Did you post a pic of the boards? I remember seeing the heatsink. All the boards are 304 diodes each right? I'm assuming that's why you called it a 304The 4 boards came with the heatsink and drivers..(and the boards were actually mounted on the heatsink already) so really all I had to do is plug the cables together using wago connector (easy) and wire to the board just slide the wires in the connectors I mean a 6yrs old kid could have done it.. didnt need to order from different places got it all together and ready to go...
Yes there is other options.. but if you read the thread people are complaining because I purchased from china instead of usa and claiming im missing on maybe 10-20% efficiency out of the most efficient light available on the market its no big deal to me and provide a nice option for those looking to go for LED or newer grower thats all my saying.. but hey its like dallas cowboy fan.. haters gonna hate
New style Samsung LM561C Board
- Thread starter chuckduck
- Start date
Viceman666
Well-Known Member
nc208
Well-Known Member
No one cares if you buy from China. This thread was about showing Chuck ducks boards he got from Alibaba, which turned into comparing lm561c s5 to s6 to lm561b+. Most ppl were complaining about being told they were getting lm561c s6 and an s5 or b+ being put on instead.The 4 boards came with the heatsink and drivers..(and the boards were actually mounted on the heatsink already) so really all I had to do is plug the cables together using wago connector (easy) and wire to the board just slide the wires in the connectors I mean a 6yrs old kid could have done it.. didnt need to order from different places got it all together and ready to go...
Yes there is other options.. but if you read the thread people are complaining because I purchased from china instead of usa and claiming im missing on maybe 10-20% efficiency out of the most efficient light available on the market its no big deal to me and provide a nice option for those looking to go for LED or newer grower thats all my saying.. but hey its like dallas cowboy fan.. haters gonna hate
Your right the 10-20% difference ain't much. For myself, it's the principle behind ordering something and getting what you pay for. Hey if your happy with your boards and saved some money then that's what matters. My strips from Alibaba grew some good pot.
Theirongrow
Member
Yes, get rich at the cost of cheating half the world? good practices!
As everything that comes from the Chinese scammers, they seem to be something that in the end are never what they say.
Here in this same thread and live has been seen as several Chinese scammers scam several customers, without going any further yourself
and you say that these chips are C S6? you can clearly see that they are lm561b + but maybe they are even good bin since they are cheap and better than C.
Original Lm561C S6
but what is clear is that this yours does not look anything like a C and it is clear that it is B +. that is to say they returned to scam you too and the worst you think that they did not scam you,
We still did not see a board of these scamers with original chips and how many are already scammed?
they are all the same Hansion, Meiju, R2T, all a band of scammers,
it does not matter if you put the link the greedy Chinese or any of you who use it to do it doing discounts or other scams in the end the link fulfills its purpose which is to have in this forum publicity of its scams
PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
let's keep it civil fellas 
awesome thread!
awesome thread!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I spoke to Roget of Mufue Technique a few days ago about LED strips in 3k/CRI90 and send him a few example pictures and he complained that Meizu and R2T had stolen the designs for the 400x 300mm (Q)boards and LED strips. He actually advised me not to do business with thieves, LOL! I sent him a nice greeting from HLG and ended the conversation.
Zitat:
Hi O...., The first two pictures in your attachment are the pictures of the company stealing the original products of samsung. They have also stolen our 400X300 LM561C board. If you work with them, I can only wish you good luck. Best regards, Roget.
Hehe, one scammers accuse another scammer to be a scammer, LOL!
I believe I'll better use some good brand COB's in CRI90 before I trust any of these scammers.
Although..!? Without a design patent, it's hard to protect such a product and these patents are expensive, especially if it's supposed to apply worldwide. Let's see, maybe I'll order a few sample strips anyway just to see what I get.
Zitat:
Hi O...., The first two pictures in your attachment are the pictures of the company stealing the original products of samsung. They have also stolen our 400X300 LM561C board. If you work with them, I can only wish you good luck. Best regards, Roget.
Hehe, one scammers accuse another scammer to be a scammer, LOL!
I believe I'll better use some good brand COB's in CRI90 before I trust any of these scammers.
Although..!? Without a design patent, it's hard to protect such a product and these patents are expensive, especially if it's supposed to apply worldwide. Let's see, maybe I'll order a few sample strips anyway just to see what I get.
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
Yay..
Schalalala
Active Member
Nice brother!
PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
yay me! postman just delivered 1) soldering iron kit, 2) digital multimeter, 3) Arduino beginner's breadboard electronics kit with heaps of parts, looks fun! and 4) digital camera (until now ive only had a flatbed scanner - i proudly don't have an annoying phone! would've been nice to get it yesterday tho so i could photo last night's rare Super Blue Blood Moon!). I love the postman/woman!
The electronics breadboard beginner kit also looks like it'd be an awesome bday/xmas present for kids, was only $19 [link] but comes with heaps of bits:
Still waiting on a couple others including potentiometers and thermometer gun and lumen meter (interesting to see how the QB compares to my Mars II and Viparspectra), but at least now I can tackle the soldering issue with the misbehaving Molex connector, so hopefully I'll have a board up and running later today ... I'm nearly one of us!!! lol
Old Mother Sativa, looks sweet mate! 20 x 17 = 340 leds per board, nice! i like the even spacing too
The electronics breadboard beginner kit also looks like it'd be an awesome bday/xmas present for kids, was only $19 [link] but comes with heaps of bits:
Still waiting on a couple others including potentiometers and thermometer gun and lumen meter (interesting to see how the QB compares to my Mars II and Viparspectra), but at least now I can tackle the soldering issue with the misbehaving Molex connector, so hopefully I'll have a board up and running later today ... I'm nearly one of us!!! lol
Old Mother Sativa, looks sweet mate! 20 x 17 = 340 leds per board, nice! i like the even spacing too
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PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
WOOHOO!!! I did it! QB board up and running ... I'm one of us!!! haha
I undid the socket screws on the board, but it turns out that's unnecessary - the base of the board is plain and flat, no solder to access.
So I tried to de-solder the Molex connector from the top, but it wouldn't budge, it seems there's a decent amount of solder underneath it, not just either side. However I had already broken the top part off it earlier (the ~2mm x 4mm lever part) ... so inside you can see two 'gates' diagonally closed toward each other like / \, which opens up a bit as you push the exposed wire tip through /|\, but I could see a lot of solder inside too. Anyway by keeping the soldering tip near the gates and pushing the wire in at the same time, eventually it freed up and she went through normally... phew!! So i believe the reason I couldn't use this particular Molex connector is some excess solder had fixed one or both of the gates in place. Then a bit of solder on top for extra peace of mind / justice. Problem solved, though it'd be nice if i didn't have to break the top lever off the connector, but I can't see a way to de-solder it seeing as it's seemingly soldered on its base.
Then I grabbed a fire blanket and put some safety glasses on haha, and plugged the power in ... nothing exploded and I wasn't electrocuted which felt surreal haha, and then WHOA!! so bright! Success!!! I unplugged it pretty much straight away then, as that was the 6500k veg board which i don't really need at the moment ... anyway now to try the same fix on the 3000k flower board so I can start using it tonight!
THANKYOU everyone who's contributed to this freakin awesome thread and especially those who've been patient and generous with their expertise and personally helped me and some of the other electronics newbies, it's super exciting to step up to this new level of efficiency thanks to the Sammy LM561C's - hey we've all gotta do our part for the environment
I undid the socket screws on the board, but it turns out that's unnecessary - the base of the board is plain and flat, no solder to access.
So I tried to de-solder the Molex connector from the top, but it wouldn't budge, it seems there's a decent amount of solder underneath it, not just either side. However I had already broken the top part off it earlier (the ~2mm x 4mm lever part) ... so inside you can see two 'gates' diagonally closed toward each other like / \, which opens up a bit as you push the exposed wire tip through /|\, but I could see a lot of solder inside too. Anyway by keeping the soldering tip near the gates and pushing the wire in at the same time, eventually it freed up and she went through normally... phew!! So i believe the reason I couldn't use this particular Molex connector is some excess solder had fixed one or both of the gates in place. Then a bit of solder on top for extra peace of mind / justice. Problem solved, though it'd be nice if i didn't have to break the top lever off the connector, but I can't see a way to de-solder it seeing as it's seemingly soldered on its base.
Then I grabbed a fire blanket and put some safety glasses on haha, and plugged the power in ... nothing exploded and I wasn't electrocuted which felt surreal haha, and then WHOA!! so bright! Success!!! I unplugged it pretty much straight away then, as that was the 6500k veg board which i don't really need at the moment ... anyway now to try the same fix on the 3000k flower board so I can start using it tonight!
THANKYOU everyone who's contributed to this freakin awesome thread and especially those who've been patient and generous with their expertise and personally helped me and some of the other electronics newbies, it's super exciting to step up to this new level of efficiency thanks to the Sammy LM561C's - hey we've all gotta do our part for the environment
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PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
btw, seeing as the base of the board is flat i was wondering if using thermal paste would be worth the effort?
PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
true, but CPUs also have a flat base but are always pasted to their heatsink (ok not a very fair comparison) so while paste isn't needed for QB's maybe it could still be worth it? i've already ordered one of those laser thermometer guns, and i successfully found the right-sized allen key for the QB's socket screws lol, so I'm tempted to try thermal paste under 1 of the 2 QB-304's attached to a single heatsink (i love side-by-side experiments!). I won't be able to determine if it lowers the overall chamber temperature though, doh. Hrmm *rubs chin* lol - hot summer here btw so I can't help but think about these things
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ANC
Well-Known Member
Lol, you need a hot air soldering station for that (or mask of the area and use a hot air gun.WOOHOO!!! I did it! QB board up and running ... I'm one of us!!! haha
I undid the socket screws on the board, but it turns out that's unnecessary - the base of the board is plain and flat, no solder to access.
So I tried to de-solder the Molex connector from the top, but it wouldn't budge, it seems there's a decent amount of solder underneath it, not just either side. However I had already broken the top part off it earlier (the ~2mm x 4mm lever part) ... so inside you can see two 'gates' diagonally closed toward each other like / \, which opens up a bit as you push the exposed wire tip through /|\, but I could see a lot of solder inside too. Anyway by keeping the soldering tip near the gates and pushing the wire in at the same time, eventually it freed up and she went through normally... phew!! So i believe the reason I couldn't use this particular Molex connector is some excess solder had fixed one or both of the gates in place. Then a bit of solder on top for extra peace of mind / justice. Problem solved, though it'd be nice if i didn't have to break the top lever off the connector, but I can't see a way to de-solder it seeing as it's seemingly soldered on its base.
Then I grabbed a fire blanket and put some safety glasses on haha, and plugged the power in ... nothing exploded and I wasn't electrocuted which felt surreal haha, and then WHOA!! so bright! Success!!! I unplugged it pretty much straight away then, as that was the 6500k veg board which i don't really need at the moment ... anyway now to try the same fix on the 3000k flower board so I can start using it tonight!
THANKYOU everyone who's contributed to this freakin awesome thread and especially those who've been patient and generous with their expertise and personally helped me and some of the other electronics newbies, it's super exciting to step up to this new level of efficiency thanks to the Sammy LM561C's - hey we've all gotta do our part for the environment
PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
I do have a hot air gun! arrived in the post two days ago along with some heat shrinkwrap cable sleeves lol
But it makes me cringe thinking about putting a hot air gun to a QB - the Molex connectors are very close to the LEDs, i had to cross my legs just to type this.
ps. I'm not saying the suggestion is incorrect or anything, but you can see i probably should stick to software not hardware haha
This is fun though, QB's have sparked my enthusiasm to learn electronics for the first time, and that's priceless.
Breadboard and 9V zaps here I come!
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PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
whoa!! i thought the only hotpoints during manufacture were the solder points - the whole thing (LEDs and all) gets oven-baked!?
ANC
Well-Known Member
How do you think they solder the LEDs on?
They should be good for 2 or 3 heat cycles.
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/products/201607/Data_Sheet_LM561C_Rev.7.0.pdf
Check page 27
b) Manual Soldering Conditions Not more than 5 seconds @ max. 300 ºC, under soldering iron
They should be good for 2 or 3 heat cycles.
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/products/201607/Data_Sheet_LM561C_Rev.7.0.pdf
Check page 27
b) Manual Soldering Conditions Not more than 5 seconds @ max. 300 ºC, under soldering iron