On the verge of giving up!!!!

jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Markshomegrown said:
cannibalises start from the bottom and work up. well my experience.
Click to expand...
And that’s the point. His is starting to go yellow from the bottom up.

so it’s cannibalising itself due to either lack of nutrition or insufficient light penetration from the 150w LED.

You use 600w (2 of them) that have 3ft of penetration power down from the light each.

If you were using a 250w HPS would you still grow the same size plants you do now? No ofcourse you wouldn’t because you wouldn’t have the penetration power.

My advice to @Greenthumbgrower1986 is as follows.

Reduce light distance to 15” and increase feeding of N.

Im not going to argue with you @Markshomegrown ive seen some of your finished plants and I don’t fancy trying to argue with someone who thinks 800g harvests from 1200w of HPS and harvested early is ok.
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
So where are my buffer zones then?

Any plant that cannibalises itself to sustain other growth areas is either getting insufficient light, or insufficient nutrition.

it’s not that hard to understand.

With artificial lighting and plant training there shouldn’t be any “buffer” zones.
Click to expand...
Also I did start getting tip burn and slight clawing just before flower, so I assumed nitro toxicity, not sure if that is helpful
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
And that’s the point. His is starting to go yellow from the bottom up.

so it’s cannibalising itself due to either lack of nutrition or insufficient light penetration from the 150w LED.

You use 600w (2 of them) that have 3ft of penetration power down from the light each.

If you were using a 250w HPS would you still grow the same size plants you do now? No ofcourse you wouldn’t because you wouldn’t have the penetration power.

My advice to @Greenthumbgrower1986 is as follows.

Reduce light distance to 15” and increase feeding of N.

Im not going to argue with you @Markshomegrown ive seen some of your finished plants and I don’t fancy trying to argue with someone who thinks 800g harvests from 1200w of HPS and harvested early is ok.
Click to expand...
Right I've lowered light to 15 inches to canopy, I have some bio bizz fish mix which I'll add to next watering
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
Also I did start getting tip burn and slight clawing just before flower, so I assumed nitro toxicity, not sure if that is helpful
Click to expand...
Then just reduce light distance if you think there should be enough N in there.

If it continues to persist then there would be something else a miss but the plant should NOT use BUFFER zones unless it’s trying to correct a problem such as not enough feed or light.
 
D

Driver733

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
Then just reduce light distance if you think there should be enough N in there.

If it continues to persist then there would be something else a miss but the plant should NOT use BUFFER zones unless it’s trying to correct a problem such as not enough feed or light.
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Not to nitpick, but it could be something else contributing to the problem, such as pests like fungus gnats. I just grew thru an infestation and nothing I did with nutrients fixed the damage done by the gnats. Despite the gnats, the finished product is fantastic, although the plants looked terrible in flower.

I say this because without the yellow sticky traps I would never know I had a gnat problem. I think I had a gnat problem in the past, but without the traps I didn't know and blamed the yellow leaves on a lack of nutrients because of my ignorance.

I'm not saying the OP has gnats, just that it could be something else.

Here you can see the yellow leaves which eventually burned up, I still can't believe they finished well:

100_2658.jpg
 
M

Markshomegrown

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
And that’s the point. His is starting to go yellow from the bottom up.

so it’s cannibalising itself due to either lack of nutrition or insufficient light penetration from the 150w LED.

You use 600w (2 of them) that have 3ft of penetration power down from the light each.

If you were using a 250w HPS would you still grow the same size plants you do now? No ofcourse you wouldn’t because you wouldn’t have the penetration power.

My advice to @Greenthumbgrower1986 is as follows.

Reduce light distance to 15” and increase feeding of N.

Im not going to argue with you @Markshomegrown ive seen some of your finished plants and I don’t fancy trying to argue with someone who thinks 800g harvests from 1200w of HPS and harvested early is ok.
Click to expand...
Have you ever took a lux reading under a thick canopy, guessing not.
Most Growers are not honest about there crop size, you can make up any number you want.
I will site back and watch, good luck to the OP, your going to need it.
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
And FYI this is one of marks plants ready for harvest.

At around? Day 55 or something.

This is his response about upper yellowing leaves.

When in real botany leaves with issues at the tops of the plant have an IMMOBILE NUTRIENT ISSUE


Markshomegrown said:
The very top set of fan leaves are starting to become yellow, the set fan leaves directly below these are green, they are still feeding the lower set of nodes /bud sites.
As the buds ripen working from the top down, the fan leaves will start to die off(unless your leaves pumped with too much food and has to store it), if the plants low on Nitrogen the leaves at the bottom will turn yellow first(these leaves are still green).

Starting from the top I will remove the leaves as they turn yellow and the light will get deeper in the canopy and ripen up the lower buds sites.
if the buds are not ready in 9 days, I will keep them going but I have flowered off this plant(phoneo) a few times (taking cutting last week in veg).
Click to expand...
1A61CDE4-C7C0-4A2F-B784-376449DD6740.jpeg




very true Gnats can play havoc with plants if not dealt with.

however your pics appear to displaying a lack of Mg uptake. Not saying as to why. Could be gnats could be lockout, could be over feeding etc.

I’ve grown with Gnats before, good wet and dry cycles and sticky traps or you can get rid of them with BTi etc.


Driver733 said:
Not to nitpick, but it could be something else contributing to the problem, such as pests like fungus gnats. I just grew thru an infestation and nothing I did with nutrients fixed the damage done by the gnats. Despite the gnats, the finished product is fantastic, although the plants looked terrible in flower.

I say this because without the yellow sticky traps I would never know I had a gnat problem. I think I had a gnat problem in the past, but without the traps I didn't know and blamed the yellow leaves on a lack of nutrients because of my ignorance.

I'm not saying the OP has gnats, just that it could be something else.

Here you can see the yellow leaves which eventually burned up, I still can't believe they finished well:

View attachment 5068191
Click to expand...
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Markshomegrown said:
Have you ever took a lux reading under a thick canopy, guessing not.
Most Growers are not honest about there crop size, you can make up any number you want.
I will site back and watch, good luck to the OP, your going to need it.
Click to expand...
I haven’t mentioned his canopy I’ve mentioned the penetration power of his LED.

He’s using 2x150w LED’s.

personally I wouldn’t grow a plant over 1.5ft tall and if I did I would expect anything lower down to not have enough light.
 
M

Markshomegrown

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
And FYI this is one of marks plants ready for harvest.

At around? Day 55 or something.

This is his response about upper yellowing leaves.

When in real botany leaves with issues at the tops of the plant have an IMMOBILE NUTRIENT ISSUE



View attachment 5068193




very true Gnats can play havoc with plants if not dealt with.

however your pics appear to displaying a lack of Mg uptake. Not saying as to why. Could be gnats could be lockout, could be over feeding etc.

I’ve grown with Gnats before, good wet and dry cycles and sticky traps or you can get rid of them with BTi etc.
Click to expand...
My first grow in my new flower room, the environment was not right (high temps )and the hps bleached the leaves, but now I have things dialed in.
 
ComputerSaysNo

ComputerSaysNo

Well-Known Member
The pots are big enough, the plant needs more nitrogen.

In your next grow, switch from soil to coco and use a hydroponics fertilizer (made for coco or not, does not matter much). It's easier to control, and watering is easier too with coco.

Definitely too early to "give up growing" entirely. Soil + organics fert is more difficult to dial in than an inert medium (e.g. coco) and hydro fert.
 
D

Driver733

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
And FYI this is one of marks plants ready for harvest.

At around? Day 55 or something.

This is his response about upper yellowing leaves.

When in real botany leaves with issues at the tops of the plant have an IMMOBILE NUTRIENT ISSUE



View attachment 5068193




very true Gnats can play havoc with plants if not dealt with.

however your pics appear to displaying a lack of Mg uptake. Not saying as to why. Could be gnats could be lockout, could be over feeding etc.

I’ve grown with Gnats before, good wet and dry cycles and sticky traps or you can get rid of them with BTi etc.
Click to expand...
Lack of Mg? That is possible, although I always use Cal-Mag. I don't know, I should have the gnats eliminated for the next round, I'll see if I get the same issue again. I changed to GH Flora Nova fertilizer, we'll see how it goes. Thank you!
 
M

Markshomegrown

Well-Known Member
jondamon said:
I haven’t mentioned his canopy I’ve mentioned the penetration power of his LED.

He’s using 2x150w LED’s.

personally I wouldn’t grow a plant over 1.5ft tall and if I did I would expect anything lower down to not have enough light.
Click to expand...
Your total off with one, you have one small plant, over bushy plant in a 2ft x 2ft, are you for real. You still have a lot to learn, good luck
 
jondamon

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Markshomegrown said:
Your total off with one, you have one small plant, over bushy plant in a 2ft x 2ft, are you for real. You still have a lot to learn, good luck
Click to expand...
I have 1 plant in a 3ft x 2.5ft scrog because I only had 1 seed pop out of 2 planted last time.

Ok mate come back and show him your finished plants then now that you’re “dialed” in lol.
 
Sunbiz1

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
They do finish, to an ok standard. I.e smokes and gets you medicated, but I've noticed as this yellowing begins the terpenes start to disappear.
Click to expand...
I use fabric pots, and have transplanted up to 4 weeks in flower.
What are your temps/humidities in flower room?.
Am asking due to your smell(terpines)disappearing, heat will literally evaporate your oils.
I've been using nothing but Sunshine grow medium, and Epsoma plant tone for a decade; and the only time my plants look like yours is during summer months...when I'm fighting heat and running a dehumidifier.
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Sunbiz1 said:
I use fabric pots, and have transplanted up to 4 weeks in flower.
What are your temps/humidities in flower room?.
Am asking due to your smell(terpines)disappearing, heat will literally evaporate your oils.
I've been using nothing but Sunshine grow medium, and Epsoma plant tone for a decade; and the only time my plants look like yours is during summer months...when I'm fighting heat and running a dehumidifier.
Click to expand...
Temps at canopy are 24/26°c 45%rh lights on and 20/21°c 50/55% Rh lights out
 
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