doublejj
Well-Known Member
Can you imagine spraying 50lbs of DE everywhere?.....and I mean everywhere..DE is cheap
Last edited:
Nuggs 2015 russet mite war
- Thread starter nuggs
- Start date
I've been using that for about a year and half. Works good. I rotate it with azamax weekly until week 4 of flower then stop and only use mitey wash if needed.
getawaymountain
Well-Known Member
better late than never nuggs !! lol.. good luck with this season with bugs
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
I have my 600W about 12" bulb to plant tissue, constant breeze keeps it 78-82, its a conversion MH spectrum bulb- the one I have my "skinnies" under and I am so happy with it would much rather use it than the 1000- how are your temps in there? Glad to see some ladies around, looking good 
nuggs
Well-Known Member
the temp is 70-75 18-6 I'm alittle afraid to get it too close. that's how I fried the first one's under the 1000 mhLI have my 600W about 12" bulb to plant tissue, constant breeze keeps it 78-82, its a conversion MH spectrum bulb- the one I have my "skinnies" under and I am so happy with it would much rather use it than the 1000- how are your temps in there? Glad to see some ladies around, looking good
mikeykrinshaw12
Well-Known Member
I completely understand- better to go on the side of caution, can always move it down a little if they seem to stretch too much, and they are only going to grow closer to the light anyways. I keep the 1000W mh about 2 to 2 1/2 feet away from the plants (bulb to tissue), but I also strongly suspect that if I switch out the 1000W MH bulb for a different MH bulb (same kind as the 400 running next to it), then I would probably be Ok with it being 18" to 2ft away, 16" to 18" with glass heat shield in place. I'm really looking forward to that down the road actually. the bulbs do make all the difference.
HPS is very different, denser light, different spectral output.
Use your hand. Put your hand at the canopy. If it feels too warm its too warm for your plants. Raise the light until you can keep your hand there and not feel the heat from the bulb.
nuggs
Well-Known Member
I'm just playing around with this light and grow for that matter. Ok cool Adower. Actually that's how I set it up when I hung the light. GB told me to do it that way. Thanks for your help and the Idea of the green clean. I've never heard of it before . I ordered it in case I need it.
Kygiacomo
Well-Known Member
ive never had these i hope i dont but a few things i found might be of interest for u nuggz...sulfur dust and this post from IC mag..gl bro hope u defeat these fkers
"Now if you want an effective organic solution to kill them try 1 tsp of Dr Bronners organic liquid soap in one gallon of clean warm water and get the lavender oil one if you can find it. Then add 25 drops of lavender essential oil, 10 drops of eucalyptus oil, and 10 drops of tea tree oil or peppermint works too and then shake well with the cap on and add in 1 heaping tsp of pure neem seed oil and shake the mixture very well. Spray down the plants liberally on the top and undersides of leafs in low light and make sure they are not in bright intense light while this dries or it can burn them. You can also spray the surface of the soil and the containers as well, this stuff smells great and is totally non-toxic. It also kills other mites dead along with fungus gnats and larvae in the soil, if you do a light soil drench you will see larvae coming up to the surface wriggling around and dying. The lavender oil really knocks the shit out of the mites, including spidermites, aphids and most other random pests. The ultimate solution though if you don't want to spray anything is to just introduce a shitload of ladybugs onto all your plants and make sure your lights are covered so they can't get inside of them because they are attracted to it and you will end up with a million dead ladybugs in your lights. Ladybugs just love pot plants.
Ladybugs will also rip mites the fuck up like it's nobodies business"
if your not to fussy about chemical products,what alot of tabaco,tomatoe and strawberry growers swear by is abamectin (this is the active ingredient in product.the brand names are different to the active ingredient name.product name varies in different countrys) it kills 99.9% of all species of mites and a few other bugs.its not systematic though it works for several weeks.do a google search for product name in your country
"Now if you want an effective organic solution to kill them try 1 tsp of Dr Bronners organic liquid soap in one gallon of clean warm water and get the lavender oil one if you can find it. Then add 25 drops of lavender essential oil, 10 drops of eucalyptus oil, and 10 drops of tea tree oil or peppermint works too and then shake well with the cap on and add in 1 heaping tsp of pure neem seed oil and shake the mixture very well. Spray down the plants liberally on the top and undersides of leafs in low light and make sure they are not in bright intense light while this dries or it can burn them. You can also spray the surface of the soil and the containers as well, this stuff smells great and is totally non-toxic. It also kills other mites dead along with fungus gnats and larvae in the soil, if you do a light soil drench you will see larvae coming up to the surface wriggling around and dying. The lavender oil really knocks the shit out of the mites, including spidermites, aphids and most other random pests. The ultimate solution though if you don't want to spray anything is to just introduce a shitload of ladybugs onto all your plants and make sure your lights are covered so they can't get inside of them because they are attracted to it and you will end up with a million dead ladybugs in your lights. Ladybugs just love pot plants.
Ladybugs will also rip mites the fuck up like it's nobodies business"
if your not to fussy about chemical products,what alot of tabaco,tomatoe and strawberry growers swear by is abamectin (this is the active ingredient in product.the brand names are different to the active ingredient name.product name varies in different countrys) it kills 99.9% of all species of mites and a few other bugs.its not systematic though it works for several weeks.do a google search for product name in your country
nuggs
Well-Known Member
great info Kyg ! I don't have any mites yet and hope I don't this year. I'm just treating them as if they are still here and they very well could be. They were here a little bit over the 4-5 years past ,last year they got me for 75% .I didn't know what I was fighting until last year. the sulfur dust will work but, TWS says that in his trial of using it he could still taste the sulfur. If I don't do some prevention I think I'll have issues with them again. abamectin is the active ingredient in Avid. I'm going to spray the ground and my surrounding area with avid then bring in new soil.
after planting I'm going to spray organic and if I can get to aug. 1 I'll have them beat.
after planting I'm going to spray organic and if I can get to aug. 1 I'll have them beat.
Kygiacomo
Well-Known Member
also found that SNS217c works..but since i found ur post im reading more on it bc i want to be in total prevention this year after lasts years bout with fkn bud rot..im going hardcore on the prevention plan of everday thing..and ya i hear ya bro i had the same issue with fungas gant larave..i been fighting those mfers for 3 years now and i had no ideal what they was..one day my plants would look beautiful and all stretched toward the sun with open arms and then the next time i went back to water which was like 2-3 days they would be wilted to hell and death quickly followed..they would tunnel into the base of the stem and turn it into mush and cut my plant into..i called them little lumberjacks..they looked like maggets and i tried to type in ever damn thing but nothing would come out..then one day i was browseing some threads on IC and seen a pic of someone asking what they was and i knew immedialty that was what was fkn up my guerilla grows..we cant beat the fkers if we have no ideal what we are dealing with..those little fuckers has costed me 1000's$ in past 3 years..i got everthing this year neem oil,karnaja oil,neem cake,karnanja cake, skeeter dunks,sns-204,sns209,sns217 and i think im gonna go on and grab me some live nematodes just to to put them in my holes to be on the safe side..it sounds like overkill i know but like u i want to be certain..same with the budrot prevention..i got nothing but all outdoor proven strains, Protekt,actinovate,sns244c,greencure, and sernade..im sick of getting fked one way or another by things i can control to a degree..usallly end up at end of season with 3-4 plants out of 15 or 20 that i put out..even gonna buy the coyoate piss to put around my guerilla plots along with the chicken wire..last year i was at wits end and just wanted to fkn quit..i went home and thought about it and thought about it and i said fkk this shit..im not gonna let these fkn things fkk up my smoke and started doing research on it ever day since last sept..in 7 years before i never had these issues at all or not enuff for me to notice or raise alarm over it...i was growing the local strains that all the kentucky boys has been growing for years and years here but i never knew each year what i was gonna get from buddys..sometimes it was fkn awesome and i would love to have feminzed seeds of it bc i would still grow some and then other years it was shit and they was all regular seeds so i had to plant double and work my balls off to only end up with males that i killed..when i started ordering fem seeds is when all the issues started showing up due to picking the wrong strains etc and differnt acclimatizations of strains..
damn i just noticed what a long winded post lol im fried sorry it wasnt intended to be that long when i started
nuggs
Well-Known Member
go to page 68 on this thread and watch the videos
Kygiacomo
Well-Known Member
damn those thigns are insane looking..i dont think i have ever had these in my guerilla plots..ive never had that damage that i seen in the vidoes..my problem was always bud rot and fungas gnat larave..i will folair with neem/karnaja 50/50 ratios and will do some soil drenches this year with neem oil as well since it is systemic and if these fkers ever suck anything off my plant they will die..since i dont have a grow room i cant do some the things mention but i also found this from a guy on IC..even the guys that he recommended it to come back saying it worked and no plant damage but u can take it for what its work just throwing out more tools for all to read..
"For those that don't know, you can kill these things with heat. Not talking about hot water dunks, which can harm plants (tried it), but rather heating up your grow space. Leave lights on, turn off all AC and fans. You want to get the room to 120 degrees F. You my have to add a space heater. Once you have temperatures of 120 F, leave it like that for one hour. Plants will not be damaged at all, but mites (all kinds) will be dead. I have done this several times with no ill effects to the plants. Haven't really experimented with times, just left them for an hour, but you could probably leave them longer. Must repeat every 3 days to get newly hatched eggs, if any survive. This really works, as mites can't survive high temps. That's why green houses and commercial growers use hot water dips, but I found this to hurt some plants, while high room temps have no ill effects. Like to see someone else try this. Guaranteed not to hurt your plants."
"For those that don't know, you can kill these things with heat. Not talking about hot water dunks, which can harm plants (tried it), but rather heating up your grow space. Leave lights on, turn off all AC and fans. You want to get the room to 120 degrees F. You my have to add a space heater. Once you have temperatures of 120 F, leave it like that for one hour. Plants will not be damaged at all, but mites (all kinds) will be dead. I have done this several times with no ill effects to the plants. Haven't really experimented with times, just left them for an hour, but you could probably leave them longer. Must repeat every 3 days to get newly hatched eggs, if any survive. This really works, as mites can't survive high temps. That's why green houses and commercial growers use hot water dips, but I found this to hurt some plants, while high room temps have no ill effects. Like to see someone else try this. Guaranteed not to hurt your plants."