Nutrient PPMs with low mineral well water

Hello,

I have pretty good water coming out of our well. It is close to neutral(around 7-7.1) mid level alkalinity, and low calcium content(@ 50 PPM). I have checked PH and alk with a meter, but my calcium results are based on a strip test. When i check my water it generally comes up about 70-75PPM.

I am trying to further understand PPM in regard to nutrient levels so I can dial in what my plants might need. I know a lot of folks, especially in the hydro world, use RO to get to a zero point. I am growing in soil, and because of this, and the general quality of my water, a RO seems like overkill for my small grow.

I don't need a ton of nutrient with my soil, but would like to experiment a bit with pushing some plants to see how they respond. Would you just use my baseline and go up to whatever nute levels I am trying to get to by reading my PPm meter with nutes added?

How do folks do this without RO filters?

Thanks

Austin

I've been using 80 ppm well water, it's way better than our city water at 200ppm. And the city water seemed to cause more root slime in my dwc. I also wonder about nutrients in my water. The only way to know is to get a test of the water. Here is a link to Ward Labs where I've been considering getting a test, but haven't yet. I was recommended this company on another forum:

I live in the N Ga mountains and my well water is almost identical to yours.
I grow RDWC and coco dtw running Jacks 3-2-1 and I've always used the water straight from the tap.
I also use the Jacks to fertilize my outdoor plants @ 1.6 ec with great results.
Get some basic measurement tools(ph, ec) to be able to have repeatable mixes and let your plants tell you what they need.

Thanks
I will look into getting a thorough testing.
As far as my equipment, I have a good ph tester and a ppm tester.
My question was a bit vague. I guess for those of us using no RO water, how do we judge our PPMs? If I want to pour water with nutes at 800 for example, do I take into account that I already have 70 or so off the top?

GBAUTO said:

I live in the N Ga mountains and my well water is almost identical to yours.
I grow RDWC and coco dtw running Jacks 3-2-1 and I've always used the water straight from the tap.
I also use the Jacks to fertilize my outdoor plants @ 1.6 ec with great results.
Get some basic measurement tools(ph, ec) to be able to have repeatable mixes and let your plants tell you what they need.

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Do you do anything to account for low calcium in your water?

Cheecharoni said:

I've been using 80 ppm well water, it's way better than our city water at 200ppm. And the city water seemed to cause more root slime in my dwc. I also wonder about nutrients in my water. The only way to know is to get a test of the water. Here is a link to Ward Labs where I've been considering getting a test, but haven't yet. I was recommended this company on another forum:

Water Analysis - Ward Laboratories, Inc.

www.wardlab.com

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You can also Check your city division of public health they usually do well water test for cheap. Not as thorough as wardlab but it's not bad for $4.00.

My city water is 83 PPM at 7PH. I grow in Coco and I haven't had any issues using the General Hydroponics Flora Series. The flora does change water PH so I check PH after adding my nutrients. After all is said and done, I drop down to around 6-6.2. You should be fine at 83PPM. I would say to just mix your nutes a little lighter so that your PPM is inline with whatever your nutrient manufacturer recommends. That's how I've been doing it and I've had some pretty good success.

If you want 800ppm ferts add that on top of your water ppm, water 70 = 870 water 200 = 1000. Not much in water is available to plants and you shouldn't over think it, most of what's in water is already in soil in larger amounts.

You do not supplement water calcium, probably your fertilizer is already high in calcium and magnesium already.

Most peat based soils are buffered with lime so calcium is almost always present in sufficient amounts.

That water will be good for most applications. You're actually lucky, many of us are dealing with much higher PH and alkalinity.

Green Refuge said:

You can also Check your city division of public health they usually do well water test for cheap. Not as thorough as wardlab but it's not bad for $4.00.

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We are actually not in city limits.

Thanks everyone. Yes, glad to have the good well water. Tastes good too!

BBQtoast said:

If you want 800ppm ferts add that on top of your water ppm, water 70 = 870 water 200 = 1000. Not much in water is available to plants and you shouldn't over think it, most of what's in water is already in soil in larger amounts.

You do not supplement water calcium, probably your fertilizer is already high in calcium and magnesium already.

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I was reading last night in Ed Rosenthal's book, that water like mine with low hardness has little buffering ability, making the addition of nutrients have a more dramatic effect on PH. He recommends adding Calmag to get water to a better base level of 125-150 ppm.

My soil is a mix of FFHF with perlite, worm castings, humus, and recharge. My ferts are the FF trio. As far as I'm aware, neither Grow Big or Big Bloom have any calcium in them.

Nwtexan said:

I was reading last night in Ed Rosenthal's book, that water like mine with low hardness has little buffering ability, making the addition of nutrients have a more dramatic effect on PH. He recommends adding Calmag to get water to a better base level of 125-150 ppm.

My soil is a mix of FFHF with perlite, worm castings, humus, and recharge. My ferts are the FF trio. As far as I'm aware, neither Grow Big or Big Bloom have any calcium in them.

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Soil is a buffer that will have some calcium and magnesium, your fertilizer will have both too just look at the organic ingredients, any Cal mag in water will break down in soil adding some so you really don't need any that I can see or to be trying to buffer anything.