oh they were drooping alright
but not anymore now just turning yellow so that makes sense ... thank you ... they're hungry
Nitrogen? Overwatering?
- Thread starter Orin190
- Start date
but not anymore now just turning yellow so that makes sense ... thank you ... they're hungry
StonedGardener
Well-Known Member
Shit happens. I wouldn't worry , you're gonna get some real nice bud ! I've had a lot of the lower leaves get funky like that , yet end up with some primo buddage.
this is my 3rd grow. the first 2 i pulled too early imo. i will fight the urge this time!!! I did get some good weed out of those 2 though. Just not great weed.
Comnconnection
Member
Hey, no problem man, glad to help. Yeah i'd feed this water and do the plain calmag water next water. If your tap water is good quality with low ppm you can use it, I have in many grows. Letting water sit out will help evaporate the chlorine, but chloramines, fluoride, copper, and other things can still be in there. If those are in low concentration its fine and the plants can use the minerals, but otherwise it could cause problems and does kill microbes. If you start with the r/o and calmag you know your water is good and i do think the plants grow best that way too. They love the N and iron that comes with it.When I water i usually get about that in runoff sometimes a little less so that's good. I could probably do a full gallon though which i will start doing.
In regards to watering I have been using tap water that i let sit out for a few days. I did just get an R/O filter for my humidifier because everything was turning white lmao. So I should be using r/o water with some cal mag ffor when i am not feeding and just watering them like in between a feeding? When i do water the soil on top is definitely hydrophobic and the water drips out the sides (slightly i stop watering when i see this and wait 1-15 minutes and that usually helps a lot). Before I water i stick my finger in the soil, the top 2 sometimes 2 inches are bone dry but then it's still wet in the middle but by wet i mean very similar to how when you open the bag of soil how it comes - is this when i need to water? I thought that's why i got messed up and overwatered. I am assuming i overwatered beacuse it was wilted and lifeless and i didn't water for a week and she started growing really strong after like 5-6 days, color came back and everything.
I don't have an EC meter i do have an inkbirdPLUS and it does temp/ppm/PH. I also don't have an actual popfd meter which my buddy keeps nagging me to get one because you "can't grow without one" - true? I use the Photone app on my phone with no diffuser or anything and just run with it. Wtf is EC?
For my next watering should i do straight water/calmag? I've fed them the last 2 times kinda, the time before last they got the grow big and tiger bloom and cal mag OH AND a banana tea (i shoved 5-6 banana peels in a mason jar with water and closed it and let it go until it started bubbling, a couple days, and poured that in for phosphorus??? idk it sounded good and i did that one other time a few weeks ago) not sure if that even works.. who knows. ... Or should I feed it because it's hungry and do water next time?
So about this roots organic ??? I am about to start another grow (gooeybreeder seeds come in today) and they're photos and i've only done autos so far but i want to do some cool LST and stuff and you don't get the time with autos (or im not good enough yet).. I grow weed more for the growing of it as it's fun and gives me something to do. I'd like to have one of them really cool looking plants one day that's like 2 feet tall and a giant ass perfectly circular bush with 42 colas coming off it everywhere lol. I did add a bag of EWC when i added the pearlite. I just feel like the soil on the inside isn't drying out nearly as quick as the rest which makes no sense because thats mainly you'd think where the plant drinks from but maybe it wasn't overwatering maybe it needed more nutes.......damn i hate thinking.......
Environment is pretty consistent it does get down to about 68 throughout the night and then at about 3pm it works back up to 80, never goes over 81. RH ~ 50-55very consistent as it's all hooked up to the acinfinity controller and i have max/min temp/humidity set.
I am still all ears
Yeah, once your soil runs out of food and you start really feeding you should use the plain 1ml/gal calmag water with some great white (just like 1tsp in 5gal, doesn't need to be alot) in between feedings. If you use tap water, don't use calmag, except for in the feed. pH 6.5. This will keep you from creating a lockout from overfeeding. Personally i also add a little gnatrol which helps prevent/fight fungus gnats as well. So this is your in between feeds mix.
Sounds like your on top of making sure water isn't just running out of the pot when you feed. That out of the bag soil moisture level is definitely your target for watering or maybe just a hair drier. The finger trick works good to see how dry it is on top. I like lifting pots, so using weight. If the pot feels light it probably needs water. I know its kind of difficult at first, but you'll get a feel for it, not too wet, not too dry, that happy medium. Sounds like you did overwater before, those are the symptoms you described. A plant with a smaller and less established root system is more susceptible too it, especially if the soil gets cold (below 70) and soggy and its after a transplant or stressful time. I'd try to keep your night temps between 70-72, until last week of flower.. Also add a 6'' fan blowing air around the pot and bottom of tent to keep air flow good down there. Make sure you have a little fresh air getting in there somehow too to keep oxygen levels up. Also add an oxygen stone to your water when your mixing and water with a shower type water wand, which helps to oxygenate the water again right before it hits the soil. Humidity should be 60-65% to hit vpd based on day temps of 80.. I've done fine at the 55-60% too, but really try not to go lower. Really should be 70 for ideal vpd, but i don't like running it that high.
I think billy answered the EC thing, lol. It is just electric conductivity and is measuring the resistance of the water between two diodes based on salt or nutrient content of the water. It is the measurement used to calculate ppm. We don't use ppm because there is 3 different scales which makes it confusing. If all you have is tds or ppm, thats fine though, just figure out if its the hanna, truchen, or Eutech. Google EC ppm conversion chart and convert to EC. Its just a guide to make sure we don't mix anything up that is to hot. Like right now I think your plant should be getting like a 1.3-1.5 EC every other watering, which is 750-1050ppm depending on scale. So check that when you make your mix. Add more tiger bloom to bring up the EC if low. Dilute with water if high. Make sure the mix is 6.3-6.8 pH and avoid adjusting it if you can. pH up and down affect npk, so add as little as possible when you do.
Stop doing the banana teas, even though it may have helped, just an unknown variable. Or keep experimenting on one plant in side by sides. Maybe you found a new method that works great. And I love doing things like that, but it would be good to have a system that works firt, then branch off from there. Get a pusle, those meters do ppfd, par, dli, environment, everything you need.
I just like the roots ingredients and texture better, I get less of that hydrophobic effect, maybe from the coco they put in there. Use it strait out the bag for veg, then amend it in flower or start feeding it after a couple weeks for best results. An easy way to boost the roots for flower and a good place to start is to add a quart size cup of some worm castings, a handful of that EWC, 2tbls oyster shell, 1tbls fish meal, 2tbls fish bone meal, and 1/3 cup each of Jamaican bat guano and Mykos to each soil bag. You can do the same with the ocean forest as well. Soil amendments are a lengthly topic though. Transplant into this mix 10-14 days before flower. I forgot you added that EWC with the perlite, that was a good call.
Sounds cool man, you'll have fun popping some regular beans and training or shaping them. Mix FF planting mix and light warrior 50/50 for a great seed starting mix. The outside soil is drying faster because it surrounded by air in the fabric pot and thats ok. If it were in the ground it wouldn't be the same. Don't worry about that, try lifting the plant after you water to get your base saturated weight. Then each day after lift it and see how much lighter it is and I think you'll notice when the soil looks dry-dryish and the pot feels light. Don't be too worried about overwatering again or you'll underwater, lol, just don't get keep it soggy. They need alot of water and food at this specific time in there life. And this happens to everyone, you overwater, then you underwater, then you find your zen zone.
Thanks man i am going to feed tomorrow and i have the FF tro. I don't need grow big anymore i dont think so i am going to go with the big bloom / tiger bloom at full strength. It's also time for me to buy more nutes.... I will start to test for ppm which i've never done yet so i'll get that figured out.Hey, no problem man, glad to help. Yeah i'd feed this water and do the plain calmag water next water. If your tap water is good quality with low ppm you can use it, I have in many grows. Letting water sit out will help evaporate the chlorine, but chloramines, fluoride, copper, and other things can still be in there. If those are in low concentration its fine and the plants can use the minerals, but otherwise it could cause problems and does kill microbes. If you start with the r/o and calmag you know your water is good and i do think the plants grow best that way too. They love the N and iron that comes with it.
Yeah, once your soil runs out of food and you start really feeding you should use the plain 1ml/gal calmag water with some great white (just like 1tsp in 5gal, doesn't need to be alot) in between feedings. If you use tap water, don't use calmag, except for in the feed. pH 6.5. This will keep you from creating a lockout from overfeeding. Personally i also add a little gnatrol which helps prevent/fight fungus gnats as well. So this is your in between feeds mix.
Sounds like your on top of making sure water isn't just running out of the pot when you feed. That out of the bag soil moisture level is definitely your target for watering or maybe just a hair drier. The finger trick works good to see how dry it is on top. I like lifting pots, so using weight. If the pot feels light it probably needs water. I know its kind of difficult at first, but you'll get a feel for it, not too wet, not too dry, that happy medium. Sounds like you did overwater before, those are the symptoms you described. A plant with a smaller and less established root system is more susceptible too it, especially if the soil gets cold (below 70) and soggy and its after a transplant or stressful time. I'd try to keep your night temps between 70-72, until last week of flower.. Also add a 6'' fan blowing air around the pot and bottom of tent to keep air flow good down there. Make sure you have a little fresh air getting in there somehow too to keep oxygen levels up. Also add an oxygen stone to your water when your mixing and water with a shower type water wand, which helps to oxygenate the water again right before it hits the soil. Humidity should be 60-65% to hit vpd based on day temps of 80.. I've done fine at the 55-60% too, but really try not to go lower. Really should be 70 for ideal vpd, but i don't like running it that high.
I think billy answered the EC thing, lol. It is just electric conductivity and is measuring the resistance of the water between two diodes based on salt or nutrient content of the water. It is the measurement used to calculate ppm. We don't use ppm because there is 3 different scales which makes it confusing. If all you have is tds or ppm, thats fine though, just figure out if its the hanna, truchen, or Eutech. Google EC ppm conversion chart and convert to EC. Its just a guide to make sure we don't mix anything up that is to hot. Like right now I think your plant should be getting like a 1.3-1.5 EC every other watering, which is 750-1050ppm depending on scale. So check that when you make your mix. Add more tiger bloom to bring up the EC if low. Dilute with water if high. Make sure the mix is 6.3-6.8 pH and avoid adjusting it if you can. pH up and down affect npk, so add as little as possible when you do.
Stop doing the banana teas, even though it may have helped, just an unknown variable. Or keep experimenting on one plant in side by sides. Maybe you found a new method that works great. And I love doing things like that, but it would be good to have a system that works firt, then branch off from there. Get a pusle, those meters do ppfd, par, dli, environment, everything you need.
I just like the roots ingredients and texture better, I get less of that hydrophobic effect, maybe from the coco they put in there. Use it strait out the bag for veg, then amend it in flower or start feeding it after a couple weeks for best results. An easy way to boost the roots for flower and a good place to start is to add a quart size cup of some worm castings, a handful of that EWC, 2tbls oyster shell, 1tbls fish meal, 2tbls fish bone meal, and 1/3 cup each of Jamaican bat guano and Mykos to each soil bag. You can do the same with the ocean forest as well. Soil amendments are a lengthly topic though. Transplant into this mix 10-14 days before flower. I forgot you added that EWC with the perlite, that was a good call.
Sounds cool man, you'll have fun popping some regular beans and training or shaping them. Mix FF planting mix and light warrior 50/50 for a great seed starting mix. The outside soil is drying faster because it surrounded by air in the fabric pot and thats ok. If it were in the ground it wouldn't be the same. Don't worry about that, try lifting the plant after you water to get your base saturated weight. Then each day after lift it and see how much lighter it is and I think you'll notice when the soil looks dry-dryish and the pot feels light. Don't be too worried about overwatering again or you'll underwater, lol, just don't get keep it soggy. They need alot of water and food at this specific time in there life. And this happens to everyone, you overwater, then you underwater, then you find your zen zone.
Let's talk nutes. Everyone says "fox fam is good BUT" which makes me feel like it's the subway of the nutes, yeah it's not mcdonalds but.. lol. I got FF because that was the soil i was using but i don't think im ready to change my soil just yet because im still learing the FF but i could change the nutes. Maybe i just do it now and start learning a new soil? idk.... I also feel FF is a beinners soil?? which is exactly what i should be using. What do you think i should use for nutes?
Also, something on my mind lately too that i can't make up my mind on is a UVA bar. Been eyeing this one because it snaps right onto my light https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/lamps/products/hlg-30-uva-xl-supplement but it seems 50/50 on the opinions. They had a 25% off for croptober and i assume black friday will be the same or better and i'll just get it then...if i do.. it's pretty cheap.
driver77
Well-Known Member
I grow in FF soil too and have found that after around week 4 or 5 it starts loosing it's ph buffering.....which will present itself as all kinds of deficiencies which will have you chasing your tail the whole grow. I use RAW humic acid starting at week 3 and every week after....I'm sure any brand will do...just saying what I use. The humic acid will buffer ph so well that you can throw your ph pen in the trash. I never ph anything...tap is around 7.5 and that's how I use it. No run off test no nothing.
If your going to add uva I recommend also adding far red/ir they will counteract each others downsides and you'll come out with better taste and potency. Be prepared though...accelerated metabolism will require more nutes and magnesium for whatever reason.
If your going to add uva I recommend also adding far red/ir they will counteract each others downsides and you'll come out with better taste and potency. Be prepared though...accelerated metabolism will require more nutes and magnesium for whatever reason.
secretmicrogrow420
Well-Known Member
okay so i gotta give you my 2 cents about adding UVA.
i saw a video on youtube were dr.bruce bugbee from apogee said that UVA alone does not make the plant produce more cannabinoids.
here is something that a book im reading says about UV
"UV light is divided into three bands—UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVB is critical to the development of THC. The potency of cannabis is dependent on the amount of UVB light it receives. "
here is something that a book im reading says about UVB
"UVB light affects the potency of high-quality plants. The amount of
cannabinoids and terpenes that a plant produces increases as it receives more
UVB light."
my 2 cents buying a light that produces only UVA will not increase cannabinoids. you want a light that produces uva and uvb not just uva...... good luck with your grows boss man.
i saw a video on youtube were dr.bruce bugbee from apogee said that UVA alone does not make the plant produce more cannabinoids.
here is something that a book im reading says about UV
"UV light is divided into three bands—UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVB is critical to the development of THC. The potency of cannabis is dependent on the amount of UVB light it receives. "
here is something that a book im reading says about UVB
"UVB light affects the potency of high-quality plants. The amount of
cannabinoids and terpenes that a plant produces increases as it receives more
UVB light."
my 2 cents buying a light that produces only UVA will not increase cannabinoids. you want a light that produces uva and uvb not just uva...... good luck with your grows boss man.
i appreciate you
that makes sense because around week 7ish is when everything goes bonkers and I am probably feeding not enough and it works for a couple weeks and then all hell breaks loose. I am making sound worse than i think it is but still i just want green leaves throughout my whole grow lmaooooo
driver77
Well-Known Member
Try it and let me know how it works for you...I use their kelp with the humic acid also..will really help in flower. Just weekly will make your ph problems go away.
MtRainDog
Well-Known Member
If I had to guess, I'd guess it was a watering issue. I say that because the newer growth looks pretty healthy, and the larger older fans faded out from whatever upset her. Overall I think she's looking good, maybe a touch hungry, but it's tough to tell in pictures. If she isn't burning, she can probably withstand a little bump in feed.
Water sat out a few days. Had a dead earwig in it...i call that extra nutes.Hey, no problem man, glad to help. Yeah i'd feed this water and do the plain calmag water next water. If your tap water is good quality with low ppm you can use it, I have in many grows. Letting water sit out will help evaporate the chlorine, but chloramines, fluoride, copper, and other things can still be in there. If those are in low concentration its fine and the plants can use the minerals, but otherwise it could cause problems and does kill microbes. If you start with the r/o and calmag you know your water is good and i do think the plants grow best that way too. They love the N and iron that comes with it.
Yeah, once your soil runs out of food and you start really feeding you should use the plain 1ml/gal calmag water with some great white (just like 1tsp in 5gal, doesn't need to be alot) in between feedings. If you use tap water, don't use calmag, except for in the feed. pH 6.5. This will keep you from creating a lockout from overfeeding. Personally i also add a little gnatrol which helps prevent/fight fungus gnats as well. So this is your in between feeds mix.
Sounds like your on top of making sure water isn't just running out of the pot when you feed. That out of the bag soil moisture level is definitely your target for watering or maybe just a hair drier. The finger trick works good to see how dry it is on top. I like lifting pots, so using weight. If the pot feels light it probably needs water. I know its kind of difficult at first, but you'll get a feel for it, not too wet, not too dry, that happy medium. Sounds like you did overwater before, those are the symptoms you described. A plant with a smaller and less established root system is more susceptible too it, especially if the soil gets cold (below 70) and soggy and its after a transplant or stressful time. I'd try to keep your night temps between 70-72, until last week of flower.. Also add a 6'' fan blowing air around the pot and bottom of tent to keep air flow good down there. Make sure you have a little fresh air getting in there somehow too to keep oxygen levels up. Also add an oxygen stone to your water when your mixing and water with a shower type water wand, which helps to oxygenate the water again right before it hits the soil. Humidity should be 60-65% to hit vpd based on day temps of 80.. I've done fine at the 55-60% too, but really try not to go lower. Really should be 70 for ideal vpd, but i don't like running it that high.
I think billy answered the EC thing, lol. It is just electric conductivity and is measuring the resistance of the water between two diodes based on salt or nutrient content of the water. It is the measurement used to calculate ppm. We don't use ppm because there is 3 different scales which makes it confusing. If all you have is tds or ppm, thats fine though, just figure out if its the hanna, truchen, or Eutech. Google EC ppm conversion chart and convert to EC. Its just a guide to make sure we don't mix anything up that is to hot. Like right now I think your plant should be getting like a 1.3-1.5 EC every other watering, which is 750-1050ppm depending on scale. So check that when you make your mix. Add more tiger bloom to bring up the EC if low. Dilute with water if high. Make sure the mix is 6.3-6.8 pH and avoid adjusting it if you can. pH up and down affect npk, so add as little as possible when you do.
Stop doing the banana teas, even though it may have helped, just an unknown variable. Or keep experimenting on one plant in side by sides. Maybe you found a new method that works great. And I love doing things like that, but it would be good to have a system that works firt, then branch off from there. Get a pusle, those meters do ppfd, par, dli, environment, everything you need.
I just like the roots ingredients and texture better, I get less of that hydrophobic effect, maybe from the coco they put in there. Use it strait out the bag for veg, then amend it in flower or start feeding it after a couple weeks for best results. An easy way to boost the roots for flower and a good place to start is to add a quart size cup of some worm castings, a handful of that EWC, 2tbls oyster shell, 1tbls fish meal, 2tbls fish bone meal, and 1/3 cup each of Jamaican bat guano and Mykos to each soil bag. You can do the same with the ocean forest as well. Soil amendments are a lengthly topic though. Transplant into this mix 10-14 days before flower. I forgot you added that EWC with the perlite, that was a good call.
Sounds cool man, you'll have fun popping some regular beans and training or shaping them. Mix FF planting mix and light warrior 50/50 for a great seed starting mix. The outside soil is drying faster because it surrounded by air in the fabric pot and thats ok. If it were in the ground it wouldn't be the same. Don't worry about that, try lifting the plant after you water to get your base saturated weight. Then each day after lift it and see how much lighter it is and I think you'll notice when the soil looks dry-dryish and the pot feels light. Don't be too worried about overwatering again or you'll underwater, lol, just don't get keep it soggy. They need alot of water and food at this specific time in there life. And this happens to everyone, you overwater, then you underwater, then you find your zen zone.
Anyways the PPM is 125 before adding anything.
The PH is 8.65
adding (to 1 gal water):
3tbs Big Bloom
2tbs tiger bloom
(not sure if i should do this but i did because when in doubt CAL MAG!!!!!!! lol) 5ml of cal mag
now reading :
PH of 6.19
PPM 788
TEMP 69.6 (never looked at this before i keep it in the basement with everything. ill warm this up to at least 75 before i water them today but is this temp an issue?)
US/CM (whatever the f this is and it's a n odd shaped U that looks like a 4) 1576
added MadFarmer GetUp to get PH up to 6.49
Watered 1 full gallon with barely any runoff.
Put in 1 bottle of purified water at 6.5ph afterwards to get a little more runoff. i got maybe a little more runoff. wasn't sure on straight water here because it may wash the feed out??? Total runoff estimation is about 1/5 to 1/6 a gallon.
Runoff -
PH - 6.25
PPM - 2120
4S/CM THINGY - 4240
We'll see how she responds.
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I cut off the 3 or 4 leaves that's were yellow and dying like 10 days or so ago and these are new....the new growth is starting to fade out as well.cant tell too much in the pictures
Here are some updated pics, the leaves are rapidly turning yellow and ends curling up brown.
Side by side of the first pics (up top)and today - today is on the right.
In my head i am thinking it is hungry, very hungry so it's eating the leaves to stay alive and support the bud growth? Idk.. I think out loud a lot - trying to learn the plant. The buds are growing pretty well though and have gained some considerable size in the last few days.
Side by side of the first pics (up top)and today - today is on the right.
In my head i am thinking it is hungry, very hungry so it's eating the leaves to stay alive and support the bud growth? Idk.. I think out loud a lot - trying to learn the plant. The buds are growing pretty well though and have gained some considerable size in the last few days.
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driver77
Well-Known Member
It's hungry because of ph lockout....If it were mine I'd hit it with humic acid and kelp.
What tells you that? Not that i dont believe you but want to know what you're seeing that says that so i can recognize it. How much Humic acid and kelp? I don't even know what that is.
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driver77
Well-Known Member
Because it looks like more than 1 deficiency. Humic acid will buffer ph in soil making nutrients available to the plant. The kelp works with humic acid and will keep your buds and sugar leaves nice and green.I use RAW brand but I'm sure any brand will work....I use 1/8 to 1/4 tsp humic acid and 1/8 tsp kelp.