my b+ shroom grow

tylerrrrr

Well-Known Member
I may have ... is that not good
Nah it isn't really good because when you do that you let out all the C02 buildup the mycelium has produced and let in fresh air which can induce premature pinning.

Remember mushrooms want as much FAE when pinning and mycelium wants as much CO2 when colonizing.
 

LeMonster

New Member
Hey Harley, the cakes you heard about is called brf tek. That's a mixture of vermiculite and brown rice flower. You'll need those, pearlite, a good amount of wide mouthed half pint jars, and ideally a pressure cooker. It's the best op for noobies. All my grows have been brf tek. Its been a little while so I think I'm leaving some ingredients out quite possibly. But nonetheless, brf tek is the one for you.vyou can find a great recipe with instructions on how to set up your fruiting chamber on shroomery.org. Trust me, they gotchu. If you have any questions though feel free to hit me up, although I'm sure there are plenty of more notable and knowledgable growers on this site and especially on shroomery. Happy growing dude.
- le monster
 

KLITE

Well-Known Member
When growing cubensis, such a prolific species, I think using animal excrements does not provide much added benefit to not using it in terms of flush sizes. It is however easier to get contams after the second flush when using excretion. Though you will definetly get a 4th and a 5th flush worth talking about. I find that if you add half to 1 quart of gypsum to your boiling water before adding it to your coco you will get good later flushes. I have harvested 5-6 ridiculously sized monsters with 4-5 inch caps and half the length of an adult forearm on a 6th or 7th flush (cant remember) with just a brick of coir 3 quarts of VERY FINE vermiculite (i really think fine vermiculte is the best for mycelium) 5.5 quarts of water with a just about 1 quart of gypsum and obviously dunked for 10-20 minutes in water before spawning to bulk. I once got just over 200 grams dry from one tub on the first flush done like so. When you dunk your grain and if and only if your substrate is at field capacity you will get your tub to colonize well in under 1 week and most likely be ready for a first flush another week after that. Come harvest time, if you have good genetics i.e clone from a decent fruit, you will not be able to fit your hand in the tub to pick anything clusters so big you dont know where they begin or end. I actually get annoyed sometimes because it takes me over an hour to clear the tubs of caps and probably another cleaning them and packing the dehydrator to the tip of its hairs.
I've had a tub done this way that has had its 1st flush a good 3 months ago. The cake is now completely purple very dehydrated and i still get a few mushrooms from it every now and again. I have rehydrated the cake though, but still in shock that no contams have thrived there yet, I did get into the habit of moping every 2 days with bleach turning the fan off and misting the lower 2 feet of the room with 1/10 water and bleach.

Good luck with your tub, remember to dial it propperly with the polyfil so you get those extra big pretty caps ;)
 

tylerrrrr

Well-Known Member
Ambient light has been proven to be beneficial to mycelium growth.

Covering your tubs with anything or leaving them in a dark area is outdated information.
 

KLITE

Well-Known Member
Ambient light has been proven to be beneficial to mycelium growth.

Covering your tubs with anything or leaving them in a dark area is outdated information.
You are right but let me add something. Mycelium regulates its circadian rythm like humans do by periods or darkness and light regulated by the sun that we take as a constant. It is actually beneficial to colonize your tubs/jars with a blue spectrum light at 12/12. By doing this you will definetly witness a more rapid mycelium growth and just generally keep your mycelium happy and 'regular'.
 

justlearning73

Well-Known Member
Klite, Tyler, do you have a link to back up this info? All my research I have not come across anything that has said this. I am not saying you are wrong just saying I havent seen this. I am a newbie growing mushies. So trying to learn all i can.
 

tylerrrrr

Well-Known Member
Klite, Tyler, do you have a link to back up this info? All my research I have not come across anything that has said this. I am not saying you are wrong just saying I havent seen this. I am a newbie growing mushies. So trying to learn all i can.
Heres a quote from a trusted source (RogerRabbit) on light vs dark while colonizing.
In past years I did many side by side tests of colonizing in the dark vs colonizing in normal ambient light. In every case, the jars that colonized in the light produced fruits sooner and with more abundance. Shiitake growers routinely expose substrate blocks to light for at least the last two weeks of colonization in order to get the circadian rhythm established. Paul Stamets, who wrote in TMC (The Mushroom Cultivator) to colonize many species in total darkness, now disavows that advice and colonizes all his spawn on open shelves with 12/12 light.

Sometimes it's hard to get away from what works to try something new, but if you'll colonize on an open shelf at normal room temp and ambient light exposure from day one, performance is better and contamination is less. I suspect it's because the mycelium gets a normal cycle established and is healthier.
Source
 

justlearning73

Well-Known Member
Not knocking RR but according to Penn State, Kansas State Uni and Erowid just to name a few they all say that mycelium do not need light and should be colonized in the dark. This is I believe the industry standard. All light is to a mushroom is a trigger to start to pin and grow mushrooms. Which make sense to me as the mycelium grow in the dark naturally. Mushrooms grow in organic material containing carbohydrates such as sugar, starch, cellulose or lignin, as well as the nitrogen required by all green plants. However, mushrooms cannot manufacture these products the way other plants do because they have no green color in their tissues. They develop their full root system, a network of fine white threads called mycelium, before any part of the plant appears above the soil. Now i am not saying it cant be done in light, I just dont think just because one person says to do it, that is the way it should be done. But I am just a newbie myself and still learning.
 

Budoctor

Well-Known Member
I moved some of the soil around and there's white strands. These are in the dark under top layer. Idk most teks say colonize n the dark so that what im doing
 

tylerrrrr

Well-Known Member
Not knocking RR but according to Penn State, Kansas State Uni and Erowid just to name a few
Have you looked at the dates those articles were published?

20 some years ago growers thought dark was the way too go. Up until "recently" we now know mycelium exposed to light in all stages of growth is good for it. So it gets use to a 12/12 schedule. RR is the only person I heard who has put this to the test (as mentioned in the previous quote). So You can leave or take his advice.

Incubating dark is another thing in Paul Stamets 'The Mushroom Cultivator' that needs to go away. The old
advice of "incubate in total darkness" is bunk. Those words were written by Stamets in TMC 20 years ago, and
he disavows that advice today. There is no harm or benefit from keeping jars in the dark. Expose them to
normal room lighting from day one. There is no reason at all to ever have your mycelia in the dark. Darkness
will only delay pinning. If you give light from day one, your yields will go up, and you won't face overlay
problems. I've found no benefit or harm from allowing the grain jars to be exposed to light from day one. If a
few pins form in the grains, it is actually a good thing. Contrary to popular belief, a few pins in the grains can
be spawned right into the manure or straw (or used in grain to grain transfers) and they do not rot or otherwise
cause contamination.

There is evidence they actually help to give a faster, more uniform pinset in the eventual
flushes. Stamets believes it's the hormones or other chemical triggers in the pins that do this. Exposing light
from day one, one jar out of a hundred will make an early pin or two, but I simply spawn those pins right into
bulk substrate along with the grains with zero ill effects. (In other words, small pins don't contaminate when
spawned to bulk along with the grains). Twenty years ago, Stamets wrote in TMC to "incubate in total
darkness" and people stick to that as if they were the words of god. However, stamets no longer teaches
incubation in darkness, and I agree.

Paul is a pioneer and is always learning as are we and things (ideas) will change again as
we begin to really understand better what nature has given us.
I just dont think just because one person says to do it, that is the way it should be done.
Paul Stamets also believes this as well...


This is I believe the industry standard.
Apparently not.
If you visit fungi perfect, you'll see 10,000 square feet of incubation area,
with 8' fluorescent tubes lighting the entire area for ten to twelve hours per day.
 

KLITE

Well-Known Member
Not knocking RR but according to Penn State, Kansas State Uni and Erowid just to name a few they all say that mycelium do not need light and should be colonized in the dark. This is I believe the industry standard. All light is to a mushroom is a trigger to start to pin and grow mushrooms. Which make sense to me as the mycelium grow in the dark naturally. Mushrooms grow in organic material containing carbohydrates such as sugar, starch, cellulose or lignin, as well as the nitrogen required by all green plants. However, mushrooms cannot manufacture these products the way other plants do because they have no green color in their tissues. They develop their full root system, a network of fine white threads called mycelium, before any part of the plant appears above the soil. Now i am not saying it cant be done in light, I just dont think just because one person says to do it, that is the way it should be done. But I am just a newbie myself and still learning.
RR has probably been at it for longer than most people have lived. Some things you realize after years and years of doing things. I have colonized both jars and tubs in darkness and in light and i have found that i get faster colonization speeds with light (bear in mind i kept no record of temperatures etc). I would even go as far as to say that one gets less aborts by letting tubs colonize with light.
 

justlearning73

Well-Known Member
Klite, Tylerrrr I have started a seprate thread about our discussion. I dont want to highjack this thread. The name of the thread is Light and col.
 

Budoctor

Well-Known Member
It seems the mycelium doesnt like the happy frog soil mix growth is slow
Ive noticed the chunks of myc are growing in poo so I put another thin layerof hpoo over the top.
 

Budoctor

Well-Known Member
I got an eight qt pressure cooker and some more pop corn I may do another batch if these dont speed up
 
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