New grow room I just built but have quesrtions

abuilder

Well-Known Member
P1010180.jpgP1010179.jpgP1010178.jpg
Framed in new walls and dropped in a ceiling in my basement creating a room with 7'3" ceiling. The length is about 11 and a 1/2 feet long by 4'3" wide and juts out after 6' another 2' wider making it about 6x11 1/2 at the widest point but I'll be using it first where you see that aluminum bench is where it's 4' +wide. I have a pretty nice tube light thats 30" long with a nice sized reflector over it. I have a fan in that right wall thats sucking/pulling the air "out of my ducting. It happened to already be there. It used to suck out air from a stove vent on the floor above so it's pretty powerful. almost too powerful actually if thats possible. It's not "that" noisy and it came with the house so.....Be nice if I "knew" what could slow it down. It's about 30++ years old I think. I put a Y fitting on both sides of the duct. I figure one will suck the air through my tube light and the other part of the y's will...one end on the right will suck the air from the room out. It's up high above where my planst will be and the other side on the left I have another duct with a 250 fan blowing air in .

I painted the room with a very white flat paint but I'm thinking mylar would be better? thats question one. I found a 2 mil mylar on amazon for just under $50 for a 100 ft rollx48"
What ya'll think of that?

The ceiling I used what's called "reflective" white ceiling tiles but still...would mylar be better over it?

and the floor??
Am I wasting time and money on the mylar? This mylar "claims" to reflect 98% of the light but I'm skeptical of that number....but it'd still probably be better than just the white paint. Is it worth doing? 50bucks aint bad.

Also...I know I have to keep the fan on the ducting that goes through my light tube so as not to burn my plants but how often do I need to keep the fresh air fan going...if at all. Once in a while??

I have to still get an oscillating floor fan but thats no biggie.

I have a 600Watt MH bulb in the light now thats adjustable to cut the watts up to half and less. I hung a metal pipe from the ceiling and painted it white so I can slide my light side to side if I need to and it's hung on ratchet rope so I can lower it.
When I put my seedlings under it should I keep it on all the time at full 600Watts or a bit more than half that wattage? I'm talking just when they're seedings. I know it should be about a foot to a foot and a half when my plants get larger...and at full 600Watts then. I'm just wondering whats best for seedlings. I'm about to sprout them in a day or so. I have Barneys LSD seeds and Violator Kush ...(side note: I noticed...after the fact that not too many people loved the LSD...ugh)

Also...whats the best (for the money under about thirty bucks(ish) soil tester kit either digital or liquid? I'd prefer digital because it's easier and cheaper in the long run but most all the reviews seem to suck from what I've seen.

Gonna use FF nutes. I'm thinking the gallons in the three pack might be a lot cheaper than qts. I see three one gallon containers on Ebay for about $140. Or should I start with the 3 pack of qts? I am trying to go easy on my wallet right now...but in the long haul.....?

anything else this indoor newbie is missing here?
Thanks everyone
abuider
edit: one last and important thing...how many plants do you think I can grow under that light with the seeds I have? It'd be in the 4'3" wide area
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
Thanks Dalek...so, so far you're the second person that suggested to stay with flat white paint which is what I've painted my room with. It's called "ultra"white and is the whitest paint I've seen to date so.....so I reckon I'm good to go on that. The floor however is concrete so I'm thinking of buying a 4x8 sheet of foil faced 1/2" foam from the box store. The cost is only ten bucks. It fits perfectly....just wondering about how f'd up it'll get walking over it to tend to my plants but for ten bucks...I'm thinking I need the floor to stay warm under the pots and reflect light back up under the canopy of leaves. MAke sense..or is that over kill. the only other thing I can think of is to paint the floor with a silver roof paint but I really don't wanna spend more dough and the time. I've already spent weeks building this space...enough is enough. I always go overkill...lol....
One other thing...yeh sure..lol...is...how many plants do you think I should "start" and how many could I grow under this light I haveP1010181.jpg? I know for this 600W tube over 50sq ft ain't a good idea and it's only 4' wide and the tube is 30" long-ish. It's about a 30"x30" cool tube with a pretty nice reflector over it and the area is 4'3" wide and 11feet long. 5-6 plants under it sound right? or is that too many? If I want 5-6 plants how many seeds do you suggest I try and sprout? I keep reading to expect 25% of the seeds not to make it??? The seeds I have are Barney's LSD and their Violator Kush. Hate to have more $eed$ $prout than I have room for. and is it a bad idea to use half of the Kush and half of the LSD or would that be ok. I'd think it'd be fine. I'd like a little variety to look forward to.
Thanks again brutha!
 

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
I use a semi-gloss so the walls can be easily cleaned plus block mold from getting in the drywall if you happen to get an outbreak. Also when it is time to clean and bomb the room before the next cycle, the room will be sterile.
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
I use a semi-gloss so the walls can be easily cleaned plus block mold from getting in the drywall if you happen to get an outbreak. Also when it is time to clean and bomb the room before the next cycle, the room will be sterile.
Everything I read about white painted walls says specifically not to use semi gloss..which i why I didn't. Every article and post I read says semi gloss only reflect about 50-60% of the light.
One idea I just had is to use paint that is specifically for children's rooms b/c it does in fact have anti mold and fungus additives in it. Actually...now that I think about it...they sell a bottle of stuff you can add to any paint that does that because I remember a ways back I used it in paint for a bathroom I did.
Here's just one post that may be of interest to you. http://www.420magazine.com/forums/how-grow-marijuana/71077-what-reflective-materials-can-i-use-my-grow-room.html
Thanks bro
edit...no idea why the links not taking me to this...[h=2]What Reflective Materials can I use for my Grow Room?[/h]
Choosing the right surface for the walls of your grow room is very important, as up to 40% of your total yield comes from the edge, and the right wall surface can increase the amount of light those plants receive by up to 30%! Artificial lighting diminishes exponentially with distance, so it is important to ‘contain’ as much of this light as possible, and direct it accordingly. Reflective surfaces also help illuminate the lower portions of the garden, providing lower buds with light and heat energy.

To get the best results with your light and walls, it is important to get the walls as close as possible to your garden to ensure the least amount of light is wasted. As a caveat, the percentages provided are only useful as a general guideline, as they present the range of reflectivity of the particular surfaces. The high percentage presents the best possible circumstances for that material (for example a 99% reflectivity rating for mylar sheeting would be under ideal conditions - no creases, completely flat, no discoloration, etc).

The best way to determine how well your grow room walls reflect light would be to purchase a light meter and measure your light directly; then take an opaque board and hold it a few inches off one of your walls with the light meter below the board in such a fashion that the light reflects off the wall and onto the light meter. You can then compare the difference between the two and determine a percentage from those numbers, the closer the two numbers are, the better your wall reflects light. It is important that in both measurements, your light meter is the same distance from the light, otherwise your results will be skewed.

Also important to note is that radiant light energy refers to electromagnetic (EM) radiation with a wavelength between 400-700 nanometers (nm) and radiant heat energy correlates to EM radiation with a wavelength between 800-2000nm.

Listed below are some of the most commonly used materials used for grow room walls:



Foylon:
A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.



Mylar:
A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:
A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:
Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

Elastomere paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ Lowe's Home Improvement

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or don’t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenter’s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.



Emergency Blankets:
These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is que​
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
get another light and build them into the ceiling
hahaha..yeh...I wish...have an extra few hundred bucks for me...lol. Eventually I guess. I actually bought an extra socket with my ballast thinking I'd make another tube light but it's not the fixture thats so expensive...it's the ballast along with it. Hopefully down the road I will.
I built my room with an acoustical drop ceiling and actually did think to lift the light fixture up into it...which I could down the road if need be but for now it's about seven feet high which should be ok...especially being it's a cool tube light as you might have seen in some of the photos I posted so I can keep the light pretty close to the plant as long as my fan is running through it. I also fastened a metal pipe along the ceiling that I painted white as well and hung my cool tube to that with ratchet ropes. this way I can slide it down the pipe if need be. thanks robert!
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
You will want the root zone a lil cooler and insultaing the floor is silly.you can insulate each pot if the floor is that cold.
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
You will want the root zone a lil cooler and insultaing the floor is silly.you can insulate each pot if the floor is that cold.
I guess I thought about laying the foam on the concrete b/c I was thinking about the trays to sprout seeds and how some are heated but after reading your post I figure the warm trays haven't anything to do with the roots...but more about the seeds. the other and main reason I thought of the foil faced foam boards was the reflect-ability factor and having the lights above reflect the light back up "under" the canopy of leaves....but once again thats probably unnecessary and as usual I always over-do everything.
thanks for the slap upside my head Dalek...I need that occasionally :)
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
Search Youtube for grow room basics.
Trust me..I have to the point my head is swimming...lol...I actually think I have too much information. so many people do it so differently you just don't know which way to turn almost but I've pretty much narrowed it down and my beans will go into the cooker tomorrow.
oh...and btw...youtube was where I saw the foil faced foam idea. I must have watch a billion youtubes on this already and you know how that goes...you're watching one project then see in the side bar something else you never thought about so you watch that...then that leads to something else and before you know it it's 3 a.m in the morning and you have to wake up in 3 more hours...hahahaha.. Can you tell I'm outta the ganja? ugh
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
I have watched that b4.Get a grow goin and things fall into place.
Thats prolly the best advice you can give someone...after they know the basics!
Sittin' on the thrown in my library this morning :) I had Ed Rosenthals book out and got to reading about pruning and flattening one side of the plant so you can keep it closer to the wall..and lollipopping....I got to figuring that it's good to at least have these ideas in my head now but I neednt absorb every single solitary detail otherwise I'll make myself crazy with questions...so yeh..as you said...get "some basic" info...and get to growin! Thanks Dalek...today I christen my room with Barney :)
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
OK, I have one question... I just put 5 LSD and 3 Violator Kush in my sprouter tray. Once they hatch I'm going to put each peat pellet with the sprouted seed into a clear plastic drinking cup with a cpl of holes drilled into the bottom of each one and added soil then bring them into my grow room.
My light/ballast is a DIMMABLE 600 watter.
I can keep it at 100% power-75% power- or 50% power. What would you keep it at to start with?
Thanks again!!
 

abuilder

Well-Known Member
no way...mylar doesnt get hot, anyway why would your mylar have creases in it..
I was wondering that myself..about creases...I guess he means if it's just hanging loosely it might but tacked up against a wall I doubt it...and he is right about hotspots...from all I've read it's one thing to be aware of. I'm even considering spray painting the dark colored pots I have with non toxic white paint..actually thats something Jorge suggested in his book. Probably overkill but at the price of seeds these daze...
 
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