NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

bubba73 said:
yes you be correct … it’s better to cut back on the feed then just a cut off and starting flush … with cutting back the feed you don’t have to do a 2 week flush , 1 week is good enough ….I did 3 week flushes , 1 week flushes … but if done right you should start to see the fade or fall colors start before the flush ….
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OK cool. That answers another question I had. My 1 plant I have is an 8 week strain and it's in week 6 so 2nd week of late flower feeding and I'm already starting to see leaves fade to yellow. If I flushed for week 7 and 8 there'd be no leaves left lol. So I'll probably taper down a week and flush a week.
 
Alright, everything (like all three articles I found) about charging with liquid fertilizers said to let it sit for 2 days. I left it outside and nearly all the water evaporated. My thinking is evaporate the water out- leaving only fertilizer in the bio char



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im Going to let it dry out another day. Next I’ll hit it with something like photo + or a aerated tea.
 
pahpah-cee said:
Alright, everything (like all three articles I found) about charging with liquid fertilizers said to let it sit for 2 days. I left it outside and nearly all the water evaporated. My thinking is evaporate the water out- leaving only fertilizer in the bio char



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im Going to let it dry out another day. Next I’ll hit it with something like photo + or a aerated tea.
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Looks like you may need some perlite also. Whatever mix I make I usually add more.
 
pahpah-cee said:
This is just straight biochar. I’m going to add it to my soil.
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Oh ya duh! Lol. After you mix it all up and do whatever else you're gonna do and let it sit I take a slurry before I transplant just to be safe. I noticed this run with #4 soil amended with oneshot and mixed withe the biochar mix I got i haven't had to battle low ph at all. Right now in flower it's kinda like a nice battle against high ph if that makes sense. It stays on the higher end and when I feed at really high ppms it drifts down to say 6.4 then back up to almost 7.
 
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I was going to try a bottle of Herculean to finish up the last few weeks of this run. Is the Olympus Up really needed? How much does the HH drop the Ph? My well water is about 7.4
 
Weedbaser said:
I was going to try a bottle of Herculean to finish up the last few weeks of this run. Is the Olympus Up really needed? How much does the HH drop the Ph? My well water is about 7.4
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Well it kinda depends on the ppms of your water and what those tds' are. You may not need it but truly won't know until you throw 2 TBl of herc into a gal of water and check the pH. The water I use right now comes out of the tap with 150 ppm on a x5 scale and a pH of 7.4. I dilute it down to 100 ppm for every tea feed and flush. So when I add 2 tbl of herc to my water for a flush it comes out with a pH of 6.4. Dead on. That's just me and my water and what I do.
 
Here's what im gonna do and think it will work out well. So the 2 plants all the way to the right will be done soon. One in 2 weeks and one in 4 weeks. The other 3 plants are 10 week strains, so when 1 comes out and then the other its going to open up room and Light. So the 3 plants I have left I'm gonna spread out to give them room and tie the branches down to open them up a little so light penetrates all the way down. The branches are really long and have alot of bud sites. So usually I would llipop more and defoliate but I think spreading them out like that will make a massive canopy20220708_143610.jpg
 
Definitely had to raise up my se3000 over the Green Crack plant in late flowering. Last weekend 4th of July I was busy and barely home and I got really hot and light must have been too close because the leaves are yellowing from the top down not from the bottom up meaning it was either a nutrient lockout, deficiency, or the light being too close. So I took a slurry test just now and my numbers came back perfect, pH was 6.5 and 375 PPM on a five scale. Meaning I torched my plant with the light. Still getting used to them. These samsung diodes are bright as fuck.
 
This is the first time this has happened to me and it sucks. I placed my order on ocg over 4th of July weekend so it's taking forever to get here but will be here sometime today. The thing is my plants need watered now but I'm down about six bottles and herc is one of them. I don't know if I should make up a concoction of what I have or just the wait for the package. Anyways, if you guys are using nectar and don't already know, ocg is the best place to get your nuts as long as you spend the $150. The bottles are the cheapest through them because they make the stuff but definitely gotta spend the 150 for the free shipping. I replaced damn near the whole Roman regimen.
 
Just chopped the Green cracknplant that's been giving me hell. She looks great though good thing I checked the trichomes it was more like a 7 week plant than an 8.
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So I'm gonna have to hand it up in a tent in my grow room which cab be hot and humid right now. What do you guys think, wet trim or dry trim???
 
So I'm fairly new to the nectar line(my second run) and the first run was less than ideal. iv found alot of helpful info browsing through this thread and I think iv narrowed down my problem and it is that my ppm of my water right out of the tap is over 500 ppm and jumps to 1500ppm after I mix up full strength feeding so my first question is what is the best way to lower the ppm of my water without going full ro setup? And it seems that even if I started with full ro water the ppm of my nutrient solution would still be over the recommended maximum of 500. So is the ppm of the solution not as critical as the ppm of the slurry test?
 
ThatGuy48 said:
So I'm fairly new to the nectar line(my second run) and the first run was less than ideal. iv found alot of helpful info browsing through this thread and I think iv narrowed down my problem and it is that my ppm of my water right out of the tap is over 500 ppm and jumps to 1500ppm after I mix up full strength feeding so my first question is what is the best way to lower the ppm of my water without going full ro setup? And it seems that even if I started with full ro water the ppm of my nutrient solution would still be over the recommended maximum of 500. So is the ppm of the solution not as critical as the ppm of the slurry test?
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I'm also pretty new to the line only have a couple harvests and I'm still trying to figure it out myself. Both runs with it were in different houses and had high PPM water so what I do is I just add distilled water to the tap water until the ppms are in range then add nutrients then pH. Im in mid to late flowering watering at over 2000 ppm trying to push harder than the regimen. I had good quality but need higher yields. So I'm at
25ml Bk,100ml HH, 50ml Circes, 30 ml tritons.
 
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This Bruce Banger plant smells like strawberries and skunk. Looks to be nearing the end. 9 to 10 weeks strain but it's only day 38 of flower. Has a little longer to go though.20220729_092144.jpg
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Maybe I should start tapering my nutrients down and start flushing
 
I'm running the full Roman regimen, cultured biologics line, microbe life line, etc etc on all these plants and 1500 watts and just got the two new spider farmer lights for this grow so I would like these plants to come out as good as they possibly can LOL.20220729_121359.jpg
 
I feel u on the lights I just got a new mars hydro fc6500. Beautiful looking plants. How the hell u get them to stay standing up with no support that far into bloom mine would be laying on the floor lol
 
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