new to dwc, high res temps

J

jonjon777

Active Member
so as of lately I've decided to go to DWC using totes and bubble bucket . I also up the annie and added several lights. so this scale is quite new to me too, 4-6 kW pending temps. at the moment I'm still using my old ventilation systems well I install AC, as of today resi temperatures are climbing, they hittin uncomfortable 77 which worries me, I stuck in some frozen water bottles and they went back down. obviously the AC is going to help this and also running a low dose of bleach...

but I was curious to more information, I would like to try all these buckets together and use a chiller, but with 24 buckets and 12 totes, I'm not quite sure.. by the way I'm going to flood tables this summer, I plan on chilling.

there has to be some cool little tricks besides frozen water bottles... is there any kind of cooling probe?

I'm open to any suggestions, definitely appreciated, thank you
 
T

TWS

Well-Known Member
jonjon777 said:
so as of lately I've decided to go to DWC using totes and bubble bucket . I also up the annie and added several lights. so this scale is quite new to me too, 4-6 kW pending temps. at the moment I'm still using my old ventilation systems well I install AC, as of today resi temperatures are climbing, they hittin uncomfortable 77 which worries me, I stuck in some frozen water bottles and they went back down. obviously the AC is going to help this and also running a low dose of bleach...

but I was curious to more information, I would like to try all these buckets together and use a chiller, but with 24 buckets and 12 totes, I'm not quite sure.. by the way I'm going to flood tables this summer, I plan on chilling.

there has to be some cool little tricks besides frozen water bottles... is there any kind of cooling probe?

I'm open to any suggestions, definitely appreciated, thank you
Click to expand...

You check and adjust all those buckets individually ? Im sorry to say you are working to hard and are probably destin to failure on this one ?
 
panhead

panhead

Well-Known Member
jonjon777 said:
so as of lately I've decided to go to DWC using totes and bubble bucket . I also up the annie and added several lights. so this scale is quite new to me too, 4-6 kW pending temps. at the moment I'm still using my old ventilation systems well I install AC, as of today resi temperatures are climbing, they hittin uncomfortable 77 which worries me, I stuck in some frozen water bottles and they went back down. obviously the AC is going to help this and also running a low dose of bleach...

but I was curious to more information, I would like to try all these buckets together and use a chiller, but with 24 buckets and 12 totes, I'm not quite sure.. by the way I'm going to flood tables this summer, I plan on chilling.

there has to be some cool little tricks besides frozen water bottles... is there any kind of cooling probe?

I'm open to any suggestions, definitely appreciated, thank you
Click to expand...
Making sure everything that contains water is white or another reflective color helps alot .

Ive been preaching geothermal rez's around here for yrs & to my knowledge only 1 member has followed my lead with great success .

My 1st attempt at going geothermal was to bury 55 gallon plastic drums in the earth leaving the top 6 inches above ground with a snap lock lid , this worked fantastic but is alot of work .

My 2nd attempt & what im currently doing with my rez is with 1 inch coil copper tubin , i burried a roll of copper tube below the frost line leaving 6 inches of both ends of the coil above ground , then use an inline pump mounted outside the rez to circulate the rez water underground where the copper tube acts as a heat sink & the cool earth wisks away the heat .

In winter i put the inline pump on a timer for every half hour so the water in the tube coil dont freeze & use a fish tank heater set at 60 degrees to make sure the water dont get too cold .

All you need is a $20 diamond tipped blade & a skill saw to cut an 18 x 18 hole in the floor & a pair of post hole diggers to remove 3 feet of earth , put the coil underground & refill with earth 3/4 of the way up & mix up a $3 bag of concrete to replace the floor , it took me about 6 hours from start to finish .
 
Tone5500

Tone5500

Well-Known Member
panhead said:
Making sure everything that contains water is white or another reflective color helps alot .

Ive been preaching geothermal rez's around here for yrs & to my knowledge only 1 member has followed my lead with great success .

My 1st attempt at going geothermal was to bury 55 gallon plastic drums in the earth leaving the top 6 inches above ground with a snap lock lid , this worked fantastic but is alot of work .

My 2nd attempt & what im currently doing with my rez is with 1 inch coil copper tubin , i burried a roll of copper tube below the frost line leaving 6 inches of both ends of the coil above ground , then use an inline pump mounted outside the rez to circulate the rez water underground where the copper tube acts as a heat sink & the cool earth wisks away the heat .

In winter i put the inline pump on a timer for every half hour so the water in the tube coil dont freeze & use a fish tank heater set at 60 degrees to make sure the water dont get too cold .

All you need is a $20 diamond tipped blade & a skill saw to cut an 18 x 18 hole in the floor & a pair of post hole diggers to remove 3 feet of earth , put the coil underground & refill with earth 3/4 of the way up & mix up a $3 bag of concrete to replace the floor , it took me about 6 hours from start to finish .
Click to expand...
That is a very good idea wish I could do that but my ol lady would flip the fuck out if I started cut the the floor lol .., you can also use that same method to cool your room as well with geo cooling using multiple holes with fans when I was in construction we built a CAT. Building that used that method to cool there hole building ptetty bad ass
 
J

jonjon777

Active Member
That's detication lol...

I'm only using the totes at the moment, I'm going to take clones and then move the bigger plants into the bucket input the clones in the toes after aero cloner...

Won't my ac help a lot?

Destined for failure? Really...
 
J

jonjon777

Active Member
what kind of temperature drop do you get using a reflective material or color compared to a black or dark color?
 
panhead

panhead

Well-Known Member
jonjon777 said:
what kind of temperature drop do you get using a reflective material or color compared to a black or dark color?
Click to expand...
With my above ground black rez temps dropped around 10 degrees by painting it white using a rubberized roof coating I had laying around but any quality white paint will work , or you can wrap your rez in panda plastic & get the same effect .

My rez is directly behind the inlet side of the table & was catching hella light so I had to do something , I've got the rez plumbed where 3/4 inch pvc with a Fawcett comes within 12 inches of the rez , I drilled a small hole in the lid & used a washing machine hose to bring water direct to the rez & leave it connected up.

I leave a small swimming pool sump pump in the rez & when it's time to change the rez I connect the washer hose to the pump & pump the waste water directly into my waste water line for the home , changing my rez takes about 15 minutes .

I cover my flood tables with white panda plastic & it helps keep the root zone cool & eliminates any humidity issues from 32 square ft of moist table area , it's quite a bit of work getting the table covered & all 50 net pots fit snugly between the panda plastic & table bottom but well worth it in the long run .

I believe 90% of electric costs should be for lighting , most other issues can be corrected without running extra gear , I automate as much as possible too .
 
panhead

panhead

Well-Known Member
Tone5500 said:
.., you can also use that same method to cool your room as well with geo cooling using multiple holes with fans when I was in construction we built a CAT. Building that used that method to cool there hole building ptetty bad ass
Click to expand...
Ha I use a method like that for my lighting , I put in a 8 inch black pipe about 18 inches below ground that pulls cool air from behind our barn into the daisy chained lights , I use 1 fan pushing cool air into the chain of three 600 hps & another fan at the end of the chain sucking hot air from the chain of lights , the glass is so cool I let the canopy touch the glass in alot of spots with zero burn or curling.

I vent under my porch , I've just got a single 4 x 8 going now & running legal plant counts so I don't worry about the small amount of odor that ends up getting sucked into the lights , before it was legal to grow in Mich I vented underground then into a big ass garbage can filled with bar b q grill charcoal & it worked damm good too .
 
Tone5500

Tone5500

Well-Known Member
panhead said:
Ha I use a method like that for my lighting , I put in a 8 inch black pipe about 18 inches below ground that pulls cool air from behind our barn into the daisy chained lights , I use 1 fan pushing cool air into the chain of three 600 hps & another fan at the end of the chain sucking hot air from the chain of lights , the glass is so cool I let the canopy touch the glass in alot of spots with zero burn or curling.

I vent under my porch , I've just got a single 4 x 8 going now & running legal plant counts so I don't worry about the small amount of odor that ends up getting sucked into the lights , before it was legal to grow in Mich I vented underground then into a big ass garbage can filled with bar b q grill charcoal & it worked damm good too .
Click to expand...
Nice I'm originaly from flint MI But I reside on the west coast now .
 
joespit

joespit

Well-Known Member
panhead said:
Making sure everything that contains water is white or another reflective color helps alot .

Ive been preaching geothermal rez's around here for yrs & to my knowledge only 1 member has followed my lead with great success .

My 1st attempt at going geothermal was to bury 55 gallon plastic drums in the earth leaving the top 6 inches above ground with a snap lock lid , this worked fantastic but is alot of work .

My 2nd attempt & what im currently doing with my rez is with 1 inch coil copper tubin , i burried a roll of copper tube below the frost line leaving 6 inches of both ends of the coil above ground , then use an inline pump mounted outside the rez to circulate the rez water underground where the copper tube acts as a heat sink & the cool earth wisks away the heat .

In winter i put the inline pump on a timer for every half hour so the water in the tube coil dont freeze & use a fish tank heater set at 60 degrees to make sure the water dont get too cold .

All you need is a $20 diamond tipped blade & a skill saw to cut an 18 x 18 hole in the floor & a pair of post hole diggers to remove 3 feet of earth , put the coil underground & refill with earth 3/4 of the way up & mix up a $3 bag of concrete to replace the floor , it took me about 6 hours from start to finish .
Click to expand...
Can't acidic nuits eat away at the copper and leech into your plants?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Instead of excavating beneath my foundation, I used a car radiator and a box fan outside to chill water. Anytime the outside temperature falls below the target temperature of the water, plug in the box fan and instant compressorless chiller!

I use 15' of 1/2" copper HVAC tubing, coiled to fit in the control bucket of my RDWC system. Passing cold water through this heat exchanger cools my RDWC.

I also use this same water chilling system to cool and dehumidify my growing spaces.

Convert your DWC into RDWC ASAP, FTW! OK, that's enough acronyms for now, LOL

I did this quite some time ago and never looked back.
 
Jimmyjonestoo

Jimmyjonestoo

Well-Known Member
panhead said:
Some guys around here have had great luck using that type home made chiller , I wouldn't use garden hose though as rubber is not a good thermal conductor , metal tubing will be alot better at transferring heat .
Click to expand...
Awesome. I've got the mini fridge but didn't wanna drill holes in it and shit of it wasn't gonna help much. Plugged it in yesterday and put a thermometer in it. 14°f inside there. Figure if I can pump the water through slow enough that it would probably work well. Gonna go for it. Thanks.
 
mrmojoinco

mrmojoinco

Member
I love your Under Current systems (own 3) and I love surnas chillers (own 2 large units) but there cool coils are awful and have leaked to to poor fittings even with multiple hose clams they will leak glycol into your system and kill everything. I have found a answer that fits perfectly into 13 gallon master bucket around the large bubbler. It can keep a 36 unit system cool all day and night without turning on the other nutrient inline chillers. Whats best its on amazon prime. you will still want the solenoid/temp probe kit to turn it on and off from Surna.
50 Foot Stainless Steel Immersion Wort Chiller with No-leak Fittings and Accessories --
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0165WFYSE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
This coil is plenty long but not too long, I assure you that this is what you should be promoting for larger 13 gallon+ systems on your site and the fittings are ribbed so you wont have any leaking issues. The surns coil has the connections under water on short stubs of straight tube. If your chiller pumps have pressure like mine they will leak. I lost countless thousands of dollars and hundreds of man hours trying to figure out WHY? everything was dying. Good luck
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
mrmojoinco said:
I love your Under Current systems (own 3) and I love surnas chillers (own 2 large units) but there cool coils are awful and have leaked to to poor fittings even with multiple hose clams they will leak glycol into your system and kill everything. I have found a answer that fits perfectly into 13 gallon master bucket around the large bubbler. It can keep a 36 unit system cool all day and night without turning on the other nutrient inline chillers. Whats best its on amazon prime. you will still want the solenoid/temp probe kit to turn it on and off from Surna.
50 Foot Stainless Steel Immersion Wort Chiller with No-leak Fittings and Accessories --
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0165WFYSE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
This coil is plenty long but not too long, I assure you that this is what you should be promoting for larger 13 gallon+ systems on your site and the fittings are ribbed so you wont have any leaking issues. The surns coil has the connections under water on short stubs of straight tube. If your chiller pumps have pressure like mine they will leak. I lost countless thousands of dollars and hundreds of man hours trying to figure out WHY? everything was dying. Good luck
Click to expand...
I use water in my lines because I can't remember the last time I had a power outage here that lasted more than 15 minutes. If it goes longer I'll just drain the fuckin' heat pump because it's the only thing outside.

I'm not too thrilled with Surna's customer service, either. I guess since they're in Boulder, they don't have to be nice.
 
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