In the future, when you do a plain water flush, plan in the last gallon to be a somewhat mild feed to make sure they have something to work with, given Promix doesn't have any native nutrient content, maybe something like half of what you'd normally do.
Since they are fully saturated, what volume of water should I use for 3 5g pots? I'm thinking a gallon or so but with like 1/4 tsp of FP and maybe 1/4 tsp of protekt at like 6-6.1PH. They've been pretty well poured through so i wouldn't think more than a gallon or so would be needed as most will go right through at this point.
I'm sure that'll be fine. If you only ran water through them earlier today or a few hours ago that isn't a problem. You just don't want to re-saturate if they've been soaking wet for a day or two, because then you're just over-watering and the medium isn't drying out enough not to drown them.
Gave them 1/4 tsp per gallon. They were already looking much improved after being flushed. Guess we will see how they look in 2 days.
Man I'm going to really have my work cut out for me here. They are definitely starting to eat a bit as I'm getting a bit of yellow leaf drop at the bottom. But holy shit the shockwaves from the damage is still ongoing. The middle one is still showing more crispy leaves in the margins. I want to prune, but that will probably just stress them even more. Just need to stay the course and resist the urge to adjust too many things. I'm a bit scared to go over 1/4 tsp though as I can't tell if symptoms are still spreading or not. The undergrowth of the plant stretch looks pretty healthy, but even newer growth from the main branches are showing burn, curl, and leaf claw.
Until the leaves yellow and get ready to drop, I don't snip them. If the plants are taking nutrients from leaves 'green but some burn' means they can still pull nutrition from them, which gives you a bit of a buffer from them starving if it's not going well. May look ugly, but as long as the tops are doing ok. Also, the leaves that are actually damaged won't come back. They'll remain damaged until they drop.
See and I believe the opposite that it's rarely the PH. Cannabis has a wide absorbing PH range, even if certain ranges are better at absorbing certain elements than others. I think most problems are from watering practices or improper nutrient levels/ratios. Also make sure your nutrients don't have any dyes in them if you're using the color drops as it will throw off the resulting color. For example GH Micro has a strong wine color that will throw off the resulting color. I plan to mix in dolomitic lime and run half vermiculite with a little gypsum next grow to try to simplify my process. I've slowly fallen back into bro science and need to get back to just growing plants instead of pushing them to their genetic maximum potential. Learning to garden instead of being a "weed scientist."I've never done a run with Pro mix. I know it's a popular base. I'll probably try it one day.
I use FFOF, FFHF, Coco Loco, Perlite, Rice hulls, Worm castings, some Good Earth general purpose organic ferts with a few TBSPs of dolomite lime and some bio-char. BUT....on this last run I started out without the lime and bio-char and the mix turned out to be VERY acidic. I got ALL kinds of lockout. So, I ended up flushing/leaching the pots with pH'd water until I got the runoff to be in an acceptable range. After doing all that leaching, the "soil" basically became inert -as in a drain-to-waste hydro kind of thing....looks like soil, but has nothing left in it. So, I started a Jack's 3-2-1 regime and, after about a month setback and looking terrible, the plants are back and seem stronger than ever. I really believe that a lot (if not most) of the deficiency problems comes from an underlying pH problem -at least for certain types of mediums like potting soil mixes and stuff like that.
General Hydroponics pH test kit (with the green liquid drops) is now my new best friend!
Good luck! I hope you solve your problem!
You may be right. I know there's an awful lot of new nutrients and concentrated stuff that I haven't ever tried. I'm kind of unfamiliar with a lot of these nutrient lines and amendments. They weren't available to me when I started to grow weed, so I never experienced any of them. But, yeah, I guess I could understand how it could become a common problem these days. I imagine it gets pretty confusing for new growers to try and figure out which line of nutrients they are going to use and how often to apply them. But, when a fairly small plant in a fresh batch of potting mix starts to display what appears to be deficiency issues right from the start, then it's probably going to be a pH issue. The nutrients are present, but the plant can't absorb them -which looks the same as a situation where the nutrients aren't present. Either way, the plant can't "eat" the food. And that's when some people might run for the cal-mag because they think the soil is starving the plants and THEN it becomes a nutrient-level problem.
