My seedling stretched a lot and barely have leafs !?

marv2106

Well-Known Member
hey,
so I have 2 waterfarm in a 4x4 grow tent. I germinated 2 seeds and put them under 2 60w gro-bulb. This ended in them stretching a lot and staying along the floor instead of climing up. I thought there wasnt enough light so there are now under a 600w hps lamp dimmed at 400 at 4 foot of distance. The temperature is between 20 and 25 degree celsius and the humidity is between 45 and 50 % ( I know i should find a way to raise that but I don't know how ! I already have a humidifier in there but it just isnt working as I hoped it would). I recently found out I had a ph problem too, took care of it about 36h ago and now ph is stable a 5.8. So what should I do with these ? will they rise up ? should I put a stick and tie them to that stick ? should I bury them ? should I give them nuts ?????? need help please
So here are a few pics of the two ladies, I'm presently at day 7 since germination. thank you
 

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bkbbudz

New Member
You are gonna make a bad poblem worse by giving them that much light at this stage especially with the tin foil. The fluoros are good enough t this stage. Just get them closer to the light and yes put them in deeper and put a stick on them to hold them up. Please loose the tin foil prior to putting them back under 600w of light. Good Luck my friend.
 

neved

Well-Known Member
Man u should put your light closer.Use florcent for seeding and keep closer as dont heat bern the newbie.U have to set holder for that . Too strengh.If u have another seeds. Do it asap and make holder
 

bkbbudz

New Member
Also, if you get some 1 gal zipper lock freezer bags and put them over the girls you will raise the humidity.
 

marv2106

Well-Known Member
so since i have no fluo I put the two ladys under the 600w dimmed at 300 at about 2,5 feet of distance. I removed the thin foil and put two sticks to hold them up and covered them with a ziplock bag. I'll wait till tomorow and I'll put more pics. thanks again guys
 

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
Use your cfl's for the first week or two but put'em close about 2" away!
I would use maybe at least a 4" cube to germenate'em~
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
damn super stretchy. i veg with a 1000watt hps sometimes. i put it about a foot above the babies at that stage. just start high and move slowely closer everyday to let them harden. if possible support them or add more medium so they stand up. aka. bury them deeper while they are young they will root all the way up to the base of the medium u are using. just some food for thought. oh ive got a vented hood. dont try it with an open hood cuz u will fry them. lol. move the light closer. thats why they stretched so far. they were reaching for the light.

p.s. lose the foil. it will create hot spots and burn the fuck out of them.
 

zo0t

New Member
LEL BR() DUDE ITZ FIRST TIME I SEE A STRECH THAT LONG DOOD AND WHATS UP WITH DA ALUMIMIUMN FOIL I NEVER SAW SUCH A LONG STRECH MANGG JUST START OVER AND GET DA LIGHT CLOSER and also u go hydro for a noob iz not recommended

peece
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
LEL BR() DUDE ITZ FIRST TIME I SEE A STRECH THAT LONG DOOD AND WHATS UP WITH DA ALUMIMIUMN FOIL I NEVER SAW SUCH A LONG STRECH MANGG JUST START OVER AND GET DA LIGHT CLOSER and also u go hydro for a noob iz not recommended

peece
this is coming from the guy that is telling u to toss out perfectly savable plants. lmao. dont toss them. lose the foil and bring the light closer. it will help out a ton.
 

Brick Top

New Member
The cause was too little light ... and do not even begin to consider not using your dimmable 600-watt light and instead use a kiddiewinkie Easy Bake Oven Rube Goldberg ghetto grow lighting system made up of weak bulbs designed for household lighting.

Just because some people make that mistake don't follow in their footsteps when you have something so much better to rely on. As long as you are using a 6500K MH bulb you are light years ahead of the CFL uses when it comes to having quality lighting.

If someone has a hard enough rock they can drive in a nail, but that does not make a hard rock as good at doing the job as a hammer.

Also, scrap the aluminum foil.

What Reflective Materials can I use for my Grow Room?
[HR][/HR] Choosing the right surface for the walls of your grow room is very important, as up to 40% of your total yield comes from the edge, and the right wall surface can increase the amount of light those plants receive by up to 30%! Artificial lighting diminishes exponentially with distance, so it is important to ‘contain’ as much of this light as possible, and direct it accordingly. Reflective surfaces also help illuminate the lower portions of the garden, providing lower buds with light and heat energy.

To get the best results with your light and walls, it is important to get the walls as close as possible to your garden to ensure the least amount of light is wasted. As a caveat, the percentages provided are only useful as a general guideline, as they present the range of reflectivity of the particular surfaces. The high percentage presents the best possible circumstances for that material (for example a 99% reflectivity rating for Mylar sheeting would be under ideal conditions - no creases, completely flat, no discoloration, etc).

The best way to determine how well your grow room walls reflect light would be to purchase a light meter and measure your light directly; then take an opaque board and hold it a few inches off one of your walls with the light meter below the board in such a fashion that the light reflects off the wall and onto the light meter. You can then compare the difference between the two and determine a percentage from those numbers, the closer the two numbers are, the better your wall reflects light. It is important that in both measurements, your light meter is the same distance from the light, otherwise your results will be skewed.

Also important to note is that radiant light energy refers to electromagnetic (EM) radiation with a wavelength between 400-700 nanometers (nm) and radiant heat energy correlates to EM radiation with a wavelength between 800-2000nm.

Listed below are some of the most commonly used materials used for grow room walls:



Foylon:
A more durable version of Mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than Mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with Folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier and reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.



Mylar:
A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick Mylar while not quite as durable as the Foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick Mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of Mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than Foylon, but because Foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, Foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that Mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as Foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if Mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as Foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick Mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:
A specialized type of Mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick Mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as Foylon or Mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:
Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

Elastomere paint

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for grow boxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ Lowe's Home Improvement

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or don’t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and durability.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenter’s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to Mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment grow rooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "traveling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.



Emergency Blankets:
These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable.
 

marv2106

Well-Known Member
hi,
thanks for all the support and good advices. no thanks to the people who told me to kill them and start over MY SEEDLING ARE BACK ON THEIR FEETS euh I mean ROOTS !!!! Here are a couple of pictures.
ph : 5.9
ppm : 150 (normal tap water)

My 600w hps bulb is dimmed at 300w and hangs about 2 feet over my plants. Should I get it even closer you think ?Should I dimm it at 400w instead ? Should I start feeding them nuts ? a little 300-400 ppm might help them jumpstart their engine no ? And I have a huge humidity problem, I have a humidifyer in there but I cant keep the plants in a zziplock bag forever... how do I get the humidity go from 45 to 65 % ???

I know I'm a noob and a have a lot of question but thanks to all those who are kind enough to teach a man how to grow his own bud ! (and not give him crap advice like kill the plants... apparently I'm not the only noob around)
 

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wheels619

Well-Known Member
perfect dude. let em gro a while longer before giving them nutes tho. once they harden u can lower that baby farther and turn up the watts. i had my 1000 blasting them friom about 12-14 inches. but i have a 400 cfm fan hooked up to a sealed hood with the glass still in it. oh and ur humidity is good im roughly about 40% in my shed and they grow fine. i wouldnt even cover them anymore. id still try to get the light closer if u can without burning them. or at least turn up the watts a bit.
 

marv2106

Well-Known Member
thanks wheels619 ! I guess I'm going to let them like this for another day and make a rez change tomorow and turn the lamp at 400. I'll give them the time they need before nuts but novabloom or novagrow ???
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
i use niether. the nutes i use is xnutes. its cheaper and ive noticed bangin growth from it. its cheap and awesome. they dont over price them just to keep up with the market.
 

bkbbudz

New Member
I am so glad that some of my advice paid off! I grow exclusiely in soil. So, I really cannot advise on nutes etc. As far as humidity, you can put a bucket of water in the area and that will help a bit. You are right you don't want to keep the baggies on there forever. It may start to cause issues, they need oygen as well.
 

marv2106

Well-Known Member
no i know i should veg them before flowering them ^^ I was just asking about the nuts themselves but if you never used them its all good don't woory about it
 
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