Need help deciding lights HPS 150 or HPS 400?

Im only flowering 2-4 plants.. which lights should I get?
Floralux 150 Watt Mini System or an HTG Supply 400 Watt System?
money wise the Floralux Mini 150 Watt System goes for around $100
and the HTG Supply 400 Watt System goes for $120. Will using the 400w system on only a couple plants increase yeilds opposed to the 150w system?

For $20 more you can't go wrong with the 400w .... you will get very nice buds with that ..... you will have to make sure you have a way of dispursing the heat .... that's the only problem with HPS lights .... they can make things hot ...
.... you will be very happy you got the 400w trust me .... it will make a big difference ... and if you want to expand with more plants you can.

Good luck with your growing .... remember overgrow the goverment!

Thanks, I guess the 400w lights are the ones then.. you think a standing fan would be sufficent enough to dispurse the heat? The plants are now about 10 inches high one top44 and one Purple Haze both at veg. how much yields should I expect if I flower at 10 inches or so.. I dont have too much room to flower later on?

koolfool456 said:

Thanks, I guess the 400w lights are the ones then.. you think a standing fan would be sufficent enough to disperse the heat? The plants are now about 10 inches high one top44 and one Purple Haze at veg. how much yields should I expect?

Click to expand...

You need to have some exhaust in your grow area the fan will help but with out good airflow it's gonna get hot. I haven't run my HPS this week it's just too damn hot outside, glad I had some cfls for back-up. How big is your area and does it have good ventilation? I have the same unit you are going to be buying it's really nice for the price.

Does that 400 watt system include an air cooled hood? That makes a huge difference.

Nope that is the problem but it's also why it's so cheap. I'm thinking about getting an ventilated light but it really only affects me during July and August it actually helps in the fall and winter. I grow in the basement. It's not that bad but anytime I go over 85 degrees I personally like to switch over to the cfls I don't want to make my plants work too hard. Do you know of any reasonably priced vented lights or can I just modify my hood?

Here's the unit
High Tech Garden Supply

Can't I jsu get some flanges and a cover and vent that way or does your light have to be set up for it? Sorry didn't mean to over take your thread but this will probably be something you would like to know.

Yo dude upgrade your hood if you want the vented light I now have to decide which hood to upgrade to
here is your options
High Tech Garden Supply

On Gygax1974 recommendation I went with the 400W system as well, and from what I am reading he hit it right on the head. It looks to be a great system, mine is being delivered on Wed. Ill keep in touch and let you know how my grow works works out wit this system

Im thinking of going with 400w HTG SUPPLY SYSTEM and the Euro Reflector
High Tech Garden Supply
what about you?

Go with the air cooled reflector,Later on you might want to use co2 and you already have a sealed light.You can exhaust the heat to where you want it too.This light works for all types of growing area.If you get the digital ballest you can run both MH&HPS blubs.Good luck and PEACE

if you get a 100cfm fan and a "bake-a-round" on ebay and some ducting... you can make a cool tube using the guide in the growfaq...

bakeround 10 bucks
fan 10 bucks or less
ducting 15 bucks or less

rough estimates...

b. Pyrex baking tube

(NIMBY) "Using a Pyrex (borosilicate glass) tube obtained from a glass blowing supply house or using a "Bake a Round" (eBay had a dozen for sale the last time I checked) one utilizes either one or two (pictured) 4" starter collars instead of the 5" to 4" reducer collars. They are 14" long and 3.75" in diameter."



"I stretched the aluminum ducting out and measured 16". I then snipped the metal "ribs" and cut the ducting open. The glass tube will now just drop into the long run of ducting. The electrial wires run to the remote ballast through the intake part of the duct (exhaust could also be used depending upon the location of the ballast). I measured 2" from each side of my original cut and snipped the metal ribs again but this time didn't cut the aluminum foil. This allows me to open the ducting up like a "wing"."



A couple of wraps of pipe wrap sealed with foil tape on each end you want to put a collar on should be used to keep from biting the metal directly into glass with the hose clamp (pictured). The socket is mounted inside the tube with pipe strapping just as in the hurricane style fixture. It can either be "clipped" and taped over the edge of the glass or better, pop riveted to the inside of the starter collar.

Simply stick the glass inside the end of the starter collar an inch or so past the bottom of the tabs to measure how far in to drill two holes 180 degrees apart, then use two pop rivets to attach the strapping

A note about pipe strapping: don't get the thin wimpy stuff. Get the thicker heavy-duty strapping. The heavy stuff is still relatively easy to bend but holds it's shape better and will hold the bulb and socket straight without sagging. At Home Depot they even have some copper pipe strapping (also known as “pipe tape" or “pipe hanger&#8221 that is quite stiff.

Ventilation Performance
There are many different ventilation options available, since standard household ducting is used in the construction of the fixture. For those folks with bigger boxes or rooms, ducting in and out, "inline" duct fans are probably the best option.

For my little NewGanjaBoy-style setup, using the Hurricane fixture as part of the ventilation system of my box, a 115cfm computer fan does the trick. As for actual performance specs for different blowers/fans and light wattages, I'm afraid you'll have to experiment.

i want to try a 250w hps to flower how much yield of 250 hps??