Need help identifying problem

Hello and thank you in advance for looking.

I am having trouble identifying and addressing the problem. I have 5 plants, two bubblicious (feminized seeds ordered from Nirvana) and three mystery seeds (came with bubbliscious order). These plants were transplanted Monday, October 19th from solo cups to one gallon containers in Vigoro organics potting soil mixed with potting soil from the local nursery. At the time of transplant the leaves were green and there was only drooping on one plant and a little yellowing on another, both mystery seeds. The bubbliscious was green and vibrant with no visable issues. After a couple days after transplant yellowing started to occur. I went to my local hydroponic shop and they suggested I add plant food. I picked up Fox Farm Liquid Plant Food Big Bloom. Thursday October 22 I mixed I tablespoon in with a gallon of distilled water pH 7 and watered all 5 plant, using a quart of water between the 5.
The plants have not improved and have gotten worse. Now there is brighter yellowing and browning of the tip leaves. The two bubiliscous that had no visible problems now has browing tip leaves that is spreading on more of the leaf.

I am extremely concerned. I have shuffled through this forum and others trying to find comparable pics but I am still not certain what the problem is.

The temperature range is 69-71 degress F at all times. The humidity is 43-46% RH.

Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Hello, IMO and I hope it helps, the babies like it a bit warmer then that, I run my babies at 77 to 84 F. Every time I lower temps they begin to yellow and wilt, I would also like to add, Water Temp at that age is very important, to keep it at room temp which should be temps above, Other than that, the Big Bloom should have gave enough Nitrogen but not to much used right to work out the yellowing , , be careful babies don't like a bunch of Nutes. Try warming them up a bit by raising the temps see If that starts to make a difference in a few days if not let us know, thanks for the Pics that always helps. Hope only the best for you .

First you have some nute burn. N causes the dead tips of leaves. Water with plain RO pH adjusted water several times well without nutes. There are enough in the medium to see them through that easily. Pot does NOT need fertilizers except for what they utilize in the soil itself. We are simply trying to replenish those minerals. However experienced growers can increase yield and/or plant health by reading the plants and responding with what they actually need and are using.

It looks like multiple issues. Why are you using distilled water and not tap? Big Bloom is more for flowering as it is low in nitrogen.

Tap water contains stuff your plants need such as calcium and magnesium. Just let it sit out for a day to clear off the chlorine content.

Another thing that can cause that look is light burn. How close are the lights?

ButchyBoy said:

It looks like multiple issues. Why are you using distilled water and not tap? Big Bloom is more for flowering as it is low in nitrogen.

Tap water contains stuff your plants need such as calcium and magnesium. Just let it sit out for a day to clear off the chlorine content.

Another thing that can cause that look is light burn. How close are the lights?

Click to expand...

Calcium and magnesium in tap water are large molecule that the plant is unable to take up adequately if at all. The Cal-Mag we use are small molecule. No tapwater if it is very hard. It raises your TDS and speeds up lockout.

So , from the gate it looks like too much N but unless the soil that you mentioned (which I am not familiar with) is loaded with food and high in the N and your feeding it N then there is no way that is possible. If anything its too little N and too much water. Calcium is not mobile in plants but semi mobile in soil. If your soil is lacking calcium and or magnesium they can look like this also. No calcium in soil, no calcium added = no calcium in plant.

hotrodharley said:

Calcium and magnesium in tap water are large molecule that the plant is unable to take up adequately if at all. The Cal-Mag we use are small molecule. No tapwater if it is very hard. It raises your TDS and speeds up lockout.

Click to expand...

I agree to an extent. My water is high in calcium which causes a magnesium lockout on a particular strain. If you use RO water you have to add it back with cal-mag.

ypu looks like classic nute burn from nitro and sum mag def. I agrre with hotrod water with sum ph adjusted water say 6.3 nute feeding for a say atleast a week the soil should have enough nutes the only other thing id do is maybe foliage feed with sum epsum salts lightly too

This is probably over fert, but the fert is also wrong. Big bloom is for the flowering stage of this plant, when you want to use a fert that is low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus. The numbers on the container are something like .01, .3, .7. The first number is for the nitrogen level, which is pretty low for plants in the vegetative stage, which is where these are at now. Veg is the upward growth period, or early part of life. When you put the plants to flower, you give them just 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness, to get their hormones to change from veg to flowering mode. This is when they start budding and producing the resin that the plant is famous for. The shop shouldn't have so you that particular fert, but maybe they didn't know better. We have people running hydro shops for their retail skills and relative cuteness than knowledge. They will sell you whatever you put on the counter. I've seen clerks sell people three different containers of flowering fert and fail to ask why this stuff was needed or make a suggestion. They are there to make money. Back to your issue. Distilled water you buy at a store can be used. I'd flush the soil some with it, or tap is fine. A tablespoon per gallon sounds like a lot to use, unless that's they directions call for. You have to be careful what you use, how much of it, and how often, especially in soil. The yellowing you were initially seeing may have been underfert or may have been over fert if the soil has fert in it. Leaves can go yellow for different reasons. It's unfortunate that you are told to buy a fert just due to yellowing. It seems like many of these plants are fert sensitive, perhaps due to the breeding process. So the lesson is, understand the soil first. If it has fert in it already, then you probably don't need to add much. Maybe late in the plants life you will. Then understand ferts. Different potting soils are different for a reason, usually the ferts they contain, so study those that are in your area and decide which to use. Info on the web says this about Vigoro soil:
"VIGORO Organic Garden soil feeds plants organically for 3 months. It is specially blended for vegetables, fruits, herbs, perennials, annuals, and all in-ground flower and garden beds."
This being the case, you don't need to add more fert. This is kind of a hot soil, with a fair amount of fert, so a flush is in order.

I had a typo in my post no feeding for a week not nute feeding my bad