Nitrogen?

jwilk02

Well-Known Member
I have posted before about this little one but i am so convinced that something is not right. i think she needs a little bit of nitrogen as she is very waxy and shiny, She is growing very bushy and not very many budding sites (if any) I have taken some pictures, the leaves on the floor is drying out on purpose (easier to get rid of when dry).

blueberry cheese auto
In coco pro plus 5.8ph - run off 5.6
Canna a & b 2ml per litre
4 weeks old from seed

I have just ordered some nitrogen but i have said a couple of times i think there might be a problem as some said its because she is young but as the days go on and really given her a good check all over i do not think she will make it like her sister (see pic 7). Found a leaf at the bottom (pic 8).
Nitrogen deficiency? She is not growing as i thought she would.

First time growing auto's so feel like i am back to square 1 learning again from scratch. Any advice would be a help please,

Thanks Guys
 

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Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Excessive nitrogen can and does interfere with normal flower formation ( malformation ) etc.

Too much nitrogen affects plant quality because it negatively impacts photosynthesis. Excess nitrogen in cannabis plants will prevent the correct formation of buds, reduce both yields and potency and can cause inferior buds.

Symptoms of excess nitrogen include thickened and sometimes cupped leaves with atypically deep green color. Overfertilization can cause leaves to turn brown, gray, dark green, or yellow at margins and tips or overall. Affected foliage may wilt temporarily or die and drop prematurely.

IMG_0306.jpeg
 

jwilk02

Well-Known Member
Excessive nitrogen can and does interfere with normal flower formation ( malformation ) etc.

Too much nitrogen affects plant quality because it negatively impacts photosynthesis. Excess nitrogen in cannabis plants will prevent the correct formation of buds, reduce both yields and potency and can cause inferior buds.

Symptoms of excess nitrogen include thickened and sometimes cupped leaves with atypically deep green color. Overfertilization can cause leaves to turn brown, gray, dark green, or yellow at margins and tips or overall. Affected foliage may wilt temporarily or die and drop prematurely.

View attachment 5297238
Thank you so much for your advice, she is a auto so what will happen. .... she is on day 3 with no feed, i thought she needed nitrogen so i ordered some last night and it is coming today. I have canna flush here so feed her flush (what ratio should i use as she is a auto?) and ph of 5.8?
I have only ever used canna a and b with no other nutes so how has this happened? is it just random or have i done something wrong? i have never used E.C could this be the problem?

do i flush every day or a good flush today and leave for a week? if so how many litres should i give her ? when do you think she will start to show improvement after flushing?
 

jwilk02

Well-Known Member
Are you giving equal amounts of A and B or are you following some genius' feedingprogram?
What are your temps?
Flush once until EC is low, then feed.
Hi,

Yes equal amounts of a & b feeding once every 2/3 days temps.... in tent (avg 25/27 humidity is 49% or the feed (never checked before)
gonna flush now do you think 6ltr's will be enough?
 

7CardBud

Well-Known Member
Having an EC meter never hurts, it will give you solid data as your growing experience expands.
I generated this chart using 0.3 EC starting water and using 2ml each per liter does not seem high at all for total EC.
I feel the CANNA formula is too high in N to begin with, with a total NPK of 5-4-3. Years ago I ran H&G and their combined NPK was 4-3-8.
I personally wouldn't try to flush, but reduce the N in the solution instead. Lower the high N portion to 1ml per liter (is the part A 4-0-1?)
....and fudge CANNA, another nutrient site that doesn't make their ingredients easily downloaded.
Hopefully the micros are in part B.
WeeksLight pro day
(hours)
COCO
ml per
1 liters
RHIZO
TONIC
ml per
1 liters
CANNA
ZYM
ml per
1 liters
PK
13/14
ml per
1 liters
CANNA
BOOST
ml per
1 liters
EC+EC Total
GrowthStart / rooting (3 –5 days)
Make substrate wet
<1181.9(A)
1.9(B)
4---0.91.2Vegetative phase
Vegetative phase I
Plant develops in volume
0-3a182.3(A)
2.3(B)
22.5--1.11.4
FloweringVegetative phase II
Up to growth stagnation after fructification or appearance of the formation of flowers
2-4b122.7(A)
2.7(B)
22.5-2 - 4e1.31.6
Generative Period I
Flowers or fruits develop in length.
Growth in height achieved
2-3123.4(A)
3.4(B)
0.52.5-2 - 41.61.9Generative Phase
Generative Period II
Development of the volume (breadth) of flowers or fruit
1123.8(A)
3.8(B)
0.52.51.52 - 41.82.1
Generative Period III
Development of the mass (weight) of flowers or fruit
2-3122.5(A)
2.5(B)
0.52.5-2 - 41.21.5
Generative Period IV
Flowers or fruit ripening process
1-210-12c--2.5 - 5d-2 - 4-0.3


Product line:COCO - Read more about this product line..
Your tanksize:1 liters
Scheduletype:Normal feeding
Water EC:0.3
Dosage units:ml/1 liters
Recommended pH:5.5 - 6.2
The guidelines in the table aren‘t an iron law, but can help novice growers to develop a sophisticated fertilisation strategy. The optimum fertilisation strategy is further determined by factors such as: temperature, humidity, plant species, root volume, moisture percentage in substrate, water dosage strategy, etc.
 
Hi,

Yes equal amounts of a & b feeding once every 2/3 days temps.... in tent (avg 25/27 humidity is 49% or the feed (never checked before)
gonna flush now do you think 6ltr's will be enough?
A n B are base feeding Nutes. Past week 3 imo, the only time I'd use them again is at flush. in a case where you find your N high the best thing to do is do a flush esp if the medium is Hydro... soil takes a bit longer to see the corrections...but for future reference I'd recommend a 3 part feeding schedule. Foxfarm for example has a product for each phase base, veg, bloom and flower... with the parts per gallon right on the label. you can tweak to your own liking but following the label will always be pretty safe. You have to measure EC and PH daily..esp PH...staying at 5.5- to < 6.0 seems like a pretty sweet spot where if you have a deficiency creep in it will be very slow and noticeable. Soil is tougher bc chemicals are more persistent in soil. Remember when you flush not all chems one at the same speed. so you also risk taking some good with the bad that's why ph is so important bc it ties directly to nutrient uptake. grab a PH chart that tells you what moves best at specific PH readings. Get a pool test kit if you want to avoid worrying about calibration of the meters.i personally love gadgets but the tube and 3 or 4 drops of ph indicator in your test (water/ run off) subject always seems more accurate to me.

also a shot of cal mag helps keep the plant in balance. and mycorrhizae (root inoculant) helps keep your roots health with beneficial bacteria.
it'll stop a lot of the imbalance problems to begin with.

fox farm beastie blooms, open sesame, and cha-chin (look at the NPK numbers on each) you don't have to buy, but the numbers show you
ratios at specific phases of your grow cycle.
 
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