first off, pick up a cheap EC meter off amazon/ebay/local store. $35 bucks will get you a decent one.
dyna gro foliage pro is a great veg nute. it was lacking during flower in my opinion.
I know this is a 5 year old comment but DAMN I wish I would have read your info on FFOF soil with their nutrient trio. I've been growing now for a little over a year and thats what I've been using. I grow autos as well. Whats crazy is certain strains of autos (Fast Buds Girl Scout Cookies) for example, can handle way more nutrients than most other autos that I've grown. But most of their new strains.... Forbidden Runtz, Purple Punch, etc... burn like crazy if you give them anything other than maybe a tiny bit of Cal Mag if necessary before week 6. I'm a relatively new grower so at first I thought maybe I had deficiencies so I'd feed them more... my plants woukd always have at least a little bit of nutrient burn. I've been searching for the past couple weeks for someone that had any kind of specific info about growing in FFOF soil with their nutrients and autos. I just came across your post and now everything makes sense. Have you ever had any autos that needed anything before week 6? And did you add Perlite to your soil? If so, how much? I thought about adding about the top 1/3 of the pot with Happy Frog so its not so hot on the babies. They seem to grow better/faster if you use Happy Frog for them for the first 2 weeksThis what i use for a schedule ( AUTO PLANTS ) when using FOX FARM NUTES and SOIL ( ocean forest ). Autos are light feeders and suffer from overfeeding easily and can get burned.
When i run Ocean Forest ... I dont feed shit until week 6 ! Only nutes the auto plant gets are straight from the soil , NOTHING ELSE.
I even use tap water .... Because the soil will buffer the PH on its own. NO DRAMA !
*** NO NUTRIENTS OR SUPPLEMENTS until at least week 7. Fox Farms Ocean Forest potting soil is perfect for AF plants because the soil will stay hot for about 6 weeks!
I cannot over stress this point. Through trial and error I have found that if you feed your plants before week 6 (in FFOF soil) they will burn VERY easily. Everything becomes unbalanced. I just let the plant draw what it needs from the soil.
*** At the beginning of week 6 I give them a half dose of GROW BIG . ( 1 tsp per gallon of water ).
*** At the beginning of week 7 , I give them a quarter dose of Tiger Bloom ( 1/2 tsp per gallon water ). Add one full dose of Big Bloom ( 3 tsp per gallon ) and 1 tablespoon of blackstrap molasses / grandma's molasses ( OPTIONAL ).
*** At week 8 - add 1/2 tsp Tiger Bloom and 3 tsp Big Bloom and
1 tblsp BSM ( optional ).
*** Week 9 - 2 Tablespoons of BSM ( molasses ) / water
**** Week 10 - FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH -
( Note : You really don't have to do this but i do and it is what it is. )
Autos cans fade their leaves on there own , and doesnt mean they are deficient.
Check your triches and watch the pistils change and recede.
Remember Breeder estimates on harvest time are under OPTIMAL GROWING CONDITIONS - Mileage will vary
Most of my Autos go down for chopping up to Day 77 or so.
Don't chop too early - they will ripen when they are done , not by days.
I only use this method for AUTOS - regular photoseeds i stick to their feed schedule ( by half ).
Peace
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Also....you never have to add ANY Grow at any time later in flower? I'm surprised you don't even have to add that at least once just for a little N in early to mid flower. I have well water at home that comes out of the tap at 6.5 Ph on the dot and has only 55-70ppm in it. Are you sure you don't have to Ph your nutrients at least after you've added them to your water when you're going to feed them? I'm so used to Ph'ing my feeding water and my runoff water for Ph/ ppm readings. Are you saying I don't need to do either of those things?
One more thing...lol.... I have some autos that go to day 90ish (and some Mephisto autos that get close to day 100 occasionally) Big harvests even with all the issues I had. Should I extend week 8 for another couple weeks until I get to my 2 week flush period?This what i use for a schedule ( AUTO PLANTS ) when using FOX FARM NUTES and SOIL ( ocean forest ). Autos are light feeders and suffer from overfeeding easily and can get burned.
When i run Ocean Forest ... I dont feed shit until week 6 ! Only nutes the auto plant gets are straight from the soil , NOTHING ELSE.
I even use tap water .... Because the soil will buffer the PH on its own. NO DRAMA !
*** NO NUTRIENTS OR SUPPLEMENTS until at least week 7. Fox Farms Ocean Forest potting soil is perfect for AF plants because the soil will stay hot for about 6 weeks!
I cannot over stress this point. Through trial and error I have found that if you feed your plants before week 6 (in FFOF soil) they will burn VERY easily. Everything becomes unbalanced. I just let the plant draw what it needs from the soil.
*** At the beginning of week 6 I give them a half dose of GROW BIG . ( 1 tsp per gallon of water ).
*** At the beginning of week 7 , I give them a quarter dose of Tiger Bloom ( 1/2 tsp per gallon water ). Add one full dose of Big Bloom ( 3 tsp per gallon ) and 1 tablespoon of blackstrap molasses / grandma's molasses ( OPTIONAL ).
*** At week 8 - add 1/2 tsp Tiger Bloom and 3 tsp Big Bloom and
1 tblsp BSM ( optional ).
*** Week 9 - 2 Tablespoons of BSM ( molasses ) / water
**** Week 10 - FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH -
( Note : You really don't have to do this but i do and it is what it is. )
Autos cans fade their leaves on there own , and doesnt mean they are deficient.
Check your triches and watch the pistils change and recede.
Remember Breeder estimates on harvest time are under OPTIMAL GROWING CONDITIONS - Mileage will vary
Most of my Autos go down for chopping up to Day 77 or so.
Don't chop too early - they will ripen when they are done , not by days.
I only use this method for AUTOS - regular photoseeds i stick to their feed schedule ( by half ).
Peace
View attachment 3647380 View attachment 3647381
Look at comparable “ harvest ready “ pics to see what a full mature or harvest ready looks like.
I have a question.... what happens if you get to the beginning of week 6 (day 36) and your auto is still looking completely healthy and showing no signs of any kind of deficiency? Do you still feed it anyway or wait maybe until the start of week 7 (day 43) and then just start Bloom nutrients instead of having to use any Grow at all? I figured that if there are no signs of deficiencies, you would burn your plant feeding it when it doesn't need it yet. I have a girl on day 35 that is still lush green with absolutely no signs of any kind of a deficiency. Not even any kind of Cal Mag deficiency spots (I did give her 1/4 strength dose of Cal Mag about 6 days ago before I had read your post) luckily that didn't burn her at all.This what i use for a schedule ( AUTO PLANTS ) when using FOX FARM NUTES and SOIL ( ocean forest ). Autos are light feeders and suffer from overfeeding easily and can get burned.
When i run Ocean Forest ... I dont feed shit until week 6 ! Only nutes the auto plant gets are straight from the soil , NOTHING ELSE.
I even use tap water .... Because the soil will buffer the PH on its own. NO DRAMA !
*** NO NUTRIENTS OR SUPPLEMENTS until at least week 7. Fox Farms Ocean Forest potting soil is perfect for AF plants because the soil will stay hot for about 6 weeks!
I cannot over stress this point. Through trial and error I have found that if you feed your plants before week 6 (in FFOF soil) they will burn VERY easily. Everything becomes unbalanced. I just let the plant draw what it needs from the soil.
*** At the beginning of week 6 I give them a half dose of GROW BIG . ( 1 tsp per gallon of water ).
*** At the beginning of week 7 , I give them a quarter dose of Tiger Bloom ( 1/2 tsp per gallon water ). Add one full dose of Big Bloom ( 3 tsp per gallon ) and 1 tablespoon of blackstrap molasses / grandma's molasses ( OPTIONAL ).
*** At week 8 - add 1/2 tsp Tiger Bloom and 3 tsp Big Bloom and
1 tblsp BSM ( optional ).
*** Week 9 - 2 Tablespoons of BSM ( molasses ) / water
**** Week 10 - FLUSH FLUSH FLUSH -
( Note : You really don't have to do this but i do and it is what it is. )
Autos cans fade their leaves on there own , and doesnt mean they are deficient.
Check your triches and watch the pistils change and recede.
Remember Breeder estimates on harvest time are under OPTIMAL GROWING CONDITIONS - Mileage will vary
Most of my Autos go down for chopping up to Day 77 or so.
Don't chop too early - they will ripen when they are done , not by days.
I only use this method for AUTOS - regular photoseeds i stick to their feed schedule ( by half ).
Peace
View attachment 3647380 View attachment 3647381
I flush my plants every single time. No way I'm leaving chemicals in my soil. I usually give plain water for the last week and a half, and if there are still high ppm's in my runoff, I'll give it a big flush til my ppm is below 100. My tap water (which is well water) comes out of the tap at 50-70 ppm so I'm only leaving at most 30ppm of chemicals in the soil. Then I let them sit for another 3 days to dry out and then chop them...From what I understand, doesn't stressing them out a bit during late flower make the plant put all its energy into bulking up the buds or producing more trichomes? I've heard something to that effect before. It makes sense to me. Plants always try to protect themselves