My 1st grow . Autoflowering
- Thread starter brassneck
- Start date
Masswhole
Well-Known Member
Looking good! Yes you can add mollases with the bio-bloom. about 1 tablespoon a gallon.
brassneck
Active Member
the curling and yellowing started b4 ive gave any nutes ??
they wer about 15 inchs from light with a fan on them constantly , the temp then was 29c at grow tips , ther now 24inchs and 25c . seems to be gettin worse tho . a bit concerned nw
brassneck
Active Member
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i ordered another 5 seeds last week of the same variety that im already growin . they arrived promptly from attitude seeds . the problem is every one has failed to germinate , except the free ufo la women . i germinated in the same way as the original 3 but no gud . should i contact attitude or just put it dwn to experience .
i ordered another 5 seeds last week of the same variety that im already growin . they arrived promptly from attitude seeds . the problem is every one has failed to germinate , except the free ufo la women . i germinated in the same way as the original 3 but no gud . should i contact attitude or just put it dwn to experience .
brassneck
Active Member
day 28 pics . as u can see im still concerned about the yellowing of leaves and general light green colour of plants . ive been feeding at 1/4 strenght nutes and molasses . bud sites seem plentiful at least 6/7 buds on each plant . av a look and tell me wot u think ...
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Nunotmp
Active Member
And there is also a sticky to help with plant problems your should read threw it for some help if you cant get much advice
Here is a link
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/1469-marijuana-plant-problems-cures.html
Here is a link
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/1469-marijuana-plant-problems-cures.html
Masswhole
Well-Known Member
The issue is you used potting mix with no nutrients at all. If you had started with something like Fox Farm ocean Forest, There would have been a nice balance to keep it going for 30 days or so. With autoflowers, they tend not to like too much nitrogen but needs is to get going. That is why I like good soil mix, by the time it needs nutes 30 days later, autoflowers are ready to go right into a bloom nute with a very low nitrogen maybe 1-4-4. Did the nutes you added have nitrogen? What is the NPK?
starhawk2888
Member
how are they looking now? I'm considering some of the same seeds myself
brassneck
Active Member
elo ther , sorry ive been very busy lately i will update journal later on .
they are lookin fat as fxxk
brassneck
Active Member
hello people ,firstly sorry i have not updated had connection probs .
im now at week 8 of a 2 month cycle
i will post pics , do u think this is done ???
my friend said he thinks it is ?
i have no magnifier , the smaller one on right looks a lot more advanced than others
should i start to flush ?
to be honest i dryed a small 3g bud , i smoked it nice smooth smoke ,made my eyes bleed , not bad
im now at week 8 of a 2 month cycle
i will post pics , do u think this is done ???
my friend said he thinks it is ?
i have no magnifier , the smaller one on right looks a lot more advanced than others
should i start to flush ?
to be honest i dryed a small 3g bud , i smoked it nice smooth smoke ,made my eyes bleed , not bad
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AfrikanTZ3
Member
Attitude Seedbank has a really good variety of Autoflowering strains. Always get mine on time.
AfrikanTZ3
Member
i want to give you some advice i have alot of experience with autoflowering strains. Just for future reference here are sum tips:
First 2 weeks
-Use a MH Light if possible, at least 400W for the first 2 weeks because you want the most vigorous growth in the seedling/veg stage of the plant, and MH provides the best spectrum for autoflowers to grow foliage rapidly and it will increase your female/male ratios if using regular seeds. My fav bulb for the first 2 weeks is the Ushio 600W HI-Lux Gro Lamp
-Light cycle is strict 18/6 for the first 2 weeks and light is hung at leat 4 feet off plant canopy. Seedlings don't need that much light to grow so 4ft is good when running a hot MH. I like the 6hr off dark period because instantly the next morning i know the plants have grown a better root system and overall they look much healthier. I make sure the room is at 25 Degrees Celcius and 60-70% humidity.
-I used Promix-HP with Mycorise in 2Gallon Gro Bags, i don't transplant because i think Auto-Flowering strains don't have enough time in their life cycle to recover from transplanting without losing yield and vigor. I use 2G because it gives more than enough space for plants to grow a sufficient root system, and the mycorise helps the plant explode in growth while reducing the amount of nutes used.
-I use Advanced Nutrients for my Auto-Flowering strains, for the first week i foliar feed with a light solution of B-52 and rain water. Then the second week i give a half strength feeding of Sensi Grow A&B (Base nutes + micros), B-52 (Powerful B-Vitamin + kelp formula, Bud Candy (For quick carbs & amino acids + vitamins), Bud Ignitor (To initiate the blooming phase quicker), Mother Earth Tea Grow (Organic additive nute for phytochemicals + cytokinins), Tarantula (beneficial bacteria which works synergically with the mycorise to explode root and plant growth by providing powerful growth hormones while increasing nutrient uptake). I feed the Grow A&B solution only during this week to provide the plant with a good nitrogen source. I also give a light cycle of distilled water before starting the bloom cycle nutes, this ensures no lockout of nutrients to the plant and reduces residues. What i love about Promix is that i can pick up my 2G gro bag and if it feels light then i know it's time to water the plant, when Promix is wet it is a lot heavier so it's easy to tell when it is dry because it is really light. Letting it dry also increases root size really quickly because roots "search" for water and nutrients.
-Usually by the second week i see the males and remove them from the room, usually you will see that the males grow weirdly and sort of look stunted, but just to make sure check for balls...lol.
Weeks 3-7
-Usually by this time i already see the pistils on the females, and this means it is time to change the type of bulb to initiate a full flowering response. For this stage i use the Osram Plantastar 600W HPS because it provides a good mix of spectrum while providing a good amount of PAR watts.
-I prefer changing the light cycle to 20/4 at this time because Auto-Flowering strains thrive on more light so an extra 2 hrs in this stage can mean an extra 1-2 ounces in the end. The 4hr dark period still provides a good rest time for plants to grow their roots and just relax.
-I use half strength nutes always because i have alot of nutes which i use in combination to make the best mix. For flowering i use only the best, Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur. The reason why i love this 2 part nutes is that is pushes the plants flowering sites past their genetic potential by using poly-amino alcohols to expand and fill the buds while providing a wide array of base and micro nutrients in chelated forms. In combination to the Conno, i use Bud Candy, Bud Factor X, Kushie Kush (for Kush Strains), Big Bud for all other strains, Sensizym, F1 Fulvic Acid, B-52, Mother Earth Tea Bloom. I find that this combination works best for all my plants even the ones that are not auto-flowering. I think the most powerful additive i use is the Bud Factor X, truly one of kind because it increases the plants immune functions which in turn makes the plant produce more THC through resin glands, this is important in terms of potency because you want your buds to be the bombest...lol...when u use the X and check your trichomes you will be amazed for yourself
-For flushing i use Final Phase or DNF Clear, it basically does the same thing it clears the plants of all residues by absorbing them and flushing through the plant. I Flush at least 2 times with this solution then i use distilled water for the last flush to ensure a really good clean taste. I then leave the plant for a few days with no watering, and i see the yellowing of the leaves. When i see three quarter amber trichomes i cut it down. This way i get 75% body + 25% head high.
Yield
Auto-Flowering strains thrive under optimum conditions and this translates into big yields. Optimum conditions to me is 25 Degrees Celcius with a Humidity of 40% during flowering. Airflow is also very important when it comes to yield, fresh air contains a good amount of carbon and plants thrive under it, just look at the yield of outdoor plants and you will understand why. Under optimum conditions i get an average of 80grams DRY for the strains i grow, the Lowlife AutoAK47 & Joint Doctor's Diesel Ryder are the best in my opinion in terms of vigor, potency, yield and overall quality.
First 2 weeks
-Use a MH Light if possible, at least 400W for the first 2 weeks because you want the most vigorous growth in the seedling/veg stage of the plant, and MH provides the best spectrum for autoflowers to grow foliage rapidly and it will increase your female/male ratios if using regular seeds. My fav bulb for the first 2 weeks is the Ushio 600W HI-Lux Gro Lamp
-Light cycle is strict 18/6 for the first 2 weeks and light is hung at leat 4 feet off plant canopy. Seedlings don't need that much light to grow so 4ft is good when running a hot MH. I like the 6hr off dark period because instantly the next morning i know the plants have grown a better root system and overall they look much healthier. I make sure the room is at 25 Degrees Celcius and 60-70% humidity.
-I used Promix-HP with Mycorise in 2Gallon Gro Bags, i don't transplant because i think Auto-Flowering strains don't have enough time in their life cycle to recover from transplanting without losing yield and vigor. I use 2G because it gives more than enough space for plants to grow a sufficient root system, and the mycorise helps the plant explode in growth while reducing the amount of nutes used.
-I use Advanced Nutrients for my Auto-Flowering strains, for the first week i foliar feed with a light solution of B-52 and rain water. Then the second week i give a half strength feeding of Sensi Grow A&B (Base nutes + micros), B-52 (Powerful B-Vitamin + kelp formula, Bud Candy (For quick carbs & amino acids + vitamins), Bud Ignitor (To initiate the blooming phase quicker), Mother Earth Tea Grow (Organic additive nute for phytochemicals + cytokinins), Tarantula (beneficial bacteria which works synergically with the mycorise to explode root and plant growth by providing powerful growth hormones while increasing nutrient uptake). I feed the Grow A&B solution only during this week to provide the plant with a good nitrogen source. I also give a light cycle of distilled water before starting the bloom cycle nutes, this ensures no lockout of nutrients to the plant and reduces residues. What i love about Promix is that i can pick up my 2G gro bag and if it feels light then i know it's time to water the plant, when Promix is wet it is a lot heavier so it's easy to tell when it is dry because it is really light. Letting it dry also increases root size really quickly because roots "search" for water and nutrients.
-Usually by the second week i see the males and remove them from the room, usually you will see that the males grow weirdly and sort of look stunted, but just to make sure check for balls...lol.
Weeks 3-7
-Usually by this time i already see the pistils on the females, and this means it is time to change the type of bulb to initiate a full flowering response. For this stage i use the Osram Plantastar 600W HPS because it provides a good mix of spectrum while providing a good amount of PAR watts.
-I prefer changing the light cycle to 20/4 at this time because Auto-Flowering strains thrive on more light so an extra 2 hrs in this stage can mean an extra 1-2 ounces in the end. The 4hr dark period still provides a good rest time for plants to grow their roots and just relax.
-I use half strength nutes always because i have alot of nutes which i use in combination to make the best mix. For flowering i use only the best, Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur. The reason why i love this 2 part nutes is that is pushes the plants flowering sites past their genetic potential by using poly-amino alcohols to expand and fill the buds while providing a wide array of base and micro nutrients in chelated forms. In combination to the Conno, i use Bud Candy, Bud Factor X, Kushie Kush (for Kush Strains), Big Bud for all other strains, Sensizym, F1 Fulvic Acid, B-52, Mother Earth Tea Bloom. I find that this combination works best for all my plants even the ones that are not auto-flowering. I think the most powerful additive i use is the Bud Factor X, truly one of kind because it increases the plants immune functions which in turn makes the plant produce more THC through resin glands, this is important in terms of potency because you want your buds to be the bombest...lol...when u use the X and check your trichomes you will be amazed for yourself
-For flushing i use Final Phase or DNF Clear, it basically does the same thing it clears the plants of all residues by absorbing them and flushing through the plant. I Flush at least 2 times with this solution then i use distilled water for the last flush to ensure a really good clean taste. I then leave the plant for a few days with no watering, and i see the yellowing of the leaves. When i see three quarter amber trichomes i cut it down. This way i get 75% body + 25% head high.
Yield
Auto-Flowering strains thrive under optimum conditions and this translates into big yields. Optimum conditions to me is 25 Degrees Celcius with a Humidity of 40% during flowering. Airflow is also very important when it comes to yield, fresh air contains a good amount of carbon and plants thrive under it, just look at the yield of outdoor plants and you will understand why. Under optimum conditions i get an average of 80grams DRY for the strains i grow, the Lowlife AutoAK47 & Joint Doctor's Diesel Ryder are the best in my opinion in terms of vigor, potency, yield and overall quality.
AfrikanTZ3
Member
Sorry i meant to write weeks 3-10, i gotta stop smokin this medical it's makin me stupid...lol
