Nutrient life expectancy and other ???

I grow autos and have several questions, well it seems the longer I grow the more questions I have.
I have used an ebb and flo with coco coir. Ebb and flo with sterile potting mix and coco coir. the problem was, I wasn't getting the flavors from my cannabis that I received when I grew with organic soils and chemical bloom boosters. I am on a tight lbudget and trying to figure out the biggest bang for my buck. I do have to say that I have come along way since my first grow.
I struggle with canopy heat or leaf surface heat because I don't have refrigerated air. My grows are time with the outside temperature, needless to say my grows take place from late fall through early spring. My room is 10 feet x 15 feet. I have one oscillating fan, 1 small stationary fan and a 36" stationary fan. Surface soil temp is between 72-89 degrees Fahrenheit , my internal soil temp ranges from 68 - 78 degrees. My closest new growth is around 95-100 degrees. I don't have burn spots and my ladies do well. I am just looking for a more efficient way to water my plants with a feeding schedule that optimizes their genetics. I am on my 5th grow. I grow autoberry, think different and a autoberry x lemon haze auto that I created. All are feminized that I have propagated through colloidal silver stressing. I use RO water because I am on a well and the well water is extremely akaline.

Without fancy filtration systems, is there a way to remove the minerals that make my well water alkaline aside from a cistern.

In a ebb and flo 30 gallon reservoir with air stones , how long does organic nutrients stay alive and beneficial.?

is it feasible to use an ebb and flo system to feed an organic soil in fabric pots with amendments such as North Atlantic kelp, bone char and silica?

Does anyone have an organic veg/bloom nutrient recipes for an ebb and flow system that would work for organic soil.

Thank you all for your interest, input and time to respond . Be safe and be blessed.

Rubber down, chrome up and God first!!!

In a ebb and flo 30 gallon reservoir with air stones , how long does organic nutrients stay alive and beneficial.?
Your nutrient when made up will last around 10 to 14 days. If you work out how much your plants are drinking then you can work out how much nutrient you should make up as well as how long you want it too last for. I usually would do enough to last for a week because once a week i flush my plants and then do it all again. Atleast you are kleansing your plant as well as giving your plant fresh nutrients to get all the vitamins they need

Cyco Nigel said:

In a ebb and flo 30 gallon reservoir with air stones , how long does organic nutrients stay alive and beneficial.?
Your nutrient when made up will last around 10 to 14 days. If you work out how much your plants are drinking then you can work out how much nutrient you should make up as well as how long you want it too last for. I usually would do enough to last for a week because once a week i flush my plants and then do it all again. Atleast you are kleansing your plant as well as giving your plant fresh nutrients to get all the vitamins they need

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The last 4 weeks in my ebb and flo 8 autos go through 5-6 gallons of nutrient solution a day. Being on a budget I used chemical nutrients ( I haven't found any affordable organic concentrates) .I would add fresh water every other day. On the 6th day or 3rd refill I would add full strength nutrients and let it go 4 days , which is day 10. I would drain nutrient solution , then add 20 gallons of fresh water and let run 24 hrs, drain and refill with a fresh full strength nutrient solution. I would brew a Heisenberg Tea about every 3 weeks hoping to create a micro herd. Was curious if chemical mutes killed the micro herd? Does this schedule sound good or should I alter it.?

Im pretty sure that chemical nutes will kill the micro herd.
With your schedule just stick to it and you should be fine.

I'm in a similar situation. I use coco and the most affordable nutes, GH dry nutrients. Affordable and they keep longer on the shelf too, which is nice for us small time guys that don't use a whole lot of this stuff at once or grow seasonally.

What you want to prevent stress at high temps is Silica. I use the GH brand and it works well. But, you'll do even better if you can get some more ventilation somehow.

I also have alkaline (and quite hard) water here and I just use the dry GH ph down to adjust after adding nutrients. When I was a newbie I let everyone scare me into thinking I needed RO water, but it turned out to be hooey in my case. I'd get a water report though. We luckily don't have anything too nasty in our water here.

Seeing as how hyrdoponic nutrient companies have stuff like hydro-guard in their lineup, which is helpful bacteria, I don't see how nutrients could kill anything. In fact, judging by some past cloning disasters, bacteria seem to thrive on it.

Oh yeah, the most efficient way to water hydroponics in my experience is passive hydro. They drink exactly what they want, when they want and how fast they want it.

Can I second the request for inexpensive organic coco recipes? I'd love to be able to affordably mix up the coco mix and then only have to add water for two months. That would be sweet.

I tried an over the counter coco mix for my moms and it didn't last more than a month and a half. Had to start adding organic vegetable stakes. Is it even possible for an organic coco mix to keep providing nutes for two months?

Ta-dah said:

Can I second the request for inexpensive organic coco recipes? I'd love to be able to affordably mix up the coco mix and then only have to add water for two months. That would be sweet.

I tried an over the counter coco mix for my moms and it didn't last more than a month and a half. Had to start adding organic vegetable stakes. Is it even possible for an organic coco mix to keep providing nutes for two months?

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It's possible.

10% perlite
20% vermiculite
30% Coco
20% worm castings
10% compost
10% composted cow manure

1/4 cup of lime per cubic foot

If you got a budget left still...

1/4 cup kelp meal
1/4 cup of blood meal
1/4 cup of bone meal
All per cubic foot...

If you've got more money instead of those get...
Neem seed meal or neem cake
Fish meal
Crab shell meal
Kelp meal

Rasta Roy said:

It's possible.

10% perlite
20% vermiculite
30% Coco
20% worm castings
10% compost
10% composted cow manure

1/4 cup of lime per cubic foot

If you got a budget left still...

1/4 cup kelp meal
1/4 cup of blood meal
1/4 cup of bone meal
All per cubic foot...

If you've got more money instead of those get...
Neem seed meal or neem cake
Fish meal
Crab shell meal
Kelp meal

Click to expand...

How long does this recipe have to cook. Since coco coir handles water differently, do you water it less or more to start the cooking process.?

Thaddeus Thundabuds said:

How long does this recipe have to cook. Since coco coir handles water differently, do you water it less or more to start the cooking process.?

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Are you making a cake or something my man? What are we cooking for?

That mix is full of readily available plant nutrients via multiple forms of compost.

Everything else will break down and be available for the plant later in it's life. Plant clones or transplants directly into it. Leave out the blood and bone meal of you're starting seeds. Transplant it into the amended mix when it's larger.

Rasta Roy said:

Are you making a cake or something my man? What are we cooking for?

That mix is full of readily available plant nutrients via multiple forms of compost.

Everything else will break down and be available for the plant later in it's life. Plant clones or transplants directly into it. Leave out the blood and bone meal of you're starting seeds. Transplant it into the amended mix when it's larger.

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Lol..... everything I have ever heard about making your own soils, you have to let it cook/activate for up to 6 weeks to let the micro herd get well established and it helps to start breaking down the solids with the added meals and etc. and yes I am making a cannabis brownie cake today.... lol

Thaddeus Thundabuds said:

Lol..... everything I have ever heard about making your own soils, you have to let it cook/activate for up to 6 weeks to let the micro herd get well established and it helps to start breaking down the solids with the added meals and etc. and yes I am making a cannabis brownie cake today.... lol

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Its not so much about getting the microherd established (although that has its role)...its about composting the amendments so that they are in plant uptakeable form. If you build your soil with composts that are already full of plant available nutes, and meals that are slow release but rapidly available. There's no need to compost your soil ahead of time. Although I will grant you that soil does benefit from a good aging, its not necessary if you build it right.

Rasta Roy said:

It's possible.

10% perlite
20% vermiculite
30% Coco
20% worm castings
10% compost
10% composted cow manure

1/4 cup of lime per cubic foot

If you got a budget left still...

1/4 cup kelp meal
1/4 cup of blood meal
1/4 cup of bone meal
All per cubic foot...

If you've got more money instead of those get...
Neem seed meal or neem cake
Fish meal
Crab shell meal
Kelp meal

Click to expand...

Sorry it took me an extra week to realize the awesomeness of your reply. Thank you. I'm grateful to have it broken down this way. Thank you. Awesome. This really clears up the mess in my mind. There are so many possible ingredients, I thought I'd have to study each ingredient to solve the puzzle. And, who has time for that? Horticulturists maybe, ha. I'm saving this.

Ta-dah said:

Sorry it took me an extra week to realize the awesomeness of your reply. Thank you. I'm grateful to have it broken down this way. Thank you. Awesome. This really clears up the mess in my mind. There are so many possible ingredients, I thought I'd have to study each ingredient to solve the puzzle. And, who has time for that? Horticulturists maybe, ha. I'm saving this.

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I hear ya man it can be a lot to take in! That's why they pay me the big bucks lol. Holler at me if you have any more questions