dry wall......just make sure u caulk the nail holes ....the floor u can lay in a floating wood floor on top of plastic
the door is the trick part u need to buy a sealed door/doorway and install it allowing u to open and go in shut and hold seal

rem u are going to need own breakers for the mini split used to cool the air in the room while sealed ...........the wiring and piping into the room is simple just rem to go high that way sealing off not needed as the lvl it has cut into is were the oxygen is from the plants .........if u do a drain out that is going to need sealing (spray foam is your friend for sealing but it is a bitch to clean up for returning rental area back in same way )

justugh said:

ohhh fun and simple

the answer is u frame out the area then use 6mil thick 20x100 poly wrap roll (in paint section of home depot drop cloth)

u have to use the stuff in one sheet to wrap the walls then u seal it off with tape to the wall and floor(if it is a good concrete floor if not lay a 2nd sheet down for the floor) ....then u just use little caulk and tape over the staple holes u made putting it up ........u just made a huge tub to hold the co2 .....sealing off the top is not needed as Co2 pools up

it is a simple job .....u can leave it like that or u can put up dry wall......just make sure u caulk the nail holes ....the floor u can lay in a floating wood floor on top of plastic
the door is the trick part u need to buy a sealed door/doorway and install it allowing u to open and go in shut and hold seal

rem u are going to need own breakers for the mini split used to cool the air in the room while sealed ...........the wiring and piping into the room is simple just rem to go high that way sealing off not needed as the lvl it has cut into is were the oxygen is from the plants .........if u do a drain out that is going to need sealing (spray foam is your friend for sealing but it is a bitch to clean up for returning rental area back in same way )

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Another reason I want it sealed up is to hold in odor as well, not only the co2. I have central air for cooling so should be fine in that department, as well has a large dehumidifier. I imagine I need to cycle the air at least once a day, to remove all air and bring in new correct?

linky said:

Thanks for the info. Another reason I want it sealed up is to hold in odor as well, not only the co2. I have central air for cooling so should be fine in that department, as well has a large dehumidifier. I imagine I need to cycle the air at least once a day, to remove all air and bring in new correct?

Click to expand...

a sealed room is just that

u do not need to do anything other then have a cooling unit in there like a mini split to handle the heat made by lights and Co2 burners
u might need to have a dehumidifer in the area too as Co2 burning makins RH go up ( what i was told from a trusted person) ......alot of them have a drain hose in the back so can set up leave on lvl and when it kicks on it feeds out so no bucket empting )

u are going to need a controllers.....several or one with all
photo controller....tell when lights are on will over ride the Co2 from kicking on during night time
Co2 monitior controler for burner....tells the burners to kick on and off when at lvl (the senor should be hung at bud lvl as that is where u want the 1500ppm lvl)
light timers
AC with have a senor for it u just set forget
dehumidifer set to lvl forget

no u do not need to do anything other then keep Co2 lvls up during light and at night let the oxygen lvl build up set co2 override for 1 hour before dark letting oxygen build for night time

as for smell controll i live next door to a state trooper i can tell u how to effectivly hide it from a cop with 2 teen kids (cop knows the smell and his kids are teens so they do too) illegal state

justugh said:

a sealed room is just that

u do not need to do anything other then have a cooling unit in there like a mini split to handle the heat made by lights and Co2 burners
u might need to have a dehumidifer in the area too as Co2 burning makins RH go up ( what i was told from a trusted person) ......alot of them have a drain hose in the back so can set up leave on lvl and when it kicks on it feeds out so no bucket empting )

u are going to need a controllers.....several or one with all
photo controller....tell when lights are on will over ride the Co2 from kicking on during night time
Co2 monitior controler for burner....tells the burners to kick on and off when at lvl (the senor should be hung at bud lvl as that is where u want the 1500ppm lvl)
light timers
AC with have a senor for it u just set forget
dehumidifer set to lvl forget

no u do not need to do anything other then keep Co2 lvls up during light and at night let the oxygen lvl build up set co2 override for 1 hour before dark letting oxygen build for night time

as for smell controll i live next door to a state trooper i can tell u how to effectivly hide it from a cop with 2 teen kids (cop knows the smell and his kids are teens so they do too) illegal state

Click to expand...

Okay, I figured the oxygen level would get low in there over time or just be a good idea to turn the air over once a day or something, maybe after lights out.. have an exhaust fan run for 15 minutes or something through a scrubber. I will be using a co2 controller with light sensor and tank's.. doubt I will use a burner. I have a thermostat for the ac and also have a line out the back of the dehumidifier to a drain so do not need to empty it. I live in a legal state, just don't want/need the attention, many people still hate the idea of growing weed.

Personally I frame it out with 2x4, put 2 mill plastic up then install drywall over that. Unless you need insulation, which I usually do, then one side is enough and then you can mount to the 2x4 on the opposite side whichever is most beneficial to have 2x4 exposed. Otherwise you might want to insulate. All in all it really isn't that expensive and it is a ton better than plastic in my experiences.

linky said:

Okay, I figured the oxygen level would get low in there over time or just be a good idea to turn the air over once a day or something, maybe after lights out.. have an exhaust fan run for 15 minutes or something through a scrubber. I will be using a co2 controller with light sensor and tank's.. doubt I will use a burner. I have a thermostat for the ac and also have a line out the back of the dehumidifier to a drain so do not need to empty it. I live in a legal state, just don't want/need the attention, many people still hate the idea of growing weed.

Click to expand...

do not go tanks
20 lbs u can buy for 100 plus but the 50 lb tanks are like 300 400 bucks to buy
then they need to be Dot oked for your area then u need to find a place to fill them or exchange them .........a tank is not worth it with the money and time it takes to get refill put back in u need to have 2 tanks ready to use and 1 tank for refill every 2 weeks u will be filling a 50 lb tank

Co2 burner is a propain or natural gas ..........u can get one large tank and have it filled every 3 months or tie into lines already built into area
but the math for a larger area like u have tanks do not work out water cooled Co2 burner does in 2 grows it will justify cost paying for itself

run the numbers
https://www.hydroponics.net/learn/co2_calculator.php

for your area burners are the best choice for the amount of time u can get on a tank of gas

justugh said:

do not go tanks
20 lbs u can buy for 100 plus but the 50 lb tanks are like 300 400 bucks to buy
then they need to be Dot oked for your area then u need to find a place to fill them or exchange them .........a tank is not worth it with the money and time it takes to get refill put back in u need to have 2 tanks ready to use and 1 tank for refill every 2 weeks u will be filling a 50 lb tank

Co2 burner is a propain or natural gas ..........u can get one large tank and have it filled every 3 months or tie into lines already built into area
but the math for a larger area like u have tanks do not work out water cooled Co2 burner does in 2 grows it will justify cost paying for itself

run the numbers
https://www.hydroponics.net/learn/co2_calculator.php

for your area burners are the best choice for the amount of time u can get on a tank of gas

Click to expand...

Thanks for that calculator, helps a lot with the math.

Friction1957 said:

Thanks for that calculator, helps a lot with the math.

Click to expand...

np

justugh said:

a sealed room is just that

u do not need to do anything other then have a cooling unit in there like a mini split to handle the heat made by lights and Co2 burners
u might need to have a dehumidifer in the area too as Co2 burning makins RH go up ( what i was told from a trusted person) ......alot of them have a drain hose in the back so can set up leave on lvl and when it kicks on it feeds out so no bucket empting )

u are going to need a controllers.....several or one with all
photo controller....tell when lights are on will over ride the Co2 from kicking on during night time
Co2 monitior controler for burner....tells the burners to kick on and off when at lvl (the senor should be hung at bud lvl as that is where u want the 1500ppm lvl)
light timers
AC with have a senor for it u just set forget
dehumidifer set to lvl forget

no u do not need to do anything other then keep Co2 lvls up during light and at night let the oxygen lvl build up set co2 override for 1 hour before dark letting oxygen build for night time

as for smell controll i live next door to a state trooper i can tell u how to effectivly hide it from a cop with 2 teen kids (cop knows the smell and his kids are teens so they do too) illegal state

Click to expand...

Hey Justugh,

Can you explain how A/C works?
A split system recycles the air in your room?
So it is still a sealed room?

I'm not sure how the A/C actually works.
Never used one.
But am considering it for my new set up.
I thinks it's pretty much mandatory.
Lol

The actual unit ( the motor outside the grow op ). What is that pumping out via its fan?

Indefinately
" Let there be Green in 2016 "

Indefinately said:

Hey Justugh,

Can you explain how A/C works?
A split system recycles the air in your room?
So it is still a sealed room?

I'm not sure how the A/C actually works.
Never used one.
But am considering it for my new set up.
I thinks it's pretty much mandatory.
Lol

The actual unit ( the motor outside the grow op ). What is that pumping out via its fan?

Indefinately
" Let there be Green in 2016 "

Click to expand...

all AC cycle the air in the room ......a mini split is 100% sealed a window ac is like 90% sealed (meaning the window ac allows little air to interchange bulk of it is inside air)
here is a reg window shaker
https://air-conditioning-hvac.knoji.com/how-to-tune-up-your-window-air-conditioner/



this video will explain it all to u

the compress is outside like in the video .........the main thing with a AC is it needs it own breaker ........the stronger the system is the higher the amps u will need so before u place it in u need to have a open 30 amp break and it wired to where the compressor is going

good news is once u are done and want to move later u can take the system with u not hard to break it down ..........but installing it u will need a HAVC person the coolant lines needs to be vacuum purged out before u release the freeon gas into system

justugh said:

all AC cycle the air in the room ......a mini split is 100% sealed a window ac is like 90% sealed (meaning the window ac allows little air to interchange bulk of it is inside air)
here is a reg window shaker
https://air-conditioning-hvac.knoji.com/how-to-tune-up-your-window-air-conditioner/



this video will explain it all to u

the compress is outside like in the video .........the main thing with a AC is it needs it own breaker ........the stronger the system is the higher the amps u will need so before u place it in u need to have a open 30 amp break and it wired to where the compressor is going

good news is once u are done and want to move later u can take the system with u not hard to break it down ..........but installing it u will need a HAVC person the coolant lines needs to be vacuum purged out before u release the freeon gas into system

Click to expand...

Thanks bud
/

I just did this exact thing last nov. Moved from home to a commercial location. It may not be the best but it sure works for me.

Room1
I framed out a 20x20 room. Took 12x20x9' for my flower room
100% sealed
9 - 1k lights
Co2 w/ controller
2 dehumidifers (need 1 more)
2 air cleaners
8 - wall mounted fans
1 fan that sits on the floor moving Co2
2 - 3 ton mini splits
NC-15 pot size
Built room 16" on center used insulation on ceiling walls and floor.
Tall boy for filtering water (commercial water where I am is horrible)

I took 8x10 right off my sealed room and made a sealed dry / trimming room.

The last 8x10 I made a work room. It also catches any smell from opening my main flower room door.

My Co2 tanks last 10 days. My room hold Co2 very well. Temps are always 84 with lights on and 68 lights off. Humidity holds at 50%

I run perpetual and put 3 plants in every other week. With the amount of light I use I getting 1 to 1 3/4 lb plants.

The smell never goes outside your room if it's properly sealed. You'll have positive pressure from your flower room. So do your very best to seal it. I used a bathroom wall type material for my walls and ceilings and a linoleum floor. I might have gone over board for the walls but if I used plastic I would have ripped it. My walls are like a whiteboard type material.

Hope this info helped a bit.

I use 6mm sheating and gluespray. It's for car headliners. Also liquid nail. Start on cieling, make it solid, any parts that have to come together get spray can glue. Then liquid nail it to your framing. Also clamps or tumbtacks for when you first start.goodluck