new type of deficiency i cant find pics of, normal leaf but with dark veins. Also brown spots but not like Ca

I may also do a Magnesium sulphate foliar spray to help both get magnesium in, increase iron absorption and adding Sulphur in. Thoughts ?

CBS2020 said:

Thanks for the help. Its tank water that is run through a sediment filter, then GAC/KDF filter then through a ioniser which makes it a perfect ph of 6. Adding in Si pH goes up to 7-8, then cal/mag, A+B base nutes brings it back down to around 6.2 and humeric acid (no change to pH). I then adjust pH down to 5.9 as when its in the res the air pump removes any remaining carbon dioxide and pH would head up to 6.4 which i think is how i was getting Ca/Mg deficiencies along with not adding Cal/Mag each feed.

Since im feeding 2x day, and planning to do 4x day with 1 runoff at the end, can i keep mS around 1.2 to 1.3 or do plants need more?

Ec going in is 1.2 and run off is 1.1 to 1.15 (im usually within 50 to 100 below or above). Below means i should use higher Ec?

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I would think that the EC you're using seems fine. That's about what I feed my plants every 2nd watering in soilless so mine is lower than yours and the plants grow fine. I use about the same EC when doing DWC as my RH is really low all the time and they get nute burn and toxic salts build up that shows around the middle of flower when all the old leaves start going crispy and brown/yellow all over. Not good.

This water system of yours is it reverse osmosis? If not what is the final EC of it? I bought all the gear to build my own RO system but haven't got around to putting it all together. Our dugout water gets filtered to 5µ so the system starts with a 1µ - carbon filter - 0.5µ carbon filter - RO - UV - calcite polishing filter for better tasting drinking water. I'll have a take off right after the RO for the grow room then one after the UV for the coffee maker then the last after the calcite filter. No de-ionizing filters but may get one later.

CBS2020 said:

I may also do a Magnesium sulphate foliar spray to help both get magnesium in, increase iron absorption and adding Sulphur in. Thoughts ?

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If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Wise words that I follow religiously. Just feed some Epsom salts to the roots where it belongs. If you have a known and serious deficiency then it might help fix that faster but otherwise I only spray to combat bugs.

CBS2020 said:

Constants
Humidity and temp controlled at 65-70%, temp 75-79 degree F / 24-26 degree C
Feeding 2x day in coco with 30% perlite (all coco was flushed before use until Ec at 280 but not pre treated with Cal/Mag), Nutes used Canna A and B at 1200Ec, with Cannazyme and Cannaboost (do i really need these..) ?
Water is pH 6 to 6.1 and after nutes around 5.9-6
Soil pH 5.9 to 6.2
Light is 15" with PAR of 310, i now increased this to 445 today after measuring it and seeing it on the low side. Thoughts about increasing to 600?

Has anyone seen this before, not all of my plants have it, just some.
Dark green veins but no yellowing so not magnesium, what is it?


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And with this the brown spots, do not look dark enough to be calcium but some pics say pH fluctuations but i thought i had that pretty good and only 2 plants have this.

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Last concern is this with 'burn marks' ? Only 2 plants with about 3 leaves have it and PAR is 300-400 15" away so hard to imagine.

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Any help is appreciated, thank you !

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First pic is calcium. Dark necrotic spots surrounded by yellow.

The rest are pH fluctuations like you said. These are common in young establishing plants and are a result of roots hitting dry or different pH pockets in your soil. Usually they stop when u are watering more often and in higher quantities.

Keep cal/mag in every watering - first leaf is evidence of that.

While plants are sick it's better to keep the lights on the low side. High intensity light on young or sick plants will cause more stress.

soil grows best at 6.3ish to 7. (edit: that's some strange looking coco just seen that being said)
plus you topped the plants so 2 stresses already.
Less of the cal mag that's too much for small plant's that don't need it.. more of the nitrogen feed.. calmag needs will come later it doesn't need much especially when you use tap water.

Anyway i would literally chop those small larf off from the bottom not needed and never will be. good luck should be minor proble anf grow out of it.

stashpot said:

soil grows best at 6.3ish to 7. (edit: that's some strange looking coco just seen that being said)
plus you topped the plants so 2 stresses already.
Less of the cal mag that's too much for small plant's that don't need it.. more of the nitrogen feed.. calmag needs will come later it doesn't need much especially when you use tap water.

Anyway i would literally chop those small larf off from the bottom not needed and never will be. good luck should be minor proble anf grow out of it.

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Oh look more awful information given. Read before you type

Nutty sKunK said:

First pic is calcium. Dark necrotic spots surrounded by yellow.

The rest are pH fluctuations like you said. These are common in young establishing plants and are a result of roots hitting dry or different pH pockets in your soil. Usually they stop when u are watering more often and in higher quantities.

Keep cal/mag in every watering - first leaf is evidence of that.

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My source water is not RO. Just well water with a 5 micron filter, then carbon, calcite and magnesium added

Any mS you recommended of cal/mag?
Im doing about 8ml per 10L (i think about 500mS)

There is no sulphur in any of my nutes so will alternative with magnesium sulphate or will that be a problem ? Either foliar or in the coco

This is how bad it was getting, and this same plant (a auto) stared to grow fan leaves that only had one leaf or 2...

Any recommendations on going into flower, im adding P/K now but anything else essential ? at what point do i change mS either up or down from the 1.2 to 1.4 im at now (my source is 60 mS)