itsmyfirsttimelol
Member
Ty guys! Ill try my best to save em but if it is to late ill just start over also I use rain water I've heard that's good. And wen I get my finances in order I was going to buy some fox farm soil. Sound good? Thanks again
Nobody Knows!!
- Thread starter itsmyfirsttimelol
- Start date
scroglodyte
Well-Known Member
every geno is different. some don't mind early nutes.....some do.
spex420
Well-Known Member
i start feeding the second they sprout with foxfarm superthrive nd bcuzz root every strain iv ever grown
its not lockout cuz they would be srsly effed up its just a def dude plain nd simple flush 1 gal of 6.8 thru wait till she drys out (really dry) then run 6.5 with epsom and superthrive if it doesnt get better in a week from then restart
richinweed
Active Member
hey dood, necrotic tissue is usually a flushing issue...ph/ over ppm wat ev caused it ,possibly over watering, let it get light and dry before next watering ,water till the point of decent run off.... forget about shoking it..IT IS ALREADY IN SHOCK!...give it a good flushing as per instructions u will find on this site...let it get light and dry again, then re-establish ph and so on,, jmho....good luck
Total Head
Well-Known Member
why are people telling this guy to flush a soil with time release fertilizer in it? the wetter that soil gets the more stuff gets released into the soil, so flushing at this point is extremely counterproductive. seeds should never be started in soil that hot. just because it has worked on other seeds doesn't mean it will work on this seed. always plant seeds in mild soil until they have a root mass.
if i were in this situation i would do one of two things.
a. (the preferred thing to do) i would let the soil dry out and transplant into a slightly larger pot with a milder soil, preferably one that doesn't have time release fert balls in it, at least until it recovers. once it bounces back and has a halfway decent root ball you can stick it in the MG soil all you want and it will be able to handle it.
b. this one is more of a shot in the dark and should only be tried if option A is impossible. let the soil dry out and scratch a little bit of powdered lime into the surface and then water thoroughly. sometimes if you have released too much fert into the soil it could become acidic and absorb too much of some nutes and not enough of another. since flushing MG soil is NOT A GOOD IDEA the lime will prevent further acidification and hopefully in a week or so you would see new growth.
if i were in this situation i would do one of two things.
a. (the preferred thing to do) i would let the soil dry out and transplant into a slightly larger pot with a milder soil, preferably one that doesn't have time release fert balls in it, at least until it recovers. once it bounces back and has a halfway decent root ball you can stick it in the MG soil all you want and it will be able to handle it.
b. this one is more of a shot in the dark and should only be tried if option A is impossible. let the soil dry out and scratch a little bit of powdered lime into the surface and then water thoroughly. sometimes if you have released too much fert into the soil it could become acidic and absorb too much of some nutes and not enough of another. since flushing MG soil is NOT A GOOD IDEA the lime will prevent further acidification and hopefully in a week or so you would see new growth.
spex420
Well-Known Member
ITS NOT NUTE BURN!!!!!!!!!
did anyone even bother to look at the pic i mean nute burn starts at a completely different aspect of the plant duh whatever the problem its allrdy to the advanced stage if it was nute the whole plant would be screwed not just the bottom leaves which means whatever the deficiency the top of the plant has from pop but as the plant trys to get nutrients the deficiency continues to get worse it progresses from the bottom of the plant, if it was the soil it woulda been screwed from seedling and look waay worse
just start new you've prolly allrdy screwed up the plant with all the mis information you've gotten just start new with some real soil ffof light warrior happy frog or coco
If you want to mix up some cheap soil to grow in its pretty easy...
Pickup the cheapest bag of potting soil or garden soil you can find scott's is good what i use on my mothers.
Buy a small bag of bloodmeal fertilizer.
Buy a bag of perlite
Buy a bag of dolomite lime.
Buy some cheap all purpose nutrients, and something higher in P/K(Cactus nutrients are usually higher in P/K).
Per gallon of soil mix in the following:
2 Tablespoons of bloodmeal
4 Tablespoons of Dolomite Lime
Then mix about a 4:1 ratio of Soil to Perlite, and yer good to grow.
About a month into veg start feeding a little bit of the all purpose nutrients, and when you switch to flower start using the nutrients with a higher P/K.
did anyone even bother to look at the pic i mean nute burn starts at a completely different aspect of the plant duh whatever the problem its allrdy to the advanced stage if it was nute the whole plant would be screwed not just the bottom leaves which means whatever the deficiency the top of the plant has from pop but as the plant trys to get nutrients the deficiency continues to get worse it progresses from the bottom of the plant, if it was the soil it woulda been screwed from seedling and look waay worse
just start new you've prolly allrdy screwed up the plant with all the mis information you've gotten just start new with some real soil ffof light warrior happy frog or coco
If you want to mix up some cheap soil to grow in its pretty easy...
Pickup the cheapest bag of potting soil or garden soil you can find scott's is good what i use on my mothers.
Buy a small bag of bloodmeal fertilizer.
Buy a bag of perlite
Buy a bag of dolomite lime.
Buy some cheap all purpose nutrients, and something higher in P/K(Cactus nutrients are usually higher in P/K).
Per gallon of soil mix in the following:
2 Tablespoons of bloodmeal
4 Tablespoons of Dolomite Lime
Then mix about a 4:1 ratio of Soil to Perlite, and yer good to grow.
About a month into veg start feeding a little bit of the all purpose nutrients, and when you switch to flower start using the nutrients with a higher P/K.
420killabud
Member
You have the answer to your problem in this thread. You also have some... well lets just say, less than spectacular answers here.
It is not nute burn. Its a salt build-up from too many nutes available in the soil. The salt build-up has caused lock-out of possibly more than one nute, Def appears to at the very least be a mag lock-out. This is because of your MG soil. Flushing is the only way to cure salt build-up. In MG soil, a flush is pointless. You would just screw the plants more than they already are. A flush WILL NOT help you, unless you get rid of that MG soil.
Best of luck to you.
It is not nute burn. Its a salt build-up from too many nutes available in the soil. The salt build-up has caused lock-out of possibly more than one nute, Def appears to at the very least be a mag lock-out. This is because of your MG soil. Flushing is the only way to cure salt build-up. In MG soil, a flush is pointless. You would just screw the plants more than they already are. A flush WILL NOT help you, unless you get rid of that MG soil.
Best of luck to you.
Harrekin
Well-Known Member
Agreed. You CANNOT leach soil with time release nutes in them.
Also one thing that hasnt been mentioned is that cannabis is a Mag whore and last I checked MG soil doesn't have any. I personally wouldn't start seeds in any soil that isn't a high quality lightly nuted organic tho, it feeds enough and slowly enough to keep your plants perfectly green but not overfeed until you're ready to feed them a high quality COMPLETE nutrient.
