Greenthumbgrower1986
Well-Known Member
I did try that on previous grows and leaves started drooping 5 mins after watering so I assumed it was over watered
On the verge of giving up!!!!
- Thread starter Greenthumbgrower1986
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Nutty sKunK
Well-Known Member
Its all about weight not a set date. It just works out for me that it’s every 2 days when they are early flower.
Mine droop all the time until they are fully established. They’ll usually perk back up after the night cycle.
Overwatering is always having continuously droopy puffy leaves with a heavy wet pot.
Sunbiz1
Well-Known Member
It is, when you grow organically indoors; have noticed zero difference between a week or 3 months jarred.
And neither do customers.
Outdoor is a different story.
To All:
These threads get fucked up b/c everyone thinks their way is the right way.
News flash, no matter how long you've cultivated; we are all still learning.
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Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
plants will grow continously new roots as long as the upper parts are also growing. root cells actually can get "old", and then, they loose the ability to take up water. how long that takes is dependant on some factors but basic plant science literature states 4 weeks.
about that flushing study:
so it proofs there's almost no effect between fertilizing or giving strait water, then why waste money on nutes when these don't make it inside the plant?
about that flushing study:
so it proofs there's almost no effect between fertilizing or giving strait water, then why waste money on nutes when these don't make it inside the plant?
ComputerSaysNo
Well-Known Member
The study does not say that the nutrients do not make it inside the plant.
It says that there is practically no difference in a few important categories (subjective taste, mineral content, yield) depending on flushing regime.
In the video interview that I've linked above, the person who led the study even explicitely acknowledged that you can take the results either way, and save nutrients by stopping the feed 14 days before harvest. (NB the company that did the study sells nutrients.)
As far as I am concerned, I will not starve my plants unnecessarily, at no point during the grow. This makes no sense to me at all -- and that includes starving the plant of nitrogen during flowering, not doing that either.
Nutrients are not expensive enough that it would be worth going to any trouble to save two weeks worth of fertilizer.
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
Some are just incapable of learning and give bs advice
Sound familiar?
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
The leaves should not drop after watering, your watering too soon, when the plants are ready for a drink, you can't over water them, you may need to remove some water from the tray as you don't want them siting in a litre of water.
Just before potting up I drop my plant in a bucket of water, totally submerged for a good 5 minutes and pot the plants up into dry soil, the dry soil pulls most the water from the saturated soil and the roots carry on growing, reduces the shock to the root mass. 3-4 days later you water the plants as normal.
It sounds like he's trying to stay mostly organic, I know most of biobizz is water soluble but if he depends on his microbes and gets too much of a drybacl he would absolutely get a yellowing or other deficiency showing up. I recently had covid and my plants in "living soil" with only dry amendments and innoculants had a couple of really bad drybacks because I felt like shit. It went so far that I was getting pink leaves and necrosis because my soil shut down and nothing was available, in organics consistent moisture is key imo.
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
Thank you, your right
Gave that advice, nobody want to hear, so I left, this article says it all and there the link
Larger pots are harder to underwater so it's an easy fix, but that's upto the OP
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
I’m sorry
where did you. “ gave that advice , nobody want to hear?
you seem Uber sensitive
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
Tried for the first two pages and I felt I was going around in circles, wasn't even the OP asking the questions, didn't see the point of carrying on, so many members need to prove a point so I let them take over and try and help someone else.
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
:
I like the point where you said you could transplant up to the third week of flower, "they'll love it".
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
Should of said 3rd week flower(12/12)
Just as the buds are starting to grow, the extra soil is not for extra root mass, its a buffer zone, so the OP is less likely to underwater the plants causing further damage, also the roots have more food without raising the ec
ComputerSaysNo
Well-Known Member
I still don't get how hydro is supposed to be harder than "organic".
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
That is a long ways from your initial suggestion
I guess it could help in that respect but too much soil wasted for my needs
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
I reuse 70% of my soil and I use the basic compost from my local garden center, worse thing it carrying it, good compost is very cheap.
I would double the pot size if I could pull 10g's more from my crop.
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
I like the point where you call people novices on the first page. We've seen your deficient early harvested flowers.
Monsterfarms
Member
I think you have to small of pot for the size of your plants. I could be wrong but it wouldn’t hurt to try again with bigger pots. Don’t give up!
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Try growing hydro without a ph or ec meter.
