Mycorrhizae safe Ph up and down? Organic PH in gerneral.

Fluxcap

Fluxcap

Active Member
How can waters PH be balanced with out killing beneficial mycorrhizae?

I've heard that balancing your PH in organic soil grows is not as important as in other growing methods. I'm not sure if this is true or not, but I have added lime to my soil in order to keep the ph in check. Is this enough or should I still try to balance the PH of my water/Nutrient solution?

Right now I have General hydros' PH up and down, but I do not want to use them and risk losing my mycro heard.

So what do you do, run unbalanced PH through buffered soil, or risk losing your root huggers?
 
GooDGR3EN13

GooDGR3EN13

Well-Known Member
You should be fine with dolomite lime it locks the ph to 7 and stabilizes it unless you use a product with low ph like tiger bloom which runs at a 4 might throw it off but as long as you arnt seeing stunted growth you should be fine on jus lime, but if problems do occur ide start testing.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
How much lime have you added?

I don't pH anything, but my lime is 2tbl/gallon of mix or 1 cup/cf of mix.

It's hard to over apply lime (but you can) and easy to under apply. I run a peat based mix and go on the heavy side with the lime.

Wet
 
Matt Rize

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
To begin, pH represents a concentration of dissolved hydronium ions H3O+, or acidity.

Overall media pH (soil + water) does affect nutrient uptake in any/all Cannabis gardens, but much more so in hydro or chem gardens. Anyone who says that pH doesn't matter in organics can go feed their plants with a solution of <4.0 pH and watch as the soil's buffering capacity is quickly overtaken by the abundance of acidity. But old school organics doesn't use enzymatic products and the like that cause such acidic conditions.

And pH issues differ (here in the states) depending on your location. Water east of the Mississippi is mostly acidic, and West is mostly alkaline.

pH down is citric acid, and in small amounts will not kill microbes. Make sure to add it at the very last step, after your nutes are mixed, right before feeding.

Another way to control your pH is with enzymatic products and other supplements. Most nutes and supplements affect pH in some way, and instead of using pH up or down you can adjust your nutes/supplementation to account for proper water pH. For example: if your hygrozyme is dropping your water pH too low, then use less, or use another -zyme that doesn't drop the pH so low.

Either way, keeping track of your water and soil pH will lead you to an advanced understanding of what is going on in the rhizosphere.
 
aeviaanah

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
Matt Rize said:
To begin, pH represents a concentration of dissolved hydronium ions H3O+, or acidity.

Overall media pH (soil + water) does affect nutrient uptake in any/all Cannabis gardens, but much more so in hydro or chem gardens. Anyone who says that pH doesn't matter in organics can go feed their plants with a solution of <4.0 pH and watch as the soil's buffering capacity is quickly overtaken by the abundance of acidity. But old school organics doesn't use enzymatic products and the like that cause such acidic conditions.

And pH issues differ (here in the states) depending on your location. Water east of the Mississippi is mostly acidic, and West is mostly alkaline.

pH down is citric acid, and in small amounts will not kill microbes. Make sure to add it at the very last step, after your nutes are mixed, right before feeding.

Another way to control your pH is with enzymatic products and other supplements. Most nutes and supplements affect pH in some way, and instead of using pH up or down you can adjust your nutes/supplementation to account for proper water pH. For example: if your hygrozyme is dropping your water pH too low, then use less, or use another -zyme that doesn't drop the pH so low.

Either way, keeping track of your water and soil pH will lead you to an advanced understanding of what is going on in the rhizosphere.
Click to expand...
so what range would one want to attempt to change ph in an organic grow? in synthetics i always shot for 6.5...do you have a range as a guideline?
i have two soil testers...one a two prong probe 3in1 meter that shows ph, light, and moisture...i also have a soil test kit that uses a powder, a soil sample and a color chart. which would you prefer? what should the soil range be in an organic grow...showing a healthy rhizosphere?
 
Matt Rize

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
If my pH isn't between 6 and 7, then I make sure to change it. With time I've got my nute mix pH-ing between 6.3 and 6.5 every time without adding up or down.

The lighter your mix, the more you will have to water, and the more water pH matters. Soil-less mixes have added buffers, but usually still less than the actual buffer capacity in soil mixes or the ground.

Those soil testers are commonly inaccurate, but better than nothing. Do both tests, and then do them again, and take averages.

And use a pH pen for your solution, if you are mixing your nutes to feed.

If you are not using soluble organic food, then make sure your pre-mix is buffered correctly for the long-term.
 
aeviaanah

aeviaanah

Well-Known Member
Matt Rize said:
If you are not using soluble organic food, then make sure your pre-mix is buffered correctly for the long-term.
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Not sure what you mean by this.

I got the ph pen and will make sure i check before feeding...how often are you feeding with nutrients?
 
Matt Rize

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
aeviaanah said:
Not sure what you mean by this.

I got the ph pen and will make sure i check before feeding...how often are you feeding with nutrients?
Click to expand...
Sorry, that is really a response to the hardcore old schoolers who give me shit or using soluble foods. I'll explain better

Say you are planning on doing your grow without any soluble foods (liquid ferts or water soluble ferts), and mixing in all of your dry slow-release food from the start. And you are planning on only adding teas (old school), to feed off of the soil-food web. Then make sure you add the proper amount of lime (or other pH buffer) to this potting mix because you won't want to use pH adjusters in your water.

The pH pen will come in handy to have the data for long term analysis.

I'm currently running a new-school method of indoor: vegan organic soil-less. I feed constantly.

In your situation, I feed as much as I can, usually every other watering after the first few weeks. When I start running out of slow-release completely, usually 2-4 weeks into flowering, then I can feed every watering until flushing.
 
Jack*Herrer420

Jack*Herrer420

Well-Known Member
Alright, ph in organics, an interesting debate for sure. First off, adding good amounts of humates such as compost, earthworm castings, and others, as well as dolomite limes will help buffer your ph. In addition, checking the ph of your solution prior to watering and adjusting up or down with natural products will also help. I personally never check my ph and have yet to have problems, but if wanting to lower your solution you can use citric acids, and to raise it use baking soda. Just keep your microbes happy and thriving and they will in turn ensure your plants are happy.
 
GayRioThug

GayRioThug

Member
Jack*Herrer420 said:
Alright, ph in organics, an interesting debate for sure. First off, adding good amounts of humates such as compost, earthworm castings, and others, as well as dolomite limes will help buffer your ph. In addition, checking the ph of your solution prior to watering and adjusting up or down with natural products will also help. I personally never check my ph and have yet to have problems, but if wanting to lower your solution you can use citric acids, and to raise it use baking soda. Just keep your microbes happy and thriving and they will in turn ensure your plants are happy.
Click to expand...
That is a replica to what I believe, lol. Thread to come.
 
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