Nut problem or Plant problem?

Did you get your heat pad online or know a place online that has cheap nicer one?

I bought it at the hydro store

I do have a shop around here but they are just so damn expensive. I thought about going to a pharmacy and getting a heater for your back or something like that. I would worry that the thing would get to hot and fry them. I def need one with a hemostat or I wont worry myself to death while im at work.

It's worth it

Thanks for the help jcdws

AlwaysFUBAR said:

I have a 18gal container (walmart special). Four 5inch net pots with silica stone that get 2gph drippers that run for 30min 4 times a day. I have a bubbler at the bottom of the res that runs 24/7. I clone in 2in cubes. I only keep 4 gals in the res.

Any other info you think would help please let me know.

Click to expand...

several problems...

Cuttings taken from a plant in flower are notoriously difficult to strike, but worse, the plants (if you can get them to root) will already be in flowering mode, meaning they won't gain height or size- they'll just try to make buds. They'll have to be revegged under 18+h/day light until they display a normal veg growth habit if you expect them to gain height.

Slow rooting in RW cubes is usually attributable to cubes being kept too wet. See the link in my sig to cloning in RW.

You definitely need a horticultural heat mat for cloning. Do NOT use a heating pad for people. A horticultural heat mat will either be fixed at 30C or will have a thermostat which allows you to set it to that temp. Heating pads get far too hot, don't have adequate temp regulation and are not waterproof.

Your plants look seriously overwatered. There's no need for both a drip and a bubbler watering system. If you're going to water with a drip system, use drip rings to wet the rock chip media. Never put a dripper right on a RW cube.

pH should be 5.8.

If you use a bubbler/DWC watering system, maintain nute temps around 20-24C.

Seriously reconsider use of organic nutes. They're incompatible with H2O2, which is the most effective means of pathogen control, particularly useful in DWC.

I'm not sure what sort of rock chips you're using, but make sure they're an inert sort of rock like marble or quartz. Limestone chips will play merry hell with pH.

To recover from this, get some mother plants back into veg mode, will take 6-8 weeks if they have previously been flowered. They will display some odd growth patterns (1-bladed fan leaves, elongated bud-like structures) until they return to full veg mode. They'll need to be run under 18-24h/day light and must be cut back 2-3 times in the revegging period.

Once you have good mums going again, do a batch of cuttings in 40mm RW cubes, on a proper heat mat. They should root for you in about 10 days max and then can be chucked in to flower.