Nutrients needed at all for vegging 25 days?

curto

Active Member
So, just wondering would nutrients be needed at all for vegging only 25 days? I'm using potting soil that says Formulation includes sphagnum peat, perlite, and humus
 

sonar

Well-Known Member
Are you sure there aren't any time released nutes in the soil? Does they bag say anything like "feeds for up to 3 months?" If so, I wouldn't feed them right away.

If the soil is pretty much inert, like promix or sunshine mix, then a light feeding a few weeks in might be a good idea. When I start seedlings in promix, I usually feed them 1/4 strength (or even a little less) with Botanicare Grow at around 2 weeks.

I've noticed most people, noobs and vets alike, say not to feed for at least 3 weeks even in something inert like promix. I disagree. In my experience, a light feeding around 14 days really helps the plants take off. At least in the case of promix + botanicare.
 

MrStickyScissors

Well-Known Member
Are you sure there aren't any time released nutes in the soil? Does they bag say anything like "feeds for up to 3 months?" If so, I wouldn't feed them right away.

If the soil is pretty much inert, like promix or sunshine mix, then a light feeding a few weeks in might be a good idea. When I start seedlings in promix, I usually feed them 1/4 strength (or even a little less) with Botanicare Grow at around 2 weeks.

I've noticed most people, noobs and vets alike, say not to feed for at least 3 weeks even in something inert like promix. I disagree. In my experience, a light feeding around 14 days really helps the plants take off. At least in the case of promix + botanicare.
if your usuing sumthing like miricle grow then I wouldnt feed for a while. that shit is garbage indoor though. drains like shit. I never feed when I first transplant. but after the second water I will hit them half strenghth
 

DinafemHashPlant

Active Member
After 3rd-4th set of leaves 10-14 days do 1/4 strength, but u can use flowering nutes all the way thru 2 not sure if thats what u where asking tho....JMO
 

Paperhouse

Active Member
I agree with HashPlant. Go very light on nutes during the entire first month, 1/4th dosage at the most. I went 1/3rd dosage on week4 and still nuteburned the hell out of one of my girls.

It also depends a lot on what strain you're growing as some are more sensitive than others, but still start low to be safe.
 

sonar

Well-Known Member
if your usuing sumthing like miricle grow then I wouldnt feed for a while. that shit is garbage indoor though. drains like shit. I never feed when I first transplant. but after the second water I will hit them half strenghth
Good point about not feeding right after a transplant.
 

curto

Active Member
couple more days ill start with nutrients, my question was really should I use VEGing Nutrients, but the answer I saw was yes.


There only 10 days old!
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Feed lightly, feed often. Try to use either totally inert soiless mix and feed from the get go, or a high quality soil that contains all nutrients (like Roots Organic) and just water for first several weeks. The problem with most soils is that they contain too much NPK and not enough secondary and micros. The plants can show a nute def (secondary or micro), but when you feed you burn them because the soil is loaded with NPK. There's no winning with cheap soils. I've always preffered totally inert because we can then control what they get, rather than guessing what's in the mix. For noobs, Sunshine #4 fed with GH 3 part is a no brainer very effective combo. Add 20% perlite to it and you can water everyday. It's a good idea to flush heavily once per week.

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/407048-20-000-watt-medical-grow.html
 

MrStickyScissors

Well-Known Member
Feed lightly, feed often. Try to use either totally inert soiless mix and feed from the get go, or a high quality soil that contains all nutrients (like Roots Organic) and just water for first several weeks. The problem with most soils is that they contain too much NPK and not enough secondary and micros. The plants can show a nute def (secondary or micro), but when you feed you burn them because the soil is loaded with NPK. There's no winning with cheap soils. I've always preffered totally inert because we can then control what they get, rather than guessing what's in the mix. For noobs, Sunshine #4 fed with GH 3 part is a no brainer very effective combo. Add 20% perlite to it and you can water everyday. It's a good idea to flush heavily once per week.

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/407048-20-000-watt-medical-grow.html[/QUOT

iv allways wanted to try that sunshine soiless mix. right now im using the roots organic with house and garden line up. great results. Dont want to fix sumthingthats not broke.but do you think there is potential to yield more with the soiless mix?
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Feed lightly, feed often. Try to use either totally inert soiless mix and feed from the get go, or a high quality soil that contains all nutrients (like Roots Organic) and just water for first several weeks. The problem with most soils is that they contain too much NPK and not enough secondary and micros. The plants can show a nute def (secondary or micro), but when you feed you burn them because the soil is loaded with NPK. There's no winning with cheap soils. I've always preffered totally inert because we can then control what they get, rather than guessing what's in the mix. For noobs, Sunshine #4 fed with GH 3 part is a no brainer very effective combo. Add 20% perlite to it and you can water everyday. It's a good idea to flush heavily once per week.

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/407048-20-000-watt-medical-grow.html[/QUOT

iv allways wanted to try that sunshine soiless mix. right now im using the roots organic with house and garden line up. great results. Dont want to fix sumthingthats not broke.but do you think there is potential to yield more with the soiless mix?
I've always gotten better yields from soiless over soil and hydro over soiless. But, as I'm sure you know, yield isn't everything. With a grow our size dependability is extremely important. I've lost whole crops from a small problem in a hydro system. For us, the perfect balance between good yield and dependability is to grow in rockwool and hand water once per day.

As to your question, I doubt Sunshine #4 would give you much better yield than your Roots Organic. I've grown in both. I think the Roots Organic is the best soil right out of the bag for organic growing. Sunshine is one of the easiest and idiot proof soiless mixes for beginners. If you want to kick it up a notch, you may want to try a coco/perlite mix. We've had good results from coco with 40% perlite in large containers. However, when we switched from that mix to rockwool croutons in 2 gallon containers, the results were fantastic. We are now testing croutons in pots vs. 4" blocks placed on top of 6" Hugo blocks. So far, the croutons look a little better than the blocks, but the blocks are SO much less labor intensive. If you do try rockwool, make sure the plants are very well rooted in the 4" block prior to placing in container or on block. Otherwise, the roots will just stay in the block and the plant will remain stunted.

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/407048-20-000-watt-medical-grow.html
 

MrStickyScissors

Well-Known Member
I've always gotten better yields from soiless over soil and hydro over soiless. But, as I'm sure you know, yield isn't everything. With a grow our size dependability is extremely important. I've lost whole crops from a small problem in a hydro system. For us, the perfect balance between good yield and dependability is to grow in rockwool and hand water once per day.

As to your question, I doubt Sunshine #4 would give you much better yield than your Roots Organic. I've grown in both. I think the Roots Organic is the best soil right out of the bag for organic growing. Sunshine is one of the easiest and idiot proof soiless mixes for beginners. If you want to kick it up a notch, you may want to try a coco/perlite mix. We've had good results from coco with 40% perlite in large containers. However, when we switched from that mix to rockwool croutons in 2 gallon containers, the results were fantastic. We are now testing croutons in pots vs. 4" blocks placed on top of 6" Hugo blocks. So far, the croutons look a little better than the blocks, but the blocks are SO much less labor intensive. If you do try rockwool, make sure the plants are very well rooted in the 4" block prior to placing in container or on block. Otherwise, the roots will just stay in the block and the plant will remain stunted.

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/407048-20-000-watt-medical-grow.html
so would a 3 gallon pot with rock wool crutons be allright for a 10 week flowering period? and would I need to water everyday? how would you judge when you need to water? would you still water when the pot feels light? Im going to try it on one light this go around.
 

MrStickyScissors

Well-Known Member
I've always gotten better yields from soiless over soil and hydro over soiless. But, as I'm sure you know, yield isn't everything. With a grow our size dependability is extremely important. I've lost whole crops from a small problem in a hydro system. For us, the perfect balance between good yield and dependability is to grow in rockwool and hand water once per day.

As to your question, I doubt Sunshine #4 would give you much better yield than your Roots Organic. I've grown in both. I think the Roots Organic is the best soil right out of the bag for organic growing. Sunshine is one of the easiest and idiot proof soiless mixes for beginners. If you want to kick it up a notch, you may want to try a coco/perlite mix. We've had good results from coco with 40% perlite in large containers. However, when we switched from that mix to rockwool croutons in 2 gallon containers, the results were fantastic. We are now testing croutons in pots vs. 4" blocks placed on top of 6" Hugo blocks. So far, the croutons look a little better than the blocks, but the blocks are SO much less labor intensive. If you do try rockwool, make sure the plants are very well rooted in the 4" block prior to placing in container or on block. Otherwise, the roots will just stay in the block and the plant will remain stunted.

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/407048-20-000-watt-medical-grow.html
I really want to try out those rock wool crutons. only problem im having with it is how could I veg them in a one gallon pot and then transplant them into a 3 or 5 gallon? I flower 7 1,000 watt hps at my house and only have a closet to veg in so i keep all my plants under 2 t5s. is there any way I could still do this and do it with the crutons and mayby a 4 inch rock wool cube?
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
A 2 gallon pot would be big enough for croutons with daily watering. Yes on the 4" blocks. We put rooted clones directly into 4" blocks. Plants are topped, then grown to about 10-12 inches tall. We then put them on a 6" block or into a 2 gallon pot with rockwool croutons for another 5 days in veg. You can, however, just keep them in the 4 inch block and transplant when you move into your bloom room. At 12" tall in a 4" block they will be very light 24hrs after watering. If they get too big for the block, the plant will wilt before 24hrs have passed. This is under a 1000 watt MH...under your T-5's they can probably be grown plenty big in veg without drying out. May I suggest you just try a few to get your system down prior to committing a large number to the new routine. We've made that mistake before and ended up with 50 poor performing plants. You also need to keep your PH at 5.5 with rockwool. It has a slightly high PH. Once you get the rockwool perfected you'll find it to be the best performing method short of aeroponics or RDWC.
 

MrStickyScissors

Well-Known Member
A 2 gallon pot would be big enough for croutons with daily watering. Yes on the 4" blocks. We put rooted clones directly into 4" blocks. Plants are topped, then grown to about 10-12 inches tall. We then put them on a 6" block or into a 2 gallon pot with rockwool croutons for another 5 days in veg. You can, however, just keep them in the 4 inch block and transplant when you move into your bloom room. At 12" tall in a 4" block they will be very light 24hrs after watering. If they get too big for the block, the plant will wilt before 24hrs have passed. This is under a 1000 watt MH...under your T-5's they can probably be grown plenty big in veg without drying out. May I suggest you just try a few to get your system down prior to committing a large number to the new routine. We've made that mistake before and ended up with 50 poor performing plants. You also need to keep your PH at 5.5 with rockwool. It has a slightly high PH. Once you get the rockwool perfected you'll find it to be the best performing method short of aeroponics or RDWC.
Alright thanks that sounds like it will be a little more work but if the yield is there then thats the way I will go. do you start out 1/2 streghth on the nutrient?
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Alright thanks that sounds like it will be a little more work but if the yield is there then thats the way I will go. do you start out 1/2 streghth on the nutrient?
Once you perfect your system for growing with rockwool you will see far better yield than with Roots Organic. That is, of course, if the medium is the weak link in your grow. Remember, the weakest link in your grow op determines the quality and quantity of your final product. For example, if a person is trying to light an 8' x 8' table with 1 - 600 watt light, changing medium or adding CO2 will have no effect...the light is the weak link.

As far as nutrient strength, I use only RO water to mix my solution with. When the rooted clones are first placed into the 4" rockwool blocks, we feed with 500 ppm. Once I see some new growth start (5 days or so), I up the ppm to 1000 for the rest of the veg cycle. Once they go into bloom, we feed at 1,300 ppm for 6 weeks. The last 2 weeks we feed straight RO water to get a really good flush and keep the quality up.
 

MrStickyScissors

Well-Known Member
Once you perfect your system for growing with rockwool you will see far better yield than with Roots Organic. That is, of course, if the medium is the weak link in your grow. Remember, the weakest link in your grow op determines the quality and quantity of your final product. For example, if a person is trying to light an 8' x 8' table with 1 - 600 watt light, changing medium or adding CO2 will have no effect...the light is the weak link.

As far as nutrient strength, I use only RO water to mix my solution with. When the rooted clones are first placed into the 4" rockwool blocks, we feed with 500 ppm. Once I see some new growth start (5 days or so), I up the ppm to 1000 for the rest of the veg cycle. Once they go into bloom, we feed at 1,300 ppm for 6 weeks. The last 2 weeks we feed straight RO water to get a really good flush and keep the quality up.
for lighting I have 7 1,000 watt hps with the xxl hoods and hortilux bulbs. each light has 7 to 10 plants under it on a ebb n flow table ontop of a regular 4x4 wood table to drain. RO water with cal mag and silica. house and garden nutrients. 3 gallon pots roots organic. im not doing bad at all this way im pulling a pound a light or sumtimes a ounce or 2 under on sum lights. but im trying to hit over a pound a light. im going to try one light and see if it shits on the other lights. that would be clean.
 
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