Hello all I'm new to trying to grow my own marijuana. I haven't been able to get past the germination stage, since I germinated in starter soil and they died from either too much heat or too much water. I was wondering what mix of soil I can make with regular potting soil, peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. I have some Hawaiian Skunk seeds and I really don't want to screw this up again. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Newbie Soil Question
- Thread starter Reggie24
- Start date
GrowinDad
Well-Known Member
My mix is basically those four in equal parts with about 2T of dolomite lime added per gallon.
I germ with the paper towel method. From there into MG Seed Starter with about 30% added perlite in a solo cup with holes at the bottom. Then once established into the soil mix and their final pot.
Good luck.
I germ with the paper towel method. From there into MG Seed Starter with about 30% added perlite in a solo cup with holes at the bottom. Then once established into the soil mix and their final pot.
Good luck.
crazyhazey
Well-Known Member
perlite retains less water so if your having overwatering problems id make that a good 1/4 of your medium, depending on your humidity possibly even more, i put a good layer at the bottom as well. check your moisture by poking holes into the soil and even at the bottom of the pots,when holes collapse they're ready to water, and the color of the soil is lighter. also try to stay away from the taproot when poking holes, this simulates what earthworms do and is beneficial for your root system, but do it in moderation. for future grows id try some seeds that are less valuable to you, first grows are more experimental than anything, if you do get a good harvest you should consider yourself lucky.
kinddiesel
Well-Known Member
why not buy a grow block for that seed if your having issues . if not suggest a soil that retain water more less perlite . even a top soil is fine. or even go out side dig up the grass and use that soil .
crazyhazey
Well-Known Member
well hes having overwatering issues itd probably be better to have a medium that doesnt retain so much. if the soil in his yard isn't too much like sand and water can penetrate yes that is an option, it might be more colonized than some soil that sat around on a shelf for months as well, though id compost it for a month if i could.
kinddiesel
Well-Known Member
throw it into the oven. no you don't want out side soil it its sandy . that's a bad combo for seeds .
crazyhazey
Well-Known Member
i would probably avoid killing all the microbial activity and nutrients if your suggesting putting soil in the oven, though seedlings dont need much nutrients they do need a small amount and microbes are always good. not all soil is sandy outdoors, some is less rich than other but nonetheless not all of it will be like sand. didnt you just suggest he use outside soil like a post ago?
GrowinDad
Well-Known Member
I can't say that seed starter soil is necessary. And I hate MG. But I am not an expert grower and it is what works for me. I use the same method for clones.
I too throw some perlite at the bottom of all pots. I started to keep away the gnats that eat the bottom (have none since I started doing that and leaving out molasses).
In any case, the potting soil part of the mix has some nutes in it, not all are the same. The one I use has next to nothing. So...if I were to go straight into my mix, I would prob put some rooting stuff (dynagro kln) into the water when dampening the soil.
BTW, after going into the solo cup, i will put a baggie with a small slit in it over the cup. i will sometimes mist into it. Helps be like a humidity dome. I find it helps while they are getting started...
I too throw some perlite at the bottom of all pots. I started to keep away the gnats that eat the bottom (have none since I started doing that and leaving out molasses).
In any case, the potting soil part of the mix has some nutes in it, not all are the same. The one I use has next to nothing. So...if I were to go straight into my mix, I would prob put some rooting stuff (dynagro kln) into the water when dampening the soil.
BTW, after going into the solo cup, i will put a baggie with a small slit in it over the cup. i will sometimes mist into it. Helps be like a humidity dome. I find it helps while they are getting started...
crazyhazey
Well-Known Member
not a fan of MG either, shits burned so many of my plants but thats on me for not realizing its some of the hottest soil on the market, slow release nutes are a bitch when you want to know how much your gals really need. and damn thats a good idea for a makeshift humidity dome, might have to try that.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Do not use the paper towel method. Germ in a tall 6.5" styrofoam pot per my germination archive.
Top soil is NOT fine. MG is.
No perlite or rocks at the bottom of the pot.
No domes or misting. That is a perfect way to kill your faves due to pythium rot.
Slow release encapsulated foods are an excellent way to provide a constant low dose source of nutrition. I am a commercial grower and hobby grower and I use the following on everything.
Reggie, sounds like you're new to gardening, any kind of gardening. You need to hang at quality gardening sites and get educated. Hate to say it but cannabis forums are the worst places to hang at for a newbie. Mel Franks "MJ Insiders Growers Guide" is an excellent, solid, down to earth guide based on botany, not hearsay and can be your short cut to success.
I highly recommend you not start again until you've learned what makes a plant tick. As an example of what not to do, I listed just a few pieces of advice in this short thread that are not in your best interest. When it's all said and done, you'll end up confused because you don't have the foundation to make the proper cultural choices.
See my Tweek thread and Plant Moisture Stress thread.
Good luck,
Tio
Top soil is NOT fine. MG is.
No perlite or rocks at the bottom of the pot.
No domes or misting. That is a perfect way to kill your faves due to pythium rot.
Slow release encapsulated foods are an excellent way to provide a constant low dose source of nutrition. I am a commercial grower and hobby grower and I use the following on everything.
Reggie, sounds like you're new to gardening, any kind of gardening. You need to hang at quality gardening sites and get educated. Hate to say it but cannabis forums are the worst places to hang at for a newbie. Mel Franks "MJ Insiders Growers Guide" is an excellent, solid, down to earth guide based on botany, not hearsay and can be your short cut to success.
I highly recommend you not start again until you've learned what makes a plant tick. As an example of what not to do, I listed just a few pieces of advice in this short thread that are not in your best interest. When it's all said and done, you'll end up confused because you don't have the foundation to make the proper cultural choices.
See my Tweek thread and Plant Moisture Stress thread.
Good luck,
Tio
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nflguy
Well-Known Member
LOL There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the paper towel method. It's fast, cheap, easy AND foolproof. I have been using this method for 25 years with NEVER a problem. Reggie...good luck to ya!
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
You're probably not in the loop with commercial gardeners, nurserymen, but there is a reason why none of them germinate a seed in a paper towel.
A monkey can germinate a seed. The issue is not that. The issue is what happens after the seedcoat breaks regarding seedling vigor and a risk of damaging the very fragile radicle.
My archive follows.......
**********************************************************************************************************
Germinating Cannabis Seeds (for Bio Growers)
Your seedlings will be alot better off if you germinate directly in soil - less handling and mechanical disturbance means less chance of physical damage to the plant's taproot (and roothairs) and less food reserves used to position itself due to the natural hormonal influence called Gravitropism. That translates into less food reserves used and increased seedling vigor, especially in the very early critical stages of seedling development.
This is my foolproof method for Cannabis Seed Germination in soil:
First, if harvesting seeds from my own crosses, I air-dry newly harvested seeds for a couple of weeks, and then store them in the refrigerator with a little rice. Cold-treatment seems to increase viability and germination rates, especially with indica-dom strains. I almost always get a 100% germination rate with quality seedstock.
Soak the seeds in plain water for 12 hours prior to planting to hydrate them, which will speed up germination. In general, good seeds will sink, bad seeds will remain floating (they contain air, not an embryo). I first sterilize seeds in a bleach solution (1 Tbsp. bleach/1 gallon of water) for 1/2 hour to kill any fungus residing on the seedcoat.
Sterilize enough *damp* fine soil with heat to germinate all of your seeds. You can do this by treating the damp soil to temps of (no more than) 200F for 20 mins in a conventional oven, or in a microwave oven on high for 2 minutes, while stirring a couple of times. Your goal is to get and hold the entire soil mix's temperature at 170F to 180F for about 20 minutes which can be monitored with a probe type thermometer. Let the mix cool thoroughly. This will insure that damp-off fungus spores have been killed in the soil mix. Make sure the soil mix is light and humusy (not real coarse). You can add a little sand or vermiculite to aid in drainage and weight.
Buy some white 20oz styrofoam "drinking glasses", commonly called "Styro-Cups", and punch holes in the bottom (and side bottom) for drainage. I use a red-hot ice pick for this. These containers are 6 1/2" tall and will allow ample room for the taproot to grow before cotyledon emergence which will increase your seedling's vigor. The taproot (radicle) is already at least 4" long at the point of emergence - don't restrict it (in order to maximize seedling growth rate). Styro-Cups can be found on the shelf displaying picnic items at your local grocery store.
Fill the pots almost to the top with your soil mix, water well to settle the mix, take a pencil and make a small hole about 1/4" to 1/2" deep, NO deeper, and drop *one* seed in. Cover the seed with *fine* soil, only enough to top up the hole, firm lightly with your finger, and lightly water until water runs freely thru the drain holes. Place in a warm spot around 80F/26C. Do NOT cover the cup with saran wrap or anything else. The seed has been hydrated from the soaking and will germinate soon. This container should not require further watering until the seedling is up and running.
During the first couple of days only if need be mist the top soil surface lightly , never allowing the top to crust over, but not to the point that the medium stays waterlogged which will invite pythium rot (damp-off). "Less is more" at this point. Do NOT water this pot any more until the seedling is up, and only if it needs it at the point of emergence. Again, no need to cover with plastic wrap as the radicle (taproot) will grow at least 4" before the cotyledons emerge from the soil. IOW, even though you can't see it, the plant's root is seeking and finding moisture at the container's lower soil levels. I cannot emphasize this enough. The seedling will emerge anywhere from 2 to 10 days from the time you sowed it.
nflguy
Well-Known Member
nflguy
Well-Known Member
While your advice and apparent knowledge is noted, Ben, the bottom line is what happens after the harvest and cure. Its not necessary to become a botanist to grow this plant. Its not even necessary to become a botanist to grow this plant efficiently with superior results. I stand by my opinion on the paper towel method. It works for millions of growers just like myself
airbornestoner
Member
thank you so much for sharing this knowledge. Always love absorbing all the info I can get.
Jussblaz3420
Well-Known Member
Pop em in a moist paper towel, once the taproot comes out, stick ur finger in the soil no deeper than a half inch and plant that sucker taproot down or sideways. Cover up lightly then just wait, as long as u have a decent medium that isnt loaded with nutes ull be just fine. Remember ur growing an invasive weed, these plants could take some abuse.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
No, the bottom line is what happens up to the harvest and cure. It's the journey that's important, and one "aw shit" can ruin a garden.
I understand, but it is necessary to use common botanical sense which is sorely lacking in cannabis forums.
Of course "it works". I'm not arguing it doesn't work. Lots of "shit works", but it's not necessarily the best choice.
I stand behind my personal observation that popular cannabis forum practices have screwed up more gardens that I can shake a stick at, or at least not provided the best path to a plant's fullest potential. But like they say, "a thousand flies on a pile of shit can't be wrong."
Look, just being a smartass but also trying to drive a point home, and the sooner this newbie catches on to my drift, the less pain and frustration he's going to encounter in the future.
Good luck,
UB
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airbornestoner
Member
In no way did I read him say that you need to be a botanist to successfully obtain superior results. Im sure he cares less how we choose to germinate. Just trying to help share knowledge with the current proven successful methods. I am going to give this a shot next grow and thanks again!
dannyboy602
Well-Known Member
The list you mentioned is fine to get started with. About equal parts of each will get the seeds started. Don't feed for about the first three weeks. Pelletized mixes usually dumpmtoo much NPK too early.
After those initial three weeks you'll either have to grow in a rich, nutient dense mix that won't need additional fertilizing or go with a sterile mix that needs weekly feeding. As far as Miracle Grow soils I've used Organic Choice with success. It's the only one I've used so I can't comment on their other soil mixes. It's easy enough to do, you don't need to hold off till you've read a dozen books, just jump in and be prepared to learn as you go, and don't spend a lot on seeds so if you lose some it's not a big deal. If you need specific help just ask me I'll walk you through it.