Need HELP with HEAT ISSUES 2nd post...

Hey all,

I have a 2x4x8' room with a 600w mh/hps set up in a 6" cool tube. The cool tube is exhausted out of the house with a 6" in line 270 cfm fan. I also have another identical fan hooked up to a filter, high on one side of my room, and a 6" intake vent located on the opposite side of the room down low.
I'm running lights at night, still reaching 32.8 C or roughly 90F. I'm not opposed to buying another in line fan for induction, but I want to make sure it's the right option. Any and all help will be appreciated.

Maybe you need a bigger exhaust fan or what about your intake air where does it come from and what temperature is it. I see a lot of people just hook the filter up before your light that way you'd only need one exhaust fan

Shawns said:

Maybe you need a bigger exhaust fan or what about your intake air where does it come from and what temperature is it. I see a lot of people just hook the filter up before your light that way you'd only need one exhaust fan

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I originally ran one fan. Ran 95. I draw my air from another room that's never hotter then 72. Mostly 69-70.

do u have cool intake air going in to your cool tube
maybe due to your small space the light is too hot you might have to go with a 400

Shawns said:

do u have cool intake air going in to your cool tube
maybe due to your small space the light is too hot you might have to go with a 400

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Yeah you can touch the cool tube all day with out any trouble. I think my problem is the temperature of my fresh air for the room.

And if I end up changing light set ups, I'm going to go with EVO lighting and cree LEDs. Fuck the heat bullshit!

what about your ballast is it in the grow space ? if the cause of the heat is not your light then your fine there no need to change. you could try getting a bigger fan for the filter exhaust

Shawns said:

what about your ballast is it in the grow space ? if the cause of the heat is not your light then your fine there no need to change. you could try getting a bigger fan for the filter exhaust

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The ballast runs cool. And I've run it in and out. Neither effect the temperature. And I'm already running 270cfm in a 2x4' room bare minimum for that size is around 100cfm

Also it is definitely the light that heats the room. Even though it is cool to the touch it increases the room temp by 10-15 degrees. I run lights at night to help.

Where are you measuring temps?

If its in direct light from the lamp its gonna heat up and give a slightly false reading.

Just amongst the canopy between some shade leaves is a good indication of temps.

An ambient temp would also help. Take your temp gauge and put it near the outside of your plants perimeter.



J

jondamon said:

Where are you measuring temps?

If its in direct light from the lamp its gonna heat up and give a slightly false reading.

Just amongst the canopy between some shade leaves is a good indication of temps.

An ambient temp would also help. Take your temp gauge and put it near the outside of your plants perimeter.



J

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Canopy temp is .... Alright well I used my Hanna to read different areas in the shade and from below buckets all the way to above the light, it reads between 72.8 and 74.6.....so......idk lol

My thermo/hydro sits in the shade canopy level and is currently reading 88

Ok so lets do some simple math here ,so you have 2 270cfm fans exhausting the room, for the moment forget about the room size, 2x270=540cfm, now the air is being fan induced each ducted with its own 6'' round pipe,ok now lets see what you did for your intake of fresh air 6'' round , you have to understand there is a big dif from air movement that is fan induced vs just a opening (one induced ducting) this is the part where it is criticle as most people with no HVAC experience dont get , you need to supply the proper amount of fresh air (intake) cubic inches of space that will be able to handle the cubic feet per min, (CFM ) that your inducing by you fans. . 540 cfm requires at the min 10 round witch is really right on the edge of the proper sq in of air you need to let in reality I would use 12 round . to ensure you will get your room tem with in 2 deg of the room you are getting this air from. rite now you have only approx 40 sq inches of air that would be good for 150 cfm fan but thats it , you need min 100 sq inches of air. Hey but what do I know .

Get a exhaust fan with higher cfms and of u add one of those cheap window fans u know the one with to little fans a that fit in the frame it'll help the in going

Here's. A pic if I didn't describe it correctly just had the same problem with warmer nights

Let me put it in a simple way take a balloon blow it up think of the stretch that happens when you blow it up as the fan , let go of the end and the air is induced out where it came from just as fast as in came in now lets tie off that side and put a hole on the other side,let say a 1/4 the size of the other side ,nowtry to fill that balloon up with air as fast as you did when you blew it to the other side. now open the tied off end up again the air goes out just as fast but it took longer for you to fill the balloon with the smaller hole. now try and fill the balloon from the small hole to with the other end open , now do the oposite , Ya see what I am sayin here.

I also. Agree with jrain that would be a long term temp fix regardless of weather or

No disrespect but that is a typical growers bandaid approch to rectifying the real issue.

jrainman said:

No disrespect but that is a typical growers bandaid approch to rectifying the real issue.

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I'm not about quick cheap fixes. So introducing a portable ac in the fresh air draw room wouldn't fix the problem because there is not enough forced induction. Am I correct. I'll get a 4" 170cfm.....

None taken I consider my approach to be more of a cheap right now fix and ur suggestion to be a long term fix but I guess