ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking it's more likely a result of more light intensity than strain.
Nevergood's high power garden
- Thread starter nevergoodenuf
- Start date
Walterwhiter
Well-Known Member
What are those green lights you got going in the background? I heard or saw somthing somewhere about green lights and them not effecting plant growthOk, I got tired of chasing my old threads, so I am combining all my test lights in on thread.
I am now using 2 and 3 gallon Smartpots with Readygro Coco. I am using Cutting edge nutes, drain to waste with rain water. I have multiple strains, some flipped quick on shelves and others that are thicker under my high power lights.
The top shelf is running 8 Vero 29's on 2 cen-100-36s. I think there is 4 Gorilla Glues under that. The bottom shelf is 2 Veros @ 50 watts and 4 China Bridgelux COBs @ 25 watts each, with 3 GGs under it.
The highest power fixture I have build draws 700 at the wall and uses 2 Luna 300s on 2 HLG320s. It is over a 4'x5' area for the first run with 12 OGs. With a Lux Meter this light @ 30" is equal to a Gavita @ 36". I have it @ 40" and will let the plants grow up to the light. They didn't light the light @ 32" the first day, but I didn't want to dim it, so I raised it. If I can get over 1.2 GPW then I will build more this way. For some reason I can't get some of my pictures to upload, but they both look like the one in the picture.
The other Luna fixture is very similar but is run off of 2 HLG 240s, I will soon be getting my Citizen CLU550 and with test the output of the Luna fixture @ 500 watts against a similar fixture with the CLU550 at the say wattage.
The last light I have is a 500 watt stadium light that I removed the 2 HLG 240s and now use one HLG 320 to increase output per watt. 500 watts was just to intense for a single point, even with the reflector.
Powering the room, all the drivers will eventually be in the attic with a dimming panel in the room. I will just have a bunch of leads, all tagged with wattage, running into the room. All my drivers are wired together with one plug per set.
Rayne
Well-Known Member
Going off of the leaves that are "Clawing" down there may be too much nitrogen that is causing the potassium deficiency.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I'm not inclined to agree, since there's no clawing on the young leaves. That's the nitrogen tox giveaway and I'm not seeing it.
More K. Consider using MKP as it also adds phosphorus and you're in mid bloom.
Rayne
Well-Known Member
I am looking at the older leaves.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
looks like zink - but i would start by testing runoff and see where your at.could just be overloaded or should i say built up.its the other leaves that makes me think it may be over loaded with salts/nutes.even bad ph can make K lock out,its tough to tell the difference between a K problem and Zn - but most canna specific nute lines have plenty of K but alot are lacking in Zn
URSA LED
Well-Known Member
Hi All,
Results are in from the lab, and nevergoodenuf has a copy of the % of the THC grown under our lights with terpene analysis as well.
The lab results look great! I'll let him talk about it if he wants too
Our team has tested it (second part), and it is comparable to top shelf mid-range you get at the dispensaries.
PM for flavor and more info.
Results are in from the lab, and nevergoodenuf has a copy of the % of the THC grown under our lights with terpene analysis as well.
The lab results look great! I'll let him talk about it if he wants too
Our team has tested it (second part), and it is comparable to top shelf mid-range you get at the dispensaries.
PM for flavor and more info.
CocoTwisty
Active Member
I agree the way the leaves are brown and crispy on the edges, then yellow, then light green then green in the middle looks just like the progressed K deficiency. (Doesn't look like bleaching or N toxicity to me.) According to the Cannabis Encyclopedia for K Deficiency:
"1. Older leaves turn pale and suffer chlorosis
2. Leaf margins, tips turn rusty color and "burn"
3. Stems often become weak, scrawny and sometimes brittle
4. Stem branching may increase
5. Flowering retarded and diminished
Deficiency: Potassium deficiencies are common in indoor gardens, less common in greenhouses, and somewhat common outdoors. Potassium deficiency causes the internal temperature of foliage to climb; beyond 104F (40C) it causes protein cells to burn and degrade. To cool down leaves, evaporate moisture. Evaporation is normally highest on leaf edges, and that's where the burning takes place. Up to 70% of a plant's energy is "burned" to keep cool.
Cause: Potassium is usually present but fixed or bound in humus-rich and clay soils, often locked in by toxic fertilizer (salt) buildup. Excess sodium in the water source that has built up in soil; calcium, magnesium, phosphorous and cold weather impair uptake of potassium.
Confused with: Endema (an abnormal accumulation of fluids) or spots caused by bacteria or fungi. Absorption of magnesium, manganese, and sometimes zinc and iron is also slowed. Burned leaf margins are also caused by low humidity and overall fertilizer (salt) burn.
Solution: Leach the toxic salt out of the soil by leaching heavily with clean water. Apply a well-balanced N-P-K fertilizer with high potassium content. Organic gardeners add fast-acting potassium in the form of liquid kelp or potash. Potassium is absorbed quickly and deficiency symptoms should disappear in a few days. Add slow-acting granite dust and greensand to outdoor planting holes."
Just double-checking my thought process since it's pretty much along the lines of this: You have a history of overfeeding and burning your plants with synthetics (when I was running pure coco in 17-gallon rope tubs I never exceeded 1.6 EC / 800 ppm (on the 500 ppm scale) in a single feeding and my plants were over 5' diameter wide & tall LST'd bushes.)
So it's possible that this strain is such a K hog that your usual recipe is unable to keep up with the demand, but IMO it's way more likely that you are overfeeding and causing it to become unavailable.
My solution would be to flush at least 3-5 gallons of water per gallon of pot size through them, then feed 1-2 TBSP per gallon Herculean Harvest pH'd to 6.5 to tie up the remaining excess salts, along with whatever beneficial bacteria innoculant you have (Microbe Life Photosynthesis Plus/Yield Enhancer, SLF-100, Great White, etc) since you will need them to break down these organic compounds before your plant can access them again.
I might accompany this with a foliar spray of liquid kelp or Uncle John's Blend if you have that so your girls get the K they need instantly, depends on how late into flower you are but it looks like it would be safe if you tried to just hit the leaves you should be able to get enough into your plants.
Personally I like to wait for the HH to take effect and check out the new growth before I feed them again but I don't have a whole lot of experience with synthetics so if it was me in this case I would be worried there is still plenty left in the medium and I would probably end up doing a slurry test to see how much is still in there after the flush before I go feeding again, if i did feed it would be 1/4 strength or 1/2 strength of the previous feed at the most.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I would say, with Citizen, no binning, to get the 90cri. It cost the same, but since I am using the
CLU058 3618's, 90cri is as high as I can get.
CLU058 3618's, 90cri is as high as I can get.
CobKits
Well-Known Member
hey @nevergoodenuf what heat sinks are those? they have fans at that wattage i assume
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
They are Flip/Starlite for the Luna 300. Since they come from over seas, I usually have a month or so wait every time. I also have to redrill and tap everyone for the Citizen so far. I hope to have the next batch predrilled. I am looking to have the output tested along with the temps. Any suggestions in Northern California. I am trying to get CDI to have these approved by Citizen, but he thinks I am asking as a grow light. I am looking to see actual lumen and tC.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Had a chance to clean up some of the dead leaves on 3 of them. The buds are still very dense and sticky and should have a couple weeks left. Since I am not totally sure what OG strain this is, I will just have to keep watching. I will try to get the rest cleaned up tomorrow.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Sorry they fried, brother. Not every crop can be the best ever- unless it's the only one ever, lol
I looked back but didn't see the diagnosis, can you share what happened?
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
No updated pictures until later. They still look like crap and I am fighting a small group of spider mites, so I don't what to add anything else to the room until this harvest is done. I will have to bomb the room a couple times before I will continue. I do like the wall setup and still should pull over .7 grams per watt, but not as good in the 2'x4' tray. These are still guesses. The buds are still rock hard and sticky, but again I have destroyed the chance of any real weigh on these. My next run will be going back to soil and water only.
Since I am planning to do a short veg and run at around 100 watts per COB, I will do another CRI shootout. I will utilize the vertical grow and the long tray I already have in place, but change the 2'x4' tray to another 4'-5' of vertical grow. This will give me 6 2' wide sections of wall. I will be getting a few samples from Citizen in about 3 weeks and will have multiple COB options. Here are a few I will have=
CLU058 3618 5000K 70 CRI ( or I could do 6500K 80 CRI)
CLU058 3618 3500K 80 CRI
CLU058 3618 3500K 90 CRI
CLU058 3618 4000K 90 CRI
Luna 300 3200K 95+ CRI
Luna 300 3000K 80 CRI
I will run 1 or 2 plants per light, depending on what strain I get. Maybe 4 per section with a shorter veg????? We will see what I come up with.
Since I am planning to do a short veg and run at around 100 watts per COB, I will do another CRI shootout. I will utilize the vertical grow and the long tray I already have in place, but change the 2'x4' tray to another 4'-5' of vertical grow. This will give me 6 2' wide sections of wall. I will be getting a few samples from Citizen in about 3 weeks and will have multiple COB options. Here are a few I will have=
CLU058 3618 5000K 70 CRI ( or I could do 6500K 80 CRI)
CLU058 3618 3500K 80 CRI
CLU058 3618 3500K 90 CRI
CLU058 3618 4000K 90 CRI
Luna 300 3200K 95+ CRI
Luna 300 3000K 80 CRI
I will run 1 or 2 plants per light, depending on what strain I get. Maybe 4 per section with a shorter veg????? We will see what I come up with.
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
"My next run will be going back to soil and water only.":
plus no bugs
plus no bugs
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I was just about to ask how your vert is coming along.
Safer insecticidal soap does a great job on spidermites for me.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Sorry I haven't had anything to post but pics of ugly flowers. The wall will be producing much more than the 2'x4' tray, but I gave up on both a while ago. The wall is already cut down and hanging, so I just need to cut down the tray and do a bleach cleaning and maybe replace the panda plastic on the walls. I am getting 12 teens today, that will go into 3 gallon cloth pots with 420 soil and Mykos. This will be all organic, just water and tea.
I am hoping that the new COBs come in before I am ready to flower. I think I will be getting an OG, so I should be able to do 2 per 100 watts or so with dividers between each light.
I am hoping that the new COBs come in before I am ready to flower. I think I will be getting an OG, so I should be able to do 2 per 100 watts or so with dividers between each light.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Are those citi CLU-058's in your avatar?