Mustache Leaf
- Thread starter silence420
- Start date
dtl420
Well-Known Member
This isn't the place to post plant problems on RIU, post them to marijuana plant problems.
First things first, when you post pics of plant problems, do it in a more natural light.. It is impossible to see the actual color of the leaf when there's a blurple light shining on it. Flip your grow light of and use your flash, or do what I do and keep a lamp in there. Every so often flip the lamp on and the grow light off and check on them in the whiter light, you'll better see any early signs of deficiencies or nutrient burn or anything else you should be alarmed about. Often times problems go unnoticed until they become real issues because it's hard to see things like slight chlorosis under grow light lighting.
Now as for the issue at hand, we need more info such as; what the plant is in, have you fed it already, have you left water on the leafs under the grow light, ect.. I've seen a lot of seedlings with some wild leaf mutations early on, things that the plant typically grows out of.
If you've began feeding already, stop. This could potentially be nitrogen toxicity. Typically, you don't need to start feeding until a week or 2 in. The first set of leafs to immerge from the cannabis plant, and most other plants, are the cotyledons (the round leafs). They are like bags full of baby plant food left by the plants mother in order to give the plant the nutrients it needs to develop a root system and a set or 2 of true leafs. Don't feed until you notice these cotyledons begin to discolor and whither (under the light of your handy dandy lamp). This means he or she has run out of reserves and now has a root system capable of feeding itself.
Hopefully that helps some. But if you want more input on the topic I would post this thread in the marijuana plant problems section.
First things first, when you post pics of plant problems, do it in a more natural light.. It is impossible to see the actual color of the leaf when there's a blurple light shining on it. Flip your grow light of and use your flash, or do what I do and keep a lamp in there. Every so often flip the lamp on and the grow light off and check on them in the whiter light, you'll better see any early signs of deficiencies or nutrient burn or anything else you should be alarmed about. Often times problems go unnoticed until they become real issues because it's hard to see things like slight chlorosis under grow light lighting.
Now as for the issue at hand, we need more info such as; what the plant is in, have you fed it already, have you left water on the leafs under the grow light, ect.. I've seen a lot of seedlings with some wild leaf mutations early on, things that the plant typically grows out of.
If you've began feeding already, stop. This could potentially be nitrogen toxicity. Typically, you don't need to start feeding until a week or 2 in. The first set of leafs to immerge from the cannabis plant, and most other plants, are the cotyledons (the round leafs). They are like bags full of baby plant food left by the plants mother in order to give the plant the nutrients it needs to develop a root system and a set or 2 of true leafs. Don't feed until you notice these cotyledons begin to discolor and whither (under the light of your handy dandy lamp). This means he or she has run out of reserves and now has a root system capable of feeding itself.
Hopefully that helps some. But if you want more input on the topic I would post this thread in the marijuana plant problems section.
silence420
New Member
Thanks man. Yes it’s new plant the stem is super long then come the coyts then another super long stem then these weird two leafs look like a mustache. Color is dark dark green. It’s in organic soil. I haven’t begun to really feed it yet just a little water. Never seen one with a super long stem like that. I had to use a straw to help support it.
dtl420
Well-Known Member
Yea, some are leggier than others naturally. It's a real pain in the ass when you veg with t5 and you try to keep the light just a few inches off all the seedlings then you get one that decides it wants to keep stretching into the light while all the others are doing what you want them to. You can just bury the stem up to the bottom set of leafs when you transplant.
You might still be running into nitrogen toxicity issues even/especially in organics. What kind of soil are you using, and did you mix any amendments into it?
When you start seeds its best to use a seed starting mix or make your own. It should be inert such as coco coir or peat moss (something that won't break down and holds a lot of moisture), with some but not too much perlite for aeration, and if you have some vermiculite handy it goes nicely in seed mixes to hold moisture so your seedling won't dry out.
By the looks of it your using LEDs? How far off the leafs are your lights?
You might still be running into nitrogen toxicity issues even/especially in organics. What kind of soil are you using, and did you mix any amendments into it?
When you start seeds its best to use a seed starting mix or make your own. It should be inert such as coco coir or peat moss (something that won't break down and holds a lot of moisture), with some but not too much perlite for aeration, and if you have some vermiculite handy it goes nicely in seed mixes to hold moisture so your seedling won't dry out.
By the looks of it your using LEDs? How far off the leafs are your lights?
chemphlegm
Well-Known Member
yes, there is a shortage of usable light, plants will stretch for light this way before they tip and die if not found.
temps/and rh need control, and you supposed to water once, all at once, let drain, and dont water again until the cup is light and dry, before the plant wilts of course.
temps/and rh need control, and you supposed to water once, all at once, let drain, and dont water again until the cup is light and dry, before the plant wilts of course.
dtl420
Well-Known Member
Forgot to finish my point with seed starter mixes.. The thing I like the most about using them is knowing when the plant is starting to get hungry. In a proper organic soil this is not super important because the plant will transition comfortably from feeding off the cotyledons to feeding off the soil. When this happens it may be a very long time before the cotyledons whither.
silence420
New Member
This is the first time I have used LEDS. I have them 15 cm off the plant tops. I been told 18-20 cm is better as the LEDs get hotter and can sunburn them causing them to look like nutrient burns. Planning on adding some perlite. I wish I had started with coco and perlite. But live and learn huh lol.
dtl420
Well-Known Member
At this point I'd just wait until the transplant. You'll do more harm than good if you try to mix perlite in there now, it'll damage the root system and potentially kill the seedling at that age. Dark green foliage and leaf curl are both signs of too much nitrogen. Luckily, nitrogen is extremely water soluble, so try giving it a decent drink of straight water (enough to provide quite a bit of runoff) and flush some of the excess nitrogen out of there.
We all learn from our mistakes. I could probably just about write a book just on what not to do.. But that's what separates the good growers from the bad ones, you have to know what you did wrong, why you did it, why it was wrong, and never make the same mistake again. Don't be too hard on yourself, organics (when not done properly) can be really difficult. With organics you have the least amount of control out of all the methods of growing. It all starts with a good foundation of sweet sweet earth, but if you accidently dumped too much blood meal in there (or too much of anything) you'll be chasing your tail trying to keep it in check. The best advise I've had in organics is to grow good soil and the plant will follow. And use compost teas, your dirt will love you for it (and your plant will love your dirt for it).
In my grow room right now I have a usda organic white rhino next to a dwc white rhino and a white lavender in coco, I call the organic rhino goliath.....
We all learn from our mistakes. I could probably just about write a book just on what not to do.. But that's what separates the good growers from the bad ones, you have to know what you did wrong, why you did it, why it was wrong, and never make the same mistake again. Don't be too hard on yourself, organics (when not done properly) can be really difficult. With organics you have the least amount of control out of all the methods of growing. It all starts with a good foundation of sweet sweet earth, but if you accidently dumped too much blood meal in there (or too much of anything) you'll be chasing your tail trying to keep it in check. The best advise I've had in organics is to grow good soil and the plant will follow. And use compost teas, your dirt will love you for it (and your plant will love your dirt for it).
In my grow room right now I have a usda organic white rhino next to a dwc white rhino and a white lavender in coco, I call the organic rhino goliath.....
silence420
New Member
dtl420
Well-Known Member
Not a problem! I am one of 2 people I know who grow, so I don't get to share my knowledge and experiences a lot. Turns out people get really bored when you talk their ear off about growing weed if they don't grow. lol.
This is my first run of both of these strains, I'm pretty stoked. My personal favorite is cherry pie, if you ever get a chance to grow it, do it. It has the best flavor and aroma, and it LOVES being grown indoors. Every cherry pie I've grown so far has been a bush! Potency wise, I like Colorado Thunder Fuck from @RM3 but nothing beats the smell and taste of the cherry pie.
This is my first run of both of these strains, I'm pretty stoked. My personal favorite is cherry pie, if you ever get a chance to grow it, do it. It has the best flavor and aroma, and it LOVES being grown indoors. Every cherry pie I've grown so far has been a bush! Potency wise, I like Colorado Thunder Fuck from @RM3 but nothing beats the smell and taste of the cherry pie.