need advice on pro grow 180 please

ok just bought a pg 180 and i want to know the most efficient ways of using it.

i currently have a

-1 full spectrum 120 watt tri band led
-1 90 watt ufo
-2 45watt cfl
-3 2ft t8

i have a 4in duct coming from lid of rubber made sucking into the bottom of flower box through scrubber/inline and exhausts outside of building.

using a rubber made container as a veg box that i also put my aero cloner in occasionally when i take clones. currently have a 90 watt ufo in it with 5 thc bombs and 1 big bud x northern lights auto. they just put out their first set of leaves. this pic is from a old grow when i had 2 t8 in the box instead of the ufo but you get it. temps from 70 night time to 85 day time

my flower box currently has 1x full spectrum 120 watt tri band, 2x 45 watt cfl, and 1 t8. the current set up works fine but im looking to get some more dens buds and faster. the set up i have now takes a little bit to start flowering after 12/12. the flower box is a plastic cabinet 1.5ft by 3ft and 4ft tall. it has a 300cfm scrubber in top of box with a 750cfm adjustable inline outside of the box. the scrubber and a $30 ionizer covers 100% of the scent so far but only 3 weeks into flower. temps stays 75 to 80 degrees.
this is a old photo lights are not the same now.

i just bought a new pg180 and am pretty pumped to see how much better it yields compared to current set up. im looking for advice on how to use everything more efficiently.

questions
1. should i hang the pg180 directly above plants or at the top of the box always?
2. im not quite sure how the light switches work on the pg180. can i turn on veg lights on and flower lights on at the same time or are they used separately?
3. if so why not use all lights at all times?
4. if its better to use different settings what settings are used for what point of growth? obviously veg with veg light and flower when flowering but when would i use the full spectrum if i can?
5. how many plants could be grown properly under the pg180 alone.
6. would a sea of green or 1 to 4 well trained plants yield better in my set up? keep in mind that my veg and flower rooms arnt very big so its hard to veg for a long time. although with my current led panel produces nodes really tight. last crop was a sativa and only streched 4in to 6in under the 120 tri band.

i also have a question about the pg260x compared to the pg260. what make the 260x better. i know it has a lens or something but how does it work and why is it better? what is it used for?

also any tips on using the pg180 are appreciated.

i dont need to hear any comments about buying a hps or mh. i have a 600 its cool but not going to work in my current set up.

thanks

I use the veg (blue/white) only for seedlings and cuttings.
Once you have some roots, turn both switches on.
Veg and bloom with both switches on. (full spectrum)
You can run just the red/white for the last few days of flower if you want.
Don't be fooled into getting them too close because you don't feel any heat. 16"-20" is ok for veg and 14" is about as close as you would need late into flower.

The "X" models have a more focused beam for better penetration. You would need to keep them farther away from your plants.
Pro Grow also upgraded their fans for the newer models.
For the money, there are better lamps out there (Area 51)

Using 2 gallon Airpots with coco/perlite, short veg, flip at 8"-12" for indica dominant strains, 6 plants.

More Pro Grow info; http://www.growmedical420.com/category/grow-journals/

ellydee said:

I use the veg (blue/white) only for seedlings and cuttings.
Once you have some roots, turn both switches on.
Veg and bloom with both switches on. (full spectrum)
You can run just the red/white for the last few days of flower if you want.
Don't be fooled into getting them too close because you don't feel any heat. 16"-20" is ok for veg and 14" is about as close as you would need late into flower.

The "X" models have a more focused beam for better penetration. You would need to keep them farther away from your plants.
Pro Grow also upgraded their fans for the newer models.
For the money, there are better lamps out there (Area 51)

Using 2 gallon Airpots with coco/perlite, short veg, flip at 8"-12" for indica dominant strains, 6 plants.

More Pro Grow info; http://www.growmedical420.com/category/grow-journals/

Click to expand...

my man! thanks for the advice bud. iv been looking everywhere for info and all i can find is journals with little info on how they use the light. with hps, mh, cfl is all about how close you can get the bulb to the plant without burning. why does that change with led? does more light hit more area further away or what? im working with a lot smaller space then in the past so so had my other panel 2" away and my nodes were real tight. i figured tight nodes more buds but my question is are the buds going to be smaller because the nodes are tighter or will they just combine into one fat
cola?

jfart said:

ok just bought a pg 180 and i want to know the most efficient ways of using it.

i currently have a

-1 full spectrum 120 watt tri band led
-1 90 watt ufo
-2 45watt cfl
-3 2ft t8

i have a 4in duct coming from lid of rubber made sucking into the bottom of flower box through scrubber/inline and exhausts outside of building.

using a rubber made container as a veg box that i also put my aero cloner in occasionally when i take clones. currently have a 90 watt ufo in it with 5 thc bombs and 1 big bud x northern lights auto. they just put out their first set of leaves. this pic is from a old grow when i had 2 t8 in the box instead of the ufo but you get it. temps from 70 night time to 85 day time View attachment 2794675

my flower box currently has 1x full spectrum 120 watt tri band, 2x 45 watt cfl, and 1 t8. the current set up works fine but im looking to get some more dens buds and faster. the set up i have now takes a little bit to start flowering after 12/12. the flower box is a plastic cabinet 1.5ft by 3ft and 4ft tall. it has a 300cfm scrubber in top of box with a 750cfm adjustable inline outside of the box. the scrubber and a $30 ionizer covers 100% of the scent so far but only 3 weeks into flower. temps stays 75 to 80 degrees.
View attachment 2794688View attachment 2794698this is a old photo lights are not the same now.

i just bought a new pg180 and am pretty pumped to see how much better it yields compared to current set up. im looking for advice on how to use everything more efficiently.

questions
1. should i hang the pg180 directly above plants or at the top of the box always?
2. im not quite sure how the light switches work on the pg180. can i turn on veg lights on and flower lights on at the same time or are they used separately?
3. if so why not use all lights at all times?
4. if its better to use different settings what settings are used for what point of growth? obviously veg with veg light and flower when flowering but when would i use the full spectrum if i can?
5. how many plants could be grown properly under the pg180 alone.
6. would a sea of green or 1 to 4 well trained plants yield better in my set up? keep in mind that my veg and flower rooms arnt very big so its hard to veg for a long time. although with my current led panel produces nodes really tight. last crop was a sativa and only streched 4in to 6in under the 120 tri band.

Click to expand...

1) If it's your most powerful ight, I'd always keep it as my primary light, placed directly over my plants.
2) I always ease my plants into extra light. If your ladies are early in flower, or still in veg I'd use the blue/white switch for about a week - then turn the red side on as well.
3) You can! But mother natures light turns more red as flowering progresses, if you want to mimic that you should use the switches accordingly.
4) A little more explanation; I always end up using as much light as I can about 3-4 weeks into flower and that means using the full spectrum.
5) I would say 2 can be grown to a standard that I would deem acceptable. You could probably do 3 if it was 12/12 from seed. More if you did a SoG as well.
6) SoG would be great with LED, so is LST. I would recommend trying one larger, well trained and manicured plant as opposed to a few smaller ones. LED has a tendency of stopping stretching. It doesn't completely stop it, but it certainly does lessen it. Again, I'd definitely do LST, Scrog, 12/12/FS, or SoG, they take advantage of LED's 'sweet spot' for penetration the best.

i also have a question about the pg260x compared to the pg260. what make the 260x better. i know it has a lens or something but how does it work and why is it better? what is it used for?

also any tips on using the pg180 are appreciated.

Click to expand...

I don't own either, but the PG260 doesn't have secondary lenses. If the 260x does, they focus the light to a specific beam angle, which basically makes the light penetrate further into the canopy. Keep in mind, they also make the lights footprint smaller!

i dont need to hear any comments about buying a hps or mh. i have a 600 its cool but not going to work in my current set up.

thanks

Click to expand...

Good luck!

man i love this site. you guys are fucking great. wish it was legal to mail yall some Buddha for the advice. you know just to say thanks for the words of wisdom. they call me a dreamer but you know im not the only one.

so do you think it is beneficial at the end of flowering to turn off full spectrum and leave the flowering switch on or to keep it full spectrum till the end?

Right now, I'm using mine as side lighting so I run mine blue switch, then red switch. Not full spectrum.

If I was using it as a main light I'd run blue, then switch to full spectrum. I want muchos light for the ladies.