One question please guys - related to rockwool
- Thread starter rizou
- Start date
choempi
Well-Known Member
how long in the cube before you fed, maybe it is lack instead of burn, splain your grow more bro...
rizou
Member
It's my first grow ever and the seeds are white widow. I germinated them in paper towel then transferred them to jiffy. Now I think I plugged the jiffy into the rockwool cube too early (as soon as I saw a single root poking through the bottom of the jiffy). I didn't feed them any nutes until 2 weeks after germinating. By then, one of them had droopy leaves (probably from overwatering since I didn't know overwatering means watering too often instead of too much ) and the older leaves were starting to yellow. I read up alot on the net and read that yellowing leaves starting from the tip means nitrogen deficiency so I started feeding them. I've been feeding them for about 4 times now with chemical nutes called budrite A + B at 1/2 strength. For the past 2 feed though, I've put more A solution than B because A has higher nitrogen content in it. Do you reckon I'm feeding them too much? I don't have EC meter yet unfortunately.
Some leaves also curl up or down alil strangely though I can't find any problems that would look like that on the net. One more question, I have noticed that when I PH the nutrient solution to around 6 (I can't say exact cuz I'm using the drops) and leave it in the container overnight, the next day the PH of the solution would increase by about 0.5 or so. Is that normal? The first few waterings I didn't check the water again after the first time PH'ing them so there might be possibility that there were nute lockout then but I'm not sure at all.
Some leaves also curl up or down alil strangely though I can't find any problems that would look like that on the net. One more question, I have noticed that when I PH the nutrient solution to around 6 (I can't say exact cuz I'm using the drops) and leave it in the container overnight, the next day the PH of the solution would increase by about 0.5 or so. Is that normal? The first few waterings I didn't check the water again after the first time PH'ing them so there might be possibility that there were nute lockout then but I'm not sure at all.
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
the spots are rust disease. ph to 5.5 for wools, no need for ppm pen just the ph. try n get a real pen to be accurate.
leaves that curl down are to wet and saturated. ones that curl up are to dry/hot and try to retain the moisture in the leaves or slow the transpriration from them. if its just the tips of the serated edges curling up then its more humidity
use equal amounts of that "A" and "B" or the foods wont be in a good ballkance and blocks other ellements. and yes water`s pH rises as it sits out
leaves that curl down are to wet and saturated. ones that curl up are to dry/hot and try to retain the moisture in the leaves or slow the transpriration from them. if its just the tips of the serated edges curling up then its more humidity
use equal amounts of that "A" and "B" or the foods wont be in a good ballkance and blocks other ellements. and yes water`s pH rises as it sits out
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
its a fungi but is mainly caused by an unhealthy plant, can be treated with Safers Deffender or Calcium has repaired it for me here as well in the past, but was part of my deff issue that brought on the disease. any form of pathogen or disease is caused by an unhealthy plant, same with bug attacks. a healthy plant will deffend itself better than we can to fight these off
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
if it was my grow id set up new water and food and set to 5.5 pH. would like the ppm at about 500 and feed em. may want to feed a bit more than usual to bring the pH back to what it is suposed to be in the wool, then sit back n leave it. if you have cal use it at about 5ml per gal and see if that clears up the rust. give it a few days to do its thing. once the food is back at right level the rust should go away, if not use deffender and foliar it. but wait about a week before.
calcium rebuidls cell walls and is usualy what happnes when they get sik
calcium rebuidls cell walls and is usualy what happnes when they get sik
=ian=
Well-Known Member
when i started with Rockwool, i had the same issues as you did; i.e. it took forever for the roots to shoot through the 2nd cube i was using (i went from 1.5" rockwool to 3" rockwool, no jiffy planter).
on my 2nd time around with clones i added some root shooter to the mix, from the local hydro store, and it seemed to help them out a wee bit.
THEN i read that rockwool has an insanely high pH out of the bag, and isn't good for growing at all, unless you adjust the pH prior to planting. so i started to soak them overnight before i made my clones, in a bucket of pH adjusted water (i set it at 5.5 ph). This was the best thing i ever did, as i found out that the plants cannot utilize the nutrients i was giving them unless they are at a lower pH (6.0 seems about average here). once i began to pre-condition my rockwool cubes, the roots started shooting out in a little under a week from transplanting.
all in all bro, i would say go snag a cheap-o TDS meter, i got one for 2.99 on ebay (cost more to ship the damn thing than to buy it... lol!) and make sure that you aren't overfeeding them as well. clones do not need as much nutrients in the cloner machine as they do when they go into veg state, i keep my nutes in the cloner at less than 20% of my veg reservoir.
keep in mind though, i'm a newbie to all this as well, and i'm sure that the guys above can help ya out. this is just what worked for me bro.
good luck with the grow dude, and keep it sticky!
on my 2nd time around with clones i added some root shooter to the mix, from the local hydro store, and it seemed to help them out a wee bit.
THEN i read that rockwool has an insanely high pH out of the bag, and isn't good for growing at all, unless you adjust the pH prior to planting. so i started to soak them overnight before i made my clones, in a bucket of pH adjusted water (i set it at 5.5 ph). This was the best thing i ever did, as i found out that the plants cannot utilize the nutrients i was giving them unless they are at a lower pH (6.0 seems about average here). once i began to pre-condition my rockwool cubes, the roots started shooting out in a little under a week from transplanting.
all in all bro, i would say go snag a cheap-o TDS meter, i got one for 2.99 on ebay (cost more to ship the damn thing than to buy it... lol!) and make sure that you aren't overfeeding them as well. clones do not need as much nutrients in the cloner machine as they do when they go into veg state, i keep my nutes in the cloner at less than 20% of my veg reservoir.
keep in mind though, i'm a newbie to all this as well, and i'm sure that the guys above can help ya out. this is just what worked for me bro.
good luck with the grow dude, and keep it sticky!
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
yes always always pre set the wools. as said they cant eat at the high pH they come as new. i also use food in mine to pre sock. i set that to about 150ppm. and 5.5 pH. i use green planet nutes and use the a and b veg at about 3 to 5ml per gal and i add some Aussie tonic at about 3ml per gal. its same as superthrive but better, helps them root fatser. and the slow rooting in the large wools is more liekly just cause you had minimal roots showing as you said whern you transplanted them. they may have dampened off.
rizou
Member
thx so much for the advice guys, really appreciate it. Will try what medi 1 suggested and grab a cal-mag solution tomorrow. Might as well invest in a hanna meter or something too hehe. Just another question though, If i grab a digital ph meter, will any calibration solution do or does it have to be brand specific?
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
no any solution will do. or even funds are tight use vinigar to check it. white vinigar is set to 2.4.
i have a high end Blue Labs meter here and they insist i have to buy their solution and its bull shit sales tactics...acid is acid. i do recomend using both the ph7 and ph4 to calabrate it. but again if funds are tight just 7 till you can afford the 4.
i have a high end Blue Labs meter here and they insist i have to buy their solution and its bull shit sales tactics...acid is acid. i do recomend using both the ph7 and ph4 to calabrate it. but again if funds are tight just 7 till you can afford the 4.
drgreentm
Well-Known Member
when germinating in wools you shouldnt water as often i would let the wool almost completely dry out before a good feeding. if your rockwool is always wet it wont promote the roots to grow out of the cube to search for water seeings how they are very comfortable in the wet wool environment. other than that new growth at the top looks pretty viperous. she is a pretty little widow lol.
