nutrient issue ??

WeedPublican

Active Member
This is a very helpful chart i saved from another post here RIU ":


Yellowing of Younger leaves............. Fe, Mn.
Yellowing of Middle leaves................ Mo.
Yellowing of Older leaves................. N, K, Mg, Zn.
Yellowing Between veins................. Mg, Mn.
Old leaves drop................................ N.
Leaf Curl Over.................................. Mg.
Leaf Curl Under................................ K, Cu, Over Fert.
Leaf tips burn, Younger leaves........ B.
Leaf tips burn, Older leaves............. N, Zn.
Young leaves wrinkle and curl.......... K, Zn, B, Mo.
Dead areas in the leaves................. K, Mg, Fe, Zn, Mn.
Leaf growth stunted........................ N, P.
Dark green/purplish leaves and stems......... P.
Pale green leaf color..................................... N, Mo.
Leaf Spotting.......................................... ...... Zn.
Spindly........................................... ............... N.
Soft stems............................................. ....... N, K.
Hard/brittle stems........................................ P, K.
Growing tips die........................................... K.
Stunted root growth.................................... P.
Wilting........................................... ............... Cu.




Use this chart as a reference ONLY. This is not a guaranteed diagnosis of your plant and you should only use this as a guideline to help you figure out what your nutrient solution is lacking...





ELEMENT and Description of Deficiency and Toxicity


N (Nitrogen) .................. Deficiency: Plants will exhibit lack of vigor as older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.


Toxicity: Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.
P (Phosphorus) ...........Deficiency: Plants are stunted and older leaves often dark dull green in color. Stems, petioles may turn purple. Plant maturity is often delayed.
Toxicity: This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability of copper and zinc.
K (Potassium) .......... Deficiency: Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken.


Toxicity: Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron.
S (Sulfur) .......... Deficiency: The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward.


Toxicity: Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges.
Mg (Magnesium) .......... Deficiency: The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins.


Toxicity: Magnesium toxicity are rare and not generally exhibited visibly.


Ca (Calcium) .......... Deficiency: Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited and roots may be underdeveloped or die back. Fruit may be stunted or deformed.


Toxicity: Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank.
Fe (Iron) ........... Deficiency: Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that cased by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.


Toxicity: Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.


Mn (Manganese) .......... Deficiency: Interveinal chlorosis on younger or older leaves followed by necrotic lesions or leaf shedding. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
Toxicity: Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.


Cl (Chlorine) .......... Deficiency: Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips.


Toxicity: Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.


B (Boron) .......... Deficiency: Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.
Toxicity: Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.
Zn (Zinc) .......... Deficiency: Chlorosis may accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled.
Toxicity: Zinc in excess is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency.
Cu (Copper) .......... Deficiency: Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.
Toxicity: Reduced growth followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots. This element is essential but extremely toxic in excess.
Mo (Molybdenum) .......... Deficiency: Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die.
Toxicity: Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities.


Thanks to King Kron from another board."
 

corners

Well-Known Member
maybe a cal/mag issue. You can also foliar feed with the epsom salt which will show more immediate results. Just takes a little longer through he soil to show results. If i use distilled water with any cal/mag i get this pretty bad(when i didnt know any better)
 

Michelangelo00

Active Member
I ran across this from Greg Greens "Grow Bible"

Before we begin we should tell you what a chemical burn is. A chemical burn is what the plant suffers because of over-feeding. A chemical burn can be compared to a half-smoked joint. At the tip of the joint you have this shrivelled grey ash, in the middle you have the burn creeping towards new paper which leaves a pattern behind it, and then you have the part you have not smoked yet. A plant burn looks like this almost. The plant sucks up the water and the food. It distributes these elements to the leaves at the bottom first and then works it way up the plant. This process takes days to work as you know FROM WATERING and WHEN TO WATER! The damage starts at the tips of the leaf and slowly moves to the centre of the leaf, leaving behind it some crispy matter that flakes away between your fingers. This is what a chemical burn looks like. A nutrient problem does not look burnt. A nutrient problem looks like a cell collapse with discoloration. The part may wither and die, but it should not look burnt. That is major difference between a chemical burn and a nutrient problem. In time you should be able to tell the difference for yourself.

Also check your pH. If your pH is not right, then solve the pH problem before you go and do anything else.

A) Look at your problem and quickly search for any bugs. When you have completed this search, eliminate any bug problems by using the advice in the bug chapter. Also note the type of attack to make sure that it is not a bug problem AND is a nutrient problem, which can happen. Do your leaves look sucked and dry? Do you have any black dots on them like bugs? Try to tell the difference between a bug attack and a nutrient problem. Nutrient problems damage the plant on a somewhat consistent level. Bug attacks are less consistent in the damaged generated. They leave damaged patches everywhere on your plant.

If the problem seems to affects only the lower portion of your plant and or a bit of the middle then read B). If it is only effects the top of your plant and the tips then you should go to J). If the plant is covered with the problem then go to F).

B) If your plant is in vegetative growth and the leaves are going very yellow, then you need more Nitrogen. If your plant is in flowering and you have stunted growth, yellow leaves and it looks to be dying then you need more Nitrogen. If your plant is in flowering and does not look like it is dying but looks red or dark green/yellow then you need to treat it with more P, which is Phosphorus. If these do not help then go to C.

C) If your plant has leaves that are curling up, twisting and are going yellow then check to see if your light is burning them or if the grow chamber has enough air circulation. If this is fine then you need to consider adding more Mg which is Magnesium to your plants. Epsom salts are good - 1/4 - 1/3 table spoon of Epsom salts to 3 gallons of water is fine. If you still have a problem go to D).

D) If the tips of the leaves turn brown and curl slightly then you are looking at a K problem which is Potassium problem. If not, move onto E.

E) Does your plant look wilted? Maybe you over- watered? If not, go to F.

F) The veins are green, but the leaves are yellow. This is an Iron problem, Fe. If not, move on to G:)

G) Leaves are not twisted but are yellow at the base. The tips are fine. This is a Manganese problem, which is (Mn). If not, move on to H).

H) Still haven't solved it? Then flush your soil and find another type of plant food that has all of these. N, P, K, Ca, Mg and S. Get Epsom Salts and get a small canister of micronutrient. Iron, boron, chlorine, manganese, copper, zinc, and molybdenum. Try using a nutrient mixture that we have already mentioned before in the indoor feeding section. If this doesn't solve your problem, then maybe you have one of the following:
 

BlowinWeeD

Member
PURPLE STEMS AT THE TOP OF MY PLANT. IS THIS NORMAL?

i recently noticed that the top few stems of my one plant look purple. the plant looks healthy and is in a 2 gallon bucket with a mixed soil. i use bat guano as a fertilizer and i use SUPERthrive for my vitamins. i give it 250 watts of light for 24 from my high pressured sodium light at 10 inches away. i have a small fan that i put on at times. i also have a t5, and 2 60 watt bulbs lighting all around it with foil around the area. it looks really healthy and is growing the nodes or stipules, whichever. this is my first plant. it's only 7 inches because i started growing it before i read all about what i need to get as it is on its 6th week. let me know if this is healthy and if i'm on a good pace to begin flowering in 2 weeks. also, should i begin flowering now since the nodes/stipules are showing or am i good to wait another 2 weeks?View attachment 2395305View attachment 2395306 Thanks for the help.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
This could also be light burn (bleaching) Where are these leaves in relation to your light. And you did not mention light. That can play a role

I would go with NPK: 3-1-2 in veg and 3-1-(3-5) in flower

Check out www.Hydro-Research.com They have an exceptional ONE step dry nute formula available for hard or soft water. Many of us are lovin it. I think there are 2 threads on riu
 
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