my 400w MH isn't working, quick need help!

Kief Reefer

Kief Reefer

Well-Known Member
I've got my superior females vegging under fluorescent right now. They are 6 weeks old. It's time to introduce my 400 watt metal halide, but it isn't working. I've successfully spliced the wires from the ballast onto the female end of an extension cord with smaller wattages, and end up with plug-and-play HID lights. My problem is the same wiring isn't successful on my 400 watt metal halide. I need the light soon as the plants are outgrowing the fluorescent capacity. Anybody might know what's wrong? The ballast fires up and hums while it on, but the light isn't actually igniting. Triple checked the wiring, nothing loose. Is it possible my apartment is so cheap that the outlet can't supply enough power to the ballast and there's nothing wrong with the light itself?
 
mockingbird131313

mockingbird131313

Well-Known Member
Kief Reefer said:
I've got my superior females vegging under fluorescent right now. They are 6 weeks old. It's time to introduce my 400 watt metal halide, but it isn't working. I've successfully spliced the wires from the ballast onto the female end of an extension cord with smaller wattages, and end up with plug-and-play HID lights. My problem is the same wiring isn't successful on my 400 watt metal halide. I need the light soon as the plants are outgrowing the fluorescent capacity. Anybody might know what's wrong? The ballast fires up and hums while it on, but the light isn't actually igniting. Triple checked the wiring, nothing loose. Is it possible my apartment is so cheap that the outlet can't supply enough power to the ballast and there's nothing wrong with the light itself?
Click to expand...
I chase sparks for a living. My guess is the polarity is wrong. Check and make sure the black wire of the ballast is on the black wire of the extention cord. White to white. Green to green. Also, try premium quality wire-nuts. For real stuff, I ONLY use 3M Scotch Locks. Other brands look the same but are often not as good.
 
tleaf jr.

tleaf jr.

Well-Known Member
mine does that when it turns on but if im not home ny timer cuts it own , but i usally start tappin the bulb and make sure its not screwed in to tight
 
Kief Reefer

Kief Reefer

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info, mockingbird. Wires are all hooked up right. My 150 MH is wired the same and works great. I'll try those scotch locks, I can get them at Lowe's or Home Depot?
 
Kief Reefer

Kief Reefer

Well-Known Member
Ok, I figured it out. It was a voltage application. US households run on 120 volts, while the ballast was originally hooked directly to a box drawing 277. If I splice the 120 volt wire, it should work when I plug it into the wall.
 
mockingbird131313

mockingbird131313

Well-Known Member
Kief Reefer said:
Ok, I figured it out. It was a voltage application. US households run on 120 volts, while the ballast was originally hooked directly to a box drawing 277. If I splice the 120 volt wire, it should work when I plug it into the wall.
Click to expand...
277 volts is a phase leg in a 480 volt, three phase, setup. Unless your ballast has a multi tap design, you are trying to milk a pig. It aint happening.
 
Kief Reefer

Kief Reefer

Well-Known Member
In fact, it does have a multi-tap design. At least, from what I understand of the context of the sentence. It has voltage wires for 120/ a couple I don't remember/220/240/277. It's a magnetic ballast, if I'm not mistaken. Copper wired wrapped around to make a superconductor? All the other wires besides 277 have been capped off, but I found the 120 volt wire. I haven't had a chance to plug it in, though. I'm kinda anxious.
 
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