Mycorrhizal fungi applications for cannabis - the caveats

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
I have read you rant on this subject countless times. In this instance I was referring to the nutrient schedule in regards to the fungal colonies in the super plant tonic. My aim in asking the question was not to find information about feeding, but whether the SPT microorganisms could survive in the high salt nutrient solution suggested by fox farm.
My myco survive just fine with FF nutes. Dont forget their own Big Bloom is full of microbes as well. I wrote SPT and asked them if its fine to mix SPT up with FF nutes and they said its just fine. I mentioned this in the BMO thread. Read the last two pages. Theres also a link in there to a discussion about salts/chem ferts and microbes thats worth reading.

https://www.rollitup.org/organics/109517-blue-mountian-organics-8.html
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
Myo loves an all organic low ppm rhizosphere and yes they will benefit an organic grow with the assimilation of Phos along with the protection of the root zone against pathogens and harmful bacteria/fungi. If using myo cut back the phosphorus a little since the myo will be assimilating more to your plants. Also as far as the FF big bloom goes make a mix of 30ml/gal and add seaweed or more earthworm castings if you need more N... If you have to use the grow big then do so but keep it 3ml/gal or less. Add your myo after you have mixed and Ph'd your nutes. Myo love a veg ppm range below 700 and below 900. Myo have a sweet tooth so a little unsulpherd molasses will give them a kick plus add a little organic---cal/mag/iron---plus micros at the same time. Humic acid is a great daily food source as well.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hi Dave, happy new year!

My myco survive just fine with FF nutes.
Please don't think I'm being confrontational, but it begs the question, "how do you know they survive"? I'm using myco on alot of stuff, but I have no way of confirming if my applications (and I've used probably 160 gallons by now) are having any benefit. It's my understanding that the filaments are not visible to the human eye, so all I have to go on is blind faith and a watchful eye regarding plant growth. What I'm thinking is what I've held for so long - with a well prepared and designed soil mix, you don't need any supplements. For hydro, to grow excellent plants you only need the 16 essential elements in a well balanced soluble salts form that can pass thru the root's epidermal gradient.

I guess what I'm asking of anyone lurking here, do you know of a method to confirm the progress and impact of the myco blends other than the prevailing human element that we see what we expect to see?

UB
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Hi Dave, happy new year!



Please don't think I'm being confrontational, but it begs the question, "how do you know they survive"? I'm using myco on alot of stuff, but I have no way of confirming if my applications (and I've used probably 160 gallons by now) are having any benefit. It's my understanding that the filaments are not visible to the human eye, so all I have to go on is blind faith and a watchful eye regarding plant growth. What I'm thinking is what I've held for so long - with a well prepared and designed soil mix, you don't need any supplements. For hydro, to grow excellent plants you only need the 16 essential elements in a well balanced soluble salts form that can pass thru the root's epidermal gradient.

I guess what I'm asking of anyone lurking here, do you know of a method to confirm the progress and impact of the myco blends other than the prevailing human element that we see what we expect to see?

UB
You can see them on the roots that poke out of the bottom of the pot, or when I upcan you see a hairy white mold on the roots(I could be wrong though??). The "mold" doesn't colonize as well as I would like. Even on the plants that were getting organic nutes only for a month are no better than the ones getting FF. Ive still got a bottle left, and may as well do a side by side on next grow if any is left. Even then, I am doubting there is enough benefit.

I decided to do some quick reading, and it appears Ive discovered why they are slow to colonize my root system even though these plants are two months old. It takes months for them to even start developing colonies when plants are first treated. Even at two years dont expect a full colony according to this:

http://www.super-grow.biz/Myco.jsp#where

Im glad you were "confrontational" :). It appears myco additives really aren't that useful for short lived plants like MJ.

I think Ill do some more looking around for stuff to read about it.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Excellent thoughts!

You can see them on the roots that poke out of the bottom of the pot, or when I upcan you see a hairy white mold on the roots(I could be wrong though??). The "mold" doesn't colonize as well as I would like. Even on the plants that were getting organic nutes only for a month are no better than the ones getting FF. Ive still got a bottle left, and may as well do a side by side on next grow if any is left. Even then, I am doubting there is enough benefit.
If you could shoot me a picture I would love it! It should be easy to discern between fine root hairs and a mold like filament.

I decided to do some quick reading, and it appears Ive discovered why they are slow to colonize my root system even though these plants are two months old. It takes months for them to even start developing colonies when plants are first treated. Even at two years dont expect a full colony according to this:

http://www.super-grow.biz/Myco.jsp#where

Im glad you were "confrontational" :). It appears myco additives really aren't that useful for short lived plants like MJ.
That's exactly what I brought up either on page one or in another thread in another forum. Being that this is an annual, I don't think there is enough time for the colony to take place, to be of any real world benefit. I was told by a tech that even with perennials, it takes a while for the dormancy to expansive growth phase to take effect. IOW, when you apply it, it doesn't automatically go to work like some wish to believe.

I think Ill do some more looking around for stuff to read about it.
Would be appreciated. Did you ever see my link on grapes? This is one of the few scientific reads on VAM: http://www.wynboer.co.za/recentarticles/200705miko.php3
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Now here is the rub - this fungi comes dormant with a carrier and takes time to become active, work up an active colony in the root zone. Is it active by the time you harvest, or a week after application while your plants are in the juvenile stage?
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Now here is the rub - this fungi comes dormant with a carrier and takes time to become active, work up an active colony in the root zone. Is it active by the time you harvest, or a week after application while your plants are in the juvenile stage?
I probably read that and didn't take heed since I had already purchased the stuff and couldn't return it :).

Ill try and take a picture for you if possible. All ive got is a shitty camera phone, so hopefully I can get something.

I swear you mentioned that myco would perform best in a soil-less mixture in your last post or two. This was a link I found discussing myco tips in different soil layers:

http://www.cababstractsplus.org/abstracts/Abstract.aspx?AcNo=19780648568

It seems ecto-myco colonizes best in humus, which should already be full of microbes right? Thats a surprise to me.

Heres the best picture I could get. Its actually the only exposed root I could really find the "mold on". Real effective....
 

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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I probably read that and didn't take heed since I had already purchased the stuff and couldn't return it :).

Ill try and take a picture for you if possible. All ive got is a shitty camera phone, so hopefully I can get something.

I swear you mentioned that myco would perform best in a soil-less mixture in your last post or two. This was a link I found discussing myco tips in different soil layers:

http://www.cababstractsplus.org/abstracts/Abstract.aspx?AcNo=19780648568

It seems ecto-myco colonizes best in humus, which should already be full of microbes right? Thats a surprise to me.
Guess I was figuring soil-less to mean without compost. Soil-less to me would be a peat based mix with perlite. I may have misconstrued this.

Heres the best picture I could get. Its actually the only exposed root I could really find the "mold on". Real effective....
Thanks, but tough to see.

After it's all said and done, I don't see any value for cannabis. If you're doing soil, then add peat moss, compost, worm castings, alfalfa meal, etc.

Did you see this? https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/288122-few-thoughts-reducing-stretch.html

UB
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Guess I was figuring soil-less to mean without compost. Soil-less to me would be a peat based mix with perlite. I may have misconstrued this.

Thanks, but tough to see.

After it's all said and done, I don't see any value for cannabis. If you're doing soil, then add peat moss, compost, worm castings, alfalfa meal, etc.

Did you see this? https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/288122-few-thoughts-reducing-stretch.html

UB
Since were on the subject of mediums, have you ever used aged/composted pine bark fines? I started using some this grow, and have pretty much fallen in love with it. It eliminates my ability to over-water seedlings, and definitely doesn't become compacted like peat/compost(although I still use them as part of the mix).

Thanks for that new link. Im gonna check it out now, along with the grape one.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Since were on the subject of mediums, have you ever used aged/composted pine bark fines? I started using some this grow, and have pretty much fallen in love with it. It eliminates my ability to over-water seedlings, and definitely doesn't become compacted like peat/compost(although I still use them as part of the mix).

Thanks for that new link. Im gonna check it out now, along with the grape one.
Brick Top used pine fines alot. I think redwood or fir would be better, used to use it for orchids. You really need to increase the N in order to feed the N feeding bacteria which will be breaking down the bark, like a 30-10-10. It's pretty hard to beat horse manure.
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Brick Top used pine fines alot. I think redwood or fir would be better, used to use it for orchids. You really need to increase the N in order to feed the N feeding bacteria which will be breaking down the bark, like a 30-10-10. It's pretty hard to beat horse manure.
From what Ive read, its the uncomposted pine bark that really becomes a problem, but partially composted it shouldnt be a big issue, but it is probably prudent to up the nitrogen like you said.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
From what Ive read, its the uncomposted pine bark that really becomes a problem, but partially composted it shouldnt be a big issue, but it is probably prudent to up the nitrogen like you said.
If it's composted, I'd go for it. I have a problem with over maintenance regarding watering. I do the opposite of most folks, I tighten up the mix so I don't have to water as often. If you have a robust healthy growing plant it's almost impossible to have a root rot issue.
 

doogleef

Well-Known Member
I use the cal-mag to supplement of course, my leaf tips were looking bad and the leaves were generally poor looking before i started the cal-mag.

.
I hear this A LOT. :wall: A quick look at the cal-mag label answers why you saw an increase in leaf health. It's 2-0-0. Its the nitrogen boost you were needing.

http://www.americanagritech.com/supplements/cal-mag

After it's all said and done, I don't see any value for cannabis. If you're doing soil, then add peat moss, compost, worm castings, alfalfa meal, etc.
Thanks UB, jberry, Dave, and all the other good posters on this thread. Great info and another paradigm cracking conclusion. Rep+ all around. :fire:

Rock on!

 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the very usefull info UB an everyone! Very nice thread!!!! I just would like to know how much worm castings to add to promix ? also it seems to be cheaper to buy a premade mix rather then mix your own dirt? castings are expensive if you do not make them yourself an the same with compost. (which i will be making my own compost and castings soon) but until then?
Thanks



I will be gettin me a scope to watch those lil fucks , so i can really tell if the additive is doing its job.
wb:joint:
 
uncle ben u the man, just curious as to what medium you use and if you add fungi bact to it, i been using basement mix by royal something and got some of plant success and things are looking great. r u soil or coco, how much perlite do u use. also, when using that 1.3.2 what is the max u use during flowering, was thinking going next time with petes or jacks whatever it was called. just curious for how u have gotten r done. things looking great on my end living and learning got no cam tho lol. anyway was just curious if u seen plant success and if u would use it , maybe mix it in soil beforehand, also, do you think topping creates better meristems or should i fim? my last plants were fimed and the meristems are huge idk just rant back to me lol
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
You can see them on the roots that poke out of the bottom of the pot, or when I upcan you see a hairy white mold on the roots(I could be wrong though??). The "mold" doesn't colonize as well as I would like. Even on the plants that were getting organic nutes only for a month are no better than the ones getting FF. Ive still got a bottle left, and may as well do a side by side on next grow if any is left. Even then, I am doubting there is enough benefit.

I decided to do some quick reading, and it appears Ive discovered why they are slow to colonize my root system even though these plants are two months old. It takes months for them to even start developing colonies when plants are first treated. Even at two years dont expect a full colony according to this:

http://www.super-grow.biz/Myco.jsp#where

Im glad you were "confrontational" :). It appears myco additives really aren't that useful for short lived plants like MJ.
Well, yes and no.

From what I've noticed, yes mj is too short lived for the most part. It does seem to help with mother plants that are kept around for longer periods of time.

If you're a gardener, alliums (Onions,shallots,garlic) really benefit and I have noticed a difference there. The 9 month growing season might help also.

I get mine from Fungi Perfect, www.fungi.com and besides the myco, there is also beneficial bacteria in there. It is just pure spore mass and 1oz will make 12 gallons of solution. Cost a grand total of $5.95 for 1oz and the shipping is ~$1.50. So, figure $8 and another $2 for some molasses to wake it up. A bit cheaper than anything I've seen with a pretty label.:roll:

Anyway, I HAVE noticed a difference, but I think it's due more to some of the 19 different bacteria's that's in there than the mycos, but something seems to be working.

Wet
 

DaveCoulier

Well-Known Member
Well, yes and no.

From what I've noticed, yes mj is too short lived for the most part. It does seem to help with mother plants that are kept around for longer periods of time.

If you're a gardener, alliums (Onions,shallots,garlic) really benefit and I have noticed a difference there. The 9 month growing season might help also.

I get mine from Fungi Perfect, www.fungi.com and besides the myco, there is also beneficial bacteria in there. It is just pure spore mass and 1oz will make 12 gallons of solution. Cost a grand total of $5.95 for 1oz and the shipping is ~$1.50. So, figure $8 and another $2 for some molasses to wake it up. A bit cheaper than anything I've seen with a pretty label.:roll:

Anyway, I HAVE noticed a difference, but I think it's due more to some of the 19 different bacteria's that's in there than the mycos, but something seems to be working.

Wet
If there is a difference, I doubt its from the myco like you said as well.

Myco perform best in nutrient poor soil outdoors. They help uptake water and nutrients, but that is two things that should never be a problem for indoor gardening. As long as we maintain a healthy root system with sufficient moisture in the soil, so that nutrients can be uptaken, then we should be good to go. That means not waiting until the soil is bone-dry before watering like some dummies think :)
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
I am not against the shit at all but i did see professor or dr. David Douds try to come up with a way to multiply and breed the shit in a nice easy economical way. And since the mycorrhizae needs live roots to breed and multiply , he tried to grow innoculated grass in compost , and the myco died off pretty quick because of how "rich" the soil was and the grass did not need the myco's help.
that dont mean my dirt is that healthy but it does mean its my fault if it isnt.

wb
 
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