need exhaust tips on my 4x8 setup

Hey so I'm renting right now and id rather not cut a hole vent into the attic, unless its a easy repair. Could I vent it into the ducting of my house? I plan on using a 4x8 tent 2x 600s (will upgrade to 3 later with 454cfm fan and filter combo to draw air from the top of my tent and out thru the top, ill have a 4in fan on intake. Would humidity rise if I vented into the vent or would it disperse well? Any flaws w this setup?

midwestmmj said:

Hey so I'm renting right now and id rather not cut a hole vent into the attic, unless its a easy repair. Could I vent it into the ducting of my house? I plan on using a 4x8 tent 2x 600s (will upgrade to 3 later with 454cfm fan and filter combo to draw air from the top of my tent and out thru the top, ill have a 4in fan on intake. Would humidity rise if I vented into the vent or would it disperse well? Any flaws w this setup?

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Sittin in for this one to see what the masters have to say about this one lol, I was wondering the same thing. Venting two 600s thru the house ducting. You have sealed air cooled reflectors?

Live in a cold climate area? I'm able to cool 2k in a 4x8 with a 6in vortex with outside air and keep temps at 77-81, during the winter months here (oct-march). Drywall is easy to patch if you've already constructed a grow room.... Cooling the lights in a separate loop from the room's intake and exhaust gives you much more control over your environment IMO. If you have the resources vent the lights outside the room and the humidity being expelled will be the same as the other side of the ducting and your able to keep humidity and temp levels in the room tuned with less exhaust cycles and a smaller fan.

i see what your saying, when i do construct a room i will cool the lights seperate and run a more compex humidity and temp regulation. till then im just not sure whether to vent into the attic or house ducting, i constantly run my fan, no cycles or anything.

i ran em in heat ducting in basement, upstairs, to 1st level. why waste the heat, u pay for it...peace

well hooking the venting back up after your done would be the fix if your worrying about renovating the rental, and I dont know much about the stipulations of venting into the attic. Running your lights without plants will give you a good idea of your environment's weaknesses, without physical numbers its hard to say "where" your air needs to go. i run both outets (light and room exhaust) in to a seperate room outside of the grow through a door and all is good when I have cold (<45F) intake air

yea, i get it, currently i run a 4x4 600w temps at 70-85 high i know, i hate it, but it comes with venting right back into the room, im stepping up to 1200w 4x8 and with that will need to put the air elsewhere,imma give the attic a go that way i dont have the heat on during summer i guess trial and error right.

Yeah by removing that air completely your gonna be pumped on how stable temps stay. 85 isn't too bad if you can get a handle on increased co2... I have a 600 recycling air in my basement all day and it can't keep ambient temps above 65, almost heated my house with lights lol

i got 2k in a 4x8 tent with the scrubber filter hooked in line before the lights and vent the air back in to my house through attic door with ducting and a 8" fan, house temp constant 74* grow room temp 81* lights on, as for patching a hole in dry wall its super easy cost less then $20 for materials unless you got them laying around like i do lol, as for humidity i run a dehumidifier its set to 48% during veg and 44% for flower, the humidifier maintains the whole house, free heat during the winter, during the summer i disconnect the duct and vent straight in to my attic fan that runs of a set temp control hit 98* attic fan kicks on to vent attic space, never had a issue with smell even had leo standing at the door this morning cause some tweeker dumped his stolen bbq on my property

As forpatching a hole its drywall but its the popcorn style, is that difficult?

It isn't easy...It's not rocket science either if you're a little bit "handy" - BUT that being said, I was a house painter for a few years, and sometimes had to do ceiling repairs. If you go to any paint counter they sell popcorn ceiling repair stuff in a bucket. You buy a cheap brush and load one side with it, and kind of tap it onto the ceiling. You'll never get it to look perfect - meaning - YOU will be able to see it if you are looking for it.... and you should throw a coat of paint on the ceiling after you repair it..Or at the very least touch up the repair with some paint - cause it's more of a dull grey (like drywall mud kinda) than off white, but slap some flat white on it, and it'll just look "different".. the landlord isn't looking to see if the ceilings have been painted or see it and think "hey.. why does this spot look different?"
For all intents and purposes - if the land lord DID see it, and DID call you out.. just tell him you had a mentally challanged family member over who tried to stick a pool cue into the ceiling while you were "looking after them".. so you fixed it.
He'll think you are a great tennant for repairing it - so he didn't have to. You can TRUST that!

I vented into the attic in my old place.. just needed to tape the hole I cut in the vapor barrier in the ceiling and replace the drywall.. Whoever lives there now will never know it was ever there.

supper easy here is a link for a video just save the cut out when you cut your duct opening
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=patching+hole+in+popcorn+ceiling&view=detail&mid=2F3FC1AE2618DCE518852F3FC1AE2618DCE51885&first=0&FORM=LKVR12

you can buy popcorn texture in a spray can from lowes/home depot for $10