Nute deficiency or nute lock?

If I understand right, If water/feedings are always PH 6.5 (in soil) then problems must be deficiency or nute lock, correct? My question is how do you decide which it is?

What's your problem?

This is my problem.



3 weeks in flower, they started getting lighter last week but this morning I found this new damage. The last pic was 2 weeks ago.

What kind of nutes are you using, and how much? Have you checked the run off PH?
GS

I started it out in MG through veg and re potted 1 week before flower in an organic pro mix. I started with Big Bloom only at the flip (1/4 strength, now up to half strength) last couple feedings I added 1 tbs of molasses and the last feeding I added a 6-9-6 (1/2 dose) 5 days ago. The run off is 6.1 - 6.4.

I am flushing right now, as it seems that is suggested for just about everything. Now, I need to know if I should add nutes now? or wait until it dries out? I am going blind from all the threads and viewing pics trying to find something similar.

Thanks for taking an interest...

N defficiency?

You have 2 issues going on here. You have a mag lock out caused by low nitrogen.
Flush with 25% nutrients till you get lots of run off. Your do this because some elements can't move without other elements presence. Mag will remain locked in the plant if nitrogen levels are low. I recommend never treating for 1 element as you can see you could be wrong and that would do more harm.

I would get some Cal-mag and use it at 1/2 recommended on the label for the first 2 feeds after the flush. Than cut back to 1/4 recommended and stop using 2 weeks before harvest. If your plants start looking dark deep green back off on the Cal-mag. The Cal-mag will add whats missing from the plants diet.

what is your opinion on NPK? I'm looking at 4-10-7 or 5-7-3 for flowering. I hope I get a quick response, my husband will be calling me any minute to find out what I decided on lol

Do you have access to a local hydro shop? If so, get Foxfarms, Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom. Follow the directions on the bottles, you can't go wrong. Also need to get some Botanicare Cal Mag. Again follow the directions.
If you have no hydro shop, Get the 4-10-7. My Tiger Bloom is 2-8-4, so... anything closest would be good.
GS
PS You don't have to get the Grow Big if your on a budget, but you will need it when you veg again. Big Bloom is basically a micro nutrient supplement, so I would suggest getting it.

countrygirl said:

what is your opinion on NPK? I'm looking at 4-10-7 or 5-7-3 for flowering. I hope I get a quick response, my husband will be calling me any minute to find out what I decided on lol

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I would go with the 4-10-7 and keep an eye for yellowing on the bottom leaves during the first 6 weeks of growing.

GodSlave said:

Do you have access to a local hydro shop? If so, get Foxfarms, Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom. Follow the directions on the bottles, you can't go wrong. Also need to get some Botanicare Cal Mag. Again follow the directions.
If you have no hydro shop, Get the 4-10-7. My Tiger Bloom is 2-8-4, so... anything closest would be good.
GS
PS You don't have to get the Grow Big if your on a budget, but you will need it when you veg again. Big Bloom is basically a micro nutrient supplement, so I would suggest getting it.

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Thanks! I did get the 4-10-7 Dr Earth Premium Organic Bud Bloom Booster. I already have the Big Bloom. I tried the Tiger Bloom a few times last year and I didn't like it. I gave a plant I have in veg a 1/2 dose of Dr Earths all purpose 3-3-3 and 1/2 dose of Big Bloom and my plant LOVED it.

woodsmaneh! said:

I would go with the 4-10-7 and keep an eye for yellowing on the bottom leaves during the first 6 weeks of growing.

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The first 6 weeks have always been awesome, my problems start at 2 to 4 weeks into flower. I have tried peoples advice but it seems it happened even earlier this time. I have a plant 2 weeks behind this one and it is still green and lovely, if I don't get this straitened out I know it will do the same. sigh

One thing I have been working on is my PH. I thought I had it all figured out and I read on a thread today to PH BEFORE nutes not AFTER adding them???? OMG If that's the case no wonder I'm struggling.

countrygirl said:

One thing I have been working on is my PH. I thought I had it all figured out and I read on a thread today to PH BEFORE nutes not AFTER adding them???? OMG If that's the case no wonder I'm struggling.

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How do you Ph before nutes? That makes no sense to me...
It sounds like you are on track with Ph, so I wouldn't worry about that.
GS

I would add 1/4 cal-mag to all your feeding and the problem will go away. You still need to figger out why your having the issues and the first place would be what your feeding them. I have always Ph my water before adding any food as the acid will damage what ever it comes into contact till dissolved. I always start at 6.5 to 7.0 Ph. That gives me wiggle room when I add the food. I check after it's all done and than adjust next time for the reading + or - Ph. For example if I start at 6.5 add food and ph again and it comes out at 5.8 next time I will ph the water closer to 7.0 so when I add food it will come back at 6.4+-

woodsmaneh! said:

I would add 1/4 cal-mag to all your feeding and the problem will go away. You still need to figger out why your having the issues and the first place would be what your feeding them. I have always Ph my water before adding any food as the acid will damage what ever it comes into contact till dissolved. I always start at 6.5 to 7.0 Ph. That gives me wiggle room when I add the food. I check after it's all done and than adjust next time for the reading + or - Ph. For example if I start at 6.5 add food and ph again and it comes out at 5.8 next time I will ph the water closer to 7.0 so when I add food it will come back at 6.4+-

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Ok, that makes sense. Are you saying the acid damages the nutes? Something to think about.
I've always ph'd after adding nutes, but I'll take a look @ this...
GS

OH! That makes much more sense. So, if the nutes dropped your PH too low you could use a higher ph water to adjust maybe?

If I fix the cal/mag, that will allow the plant to take in N? I really am trying to understand all this so I can apply it properly.

Thanks to all for the input.

woodsmaneh! said:

I would add 1/4 cal-mag to all your feeding and the problem will go away. You still need to figger out why your having the issues and the first place would be what your feeding them. I have always Ph my water before adding any food as the acid will damage what ever it comes into contact till dissolved. I always start at 6.5 to 7.0 Ph. That gives me wiggle room when I add the food. I check after it's all done and than adjust next time for the reading + or - Ph. For example if I start at 6.5 add food and ph again and it comes out at 5.8 next time I will ph the water closer to 7.0 so when I add food it will come back at 6.4+-

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I can't get out to get cal/mag so I'm wondering if foliar feeding with my nutes that have .5% mag would help until I get to town.

Hi CountryGirl dont foliar spray your plants with nutes unless they say you can on bottle some nutes can burn your leafs.
Try going to your local chemist or asda, tescos and see if you can pick up some epsom salts it comes in a small box white powder I normally add a teaspoon of salts to 1 litres of water/feed. in your case id stick a teaspoon of salts in and 1-2ml of grow and see how they go. hope the advice helps.

rizzla2008

Tomorrow will be 5 weeks in flower. Do you think it will make it to harvest? The purple edges started maybe a week ago. higher N didn't work, ph is good, temps are good, I didn't try the epsom salt 1: because I didn't have any 2: because I didn't see the resemblance in leaf damage to pics I found online. I do have the salts now in case I chose to add it. So here they are 10 days later and worse for the wear... sigh